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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Hands-on – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Aug 28, 2024

Hands-on – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome

Hyper Horology. A term coined by the Roger Dubuis manufacture that perfectly describes its complex and extravagant watchmaking style. The brand doesn’t shy away from uniquely creative and colourful expressions, regularly incorporating exotic materials stemming from the automotive or aeronautical world. Roger Dubuis’ latest adaptation of its cornerstone Excalibur collection not only incorporates a double […]

More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More Fratello
Omega Credor Aug 24, 2024

More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More

Let’s face it: 2024 didn’t come loaded with optimism from brands, so we weren’t expecting big changes. Watches and Wonders was filled with evolutionary timepieces and studied tweaks, and the most surprising releases of 2024 so far caught us napping. It might have taken less to surprise me this fairly quiet year, but I’ve still […] Visit More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More to read the full article.

Best Of British Watches Event In Brighton On Saturday, September 7th, 2024 Fratello
Aug 23, 2024

Best Of British Watches Event In Brighton On Saturday, September 7th, 2024

Following the excellent British Watchmakers’ Day in March is the Best of British Watches event in Brighton on Saturday, the 7th of September, 2024. The bustling Brighton seafront’s Old Ship Hotel will host the event in the spacious Paganini Room from 1:00 PM to 5:00 PM. This year is not short of exciting watch events […] Visit Best Of British Watches Event In Brighton On Saturday, September 7th, 2024 to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- Mike’s Picks From Nomos, Zenith, And JLC Fratello
Zenith Aug 22, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- Mike’s Picks From Nomos, Zenith, And JLC

I live in a world where €10,000 isn’t throwaway money. However, I was researching a list of my favorite watches under this magic threshold, and something dawned on me. The world has changed, and while I’ve been living in it, I’ve slept through the fact that many watches cost significantly more than this. At first, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- Mike’s Picks From Nomos, Zenith, And JLC to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV WatchAdvice
Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef Aug 21, 2024

Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV

In this review, I get a hold of the fourth Aquis rendition commemorating one of Australia’s greatest natural wonders! But is it truly a standout? Let’s find out! What We Love: Dial is unique yet elegant and possibly timeless Wears extremely well Supremely capable movement for the price point What We Don’t: Uniquely coloured dials are always a point of caution Can it come in any smaller sizes? The price point is contentious Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Everyone loves a bit of independence in their lives. Having your own slice of agency signals freedom to do whatever you please – like buying watches, for example – without having to worry too much about the consequences.  But, of course, it’s not that simple. Agency, and by association freedom, can be an elusive thing, which is why we oftentimes find ourselves getting attached to characters, products and brands associated with the idea of finding freedom. Not everyone can break the Matrix like Neo, ‘Just Do It’ like Nike or beat up their boss like Stone Cold Steve Austin, so we live vicariously through those that operate, or are perceived to be operating, on an independent level. In the watch industry, Oris is one of the finest examples of freedom and independence in watchmaking. Having followed their slogan to “Go Their Own Way” since 1904, their perception of freedom is conveyed through their dedication to independent design, techn...

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Flyback In Steel And Gold, Green, And Brown Fratello
Longines Spirit Flyback Aug 21, 2024

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Flyback In Steel And Gold, Green, And Brown

Since its introduction in 2020, the Longines Spirit collection has become very popular. That’s understandable due to its modern design and great finishing. It also helps that many different versions cater to anyone’s needs. In 2023, Longines added a Spirit Flyback alongside its regular Spirit Chronograph. Upon its release, the Spirit Flyback was available in […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Spirit Flyback In Steel And Gold, Green, And Brown to read the full article.

