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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega tops Rolex, JLC collectibles and another release from Grand Seiko Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Another week another weekly Jan 27, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega tops Rolex, JLC collectibles and another release from Grand Seiko

Another week, another weekly round up. If the brands keep bringing it, I will keep summing up the highlights. Here we go! Omega oust Rolex with brand new technology that promises 0/+2 second accuracy a day New Spirate™ System debuts new hairspring with ultra-fine 0/+2 regulation capability The system debuts in new Speedmaster Super Racing watch Its … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega tops Rolex, JLC collectibles and another release from Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle is a luxurious remix of an ’80s classic Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle Jan 26, 2023

The Chopard Alpine Eagle is a luxurious remix of an ’80s classic

Integrated-bracelet luxury sports watches aren’t going anywhere, and more high-end manufacturers are getting into the game. Or getting back into it, as is the case with Chopard. Their modern-day classic, the Chopard Alpine Eagle, launched in 2019, has proven to be their biggest hit in recent memory, and it’s easy to see why. Based on their … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle is a luxurious remix of an ’80s classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Agenhor, and the many movements of the Genevan complication masters (Part 2) Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Jan 23, 2023

Agenhor, and the many movements of the Genevan complication masters (Part 2)

Movement masters Agenhor have had their fingers in so many pies that one article can’t cover all of their unique takes on complications. We’ve already looked at their involvement with the likes of Arnold & Son and Harry Winston, and today explore their involvement with Fabergé, Hermès, MB&F;, Parmigiani Fleurier and Van Cleef & Arpels. … ContinuedThe post Agenhor, and the many movements of the Genevan complication masters (Part 2) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Farer Goes Medium with the New 36mm Three Hand Collection Worn & Wound
Farer Goes Medium Jan 23, 2023

Farer Goes Medium with the New 36mm Three Hand Collection

It’s far too early in the year to call anything that’s happened so far in the watch world a “trend,” at least by any traditional dictionary definition of the word. In these early weeks of January, it’s just as likely that any example we might point to of releases that feel similar in some way or follow a pattern are merely coincidences. Still, our collective radar goes up when we see new watches begin to follow a certain format, and between a surprising release at last week’s LVMH watch week, a pleasantly diminutive GMT, and this new collection from Farer, we get the sense that it’s worth paying attention to smaller watches making their way onto the scene.  The new 36mm Three Hand collection is a small selection of four watches that take familiar Farer design tropes and shrink them down into a case that sits squarely in “medium” territory. It’s an interesting move for Farer, as they’ve always made watches that are well proportioned, not overly large, and could fairly be described as unisex. Recent releases like an updated Stanhope and the AquaMatic collection have certainly reinforced this idea. But the new Three Hand collection seen here takes the idea to another level, and underscores the midcentury design inspiration that has always been at the heart of Farer’s watches.  As is typical of Farer, they’ve launched the new Three Hand collection with four watches that showcase the wide range of colors the brand is skilled at working with. The Reso...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Artel Rotec Sky Series combines ’70s bravado with Art Deco chic Time+Tide
Jan 23, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Artel Rotec Sky Series combines ’70s bravado with Art Deco chic

In our review of Artel Rotec’s previous V watch, Borna touched on how the high-tech exotic sports watch wasn’t a niche that every collector was comfortable with. That may be true, but when it comes to watches there will be an adoring audience for almost anything you can think of. Artel Rotec’s first futuristic release … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Artel Rotec Sky Series combines ’70s bravado with Art Deco chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price Time+Tide
Jan 16, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price

Le Jour aren’t what you would typically consider a microbrand. They weren’t funded through a Kickstarter campaign, nor were they founded by a young visionary who wanted to shake up the watch industry. In fact, if the Le Jour brand name is familiar to you, it may be because they were quite a popular brand … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jan 16, 2023

Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater

Founded by a duo who trained as jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in transforming old pocket watch movements and installing them in custom-made wristwatches. Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry recently completed its third minute-repeating wristwatch, the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater. The Royal Symphony is powered by a movement from a 1910 pocket watch made by Haas Neveux & Cie., a Geneva-based watch brand known for its high-quality movements that active from the mid-19th century to the 1920s. In typical Molnar Fabry style, the movement was entirely reworked, not only to restore its mechanical function, but also entirely decorated to a high level that includes engraving on the bridges. Initial thoughts Each watch made by Molnar Fabry is unique and mostly made according to the client’s specifications since most are made to order. As a result, the brand’s house style covers a diverse aesthetic – it is certainly not for everyone – but the quality of work is always impressive. Being jewellers, the brand’s founders apply the same artisanal, manual techniques used in producing jewellery to their watches. Even in photos the artisanal nature of the work is apparent, ranging from the movement decoration to the hand engraving on the case back. However, Molnar Fabry’s work on the movement is primarily decorative rather than mechanical. As a result, the Haas Neveux calibre still has a balance staff without shock protection. That’s like a non-issue in a watch like the Roy...

