Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Land Rover Edition
A watch that doesn't stop when the road does.
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Unboxing the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ in 18k Yellow Gold
Preposterous, outrageous, and very, very cool, the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ G-D5000-9JR was announced last year. The watch cost US$70,000 – about the same as a Patek Philippe ref. 5172G chronograph or a Voutilainen Vingt-8 in steel – which was a shocker. But with only 35 made, the Dream Project sold out faster than you can say DW-5000. Though the watches were allocated to clients via ballot in May 2019, the first watch was only delivered in January 2020, with the rest of the watches trickling out at a gradual pace until late 2021 when the final watch will be completed. The very first watches were delivered to retailers in Japan, but one recently arrived in Singapore, the only one sold in the city state. Most countries only got one, with very large markets like the United States getting two, and the rest going to Japan. Gold and iron Made entirely of 18k yellow gold – it weighs 297 g or about 10 oz – the Dream Project was first exhibited at Baselworld 2015 as a concept watch. According to watch magazine Chronos Japan, the idea for a gold G-Shock came from Yasuyuki Iima, the president of Eye Eye Isuzu, a noted watch retailer. His suggestion led to G-Shock inventor Kikuo Ibe embarking on a “dream project” – the solid-gold G-Shock. The watch took five years to make it to market primarily because of the challenge in making it as shockproof as a standard G-Shock – basically the watch’s functionality has to survive being thrown out a third-storey ...
Quill & Pad
Hautlence HL Vagabonde Tourbillon: Not All Those Who Wander Are Lost
The Hautlence HL Vagabonde Tourbillon has the perfect nom de guerre for a watch that both mechanically wanders and represents an attitude upholding its values of exploration, creativity, and innovation. Joshua Munchow explains how this watch works and what sets it apart from other tourbillon models.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Goes ‘Modern Times’ At Charlie Chaplin’s World
In April 2016 a new attraction opened its doors in Switzerland, one that has garnered a lot of attention in the Helvetic country due to the unusual touristic nature of its existence: Chaplin’s World. Come with me on a tour of the museum property and find out why Charlie Chaplin lived in Switzerland and which timepieces he proudly owned. Hint: Jaeger-LeCoultre figures prominently.
Quill & Pad
New Tutima Grand Flieger Airport And Chronograph Models With Colored Ceramic Bezels And Cool Textile Straps
Tutima Glashütte has launched two pretty colorful variations of the Grand Flieger Airport, one of the brand’s eight cornerstone collections. With their generous portions of pure pilot DNA, gradient dials in expressive green and blue hues and ceramic bezels, these day-date and chronograph watches are perfect for this spring's outdoor activities.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Chanel J12 X-Ray is the clarity you need in your life
Transparency is almost always a good thing, be it in political donations, corporate bonuses or who your local member of parliament is having lunch with. It is a concept that Chanel has adopted as a motif in their watchmaking department, seen in the Boy.Friend Skeleton, their remarkable Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch (an almost US$800,000 skeletonised … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chanel J12 X-Ray is the clarity you need in your life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal: Colin’s Sinn 903 Chronograph
This is the story of T+T reader Colin's Sinn 903 Chronograph, which is based on a Breitling Navitimer dial.The post What Sealed The Deal: Colin’s Sinn 903 Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: A Game Of Tones
Don't worry, we didn't lose the plot: It's the Audemars Piguet Concept Supersonnerie.
