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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Mike’s Picks From Citizen, Panerai, And Rolex Fratello
Panerai Jul 22, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Mike’s Picks From Citizen, Panerai, And Rolex

It’s summertime, and the heat is on! Well, depending on where you live, perhaps the heat hasn’t shown up yet, but we trust that it’s coming. With that, it’s time for each of us at Fratello to name the best summer watches at three different price points. I’m on board with some oddball picks that […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Mike’s Picks From Citizen, Panerai, And Rolex to read the full article.

A Belated Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep Summer Blue Fratello
Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep Summer Jul 19, 2024

A Belated Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep Summer Blue

You might say that Omega’s Summer Blue collection is old news in 2024, and you’d be right. Omega’s Summer Blue line was hot and trendy in 2023, but it’s been a year, and aside from a few underwhelming Olympic models, we have not seen much from the Biel/Bienne-based brand. OK, there were the white-dial and […] Visit A Belated Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep Summer Blue to read the full article.

Chanel’s Première Transformed Into a Necklace Watch with Headphones SJX Watches
Chanel s Première Transformed Into Jul 15, 2024

Chanel’s Première Transformed Into a Necklace Watch with Headphones

Having launched the Première Édition Originale two years ago, a bestseller modelled on the No. 5 perfume bottle, Chanel has now extended the concept, literally, with the Première Sound Watch. It’s a necklace watch, or a montre sautoir, with a pair of wired earphones, or more specifically in-ear monitors (IEMs), that loop through the links of the chain. Initial thoughts Chanel is now a proper watchmaker with an expansive manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds (where the Monsieur is produced) and a stake in movement maker Kenissi, but it’s primarily a luxury fashion house that derives majority of its revenue from cosmetics and fashion. The Première Sound is very much a fashion watch – and an expensive one at that – but a logical creation that is both useful and instantly recognisable as Chanel. As an aside, the fact that the Première necklace watch is delivered with a pair of wired earphones, instead of wireless earbuds, is low tech but practical since it does away with flaky rechargeable batteries, which will inevitably extend its useful life. Importantly, the earphone cable loops into the necklace and is removable, meaning the Première Sound can revert to just being a necklace watch. Jennie of Korean girl group Blackpink with the Premiere Sound A bottle stopper watch Introduced in 1987, the Première is Chanel’s longest-lived bestseller. Its case is modelled on the cap of the No. 5 perfume bottle, itself inspired by the shape of the Place Vendôme, the square in ...

Upgrade Or Switch Styles With The Forstner Model J And Model O For The Seiko SKX Fratello
Seiko SKX Jul 14, 2024

Upgrade Or Switch Styles With The Forstner Model J And Model O For The Seiko SKX

The Seiko SKX is one of the most popular entry-level mechanical watches ever. There is a good chance that you, as a Fratello reader, have owned one at some point or still do. In any case, this is true for me. However, the original bracelet of that watch has always been controversial. It is infamously […] Visit Upgrade Or Switch Styles With The Forstner Model J And Model O For The Seiko SKX to read the full article.

Introducing: The Airain × Seconde/Seconde/ Type 20 “Up In The Air” Limited Edition Fratello
Jul 12, 2024

Introducing: The Airain × Seconde/Seconde/ Type 20 “Up In The Air” Limited Edition

I dare say there wasn’t a single French Air Force pilot in the 1950s who could’ve foreseen a blue sky with pixelated white clouds in the sub-dials of his Type 20. Airain’s Tom van Wijlick, however, dared to do something different with one of the most iconic pilot’s watches of all time by contacting Romaric […] Visit Introducing: The Airain × Seconde/Seconde/ Type 20 “Up In The Air” Limited Edition to read the full article.

Interview: Arnaud Chastaingt and His Vision for Chanel’s Watches SJX Watches
Cartier Mr Chastaingt took Jul 11, 2024

Interview: Arnaud Chastaingt and His Vision for Chanel’s Watches

Now having been director of Chanel’s watch creation studio for almost a dozen years, Arnaud Chastaingt has shaped the brand’s line-up of timepieces and time-telling objects, imbuing them with a distinctive yet versatile style that is still recognisably Chanel. After a decade at Cartier, Mr Chastaingt took the helm of the design studio as Chanel was expanding and refining its watch division. Besides the scaling up of its longtime manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where top-of-the-line movements like Calibre 1 are produced, Chanel also invested in Kenissi, the movement maker majority owned by Tudor. The brand’s investments in watchmaking have paid off, with its 2024 collection including the J12 Couture Workshop wristwatch powered by the in-house Calibre 6 that incorporates an automaton of Coco Chanel wielding a pair of scissors. While the engineering and mechanics are all located in Switzerland, Mr Chastaingt mandates the aesthetics from the brand’s headquarters in Paris, even designing the bridges of the in-house movements. He spoke to us about design, details, and why a brand like Chanel makes complicated watches for men. The interview was edited for clarity and length. A tiny ring watch modelled on a pin cushion set with pearls and diamonds. Image – Chanel SJX: I’ve seen the new collection and I’m impressed by the variety and design. The first question is, I see a comic-inspired theme with the character watches and the automaton, but these are serious mechan...

