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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

MICRO MONDAYS: New Australian brand John Robert Wristwatches introduces the “dressy tool watch” Time+Tide
Patek Philippe was founded more than Jan 31, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: New Australian brand John Robert Wristwatches introduces the “dressy tool watch”

Melbourne isn’t known as a hotbed of horological activity. Indeed, Patek Philippe was founded more than a decade earlier than Melbourne was even recognised as a city. But that hasn’t stopped Melbourne watchmaker John Robert Wristwatches announcing their Archetype collection this week that’s inspired by the dress watches of the 1950s and 60s only with … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: New Australian brand John Robert Wristwatches introduces the “dressy tool watch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Melbourne born and bred John Robert Wristwatches Archetype collection Time+Tide
Jan 29, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Melbourne born and bred John Robert Wristwatches Archetype collection

It isn’t often that the brands we review are homegrown right here in Melbourne, but that’s exactly the case with John Robert Wristwatches. Melbourne is a really, really long way from Switzerland (just ask Andrew about the long-haul flights to Baselworld over the years). But despite the tyranny of distance, the first John Robert Wristwatches … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Melbourne born and bred John Robert Wristwatches Archetype collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The three watches Nick wore most in 2020: Grand Seiko, Seiko and Universal Geneve Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Seiko Jan 23, 2021

The three watches Nick wore most in 2020: Grand Seiko, Seiko and Universal Geneve

In 2020, everything was different. The way we worked. The way we socialised. And even the way we wore watches. If you only ever got your dress watch out of the safe for a black tie event, it’s likely you didn’t touch it at all last year. I heard stories of people who used to … ContinuedThe post The three watches Nick wore most in 2020: Grand Seiko, Seiko and Universal Geneve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SPOTTED: 5 Instagram shots that show the Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection is even better in the wild Time+Tide
Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Jan 21, 2021

SPOTTED: 5 Instagram shots that show the Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection is even better in the wild

We’ve all been there. It’s inevitable as a watch collector. You see a new watch that’s been released and immediately fall in love with it. You can’t get it out of your head, until you finally give in, and track one down in the metal. But once you have it in your hands, you realise … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED: 5 Instagram shots that show the Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection is even better in the wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2021 Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Edition Review WatchAdvice
Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Jan 19, 2021

2021 Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Edition Review

Pros: Beautiful Bronze that will Patina over timeLatest calibre 401 with small seconds at 6’oclock and 5-day power reserveBeautiful blue dial and dial layout Cons: Some may find it pricyBlue woven elastic strap should have been an additional strapNo open case back to showcase the calibre 401 Overall Rating: 7.5 Value for money – 7.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 7.5/10Build Quality – 7.5/10 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Oris has come back to once again honour one of the most influential and inspirational figures of the 20th century, Carl Brashear. Keeping in the theme of Oris’s Carl Brashear limited edition watches of the past, this latest timepiece follows the same colour palette and similar design cues, with now being given the brand’s latest and greatest movement. The Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 limited edition is a special piece, and we at WatchAdvice were certainly happy to be one of the first to be able to review it!  Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition However, before we get into the watch, it wouldn’t do it justice without knowing who Carl Brashear was and why he was so iconic in the diving world. Born in 1931, Carl Brashear was enlisted in the U.S Navy in 1948, just after the Navy was desegregated by the U.S President Harry S. Truman. Carl Brashear faced many hardships and hostility during his career, especially racism while attending diving school in Bayonne, New Jersey. Brashear’s first emplo...

The Seiko x Neighborhood dive watch is awesome. Here are 5 watches that (maybe) inspired it including Tudor, Rolex and more Time+Tide
Tudor Rolex Jan 16, 2021

The Seiko x Neighborhood dive watch is awesome. Here are 5 watches that (maybe) inspired it including Tudor, Rolex and more

Sexy red details combined with vintage inspiration is a marriage made in horological heaven with all Big Box brands wanting in on the game. The market is chock-a-block with slim, tough divers that emulate the discrete tools of the fifties and sixties, and we can’t seem to get enough of them. Me? Guilty as charged. … ContinuedThe post The Seiko x Neighborhood dive watch is awesome. Here are 5 watches that (maybe) inspired it including Tudor, Rolex and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ming Debuts the Facelifted, Ultra-Thin 27.02 SJX Watches
Ming Jan 14, 2021