Time+Tide
These are some of the best women’s watches money can buy
Happy International Women’s Day to everyone out there. This past year has seen the unveiling of some of the best new ladies watches that we’ve seen in a very long time. In fact, if you’re a female watch enthusiast, there’s never been a better time to be invested in horology – the offerings from watchmakers … ContinuedThe post These are some of the best women’s watches money can buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Post Malone’s insane watch collection Part 2: With Rockstar Ratings
If you missed out on the first instalment of us rating Post Malone’s watch collection, stop reading and hit this link right here. And, if you haven’t seen GQ’s latest On The Rocks video featuring Posty and his multimillion dollar assortment of timepieces, you can click here. Done that? OK great … let’s, as Malone … ContinuedThe post Post Malone’s insane watch collection Part 2: With Rockstar Ratings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Diver 600M SLGA001
Having just unveiled the impressive 9SA5 automatic movement in the Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002 as part of its 60th anniversary line-up, Grand Seiko is also rolling out a newly-developed Spring Drive movement – the first with a five-day power reserve and thermocompensation. Unusually, the new calibre is making its debut in a dive watch, the Grand Seiko 600M Professional Diver’s watch (ref. SLGA001). Characterised by large, angular lugs, case design of the new diver is familiar, borrowing from the current Grand Seiko high-frequency dive watches. In short, it’s the typical Grand Seiko diver look, meaning big, bold and chunky, measuring 46.9 mm in diameter and 16 mm high. Both the case and bracelet are made of Seiko’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium, which 30% lighter than steel and more resistant to scratches, so the size of the SLGA001 does not translate into substantial weight. Likewise, the dark blue dial retains the usual Grand Seiko dive watch styling. Legibility is maximised with large hands and hour markers – both with generous amounts of luminous paint. The date display on the new diver is at four o’clock, instead of the usual three o’clock. But the date is not just a relocation – thanks to the new 9RA5 movement, the date disc jumps at a “greatly increased” speed for a crisper changeover. The 9RA5 While the design of the watch contains no surprises, the Spring Drive movement inside is brand new and incorporates several features originally...
![Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Geneva-city-jet-deau.jpg)
SJX Watches
Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed]
Following the cancellation of both the year’s biggest watch fairs – Baselworld and Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG) – due to the COVID-19 coronavirus, a consortium of watch brands have come together to show their wares come April. The event, dubbed Geneva Watch Days, was the brainchild of Bulgari and its chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin – one of the first brands to pull out of Baselworld – and conceived with European press and retailers in mind. [Update March 24, 2020: GWD will now take place August 26-29, 2020 instead.] WWG to GWD Taking place when WWG was due to happen, April 26 to 29, Geneva Watch Days now has a line-up of brands big and small: Girard-Perregaux, Gerald Genta, Ulysse Nardin, Breitling, MB&F;, De Bethune and Urwerk. A handful more might sign on, including H. Moser & Cie. and Chopard. However, at present, none of the brands belonging to the major watchmaking conglomerates, Richemont or Swatch Group, or either of the Geneva giants, namely Rolex and Patek Philippe, has announced their participation – and are unlikely to due to the complexities of the industry. Crucially, Geneva Watch Days is not a fair per se, rather it is a series of events organised by brands in separate venues, including boutiques and hotels, but happening during the same period. Because the individual events during Geneva Watch Days are small-scale and discrete, none of them will run counter to the Swiss government’s temporary ban on events with over 1,000 people. ...
Time+Tide
No Baselworld this year, for the first time since World War 1
It was only a day ago that the watch world was reacting to the cancellation of Watches & Wonders Geneva (formerly SIHH), as a result of the increasing spread of the Coronavirus, and wondering if Baselworld would suffer the same fate in 2020. Overnight, the answer was given, as Baselworld announced that it would be … ContinuedThe post No Baselworld this year, for the first time since World War 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why you need a Perpetual Calendar watch on your wrist, today of all days
