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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

The weird rise of ‘swear clocks’ – the world’s most potty-mouthed ways of telling the time Time+Tide
Dec 4, 2022

The weird rise of ‘swear clocks’ – the world’s most potty-mouthed ways of telling the time

Editor’s note:  Due to the nature of the subject matter, the following story contains lots of swear words and wilfully offensive language. If you’re offended by bad language maybe give it a miss. “Unwashed Cock Olympics! It’s 6:00am.” That’s the sort of thing you get on the Twitter account that is Swear Clock  (@swearclock).  When it … ContinuedThe post The weird rise of ‘swear clocks’ – the world’s most potty-mouthed ways of telling the time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IWC Nov 30, 2022

Hands On: IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar

IWC has a suite of instantly recognisable models synonymous with the brand, namely the Pilot’s Watches and of course, the Portugieser. But one collection does get as much recognition as its peers, despite being almost 40 years old. Named after the famous seaside city in Italy, the Portofino was introduced in 1984 (though the inaugural model didn’t yet have the Portofino name at the time) as an oversized pocket watch-style wristwatch, something of a clarion call to persist with mechanical watchmaking after the Quartz Crisis. Now the brand has revived one of the classics from the line with the Portofino Perpetual Calendar. At 40 mm in diameter, it’s the most compact of IWC’s perpetual calendars and is equipped with an in-house movement from the 82000 family. Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar is a sought-after complication for its utility but also its aesthetics, especially when it includes a moon phase, which adds a touch of romanticism to the design. IWC’s latest take on the complication is straightforward, practical, and priced reasonably enough. In fact, it’s essentially a visually-simplified version of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42, which uses the same movement but inside a larger case. While not revolutionary in technical terms, the Portofino Perpetual Calendar is a solid performer with a concise design. It retains all the features that made the 1990s original appealing but adds a few contemporary touches in both design and the in-house base m...

GADA-OFF: The Longines Spirit Titanium vs the Tudor BB58. Which is the better daily wearer? Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Titanium vs Nov 27, 2022

GADA-OFF: The Longines Spirit Titanium vs the Tudor BB58. Which is the better daily wearer?

Editor’s Note: This article was originally published back in January earlier this year, but, with our recent list of the team’s GADA (go anywhere do anything) watch picks, this article came back to mind. Two daily wearers, with competetive specs and their own tradeoffs. A very solid match-up, dive back into the debate below. When the … ContinuedThe post GADA-OFF: The Longines Spirit Titanium vs the Tudor BB58. Which is the better daily wearer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OK, we’ve found the perfect watch for an eccentric but jaded billionaire… Time+Tide
Nov 26, 2022

OK, we’ve found the perfect watch for an eccentric but jaded billionaire…

You know that people-watching game that you sometimes play.  The one where you speculate – ideally with a partner – on the complex inner lives of total strangers.  That middle-aged man at the bar, for example, knocking back his fourth scotch. Is he celebrating a day of deal-sealing triumph? Or trying to blot out the … ContinuedThe post OK, we’ve found the perfect watch for an eccentric but jaded billionaire… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin China Edition SJX Watches
Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin Nov 23, 2022

Hands-On: Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin China Edition

Descended from Piaget’s ultra-thin dress watches that first emerged six decades ago, the Altiplano is the brand’s quintessential dress watch in the modern day. Minimalist and refined, the Altiplano is pared back, legible, and well-proportioned – not to mention very thin – as expected from a brand that launched its first ultra-thin watch in 1957. The latest addition to the ultra-thin lineup is the 21-piece limited edition that emerged from a collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Limited Edition. It will be available only at Piaget boutiques in China with the exception of the prototype numbered “00/21” that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale on November 28. Initial thoughts Ordinarily found with a conservative and somewhat plain silver dial, the Altiplano gets a major makeover with a lacquered green dial paired with pink gold hands and indices that liven up its usual monochromatic look. It’s clearly a dress watch yet manages to stand out against all the other dress watches. That said, the dial is almost perfect, but not quite – the date window with a white date disc looks out of place. I would have preferred the dial to do away with the date altogether. The case remains the same as the standard model with a wearable and modern size of 40 mm matched with a thinness of just 6.36 mm that’s further enhanced by the slim lugs. Its height, or lack thereof, is thanks to the cal. 1205P, among the...

HANDS-ON: The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition is a sporty refresh of the best value Swiss GMT around Time+Tide
Mido Nov 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition is a sporty refresh of the best value Swiss GMT around

Special edition watches can celebrate anniversaries, achievements or celebrity tie-ins, but sometimes a special edition can just exist because the watch is special. Mido’s latest reference of the Ocean Star GMT applies the classic Pepsi colour scheme to their flagship travelling diver, injecting it with even more of a sporting attitude than it already had. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition is a sporty refresh of the best value Swiss GMT around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rich Flex: Drake or 21 Savage – who has the better watch collection? Time+Tide
Nov 15, 2022

Rich Flex: Drake or 21 Savage – who has the better watch collection?