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Aug 20, 2024

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G

The Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G is one of Patek Philippe’s most practical watches in the “Compilations” family because it combines two useful functions: a calendar that needs setting only once every four years along with a dual time zone display with double day-night indicators. Smartly constructed such that the calendar indicators move in sync with the local time hand, the ref. 5326G has a vintage-toned aesthetic on a smartly detailed dial, presented in an elaborately decorated case. All of that, however, is packaged with a hefty price tag. Initial thoughts Like its sibling the Calatrava ref. 5226G, the ref. 5326G captures Patek Philippe’s latest generation aesthetic, which is not just about design, but fancy execution of the dial and case. Compared to equivalent models from before, the ref. 5326G takes a more elaborate approach to the habillage, with the hobnailed case flanks being an example. It does, however, still feel like a Patek Philippe. Though it’s relatively large at 41 mm, the case is thin at just over 11 mm, giving the watch an elegant, if wide, profile. The ref. 5326G also stands out for having a movement from the 31-260 family of large calibres that represent the latest and greatest in self-winding Patek Philippe movements. In fact, it’s one of only five references with a 31-260 movement. The cal. 31-260 is unquestionably the most sophisticated of Patek Philippe’s automatic movements, and also the most appealing in terms of design wi...

It’s An “Icy” Monday In August With Two Diamond-Set Versions Of The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Fratello
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Aug 19, 2024

It’s An “Icy” Monday In August With Two Diamond-Set Versions Of The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

This Monday morning, it is all about making crucial “bling” decisions. Not too long ago we had the pleasure of going hands-on with two diamond-set versions of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona in white gold: the reference 126589RBR with a “Panda” mother-of-pearl dial on an Oysterflex bracelet and the reference 126579RBR with a “Reverse Panda” “MOP” […] Visit It’s An “Icy” Monday In August With Two Diamond-Set Versions Of The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to read the full article.

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light - What Makes This Watch So Special? Fratello
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Aug 16, 2024

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light - What Makes This Watch So Special?

Exactly five years ago, just in time for the European Masters golf competition in Crans Montana in 2019, Omega introduced an extraordinary lightweight watch: the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light. The watch was suddenly back in the spotlight again during the Olympic Games Paris 2024, and for those who weren’t around in 2019 and missed […] Visit The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light - What Makes This Watch So Special? to read the full article.

Hands On: Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition SJX Watches
Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Aug 15, 2024

Hands On: Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition

First conceived as an auto-racing inspired take on its jumping hour wristwatch, the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black Edition is the second iteration of the model. Retaining the same design as the original Monsieur Superleggera, the Intense Black Edition is powered by the Caliber 1, a thoughtfully constructed in-house movement. Italian for “super light”, Superleggera is named after the lightweight body-on-frame race cars of the 1930s, a reference to the ceramic-on-steel construction of the Monsieur case. Initial thoughts The original Chanel Monsieur was proof that “fashion” brands can create watches as good as, or better than, their traditional watchmaking counterparts. I liked it for the fact that the design of both the watch and the movement were cohesive, illustrating an attention to detail – right down to the shape of the balance wheel and typography – that most watch brands lack. The Marble Edition is a particular favourite. A sportier and slightly larger version of the original, the Monsieur Superleggera has a more designed aesthetic with the textured, open-worked dial and crown guards, but the design still remains cohesive. It has just the right amount of detail, including the applied retro “Superleggera” logo. Styling aside, the movement remains the same and excellent. Besides the unusual complications – jumping hours and retrograde minutes in a vertically symmetrically layout – the Caliber 1 has a distinctive construction that show...

Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Fratello
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Aug 15, 2024

Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time is a fan favorite for good reason. Whether you prefer the 42mm or the 39mm, you get a fantastic daily travel-friendly watch with outstanding finishing that trumps most rivals. With two sizes and many colors already available, we knew the day would come when Longines would add a titanium version. […] Visit Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Daan’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Zenith, And TAG Heuer Fratello
Grand Seiko Zenith Aug 15, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Daan’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Zenith, And TAG Heuer

It shouldn’t be too hard to pick three favorites from all those sub-€10k watches out there, right? However, Thomas and Jorg have already cherry-picked some classics away from me. I also wanted to stay away from the other evergreens and come up with a few more original picks. That’s why it actually took me quite […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Daan’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Zenith, And TAG Heuer to read the full article.

