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Cosmograph Daytona Rolex

The Rolex chronograph born on the racetrack. History, references and specs.

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Datejust Rolex

The first self-winding waterproof wristwatch with a date window - and the reference Rolex.

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Submariner Rolex

The 1953 Rolex diver. James Bond's watch and the template every dive watch copies.

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Hans Wilsdorf

Founder of Rolex (1905) and Tudor (1946). Invented the Oyster case and the Perpetual rotor.

The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 20, 2023

The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction

How much would you pay for a watch? What if it was the only one of its kind, or a record-breaker in terms of complications, or once owned by someone famous or historically significant? And just how expensive are the most expensive watches to ever change hands in a sale? In today's red-hot watch auction market, the answers, and the sums, may surprise you. Here we run down the list of the top 25 watches in descending order of the price they fetched on the auction block, while spotlighting some of the timepieces with the most fascinating backstories and representing the most impressive technical achievements. You'll find the expected abundance of watches from Patek Philippe and Rolex (the clear leaders in the category) but also a few from other watchmakers, large and small, who've recently broken into the upper echelon. At the end, we'll spotlight the highest selling watches from a few other brands that didn't crack the top 25 but maintain a robust presence on the watch auction scene. 1. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 ($31.19 million, 2019, Christie’s) Patek Philippe unveiled the first Grandmaster Chime watch in 2014 as part of the many celebrations around the Genevan maison’s 175the anniversary. The reference that made history at the Only Watch auction in Geneva in 2019 was a unique piece, the only Grandmaster Chime ever crafted in stainless steel; the Grandmaster Chime models in Patek’s regular collection are all made in precious metals. The watch...

The Tissot Sideral is Both a Re-Interpretation and Trendsetter Worn & Wound
Tissot Sideral Oct 17, 2023

The Tissot Sideral is Both a Re-Interpretation and Trendsetter

One of the more adventurous releases from Tissot as of late, the Sideral S is not an entirely new concept; it is a modern reinterpretation of the original from 1971. That watch was a huge-for-its-time 42mm regatta timer whose case was forged from, of all things, bakelite. Rolex 6542 enthusiasts and others know this wasn’t the most durable material, and Tissot has reissued the Sideral – this time in carbon fiber and stainless steel and we have them available now in the Windup Watch Shop. Look closely, though, and you’ll realize this is a watch that not only embodies a few current trends but may set some new ones of its own. In this case (see what I did there?), it’s what’s on the outside that counts. One of the more adventurous releases from Tissot as of late, the Sideral S is not an entirely new concept; it is a modern reinterpretation of the original from 1971. That watch was a huge-for-its-time 42mm regatta timer whose case was forged from, of all things, bakelite. Rolex 6542 enthusiasts and others know this wasn’t the most durable material, and Tissot has reissued the Sideral – this time in carbon fiber and stainless steel and we have them available now in the Windup Watch Shop. Look closely, though, and you’ll realize this is a watch that not only embodies a few current trends but may set some new ones of its own. In this case (see what I did there?), it’s what’s on the outside that counts. The post The Tissot Sideral is Both a Re-Interpretati...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Alec Dent Worn & Wound
Blancpain doesn’t have heritage Oct 13, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Alec Dent

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Alec Dent brings us a trio of amazing and historic tool watches, each with a story to tell. This is a selection with loads of character and a surprising amount of flexibility. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. In putting together the perfect three watch collection, I’m looking for diversity. Who wants a collection where each watch is competing against the others? A well-rounded trio gets you more bang for your buck and can provide some assurance that each watch will get a decent amount of wrist time. With only three watches it’s hard to make sure you’ve got a watch for every occasion-like measuring radioactivity, keeping highly-accurate time for a thousand years, or calculating your rate of martini consumption-but I feel confident I’ve covered most of the important bases. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf – $1,500 Every watch collection needs a dive watch. (Or, as many in the watch community seem to think, two or three or four or five or…) There is no better value proposition than the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf. 200 meters of water resistance with a screw down crown? Check. Heritage? I don’t know how you could argue a 141-year-old Swiss made brand that launched one of the first true dive watches alongside Rolex and Blancpain doesn’t have heritage. And unlike those other two brands, which have seen their prices balloon exorbitant...