21, can you do sum’ for me? Can you hit a lil’ rich flex for me? On Drake and 21 Savage’s recently dropped collaborative album Her Loss, the track Rich Flex kicks things off and since its release it has overtaken Tik Tok and other social media. While others have been quick to make memes jesting at Drake being … ContinuedThe post Rich Flex: Drake or 21 Savage – who has the better watch collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #27 “GPHG Prize Categories” Time+Tide
Nov 12, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #27 “GPHG Prize Categories”

The GPHGs each year are a big moment for the watch industry. But as spectators, some find particular prize categories quite confusing – especially if they do not speak French. So, this week, in our biggest crossword yet, see just how well you understand the prize categories. Some are absolutely obvious, others may take a … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #27 “GPHG Prize Categories” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Norqain speaks our language with new bronze and green Adventure Sport 42mm Time+Tide
Norqain speaks our language Nov 12, 2022

Norqain speaks our language with new bronze and green Adventure Sport 42mm

I may not be an Aussie myself, but green and gold tones definitely get the T+T HQ going. Norqain recently moved upmarket with their Wild One collection, but that does not mean they are abandoning their positioning at lower price points as well. The new Norqain Adventure Sport 42mm Bronze Khaki Dial is a handsome … ContinuedThe post Norqain speaks our language with new bronze and green Adventure Sport 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s elemental SBGW293 and SBGW291 are a celebration of fine details Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s elemental SBGW293 Nov 11, 2022

VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s elemental SBGW293 and SBGW291 are a celebration of fine details

Grand Seiko and special releases – name a better love story. The duo we’re looking at today, the air-inspired silvery SBGW291 Kuuki and earthy SBGW293 Tsuji, continue the prolonged celebration of the 55th anniversary of the brand’s 44GS case. Famous for its sharp, reflective facets and plentiful wrist presence, it takes on a reduced form … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s elemental SBGW293 and SBGW291 are a celebration of fine details appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

100 Best Instagram Accounts for Watch Enthusiasts Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 9, 2022

100 Best Instagram Accounts for Watch Enthusiasts

There is tons of content on Instagram for watch enthusiasts - almost too much of it, some might argue. But how do you know you’re getting what you’re looking for as you scroll down your feed? For that matter, which of the many dozens of accounts devoted to engaging the #watchcommunity should you be following based on your own interests and favorites? After asking our audience for their favorite watch-related accounts, we’ve compiled the 100 best Instagram pages for watch lovers, divided into categories. There’s something here for everyone, whether you’re seeking out celebrity wrist shots, rare vintage pieces, specific brands in the spotlight, cheeky watch-world memes, or just really eye-catching watch-lifestyle photography. Affordables @affordablewristtime A showcase of watches under $1,000, linked to a review website. @practicalwatch  Spotlighting watches with a price ceiling of $1,500. Brand Specific @billiosophy A Hong Kong watch collector shows off his collection, mostly German pieces, heavy on A. Lange & Söhne. @rolexaholics Just what you'd expect: a plethora of Rolexes from a variety of collections. @gshock626.socal  Despite the handle, this page is all about showing Seiko. @creatingcartier A member of the Cartier family shares stories of watches and jewelry. @lapinist_watchrestoration  Watch restorer of Grand Seiko cases and movements shows his work   @rolex_lover Rolex photos and wrist rolls, updated daily. Celebrity Watches @insaneluxurylife Cel...

The Apple Watch is the enemy of mindfulness – mechanical watches will keep you sane Time+Tide
Nov 6, 2022

The Apple Watch is the enemy of mindfulness – mechanical watches will keep you sane

You know what sounds nice? Mindfulness. You know - being in the moment. Noting your breath, checking in on the breeze, and focusing on the feeling of your ass in the chair and your feet on the ground. All that good stuff. I wouldn’t really know, though. I’ve been trying to make some mindfulness progress … ContinuedThe post The Apple Watch is the enemy of mindfulness – mechanical watches will keep you sane appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar Oct 25, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute was a phenomenal success. Whether that was due to the influx of luscious, colourful dials or the honouring of its 1930s heritage, there was just something about those models that struck a chord with modern audiences. Now, instead of placing safe bets and expanding their colour ranges further, Jaeger-LeCoultre have reached … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Which Rolex Movement Takes The Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison Of Rolex Calibers 3135 And 3235, And Which Is Better? – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Movement Takes Oct 22, 2022

Which Rolex Movement Takes The Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison Of Rolex Calibers 3135 And 3235, And Which Is Better? – Reprise

Ask any watchmaker about the Rolex 31 family of calibers and the story will be the same: it has stood the test of time. Ashton Tracy hasn’t met a single watchmaker who doesn’t love working on these workhorse Rolex movements. They are easy to service, keep great time, and stand up to abuse. Put simply: they work. So how does it stand up to big brother, Caliber 3235? Find out right here!