Hands-On With The 2024 Full-Gold Cartier Santos - Big, Bold, And Gold Fratello
Cartier Santos - Big Bold Jul 9, 2024

Hands-On With The 2024 Full-Gold Cartier Santos - Big, Bold, And Gold

A golden version of the Santos de Cartier is nothing new. Following Cartier’s two-tone revamp of its previously long-dormant pilot’s watch in 1978, several full-gold versions followed before the Santos collection’s discontinuation in 2016. Then, when Cartier brought it back in 2018, it came in steel, two-tone, and full gold. There have also already been […] Visit Hands-On With The 2024 Full-Gold Cartier Santos - Big, Bold, And Gold to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition Fratello
Yema Jul 7, 2024

Hands-On With The Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition

Yema’s latest release, the Skin Diver Slim CMM.20, celebrates the classic ’60s skin diver aesthetic in style. As a modern-day remake of the original Yema Skin Diver from 1963, the watch takes us back to the early days of the French brand. With the addition of a proprietary micro-rotor movement, we get the best of […] Visit Hands-On With The Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition to read the full article.

Alternative Rectangular Cool - Five Great Options From Hermès, Oris, Timex, And More Fratello
Cartier s resurgence Jul 6, 2024

Alternative Rectangular Cool - Five Great Options From Hermès, Oris, Timex, And More

Cartier’s resurgence is massive, with the brand riding a Kanagawa-sized wave of sales and praise. And yes, along with the Tank, we also love the JLC Reverso and its flippable charms. But what if your budget is a lot less or you simply don’t love those watches’ looks? Trust us, for your wrist, there’s a […] Visit Alternative Rectangular Cool - Five Great Options From Hermès, Oris, Timex, And More to read the full article.

Ressence Gets into the Full Lume Dial Game with the Type 5 L Worn & Wound
Ressence Gets into Jul 2, 2024

Ressence Gets into the Full Lume Dial Game with the Type 5 L

If you’ve spent any time on the watch internet over the last few weeks, it should be no surprise that it’s dive watch season. Hardly a day goes by right now that some new dive watch doesn’t pop up on our radar, or come across our Instagram feeds. Now - with the release of the Type 5 L - Ressence has joined in, harnessing the sheer awesomeness of copious lume to make what may be the coolest version of their Type 5 diver yet. When the Ressence Type 5 was first released in 2015, it was unlike anything else on the market. With its bulbous architecture, oil-filled case, and signature Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) displaying the time, the Type 5 was about as fun as a watch could get. The Type 5 L pushes it even further and is a nice reminder that dive watch design doesn’t have to be static - there are still plenty of pages in the dive watch playbook to explore. On a technical level, the Type 5 L is exactly the watch we’ve seen over the last near-decade, but the technical side of things only tells part of the story. What sets the Type 5 L apart is its fully luminous dial. Without the glow, the Type 5 L looks awfully similar to the gray Type 5G from 2017. It shares the same 46mm wide, 15.5mm thick grade 5 titanium case; the same ETA 2824/2 calibre modified with a ROCS 5 module and magnetic transmission showing hours, minutes, and running seconds (plus oil temperature for good measure); and the same 100 meter water resistance. But it’s a whole other story ...

Opinion: Maybe One Group Controlling All the Major Luxury Brands Would Be Bad? Worn & Wound
Jul 1, 2024

Opinion: Maybe One Group Controlling All the Major Luxury Brands Would Be Bad?

It’s been a slow few months in the watch industry. Not at all uncommon in the summer, and we haven’t even hit the real sleepy months yet, when most of Europe goes on holiday and American watch media is confronted with the reality that we’re working a beat that doesn’t really exist for a short period of time. But there was real news last week: Bloomberg reported that LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault owns a (small) personal stake in the Richemont Group, his closest rival in the luxury goods space. Once the news broke, many began to speculate. Hey, it’s a slow summer – speculating is what keeps us awake. Could this be a sign that LVMH is positioning itself to buy the Richemont Group? Could that even happen? What’s the actual point of antitrust laws anyway?  Bernard Arnault There’s no actual indication, of course, that Arnault wants to purchase Richemont. The holdings, according to Bloomberg, are part of a larger portfolio of Arnault family investments that include many publicly traded companies. No comment as of yet from Richemont or LVMH, although as many outlets are reporting, LVMH has a history of buying an interest in their rivals.  We live in a world where insane wealth becomes more insane every year, so it’s not a huge mental leap to think that Bernard Arnault, who on any given day might be the world’s wealthiest man, could have eyes on getting even richer. Taking an ownership stake in Richemont would almost certainly do that. It likely already has – Ric...