Highlights: Notable Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Autumn Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5004R Sep 27, 2023

Highlights: Notable Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Autumn Auction

Commencing in early October, the autumn auction season begins with Sotheby’s Important Watches I, a catalogue of 205 lots that will be sold on October 7 in Hong Kong. The auction includes artisanal timepieces, examples of independent watchmaking creativity, and exceptional complications. Here, we present eight notable complications including some unsurprising, six-figure picks like a Patek Philippe ref. 5004R with a special-order dial and a Rolex ref. 6062 “Stelline” from the original Japanese owner. But the list includes some that may fly under the radar but deserve recognition, such as the travel-ready Richard Mille RM62-01 (albeit conceived for flying private) and an impressive Patek Philippe ref. 942 grand complication pocket watch that includes a grande and petite sonnerie, putting it in the top rank of all pocket watches. Important Watches I takes place on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 2166: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar ref. 345.056E  The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has effortlessly fuses the renowned Lange 1 design with a complex movement, conspicuously excluding the tourbillon found in its larger counterpart. At launch, the watch was available in two guises: pink gold with a grey dial or the more popular, limited edition white gold with a “salmon” (pink gold) dial, as we see here.  In contrast to conventional calendars that employ sub-dials, the Lange 1 perpetual calendar sea...

The Omega Symbol: Where Does it Come From and What Does it Mean? Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Sep 21, 2023

The Omega Symbol: Where Does it Come From and What Does it Mean?

The Omega symbol that accompanies the brand’s classical logotype is one of the most recognizable emblems in the watch world, up there with Rolex’s hallmark coronet and Patek Philippe’s venerable Calatrava cross. But what exactly does Omega’s iconic hieroglyph actually symbolize, and what is its meaning in the context of the Swiss manufacture’s watchmaking history? Put simply, the symbol that has long been identified with the Omega brand is a stylized version of the 24th and final letter in the Greek alphabet, called Omega. (If you went to a college that had fraternities and sororities, this probably isn’t news to you.) Much like its counterpart at the beginning of the Greek alphabet, Alpha, the symbolism of the letter Omega has been interpreted various ways throughout history. As “the first” letter, Alpha has become associated with leadership and dominance, i.e., an “Alpha Male” or an “Alpha Dog.” Omega, as the final letter, has been known to connote greatness in its own way, representing the culmination or ultimate expression of a great effort or undertaking. The Biblical connotation of “I am the Alpha and the Omega” - i.e., the beginning and the end, as spoken by Jesus in the Book of Revelation (below) - has also lent weight to the concept of Omega as representing the end of an epoch or, in more ominous but perhaps more horologically relevant terms, the End of Time. So what does all this have to do with a watch brand? Let’s start at the...

Highlights: Sotheby’s Paris “Fine Watches” Online Auction SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw planetarium along Sep 16, 2023

Highlights: Sotheby’s Paris “Fine Watches” Online Auction

Sotheby’s Fine Watches has just opened online, marking the start of the fall auction season. Curated by the auctioneer’s Paris office led by Benoit Colson, the sale promises a diverse selection of vintage and contemporary watches from establishment names like Rolex and Breguet, along with a handful of independent watchmakers. While the complete catalogue boasts 160 lots, we have put together a selection of interesting highlights ranging from value-buy complications like a Breguet rattrapante chronograph to the unusual first-generation Christiaan Van Der Klaauw planetarium, along with a very nice vintage Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542. And for European buyers, Sotheby’s is notable for being the sole global auction house conducting watch auctions within the European Union – majority of such sales are in Geneva and London – which gives clients the chance to purchase watches without the hassle associated with import taxes. Fine Watches takes place online September 15-29. All the watches will be on show at the preview exhibition inside Sotheby’s Paris office located at 76 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found on Sothebys.com. Lot 363: Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 in yellow gold The Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 was mostly in stainless steel with the distinctive “Pepsi” bezel. However, the present lot stands as out for being in yellow gold with a brown bezel and matching dial with nipple-shaped hour markers. Dating to 1958,...