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan” SJX Watches
Zodiac Aug 14, 2024

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan”

Kudoke has just unveiled an iteration of its signature day-night wristwatch, the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan”, a limited edition of just 15 watches for the upscale department store Isetan, the Japanese equivalent of Selfridges or Galeries Lafayette. The new Kudoke 2 is part of the “Indigo” series of timepieces by independent watchmakers with blue dials that pay homage to the traditional Japanese fabric dyeing technique. It retains the familiar Kudoke 2 dial with the hand-engraved day-night indicator at 12 o’clock, but with a vertically-brushed, dark blue finish. Initial thoughts Best known for its value-minded watches with hand-engraved decoration, the German independent sticks to what it does best with the Indigo edition. The blue-and-gold palette works well, with the rhodium-plated elements, namely the hands, logo plaque, and chapter rings complementing the colour. It is an excellent example of the affordable watchmaking with artisanal touches that’s central to Kudoke’s philosophy (and was also the base for our own 2021 Kudoke 2 “Zodiac”). That said, this is one of several variations of the model that different only in dial colour. The many colour versions make the limited-edition concept less interesting in itself, though the Indigo is striking and one of the most appealing of the versions. Priced at JPY1.98 million, or about US$13,500, the Kudoke 2 Indigo is the typical Kudoke value proposition with features rare at this price point. Besides being small-...

Fratello’s Top 5 GADA Watches Of The First Half Of 2024-From Omega, Tudor, VPC, And More Fratello
Tudor VPC Aug 9, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 GADA Watches Of The First Half Of 2024-From Omega, Tudor, VPC, And More

Another Friday, another list! After a little Olympic break last week, we continue our quest for the best watches released in the first half of 2024. This week, we will be discussing the best new GADA watches. Most of you will be familiar with the concept of a Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch, but what […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 GADA Watches Of The First Half Of 2024-From Omega, Tudor, VPC, And More to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium Aug 8, 2024

Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium

As a brand, Grand Seiko doesn’t exactly skimp on annual new releases. Of course, many of the latest watches are dial variants, so we take extra notice when a completely new model debuts. The titanium SLGW003 “Birch Bark” was introduced earlier this year, and now we’ve had the chance to put it through its paces. […] Visit Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium to read the full article.

Purpose Built: The Sinn EZM 12 SJX Watches
Sinn EZM 12 “Tool” watches Aug 8, 2024

Purpose Built: The Sinn EZM 12

“Tool” watches form a substantial part of watchmakers’ offerings today, at practically every point of the price spectrum. But true tool watches built for – and actually used by – professionals are rare. That’s partly due to the fact that inexpensive electronic watches do just as good a job. But Sinn continues to offer unusual timekeepers conceived specifically for professionals, ranging from pilots to firefighters, including the EZM 12 designed for emergency medical workers. Dr Martin Leitl with the EZM 12 Einsatzzeitmesser Historically a brand focused on tool watches, many watches in Sinn’s catalogue are no-frills timepieces with maximum functionality and legibility. Arguably the pinnacle of its tool watch line-up is the EZM series, short for Einsatzzeitmesser, which translates as “mission timer”. A “mission timer”, generally speaking, is an instrument for time measurement in a professional capacity, often one used for military applications, timekeeping on scientific expeditions, or even automobile races and rallies. The watches that make up the EZM series are largely designed for the needs of professionals in various fields, often conceived with the input of users in the field. The EZM 1 The watch that started the series was the EZM 1 with its distinctive left-handed case orientation. Introduced in 1997, the first “mission timer” was developed for the Zentrale Unterstützungsgruppe Zoll (ZUZ), the tactical unit of Germany’s federal customs aut...