The perpetual calendar watch is among the most useful complicated watches, as well as one of the most mechanically sophisticated – and it truly comes into its own today, a leap year day. Its complexity is what sets it apart from other calendar watches. The simplest calendar watch has just a date function, driven by gears … ContinuedThe post Why you need a Perpetual Calendar watch on your wrist, today of all days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: RJ-Romain Jerome Declares Bankruptcy
RJ Watches, better known as Romain Jerome, has just gone bankrupt. Announced almost exactly a month after De Grisogono met the same fate, the bankruptcy of RJ Watches SA is the consequence of its majority shareholder, a company controlled by a member of the Saudi royal family, deciding to “stop investing in the company”. Though RJ was never a major watchmaker – its peak revenue was around 20 million Swiss francs – the brand was often in the headlines thanks to its shrewd and occasionally ridiculous marketing. Founded in 2004 and named after the two sons of its founder, Alain Bajulaz, RJ started out making mechanical golf-counter watches, but swiftly took a drastic new direction after Yvan Arpa was appointed chief executive in 2006. By then owned by the Saudi investor, RJ enjoyed a brief period of turbocharged, and in hindsight unsustainable, growth under Mr Arpa. A former Hublot manager, Mr Arpa was a fervent marketer of the most preposterous ideas that were somehow weirdly compelling. Amongst his creations were the rusty-looking Titanic DNA watches and timepieces sprinkled with actual Moon dust. Perhaps the masterpiece was a rusty-Titanic double tourbillon that had no hands and did not tell the time. The 2008 collaboration between Romain Jerome and Cabestan producing the Titanic DNA tourbillon – and now both brands are no more The case has a stabilised and protected rusty-look finish Mr Arpa and the company parted ways in 2009 amidst a lawsuit, and he went o...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase 25th ‘Anniversary’
Last year was the 25th anniversary of A. Lange & Söhne’s modern-day revival in 1994, also the debut year of the iconic Lange 1. For the occasion, ten limited edition Lange 1 models were unveiled over the course of the year. The line-up ranged from the basic to the ultra complicated, but one of the standouts was a model in the middle of the spectrum – the Grand Lange 1 Moonphase “25th Anniversary”. Introduced in 2003, the Grand Lange 1 was essentially an upsized Lange 1, with a larger but slightly thinner case – and the same L901.0 movement found in the standard Lange 1. The result was an awkward, cramped dial with overlapping displays that abandoned the orderly asymmetry of the classic Lange 1 dial. Nine years later, the Grand Lange 1 movement was redesigned to create the cal. L095.1, which accommodated all of the indications on a dial with the correct proportions. A moon phase was added to the movement the following year, which increased its thickness slightly. The 25th anniversary edition is a second generation Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase with a subtle, beautiful twist – and one of the most appealing models from the anniversary line-up. Anniversary livery Though large, the watch is notably flat, giving it an elegant profile on the wrist. With a height of 9.4 mm, the white gold case is still thinner than that of the basic Lange 1, despite having the additional moon phase complication. The tripartite case construction has a brushed middle between the polish...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The revelatory Franck Muller Color Dreams
One of the biggest perks about this job is discovering things that I previously wouldn’t have known about myself. Now, I know that sounds both simultaneously profound and clichéd, and I am talking about watches after all, not the meaning of life … but it’s true, this job has taught me a great deal about … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The revelatory Franck Muller Color Dreams appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We asked you if the Zenith Defy was underrated, and this is what you said
A few days ago, we uploaded a photo of the Zenith Defy Classic Ref.95.9000.670/51.R790 and asked our 120,000 followers this question: “Is the Zenith Classic underrated?” The response was resoundingly confirmative, with many people opining that not only the Defy Classic but the Defy range in general was, more often than not, overlooked and it shouldn’t … ContinuedThe post We asked you if the Zenith Defy was underrated, and this is what you said appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What is it with Perth and Daytonas? Glenn explains his ‘unusual’ 116500LN in the days after Horology House scandal