eBay Finds: Pulsar Computers, Baylor Chronographs, & Longines Olympian Worn & Wound
Longines Olympian eBay Finds Sep 7, 2023

eBay Finds: Pulsar Computers, Baylor Chronographs, & Longines Olympian

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Baylor Chronograph Got some real gems for our readers this week, starting off with a gorgeous vintage Baylor chronograph. The 40mm wide steel case has nice thick lugs, and even though it looks like it has been polished in the past, it still looks solid. The dial is a beauty, jet black with three white chronograph sub dials that are ringed in silver. Nice steel baton hour and minute hands with lime round out the bold look. The crown looks to be original and was signed, but has some wear the logo has worn off. This one is powered by the famous Valjoux 72, the same movement used in the Rolex Newman Daytona chronograph. And this watch will go for a LOT less than a Daytona would cost! Seller states it runs and works properly and was serviced about five years ago. View auction here. Bulova Sea King This vintage Bulova Sea King has a great looks with some unique touches. The case is yellow gold plate, with no wearthrough that I could see. The gold dial is super clean, with a nice radial brushed finish and it has the little Sea King whale logo which I just love. The case looks unpolished with sharp edges and a cool engine turned bezel like the Rolex Thunderbird. This one comes with th...

Oris Goes Deeper than Ever with the All New AquisPro 4000m Worn & Wound
Omega underscore Aug 29, 2023

Oris Goes Deeper than Ever with the All New AquisPro 4000m

The recent history of dive watches is all about going deeper and deeper beneath the ocean’s surface. Recent releases (and major technological advancements) from Rolex and Omega underscore the continuing interest on the part of brands, collectors, and, we assume, pro divers in maximizing depth ratings, whether for practical purposes or bragging rights. The watches that come out of the research and development around extreme depth resistance have a certain appeal even if you don’t have a particular desire to even get them wet – they are technological marvels, and often compelling design objects with an offbeat aesthetic appeal. Now, Oris is getting in on the act, with a new member of the Aquis family that goes deeper than any before it, the AquisPro 4000m. The headline here is right in the name of the watch: this is an Aquis that is rated to an impressive 4,000 meters of water resistance. While not as robust as Omega’s Ultra Deep which is rated to 6,000 meters, or the truly incomprehensible Deepsea Challenge diver by Rolex that goes to 11,000 meters, this Aquis handily beats other divers in the Aquis family, which are typically rated to 300 meters. It does so with an oversized, multi piece titanium case measuring 49.5mm in diameter and a little over 23mm thick.  I don’t know if there’s an obscure Swiss law that says any dive watch rated over a certain depth rating needs to have some kind of ocean themed dial design, but we get one with the AquisPro 4000m in the ...

A Week In Watches, Ep. 62 – Limited Editions Galore, & One Special Guest Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Aug 27, 2023

A Week In Watches, Ep. 62 – Limited Editions Galore, & One Special Guest

A Week In Watches returns with a special episode, highlighting a bevy of new limited edition watches, a new, slightly small Christopher Ward The Twelve, and one guest appearance to help shed some light on his latest work. There’s something for everyone this week, from high end colorful chronographs in the new Zenith Defy Chromo II, to serene new US exclusives from Grand Seiko. Did we mention they were limited editions? Elsewhere, Christopher Ward has revealed their next steps for the The Twelve integrated bracelet sport watch, scaling it down to 36mm in diameter, and bringing some new dial colors to the table for good measure. Finally, we’ve got news from Brew, who released a new Metric this week with an automatic movement. We’re thrilled to welcome our friend Johnathan Farrer to the show to give us a first hand look at the new watch, and talk us through some of its distinguishing features. We love that the case wasn’t compromised to house the automatic movement, and that it still manages to keep its price point in check. We recorded this week’s episode just prior to news of Rolex purchasing Bucherer, but keep an eye out for our thoughts on that in an upcoming episode of the Worn & Wound podcast. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Worn & Wound+ Slack community. Worn & Wound+ represents our commitment to the community as we strive to build a better environment for enthusiasts of all stripes. Whether you’re into LED quartz watches from the ‘80s, mod...