The Enduring Appeal of the Dunhill Rollagas Lighter Worn & Wound
Aug 7, 2024

The Enduring Appeal of the Dunhill Rollagas Lighter

While the term “everyday carry” is broad enough already, I’d bet my money that a lighter which costs close to $1,300 would not be included in anyone’s list. But, for me, it’s hard to deny that a Dunhill Rollagas is the epitome of style and functionality – and here is where I’m willing to expand the definition of “EDC” just a little bit. For many of us who consider ourselves collectors – whether it be watches, pens, or knives – I’m sure you’ve heard the phrase, “My cheap X works just as well!” And while this may be true (and trust me, my house is littered with matchbooks and cheap Bic lighters), I know that I’m not just buying something for functionality. When I buy a luxury good, I’m buying into the brand itself and the history behind it. While the $5 Spongebob watch my nephew wears and my Datejust both tell time, sure, there’s an undeniable difference that exists beyond timekeeping. When a brand does it right, you can almost feel it.  I’d call it nearly talismanic while my more cynical peers may call it just plain ol’ good marketing. But whatever the case might be, I feel a little different holding a Dunhill lighter in my hands. When I run my thumb across the sparkwheel on a gas station Bic, I’m instantly brought back to when I was sixteen and trying my first cigarette. When I do the same with a Rollagas, I feel like a proper adult. I like who I am when I have one in my pocket. The History of Dunhill For a brand to have been on a...

Event: Independent Watchmaking Panel in Geneva, Aug 29 SJX Watches
Urwerk and Rexhep Rexhepi Aug 7, 2024

Event: Independent Watchmaking Panel in Geneva, Aug 29

On the evening of August 29, 2024 in Geneva we’ll have Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia on a panel moderated by our founder SJX, and hosted by Phillips at its downtown Geneva office. The two eminent watchmakers will be discussing the topic: “What is Soul in Independent Watchmaking?” The panel is taking place outside Geneva Watch Days so we can’t promise any new watch launches, but there will be interesting and engaging conversation, and a few drinks. If you’re interested in attending, drop us a line via our website contact form.  

REVIEW: Hands On With The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Ceramic Blue WatchAdvice
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Ceramic Aug 7, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Ceramic Blue

We’ve gone hands on with the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10, and after a week with this piece on the wrist, here’s what we think! What We Love: Its undeniable wrist presence! Unique in-house movement with 10-day power reserve The Meccano-inspired design elements What We Don’t: Is large and won’t suit all wrists Clasp can irritate the wrist a little if the strap is too loose Not as versatile as other Hublot offerings Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This is the first time that I have personally had the opportunity to review a piece from Hublot. Yes, I’ve worn them before and had many times to play around with them, but never in a capacity where I’m actively putting pen to paper (So to speak) and sitting down and writing my thoughts on them. It’s a different exercise doing this compared to just wearing the watches and appreciating them for what they are and enjoying them. I mean, how many times do you sit down and write 2000 words on your daily wearer? It makes you think differently about it, especially as you try and put yourself in someone else’s shoes who may be considering a new purchase. No pressure at all! The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10. Big, blue and beautiful! Having had a fair bit of exposure to Hublot over the last few years, I’ve come into this review with a little more knowledge than had I done this prior, and as I’ve discovered time and time again, the more knowledge you have around...

Audemars Piguet Debuts Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding “Rubberclad” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Royal Oak Offshore Aug 5, 2024

Audemars Piguet Debuts Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding “Rubberclad”

Audemars Piguet’s oversized sports watch line-up gains a pair of entry-level models with the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 37 mm and 43 mm. While the current versions in the catalogue are the colourful (and polarising) Music Edition, the new duo are no-frills with clean designs and muted colours. The 37 mm model combines light grey with 18k pink gold, while the 43 mm model is stainless steel and blue. Both feature “rubberclad” bezels for a more robust and sporty finish that harks back to the original Offshore Rubberclad of some two decades ago. Initial thoughts While some recent Royal Oak and Offshore launches felt over the top in design, the new Selfwinding pair op to keep it simple. They preserve the key elements of the design, namely a chunkier case with crown guards, but keep the styling clean. The low-key design is attractive, especially for someone who wants an Offshore without any of the fuss. That said, the rubber-covered bezel means the signature Royal Oak finishing is absent, though the covering makes it arguably more resistant to bumps than metal. Although the Offshore has often been a testing ground for different materials, such as carbon composite, ceramic, and rubber coating, the designs usually retain a metal alloy bezel finished with the high-end polishing technique traditional for the Royal Oak that results in the trademark play of light on the contrasting finishes. Rubberclad The 18k pink gold model is compact at 37 mm in diameter and 12.1 mm thic...