Ming Debuts the Facelifted, Ultra-Thin 27.02

An evolution of the 27.01, the brand’s original extra-flat watch, the Ming 27.02 is a gentle redesign, retaining the same svelte case and movement, but incorporating a sapphire dial that has a gradient finish that sits on a clous de Paris guilloché ring around its perimeter – albeit at a substantially higher price. The 27.02 also marks the end of the 27 series; Ming “will be retiring the [series] permanently” once its production is complete. Initial thoughts The fact that Ming watches sell out swiftly upon launch attests to the popularity of its watches. So it is perhaps inevitable that the brand is gradually increasing the prices of its watches – albeit with upgrades to the product – as it repositions itself as a more upmarket brand. While the brand’s inaugural 17 series was well liked for being outstanding value – they were mostly under 1,500 Swiss francs – the 27.02 and recent launches like the Diver 18.01 indicate that Ming’s “budget” days seem to be well over. I find the 27.02 to be a fine, handsome watch, with a design that’s quintessentially Ming. The smoked sapphire dial is clever, with its gradient finish making the watch visually intriguing, creating a sense of visual depth that belies its thinness. Nevertheless, the 27.02 is very much the same watch as the 27.01 (which in turn was an upgraded derivative of the 17 series). Both share the exact same case and movement – an ETA Peseux 7001 that has been significantly reworked by Sc...

Book Review: ‘Stalin’s Wine Cellar’ By John Baker Quill & Pad
Jan 12, 2021

Book Review: ‘Stalin’s Wine Cellar’ By John Baker

Whether 'Stalin’s Wine Cellar' is a journey about chasing fakes, or if these bottles hidden away in the former Soviet Union are genuine, the story makes for a rollicking saga. And if the bottles are genuine, who really did own them and what on earth might they be worth? The tale takes us on twist after twist and has been described as “Raiders of the Lost Ark for wine lovers.” Ken Gargett couldn't put the book down.

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar Jan 6, 2021

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar

Having revived the Master Control line early last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre largely translated models from the 1990s into the present day, save for one all-new watch, the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. The Chronograph Calendar features two complications that JLC long offered individually, but never combined before – the chronograph and triple calendar with moon phase. Taking its cues from the bestselling, 1990s collection of the same name, the Master Control is a gentleman’s watch in several flavours, all defined by a subtly retro style. Though a new model, the Chronograph Calendar retains the same style, while having a movement that’s the brand’s longstanding chronograph calibre with the addition of its well-known triple calendar module. The “Master Control” moniker originated from the fact that watches in the original collection were all tested for 1000 hours Initial thoughts Possessing a solid, workmanlike build and finish, the Chronograph Calendar sticks to the ageless Master Control look of the 1990s, more or less. While a couple of details could be improved – one reasonably expects more of the movement given JLC’s history – the Chronograph Calendar is good overall. The Calendar Chronograph in rose gold (left) and steel Visually, the Calendar Chronograph is a largish watch, though it doesn’t measure as such. At 40 mm wide and 12.05 mm high – close in size to the Rolex Daytona – the Chronograph Calendar is moderately sized, but the desig...

Nicki Minaj’s three-month-old son rocks a diamond-encrusted Nautilus worth $400K Time+Tide
Rolex Jan 4, 2021

Nicki Minaj’s three-month-old son rocks a diamond-encrusted Nautilus worth $400K

Well. I don’t know if Nicki Minaj saw my recent story about six unexpected watch spots, which included Cristiano Ronaldo Jr. wearing his father’s Rolex – the most expensive one for sale at retail today. But it seems I may have been a little hasty in proclaiming Ronaldo Jr. the junior #wristgame champion. I genuinely believed … ContinuedThe post Nicki Minaj’s three-month-old son rocks a diamond-encrusted Nautilus worth $400K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Jan 4, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

While the L.U.C XP is best known as Chopard’s pared-back, formal-dress wristwatch, it also forms the base for an interesting collection of limited-edition timepieces decorated in urushi and maki-e, forms of traditional Japanese lacquer – an East Asian take on the metiers d’art often found in Swiss watchmaking. The latest addition to the line its most unusual to date, being not just a decorative expression but also a new, albeit simple, complication. Decorated in lacquer and gold dust, the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen has a mechanism displaying traditional Chinese time of 12-hour days, with each hour represented by an animal of the Chinese Zodiac. Initial thoughts Watches inspired by Chinese culture are common – and increasing given the strength of demand for watches in China – but they oftentimes have an over-the-top aesthetic. Chopard, on the other hand, incorporated the Chinese motifs elegantly, resulting in an appealing watch. At a distance, the Spirit of Shí Chen has a simple, geometric style, but up close the dial reveals its decorative details. The deep-black lacquer dial – sprinkled with gold dust that evoke the cosmos – gives the watch a clean, restrained appearance, save for the elaborate, solid-gold frame and shí chen indicator. An ancient way of telling time is uncommon in a modern watch, making the shí chen indicator the highlight – appropriately enough it is rendered in gold powder and fine detail, with a gold-dusted background tha...