The Owner’s Perspective: Tudor’s Third Generation Black Bay Heritage 41 Burgundy WatchAdvice
Tudor s Third Generation Black Aug 24, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: Tudor’s Third Generation Black Bay Heritage 41 Burgundy

After searching for months to try one on, I finally got my hands on the new Tudor Black Bay, and when told I was able to purchase it, I bought it! So how has it been after a month or so on the wrist? Why I Bought It Liked the 5-Link bracelet aestheticWell proportioned case and dialNew T-fit clasp The Ownership Reality Wears well due to the slimmer caseNo date still, slight bug bear of mineAluminium bezel insert is more prone to scratches than ceramic Overall rating: 9 /10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 The Back Story The Black Bay Burgundy is now in its third generation or iteration of the watch. Originally released in 2012 to much acclaim, the watch was a great homage to the Tudor and Rolex dive watches of the 50’s. 10 years ago, it was released with an ETA movement and had the now much sought after “smiley” dial, with the lines of text at the bottom being curved making it look as thought the watch was smiling at you. And maybe it was?! This was then updated and launched at Baselworld in 2016 with the Tudor inhouse movement, the MT5602 that was COSC, the smiley removed and now with three lines of text saying it is Chronometer Certified. This is still the case with the current black and blue bezel variants on the love it or hate it faux riveted oyster style bracelet (which was done to mimic the pieces of the 1950’s). All three generations of Black Bay, from the Smiley to the new Master Chronometer However, at Watches an...

Watch Complications: A Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 17, 2023

Watch Complications: A Comprehensive Guide

A watch complication, by definition, is any function offered by a timepiece that is in addition to its primary function of keeping the time. Despite the name, watch complications don't really have to be, well, all that complicated: that date display you glance at before signing a check qualifies as a complication even though it's not nearly as complex and dynamic as, say, the split-seconds chronograph you use to time racing laps or the world-time function you consult before making a call home on an international business trip. Here we run down the major watch complications from the simplest to the most mechanically sophisticated, and provide an example of each. Date Complications: Date Window Probably the most common of “small complications,” this is simply a display of the date via a numbered disk that passes under an aperture in the dial, usually positioned at 3 o’clock, 4:30, or 6 o’clock. Unless the watch is an annual or perpetual calendar, this date will need to be manually adjusted forward at the end of any month shorter than 31 days. Some watches, like the Rolex Submariner, enlarge this display by placing a magnifying lens over the window. Large Date This one also goes by “big date” “grande date,” or “panorama date,’ and is essentially just a larger version of the standard date display, though it usually uses two date disks (one for the tens numeral and the other for the ones) rather than one, and a double window, with each numeral appearing in...

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face Time+Tide
Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor Aug 13, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face

It may come as a bit of a surprise, but I often compare Rolex and Cartier due to a strong commonality. Yes, they are very different brands with very different products. But an element I believe they do share is a very key point. Watch enthusiasts often point out that Rolex practises incremental updates. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Summer Shades for the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Glashütte Orig... Aug 9, 2023

Summer Shades for the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph

Glashütte Original has released the latest variations of its vintage-style sports chronograph, the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. First introduced in 2014, the watch is defined by a squarish case, integrated bracelet, and in-house movement. Now the German watch brand has unveiled a limited edition pair that feature matte, lacquered dials in either ochre or grey-blue. Initial thoughts Given the niche appeal of its obviously-retro case, it is unsurprising that the Seventies Chronograph doesn’t receive as much attention as most sports watches derived from that period. It doesn’t quite have the same look of the most popular watches of the 1970s (think sports watches from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet). That’s something of a shame considering the excellent, integrated chronograph movement inside. Hopefully, the introduction of brighter dial options will boost its appeal. Certainly, the new dial offerings align with the current trend for coloured dials, particular the dial in light blue that’s much like the shade found in the Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection. This dial update significantly improves the models in terms of visual appeal as it gives the model a more lively appearance compared to earlier versions that had conventional dark, metallic finish dials. Priced at US$14,100 on a rubber strap and US$15,300 on a matching bracelet, the new models cost slightly more than the standard models. But given these are limited editions in colours will not be seen a...