The week before last, three members of the T+T team went on a national roadshow. Though, in reality, it was more of an airshow, considering we covered more than a lazy 10,000km in six days. The goal was to meet members of the Time+Tide Club in their own cities. It was a magical mystery tour … ContinuedThe post What is it with Perth and Daytonas? Glenn explains his ‘unusual’ 116500LN in the days after Horology House scandal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: In conversation with Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman
Of all the Swiss watch manufacturers, Audemars Piguet has had one of the longest and most storied histories since their founding in the Vallée de Joux in 1875. For their entire period of operation, Audemars Piguet has been a family-run watchmaker, affording them an independence from the commercial pressures of conglomerates and allowing the brand … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: In conversation with Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Melbourne Franck Muller boutique robbed in broad daylight by man wielding syringe, hammer and bad wig
**UPDATE: We have had confirmation from Franck Muller Australia that the stolen model is a round diamond watch, model number 4200 QZ R D3 CD 5 N with serial number 36. If you come across this watch, please contact Crime Stoppers on 1800 333 000. No pictures of the watch are available at this time.** … ContinuedThe post Melbourne Franck Muller boutique robbed in broad daylight by man wielding syringe, hammer and bad wig appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces the 158 Chronograph “Bund Remake”
The new Sinn 158 is unusual in being a remake of a vintage watch originally produced by another company, but due to a quirk of history, simultaneously a Sinn. In the 1960s and 1970s Heuer supplied the German armed forces, or Bundeswehr, with the 1550 SG flyback chronograph. Though typically military in style, the Heuer 1550 SG was fairly distinctive, with a black-coated rotating bezel and oversized sub-dials. A favourite remake In the 1980s, Sinn was contracted by the Bundeswehr to refurbish the 1550 SG watches, resulting in some having a Sinn-branded dial. At the same time, decommissioned or surplus watches were also acquired by Sinn, which then sold them to civilians. Having become something of a cult favourite due to its design, size, and affordability, the Heuer 1550 SG has been the subject of several past remakes by Sinn. Named the Sinn 155, the earliest remake was for the Japanese market in 2007, and later editions included a 155 for German department store Manufactum. A Heuer 1550 SG “Bund” from the 1970s. Photo – TAG Heuer Because of its hands, the 158 is the most modern-looking of the remakes, but still retains all of the key elements of the original, most notably the four screws to secure the inner case to the outer case, as well as the flat step where the lugs meet the bezel. Like the original, the 158 has a bead-blasted steel case with a bidirectional, black-coated aluminium bezel. The case is 43 mm like the 1550 SG, but slightly thicker at 15.15 mm high ...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Avantist La Majesté Tourbillon
Now four years old, Avantist was founded by Bruneian entrepreneur Keeran Janin and probably most famous for its tennis watches that incorporate string taken from the racquet used by Martina Navratilova when she won Wimbledon 1987. The brand has since diversified into other memorabilia timepieces, including one that contains strings from one of John Mayer’s guitars and another featuring threads from the national flag flown on the day of the Sultan of Brunei’s coronation. But Avantist’s most notable timepieces are the series of skeleton tourbillon watches that are entirely customisable, the La Majesté Tourbillon. These custom watches have so far been created for notable personalities, including sportsmen and heads of state; the first example – the model name translates as “His Majesty” – was conceived for the Sultan of Brunei. Powered by a hand-wound, skeleton movement from complications specialist Concepto, the La Majeste is customisable in its entirety, from the case and movement material to the design of the barrel ratchet wheel. Though the La Majeste is yet another watch in the sporty-skeleton-tourbillon genre, it manages to be a different take on a familiar look. At the same time, it combines an interesting movement with a surprisingly light and tactile feel in the hand. Thoughtfully detailed From design to production, the La Majeste Tourbillon is the work of leading names in Swiss watchmaking, most notably with Concepto supplying the movement. Best kno...
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Five Great Watches From 2019 That You Probably Forgot About
With so many great watches from last year, you can't remember them all.