The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight Dec 30, 2020

The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch

Editor’s note: There’s no doubt that the Bulgari watch department is having a very big year. So far they have got hearts racing with the launch of their record-breaking Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, the new Octo Finissimo in satin-polished steel, and then their remarkable High-End Watch novelties. And if that wasn’t enough, there … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cramain Introduces the Mark II Constant Force SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey which works i Dec 30, 2020

Cramain Introduces the Mark II Constant Force

Established in 2014, Cramain recently unveiled its first wristwatch, the Mark II Constant Force. Technically the brand’s second model – the Mark I was never commercialised – the Mark II is a hand-wound, time-only wristwatch equipped with a 20-second remontoir, and produced almost entirely by Kilian Leschnik, one half of the founding duo, the other being Dr Julian M. Stiels, a Swiss medical doctor with a keen interest in watches. Just 28 years old, Mr Leschnik completed his watchmaking studies in 2016. But the German watchmaker was already working on his own wristwatch in 2014, a timepiece that evolved out of his school watch. Cramain is a means to “live his dream as a mechanical artist”, says Mr Leschnik. Mr Leschnik and Dr Stiels developed the Mark II together, with Dr Stiels having taught himself computer-aided design, allowing him to construct do the construction of the watch and its movement. Starting two years ago, Dr Stiels has made Cramain his full-time calling. The pair are the sole owners of the brand, which is entirely self-funded. Part of it was made possible by prototyping work Mr Leschnik has done for various Swiss watch brands. Initial thoughts Impressive in both function and fabrication, the Mark II is evidently a wristwatch of extremely high quality, and one created by a watchmaker with a dedication to quality in form and finish. The Mark II’s design is a contemporary techno-mechanical style that is reminiscent of Greubel Forsey, which works i...

RECOMMENDED READING: MJJ Exclusive is where Europe’s top footballers buy their bling Time+Tide
Dec 28, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: MJJ Exclusive is where Europe’s top footballers buy their bling

When you’re a 25-year-old footballer earning upwards of £100,000 a week, a standard luxury watch can feel a little pedestrian. As Esquire UK’s Finlay Renwick writes in this illuminating story into the lifestyles of football’s elite: “For the best and boldest in Europe, your run of the mill Big Bang, Nautilus or Submariner just won’t … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: MJJ Exclusive is where Europe’s top footballers buy their bling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sensuality & Bell & Ross: Vintage WWI Heure Sautante – Reprise Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross Vintage WWI Heure Sautante Dec 20, 2020

Sensuality & Bell & Ross: Vintage WWI Heure Sautante – Reprise

It’s understood that different things and experiences can be sensual for different people, and yet sensuality can’t ever be wholly objective since everyone has his or her own subjective view due to their own physiological differences. Joshua Munchow's first view of the Bell & Ross Vintage WWI Heure Sautante hit him in what can only be described as a sensual way.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX341 is a formidable everyday option Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGX341 Dec 18, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX341 is a formidable everyday option

Are there any manufacturers that do quartz better than Grand Seiko? The brand, after all, makes their own quartz crystals in-house and upholds them to the most rigorous standards of accuracy – the 9F series of movements, for example, are regulated to run within +/- 10 seconds per year at a minimum. The deviation is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX341 is a formidable everyday option appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Qilin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Dec 17, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Qilin

Vacheron Constantin is closing the year with the elaborate and artistic Traditionnelle Tourbillon Qilin, a limited edition of its flagship 14-day tourbillon. Engraved by hand on the case and dial, the watch gets its name from the mythical creatures on the dial. Prominent in East Asian mythology, the qilin is often depicted as a horse covered in scales, but with the head of a dragon. The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Qilin is graced by a pair of qilin, both sitting on golden clouds. Initial thoughts For a couple of years starting around a decade ago, watches with East Asian – or more specifically, Chinese – motifs proliferated rapidly as Chinese demand for watches grew rapidly. Even if the individual watches were finely executed, and many were, the sheer number of such watches made them less interesting as a whole. Now such watches are less common, which makes them more unusual, and interesting once again. The Qilin tourbillon is grand watch with intricate details (and a price to match). While the theme and style is doubtlessly catered for a specific taste, it does impress with its artisanal decoration and technical excellence. Vacheron Constantin’s metiers d’art watches are always executed impeccably, regardless of technique. Decorated with engraving and guilloche, Qilin tourbillon looks remarkably fine in its details in photos, and will certainly look better in the metal. Perhaps the only downside of the watch is its size, which is substantial for a watch intended t...