Doxa Sub Review: The Iconic Dive Watch You Should Know More About Teddy Baldassarre
Doxa Aug 4, 2023

Doxa Sub Review: The Iconic Dive Watch You Should Know More About

If you're seriously into dive watches, you probably know that the Doxa SUB is one of the most important and influential members of that popular genre, but if your interest in underwater timepieces and their history is more casual, you may not be aware of Doxa's unique spot in that pantheon of pioneers that includes household names like the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Here is a brief history of the Doxa SUB and a rundown of where the watch renowned for bringing orange dials to the watch world stands today.  Bound for Glory Doxa founder Georges Ducommon, a native of the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle and one of his family’s 13 children, came to watchmaking early in life. He began an apprenticeship with an established local watchmaker in 1880, and within less than a decade had developed the skills, creativity, and resolute confidence to start his own business. He founded Doxa in 1889, naming it after a Greek word meaning “glory,” a bold harbinger of the successful future Ducommon envisioned for his brand. That success came in fairly short order, with Doxa pocket watches winning accolades at World’s Fairs in Belgium, in 1905, and in Italy, in 1906. With automobile racing becoming a popular pursuit in the early part of the 20th century, Ducommon filed a patent in 1907 for a caliber with an eight-day power reserve, which became standard equipment in the dashboard clocks of Bugatti race cars. After Georges Ducommon’s death in 1936, Do...

Christopher Ward Introduces a Pair of New Dial Variants to the C63 Sealander Range, Along with a Brand New Five-Link Bracelet Design Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Aug 2, 2023

Christopher Ward Introduces a Pair of New Dial Variants to the C63 Sealander Range, Along with a Brand New Five-Link Bracelet Design

Christopher Ward is refreshing their C63 Sealander line this week with more than just new dial variants. Of course, we’re getting new dial variants, but the big news here for collectors and fans of the brand is the debut of a new bracelet option. Dubbed the Consort, the five-link style is reminiscent of a traditional Rolex Jubilee bracelet, but still very much its own thing, and adds a new, more elegant, dimension to Christopher Ward’s all purpose sports watch.  Before we get to the bracelet, let’s start with the dial updates. There are two brand new references here, a Dragonfly Blue version of the C63 Sealander GMT, and a Mulberry Red execution of the C63 Sealander Automatic 36mm. The red dial in particular is quite striking in these Christopher Ward supplied images. This is a tough color to get right, and perhaps even tougher to pair with everyday attire, but it’s undeniably attractive nonetheless. The Dragonfly Blue tone on the GMT has an aquatic vibe not unlike other references we’ve seen from Christopher Ward recently. This one pairs particularly well with the orange tipped 24 hour hand and offers a nice base for the high contrast white, lume filled applied hour markers for easy legibility. Both new dials have sunray finishes that should allow them to come alive in the light.  The Consort bracelet that’s paired to these two watches immediately makes them feel a little more formal, and a little less tool oriented. It’s a traditional five-link design, wi...