My Top 6 Independent Watches From The Upcoming October 29 Ineichen Auction ‘Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons’ (With Videos Of The Watches) Quill & Pad
Oct 20, 2022

My Top 6 Independent Watches From The Upcoming October 29 Ineichen Auction ‘Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons’ (With Videos Of The Watches)

“Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons" is the title of the upcoming Ineichen two-part watch auction on October 29 and December 3, 2022, and it’s a title that attracted Ian Skellern's attention. There are 50 watches in the auction, a nice mix of both big and independent brands, so it’s well worth scrolling through the online catelogue, especially if money is burning a hole in your wallet because you can’t find a retailer with stock.

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portugeiser Chronograph IW371620 is a near-perfect warm weather watch Time+Tide
IWC Portugeiser Chronograph IW371620 Oct 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portugeiser Chronograph IW371620 is a near-perfect warm weather watch

The IWC Portugieser collection is rooted in both class and utility. It was an elegant solution, originally presented in 1939, due to demand for a marine-deck chronometer experience that could be translated into a wristwatch. It was oversized for its time – a rather sporty characteristic – but still every bit as elegant as its … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portugeiser Chronograph IW371620 is a near-perfect warm weather watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Record Heritage Chronograph SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Oct 14, 2022

Longines Introduces the Record Heritage Chronograph

Longines is best known amongst watch enthusiasts for the Heritage collection of vintage remakes. The brand’s other offerings don’t usually enjoy the same level of attention – though the recent Master 190th Anniversary is an exception – so Longines is now adding some vintage flavour into its other lines. The brand’s latest is a mashup of its COSC-certified Record line and the Heritage collection. Unsurprisingly retro with a black gilt dial, the Record Heritage is the first chronograph in the Record collection, up to now comprised entirely of time-and-date chronometers. Initial thoughts Longines’ vintage-inspired chronographs are mostly appealing but Record Heritage still stands out because the brand hasn’t done too many with a black gilt dial. Looking both sporty and elegant, such dials are a favourite amongst collectors when it comes to vintage chronographs, and the look works just as well on a modern-day remake. That also means the Record Heritage is the most eye-catching watch in the Record collection, which was quite mundane until now. And unlike some past remakes that were too chunky, the Record Heritage has modest dimensions that vintage watch enthusiasts will appreciate. The case has good proportions overall and is just 40 mm wide, thought it is slightly thick due to the movement inside. More importantly, the dial has no date window to detract from its vintage aesthetics. Admittedly, the Record Heritage, like all Longines remakes, is neither origin...

VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster ’57 is a funtastic take on a classic Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster ’57 Oct 8, 2022

VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster ’57 is a funtastic take on a classic

The Omega Speedmaster is certainly deserving of being called an icon. I won’t bore you with its historical provenance, nor the space-dwelling efforts of the Professional – I’m sure you’ve heard it all. The Omega Speedmaster ’57 is what today is all about. While it still incorporates lots of vintage-inspired touches, the Speedmaster ’57 takes … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster ’57 is a funtastic take on a classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love Time+Tide
Rolex models Oct 3, 2022

Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love

A collaboration between Bamford and Romaric André of seconde/seconde/ feels just perfect, doesn’t it? Bamford made a name for himself by “vandalising” sought-after Rolex models in his signature aqua and black, while seconde/seconde/is renowned for subverting the smallest details of a watch in the most irreverent way possible. Now the pair have finally come together to … ContinuedThe post Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Avant-Garde Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Oct 3, 2022

Highlights: Avant-Garde Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

After looking at some of the highlights of independent watchmaking and unorthodox sports watches at Sotheby’s upcoming sale in Hong Kong, our final instalment covering notable lots is all about avant-garde complications – most of which are far more affordable than the original retail prices suggest. Naturally the selection is by big-ticket mega watches such as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, but it includes several more creative and intriguing watches that aren’t widely known. Amongst them are a pair of Harry Winstons with exceptionally complex reinterpretations of the tourbillon, along with a Ulysse Nardin featuring a pulley-operated retrograde hand. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2171: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Best know for the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Girard-Perregaux (GP) counts far more complex iterations of the tourbillon amongst its offerings, including this tri-axial tourbillon. Though launched in 2014, the tri-axial tourbillon remains the most complicated tourbillon from GP. It consists of two nested tourbillon carriages with two different axes of rotation, which are then mounted onto a third rotating track that adds another dimension of rotation, resulting in the triple axis motion. Unsurprisingly, the tourbillon assembly is extremely complicated – it consists of almost 150 parts – and takes ...