Bovet Introduces the 19Thirty Dimier UAE Edition SJX Watches
Casio n Dec 16, 2020

Bovet Introduces the 19Thirty Dimier UAE Edition

The largest watch retailer in the Middle East, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. A family-owned business since its founding, Seddiqi is marking the occasion with several limited-edition watches, including the Bovet 19Thirty Dimier UAE Edition. Based on the 19Thirty Dimier, a time-only wristwatch with a long, seven-day power reserve, the UAE Edition is dressed in a striking combination of black and yellow, with its most distinctive feature being an unusual take on the “California” dial. Instead of the usual Roman and Arabic numeral combination, its dial combines Hindu and Arabic numerals, in a nod to the culture of the region. Initial thoughts Typically a classical-looking watch, the 19Thirty Dimier is very different in the UAE Edition. Recalling racing chronographs, the yellow and black livery is sporty, which works well with the simplified dial that removes some of the elements found on the standard version. The simpler dial design is appealing, although the white print on the base plate feels out of place against all that yellow; a consistent black-and-yellow theme throughout would have been a bit more pleasing. Despite the bright colours, the 19Thirty Dimier is an elegantly-proportioned watch, with a fairly large case but one under 10 mm high. And it is powered by an in-house movement, which like all of Bovet’s movements, is well executed and technically interesting. The cal. 15BM04 inside is simple in function – it has only t...

HANDS-ON: Watches on bracelets are always better and this TAG Heuer Monaco is proof Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Dec 14, 2020

HANDS-ON: Watches on bracelets are always better and this TAG Heuer Monaco is proof

TAG Heuer’s Monaco has experienced a rather slow evolution in recent years, as the world’s most famous square watch shouldn’t be messed with too much. The new black dial TAG Heuer Monaco on bracelet is a further exploration into the watch’s roots, while keeping up to date with all the technical quality we expect from … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Watches on bracelets are always better and this TAG Heuer Monaco is proof appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chalky brights and sexy sorbets – 5 of the best pastel watches of 2020 Time+Tide
Dec 14, 2020

Chalky brights and sexy sorbets – 5 of the best pastel watches of 2020

It doesn’t matter whether you’re in Aussie summer or the Northern Hemisphere winter, whether locked down or suddenly released, we need colours in our lives more than ever this year. From bubblegum pink to baby blue, pastel-coloured watch dials never fail to turn heads and lift sagging spirits, and every man should be secure enough … ContinuedThe post Chalky brights and sexy sorbets – 5 of the best pastel watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Valiant Bronze is inspired by firemen and smoking hot Time+Tide
Dec 13, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Valiant Bronze is inspired by firemen and smoking hot

If there is one main takeaway from our Micro Mondays series, it’s that you don’t have to spend top dollar to get a top-notch watch. William Wood, a watch manufacturer based in London, works to provide consumers with more approachable options for wrist-wear. They work within familiar frameworks, but with distinct designs and details. The … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Valiant Bronze is inspired by firemen and smoking hot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic watch is horological sorcery on the wrist Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Dec 12, 2020

VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic watch is horological sorcery on the wrist

Hublot is a brand that does not always get its horological due. The movements that the brand does not produce in-house are horological footnotes compared to the movements that they do. At their core, Hublot are a bold, brave and forward-thinking manufacturer, and an excellent example of this temerity is the Meca-10 movement. As its … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic watch is horological sorcery on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Eugen Wegner One delivers a magnificent lacquer dial at a bafflingly good price Time+Tide
Dec 10, 2020

VIDEO: The Eugen Wegner One delivers a magnificent lacquer dial at a bafflingly good price

It isn’t an uncommon occurrence for old watch brands to be revived. But for a brand to be resuscitated by the great-great-grandson of the founder is a rarer event. With Eugen Wegner, that’s exactly what happened. The brand was founded way back in 1897 in Gdańsk, Poland, and became successful selling pocket watches and marine … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Eugen Wegner One delivers a magnificent lacquer dial at a bafflingly good price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Dec 3, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero

The definition of an everyday watch is one that doesn’t excel in any one particular area. It has to do everything, from jeans and hoodies, to bow ties and dinner jackets, and it has to do them all well. It needs to be noticeable yet invisible, characterful but discreet, and the Baume & Mercier Clifton … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.