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” Jul 31, 2023

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline”

Released in March at Watches & Wonders, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” is perhaps the most notable travel watch in Tudor’s line up thanks to a silvery-white dial that may or may not have been inspired by the Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. A variant of the original model in black, the Black Bay GMT with a white dial is typical Tudor – namely excellent quality and outstanding value – but it might be a subtle reference to the mythical, and sometimes controversial, GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Though there’s no official reference to the potential historical inspiration, the GMT “Opaline” is an in-joke that a historically-minded enthusiast will appreciate. Initial thoughts To the casual observer, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” might seem like yet another iteration of Tudor’s bestselling dive watch. In fact, the GMT might seem less appealing when set against the equally recent Black Bay 54 with its properly-vintage proportions. But the GMT “Opaline” deserves a second look. The softly-grained dial with its “polar” palette is clear, clean, and well-executed, and most importantly possesses a different feel compared to the black dial of the original version, especially since black is the de facto dial colour for sports watches and very, very common. Being a dual time zone and silvery-white, the GMT “Opaline” is different despite its traditional design. That said, the GMT “Opaline” is otherwise entirely the same as the model introduced in 2018, which mea...

We asked you for your controversial watch opinions – here are some standouts… Time+Tide
Patek Philippe ever introduce Jul 30, 2023

We asked you for your controversial watch opinions – here are some standouts…

Will Patek Philippe ever introduce a Nautilus ref. 5811/1A? Will Rolex ever debut a Submariner in RLX titanium? These are questions with uncertain answers. But one thing that is certain is #watchfam having strong opinions. Nothing gets by watch enthusiasts and, with each new release, a flurry of passionate comments on Instagram is inevitable. So, … ContinuedThe post We asked you for your controversial watch opinions – here are some standouts… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille Watch Prices Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Richard Mille Jul 26, 2023

Richard Mille Watch Prices Explained

Barely more than two decades in existence, Richard Mille is one of the luxury watch industry’s most compelling modern success stories and one of the most popular and recognizable brands out there - despite the fact that it makes timepieces that are wildly inaccessible to all but the most deep-pocketed and well-connected aficionados. To many who follow the industry, the brand’s stratospheric prices are the story: In 2022, for example, Richard Mille did $487 million in sales, despite the fact that it only made 5,400 watches that year. Yes, that averages out to more than $90,000 per watch, and even that rather stunning stat doesn’t represent the big picture, as many of Richard Mille’s most coveted models come in at an MSRP in the neighborhood of half a million dollars or more. In its 2023 analysis of the Swiss watch market, Morgan Stanley reports that Richard Mille is now the sixth largest Swiss watch brand in the world in terms of sales, right behind Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe. So why are Richard Mille watches so expensive and what factors set them apart from every other watchmaker in the highest echelons of horology? Read on.  Origins: The Man Behind Richard Mille Watches The foundations of the Richard Mille watch brand reach back to 1988, when its namesake, Richard Mille, Head of Watchmaking and CEO of Jewellery at Paris-based jewelry house Mauboussin, met Dominique Guenat, owner of Guenat SA Montres Valgine, a watchmaker in the S...

T3 Special Watches Introduces Dague Time Dragon and Dague Guilloché SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jul 4, 2023

T3 Special Watches Introduces Dague Time Dragon and Dague Guilloché

T3 Special Watches made its debut in 2021 with the Dague, a watch designed to embody the aesthetic preferences of its Italian founders, vintage watch dealer Andrea Marzari and watch aficionado Alessandro Poggi. Inspired by the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 and livened up with colourful, “Stella” style dials, the Dague has now been given an artisanal touch with the Dague Time Dragon and the Dague Guilloché. The newest iterations illustrate the brand’s ambitious attempts at fine enamelling and guilloché – the brand recruited noted enameller Vanessa Lecci for the cloisonné dial – techniques typically seen on pieces from more established brands.  Initial thoughts In the realm of micro-brands, it is uncommon to find traditional and artisanal guilloché and enamelling due to their high cost. Therefore, it was surprising to see T3 partnering with enameller Vanessa Lecci, renowned for her exceptional work for establishment brands like Cartier, Parmigiani Fleurier, Vacheron Constantin, and Voutilainen. The initial Dague series had a pleasant design that was not truly captivating for anyone not inclined towards a retro, Italian style. However, the new series showcases a significantly more compelling aesthetic. The enamelled dial of the Time Dragon, juxtaposed with the sector-styled outer disc, creates a visually striking contrast highly reminiscent of vintage watches with cloisonné dials made by Patek Philippe and Rolex. It would be exciting to witness the brand’...