Time+Tide
Great ‘Grams: A tennis superstar, a unique Rolex
This week on Great ’Grams, we’ve got a tennis superstar, a fully custom wristwatch by George Daniels, and a southpaw Rolex Day-Date, and more. The tennis superstar in question is none other than Gaël Monfils, who this week posted about a new Instagram account he has started (@myson.watches) that will focus specifically on his watch … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: A tennis superstar, a unique Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Semper & Adhuc Rescues Homeless Vintage Movements
French startup Semper & Adhuc is making its debut with a familiar proposition: affordable, time-only watches, but with a historically conscious twist – each watch is powered by a homeless vintage movement. Also unusual is the fact that while the movements are Swiss, namely the A. Schild AS 1012, every other part of the watch, including case, dial, and hands, is made in France. The brand was started in 2016 by watchmaker Colin de Tonnac, who spent several years at Patek Philippe in Geneva before setting up Semper & Adhuc in Bordeaux. The inaugural line-up is made up of three minimalist watches with quirky details and form cases, but the most interesting bit is the slightly romantic rationale behind the movement inside. Saving abandoned movements All three models are powered by the same calibre, the hand-wound AS 1012 produced by A. Schild, a Grenchen-based movement maker that was once one of Switzerland’s largest. Produced from 1936 to 1960, the AS 1012 is an unusual movement because it is, or rather was, an oval form calibre destined for ladies’ watches, explaining the compact size of about 13 mm by 15 mm. It has 17 or 21 jewels depending on the version, and a 36-hour power reserve. Examples of the AS 1012 and its variants The AS 1012 was inexpensive and robust, making it popular enough that millions were produced. And after the Quartz Crisis, a good number of the movements – likely the majority of them – were in watches that were no longer desirable. That wa...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel
With the Freak being the undisputed flagship complication of Ulysse Nardin – as well as a historically important watch – many of the brand’s other technical accomplishments often go under the radar. One intriguing offering that hasn’t gotten much attention: the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Despite the somewhat dull name, the Tourbillon Free Wheel is a compelling reinterpretation of a mystery clock – where the mechanics are artfully hidden and exposed for visual effect – that is both fascinating and exotic. The Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel with an aventurine dial While the base model of the Executive collection features a largely conventional, open-worked movement, the Tourbillon Free Wheel takes things a step further by elevating the crucial parts of the movement like the barrel, tourbillon regulator, and gear train for the power reserve. In fact, most of the components are “floating” – the movement boasts a flying tourbillon, a “flying” gear train and power reserve indicator, as well as a “floating” barrel. At the same time, the construction is inverted, with parts that are usually hidden sitting exposed, and vice versa. As a result, the tourbillon and power reserve display appear to operate in isolation, with no obvious connection to the rest of the movement. Floating and flying minimalism While much of the gearing is hidden underneath the dial – which doubles up as the base plate – most of the moving parts are “floating” –...
Time+Tide
Why is the Omega Seamaster Professional 300M such a good daily wear?
Editor’s note: If it can be the daily wear of James Bond, it can be yours, too. But how does the Omega Seamaster Professional 300M actually wear on the wrist? If you haven’t had the pleasure of experiencing one in the metal, it’s a must, because while the brief of making a daily watch might … ContinuedThe post Why is the Omega Seamaster Professional 300M such a good daily wear? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina Carbotech PAM 1661
Three years ago, Panerai introduced the LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days PAM 700, an experimental watch boasting carbon-based innovations inside and out, including ceramic bridges and plates that do away with jewelled bearings as well as a dial coated in carbon nanotubes giving it an absolute black finish. But the LAB-ID was truly experimental, and word has it that only a handful were sold and the planned 50-piece run was never completed. But no doubt due to the popularity of the LAB-ID’s design – and unpopularity of the €50,000 price tag – Panerai has just announced the Luminor Marina Carbotech 44 mm (PAM01661). It’s essentially a smaller, simpler LAB-ID, featuring a case in the same material, as well as blue lume on the dial and hands, but with a straightforward automatic movement without any of the bells and whistles found in the LAB-ID. The Luminor Marina Carbotech 44 mm Depth rated to 300 m, the case is made of Carbotech, a carbon fibre-reinforced polymer produced by compressing thin sheets of carbon fibres at high pressure with a high-end polymer (PEEK), explaining the wave-like appearance of the material. The result is a material that is light and strong, explaining why the large, 44 mm case weighs just 96 grammes, less than half the same case in steel. The LAB-ID of 2017 The watch has a standard Panerai dial, but in the colours of the LAB-ID. Like most Panerai dials, it has a “sandwich” construction, where the hour markers are cut-outs that r...
Time+Tide
Weekend watch spotting with JR: the vintage edition
As is always the way on Australia Day weekends, I went to an endless succession of parties and barbecues. These shindigs are a great opportunity to go watch spotting and I was fortunate to stumble across a few exciting timepieces that had one thing in common - they were all vintage. So without further ado, … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: the vintage edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.