Vero Updates the Open Water with a Smaller Case and New Colors Worn & Wound
Timex es were Jul 1, 2024

Vero Updates the Open Water with a Smaller Case and New Colors

What was your first watch? Not your first mechanical watch, not your first nice watch, but actually your first watch. If you’re around my age, I’d hazard a guess that it was probably something fun. Neon Shark watches, bright G-Shocks, and outdoorsy Timexes were the thing on my playground growing up, and it’s a recipe that still works just as well approaching (or beyond) 30 as it did approaching 10. All this is to say that colorful and waterproof is a recipe for success, and one brand that really gets this is Vero. I don’t exactly remember the first time I crossed paths with a Vero, but I do remember the minty green dial standing out against the stark black bezel, and that I found myself pretty taken with their line of colorful dive watches from the get. It’s an interest I haven’t really shaken, and one only compounded by the latest iteration of their signature dive watch, the Open Water, now in a  38mm case. The big headline here is a series of subtle refinements to the Open Water model, all of which add up to a stark evolution of Vero’s flagship diver. To look at the new Open Water 38 in isolation, one might be hard-pressed to call out many of these changes but put the old and new models next to each other, and the difference will be clear.  The most visually dramatic of these changes is the shift from a black DLC finish on the bezel to a boldly colored Cerakote treatment. A stark black bezel has been a key visual hallmark of the Vero Open Water, so moving...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Thor’s Picks From IWC, Christopher Ward, Oris, And More Fratello
Christopher Ward Oris Jul 1, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Thor’s Picks From IWC, Christopher Ward, Oris, And More

Another challenge accepted, and this time, it’s a hard one. As you know, €5,000 is not the Rolex-bag-filling stash it once was. Yes, I’m old, but it wasn’t that long ago that €5K was big money. Finding the best watches under €5,000 is not easy these days. I say that reasonably subjectively, even understanding Lex’s […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Thor’s Picks From IWC, Christopher Ward, Oris, And More to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Spinnaker Spence 300 Automatic - A Modern Sports Watch With Vintage Chameleon Vibes Fratello
Jun 30, 2024

Hands-On With The Spinnaker Spence 300 Automatic - A Modern Sports Watch With Vintage Chameleon Vibes

Some of us have had enough of vintage inspiration, while others can’t get enough, even after ’60s diver reissue number five. Spinnaker has just released some colorful takes on the Spence 300 Automatic, allowing the vast line to cater to both groups. The Spinnaker Spence 300 Automatic is a solid Miyota-powered wrist buddy that can […] Visit Hands-On With The Spinnaker Spence 300 Automatic - A Modern Sports Watch With Vintage Chameleon Vibes to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: The Battle Of The Bracelets - Oyster Vs. Jubilee Fratello
Jun 30, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: The Battle Of The Bracelets - Oyster Vs. Jubilee

We have a rather special Sunday Morning Showdown for you today. For once, we aren’t pitting two watches against each other. This time, it is up to two bracelet styles to fight it out. These are not just any two bracelet styles, mind you, but two of the most iconic ones to ever affix watches […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: The Battle Of The Bracelets - Oyster Vs. Jubilee to read the full article.

Introducing – The New and Superb Voutilainen KV20i Reversed Monochrome
Voutilainen Jun 28, 2024

Introducing – The New and Superb Voutilainen KV20i Reversed

Five years ago, Kari Vouitilainen‘s atelier unveiled an exciting evolution of the brand’s signature time-only Vingt-8 series, the Voutilainen 28TI model with an inverted calibre. The 28TI (Titanium Inverse) watch, with its sumptuous detailing and delicate decoration, brought to the fore movement components that were previously visible through the sapphire caseback, allowing an impressive display […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Perpetual Calendar Watches - A Selection At Different Price Points Fratello
Audemars Piguet releases Jun 28, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Perpetual Calendar Watches - A Selection At Different Price Points

Another Friday, another Top 5! Last week, we highlighted some of the best recent Audemars Piguet releases. This week, we do not focus on a brand but on a style of watch. It’s a style that Audemars Piguet is no stranger to, by the way. We have recently seen quite a few impressive perpetual calendar […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Perpetual Calendar Watches - A Selection At Different Price Points to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Affordable New Casio G-Shock Gravitymaster GR-B300 Series Fratello
Casio G-Shock Gravitymaster GR-B300 Series Jun 26, 2024

Hands-On With The Affordable New Casio G-Shock Gravitymaster GR-B300 Series

The Gravitymaster isn’t the best-known model in G-Shock’s Master of G series, but it is just as capable and impressive as its collection mates. The newest addition to the Gravitymaster lineup is the GR-B300 series with a design inspired by fighter jets. These three watches feature a fully analog display focused on providing info for […] Visit Hands-On With The Affordable New Casio G-Shock Gravitymaster GR-B300 Series to read the full article.