Holding court: Wimbledon and the next generation of tennis’ young watch ambassadors Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Jul 3, 2023

Holding court: Wimbledon and the next generation of tennis’ young watch ambassadors

With the recent retirements of tennis superstars Roger Federer (Rolex) and Serena Williams (Audemars Piguet), and with veterans like Rafael Nadal (Richard Mille) on the back nine of their careers, watch brands have been snapping up next-gen talent. At the start of the 2023 Wimbledon tournament, here’s a look at some of the tennis young … ContinuedThe post Holding court: Wimbledon and the next generation of tennis’ young watch ambassadors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch Worn & Wound
Tudor Throwback Jun 29, 2023

An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch

We’ll have a lot more on our favorite lots from this year’s Only Watch sale next week, but on this day of big Tudor news, we’d be remiss not to mention their contribution to the 2023 edition of the charity auction, a solid gold chronograph inspired by their very first automatic chronograph. The Tudor Prince Chronograph One brings some luxury flair to the auction from the tool watch specialist, in a format that the brand had all but abandoned by the time they relaunched in the US over a decade ago. In addition to being a literal unique piece (as all watches in the Only Watch sale are) this one sports a new caliber that is honestly kind of hard to believe even exists in 2023.  The 12, 6, 9 chronograph display here is a familiar sight to anyone who has dabbled in enthusiast centric chronos – it’s the hallmark layout of the vaunted Valjoux 7750, an ubiquitous caliber if there ever was one, used by more brands than we can possibly count over the years, including, of course, Tudor. The Tudor Prince Chronograph line that made use of these movements as well as the earlier “Big Blocks” dating to the late 1970s have always been collector favorites, coming in a variety of colorways over the years. It differs sharply from modern Tudor chronographs that use their in-house caliber with a 3,6 9 layout that seems to beg for comparisons to the Daytona, which of course is made by Rolex, Tudor’s sister brand. Now that classic layout is back, sort of, with what Tudor describe...

Tudor Introduces the Prince Chronograph One Prototype for Only Watch 2023 SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jun 29, 2023

Tudor Introduces the Prince Chronograph One Prototype for Only Watch 2023

Foreshadowing a return of the famous “Big Block” chronograph from 1976, Tudor has unveiled the Prince Chronograph One for Only Watch 2023. Featuring a striking 18k yellow gold case and matching bracelet, the Prince Chronograph One debuts Tudor’s first-ever in-house chronograph movement, the MT59XX – making it the first and only Tudor watch sold publicly to contain a yet-to-be-released prototype movement. Initial thoughts The Prince Chronograph One is an interesting debut for Tudor in many ways. Not only is it an attractive and well-conceived watch in its own right, it’s likely a sign of things to come, particularly with regards to the all-new in-house movement. Tudor’s prior Only Watch entries features unusual materials such as ceramic, bronze, and patinated steel; the Prince Chronograph One continues this trend. Tudor doesn’t often make watches in precious metals – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18k is an exception – leaving that lane open for its sibling Rolex. The 42 mm case and bracelet of this unique piece are crafted from 18k yellow gold, and the screw-down crown and pushers are particularly faithful to those of the original “Big Block” and its sibling, the Rolex Daytona 6263. And it shows remarkable attention to detail that Tudor opted to produce its adjustable T-Fit clasp in 18k yellow gold for this one-off piece. The pairing of a yellow gold case with a black dial and bezel is also timely given the surging interest in the Rolex Daytona “Paul Ne...

How Zodiac started the funky colour trend Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Jun 28, 2023

How Zodiac started the funky colour trend

The deeper history of dive watches will always be murky, especially on the topic of first-time achievements when simultaneous development had countless brands competing. When it comes to trend-setting however, there are some pretty obvious titans which spread their influence. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner were both released in 1953, cementing a significant … ContinuedThe post How Zodiac started the funky colour trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.