Prince Harry may be a divisive figure, but he does own one hell of a Rolex… Time+Tide
Rolex Jan 14, 2023

Prince Harry may be a divisive figure, but he does own one hell of a Rolex…

In the wake of his new biography, Spare, we now know far too much about Prince Harry. We know, for example, that Harry had a frostbitten “todger” during his brother’s wedding to Kate Middleton. We know that Harry killed 25 Taliban fighters in Afghanistan. We know that he lost his virginity in a field outside … ContinuedThe post Prince Harry may be a divisive figure, but he does own one hell of a Rolex… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary” Jan 12, 2023

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary”

Jack Heuer introduced the Carrera in 1963 as a chronograph for race-car drivers. No frills yet stylish design, the Carrera was perfect blend of form and function. Sixty years on TAG Heuer is celebrating its signature chronograph with a faithful revival, the Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary”, the first in a series of commemorative models that will be launched over the year – but it will be the only vintage remake amongst the commemorative editions. Presented in the modern-day Carrera case of 39 mm, it is a near-identical replica of the classic Carrera ref. 2447 SN with its distinctive “panda” dial. While it incorporates the key elements of the original, the brand has updated the watch with its in-house automatic movement and of course scaled up the design to match. Initial thoughts I was struck by its understated styling of the Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary”. It’s a remake that doesn’t try to do too much but performs well. The original was clearly a functional sports chronograph but still elegant, something that this remake inherits. And the simplicity of the original ensures that it doesn’t look dated. Admittedly, this is not exactly novel since TAG Heuer already released the remake of the ref. 2447S with an all-silver dial in 2020. But the “panda” dial is undoubtedly more appealing. It’s perfect homage to the 1960s and the brand’s history in motor racing. The dial gets the details right, including the “Heuer” logo, brushed ...

INTRODUCING: Oris debut new in-house manually wound movement with the Big Crown Calibre 473 Time+Tide
Oris debut new in-house manually Jan 10, 2023

INTRODUCING: Oris debut new in-house manually wound movement with the Big Crown Calibre 473

Oris debut new in-house manually wound calibre 473 in the new Oris Big Crown Calibre 473. Despite being manually wound, it is 0.5mm THICKER than the previous automatic model due to new power reserve indicator on the movement. The release also heralds Oris’ first-ever butterfly clasp with fine adjustment mechanism. Introducing: The Oris Big Crown … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Oris debut new in-house manually wound movement with the Big Crown Calibre 473 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 10, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325

When Grand Seiko (GS) made its return in 1998, the inaugural SBGR001 model was powered by the 9S55, the first modern-day GS calibre. Now the brand is marking the 25th anniversary of the 9S movement family with a pair of limited editions. The Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Hi-Beat 36000 SBGH311 and the Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGR325. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 has a patterned dial, while the more affordable SBGR325 has a dial with a brushed finish. Both are modelled on the original model of 1998 and sport the same 37 mm case. SBGH311 (left) and SBGR325 Initial thoughts With their 37 mm cases and clean styling, the new 9S pair hark back to the GS watches made from the late 1990s to mid 2000s. That is unsurprising since they are meant to commemorate the first model with the 9S movement, which made its debut in 1998. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 does have a fancier pattern dial, but one that is relatively subtle in its shades-of-grey texture. As a result, they will appeal to anyone who wants a smaller, simpler GS watch. Another upside of the relatively simpler execution are the prices, which place the pair amongst the most affordable self-winding GS watches. The SBGH311 is US$6,600 and the SBGR325 about 20% less. SBGR325 Old-school size The SBGH311 has a textured dial in silvery grey inspired by clouds that’s matched with a blued-steel seconds hand. And the “GS” emblem is gilded in a nod to the fact that this is an anniversary edition. Not...

How the Meistersinger Singularis Enamel Edition finally won me over Time+Tide
MeisterSinger Dec 17, 2022

How the Meistersinger Singularis Enamel Edition finally won me over

Although I am a self-confessed lover of weird things, I could never really put my finger on why I hadn’t fallen for Meistersinger. I’ve always enjoyed their single-handed quirk and charm, and I’ve definitely recommended them to people who are looking for something different in the past, but it wasn’t until the new Meistersinger Singularis … ContinuedThe post How the Meistersinger Singularis Enamel Edition finally won me over appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Confession of a terrible watch collector: Mistakes, I’ve made a few… Time+Tide
Dec 10, 2022

Confession of a terrible watch collector: Mistakes, I’ve made a few…

I am a terrible watch collector.  I’ve been collecting watches terribly for about 10 years now with no end in sight. It admittedly consumes much of my free time and an embarrassing amount of the money that I should actually be socking away for the time when I can’t do my real job any longer. … ContinuedThe post Confession of a terrible watch collector: Mistakes, I’ve made a few… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm we are all pining for Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm we Dec 10, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm we are all pining for

There’s definitely not a shortage of stainless-steel sports watches in the marketplace. It’s a truly saturated category due to the high demand, so if you’re going to draw attention away from the usual suspects then the design you bring to market has to be distinct and fresh. Fortunately, that is exactly what the Chopard Alpine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm we are all pining for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.