A Small Brand Takes a Big Swing: the Retter Mistral Worn & Wound
Jun 26, 2024

A Small Brand Takes a Big Swing: the Retter Mistral

Retter is a microbrand founded by New York native Deep Ghosh, and they’ve just released their second watch, the Mistral. The first Retter watch, the 22, was a sub $1,000 integrated bracelet sports watch. The Mistral represents a bigger swing, and could be a sign of the brand growing into itself a little, something you’d hope any brand on their second collection would be doing.  The Mistral is described by Retter as a “dress-casual” watch, which I think in most scenarios is actually just a “watch.” It’s unfortunate, in my opinion, that we need to put labels like this onto new designs, but that’s just where we are at the moment I guess. The Mistral has a genuinely distinct visual identity that doesn’t really fit into a particular category. It’s ironic that the brand would use a somewhat toothless descriptor like “dress-casual” to describe something that in practice isn’t nearly as generic as the term would imply.  What we have here is a 38mm watch with horn lugs and a thin profile of just 7.4mm (crystal included). Retter is able to accomplish this thanks to a case construction they call “shell-style.” You have a to dig a bit through their press materials to get a handle on what this actually means (it’s not explained in detail on their website), but it’s essentially a clever method of building the case in such a way that it suggests old-fashioned soldered lugs without actually doing the work of soldering them. The lugs are part of an integ...

Hands-On With The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date 40mm In Green Fratello
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date 40mm Jun 25, 2024

Hands-On With The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date 40mm In Green

The Divers Sixty-Five is something of a fan favorite among Oris aficionados. And why wouldn’t it be? It oozes the charm of a vintage dive watch, and it is well made and attractively priced in today’s competitive landscape. So when Oris announces new versions, I pay attention. And, as a former owner of a green-dial […] Visit Hands-On With The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date 40mm In Green to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands On With The New Seiko Presage Cocktail Time GMT WatchAdvice
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time GMT Jun 25, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The New Seiko Presage Cocktail Time GMT

The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time has been a hit for the brand, and for under A$1,000, the watch packs a punch! What We Love The gradient Champagne dial with 3D sunburst effect The size is pretty much perfect for most wrist sizes The overall vintage style that epitomises the “cocktail” time theme What We Don’t Crystal is not sapphire by Hardlex Glass Has a minimal power reserve for a watch that may not be worn everyday The movement could be better finished as it is on display Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 The Seiko Presage collection is one of those collections that has something for everyone at varying price points. Everything from more sporty full steel models to the dressier variants with beautiful dials and leather straps. Whichever way you look at them, both Seiko and the Presage have a firm place in the market, and rightfully so. Having had some hands-on experience with last year’s Australasian Limited Edition Lark Cocktail Time, and attending the showcase of this piece in Brisbane at Vintage Watch Co, I can see why these pieces have become so popular with watch enthusiasts and the general public alike. So how does the new Seiko Presage Cocktail time that was released earlier this month stack up? First Impressions With three model variants being released – an ice blue dial on steel, smokey brown on leather, and a champagne dial on a brown leather strap, it’s clear that Seiko is thinking a...

Exhibition: ‘Musubi’ – 50 Years of Cartier in Japan SJX Watches
Cartier Jun 25, 2024

Exhibition: ‘Musubi’ – 50 Years of Cartier in Japan

In 1974, Cartier opened its first boutique in Japan and now marks its 50th anniversary in the country with MUSUBI – Half-Century of Cartier in Japan and Beyond: an Everlasting Dialogue of Beauty and Art, an exhibition of jewels, watches, and objet d’art taking place at the Hyokeikan building in the Tokyo National Museum from June 12 to July 28, 2024. The theme of the event is 結び (musubi), which translates literally as “conclusion” but its constituent characters can mean “the power of the divine spirit is produced by being bound together.” Tokyo National Museum with the flag of the exhibition under its dome Taking place in the building’s two symmetrical wings, the exhibition will be presented in parallel narratives separated into two main sections: “Cartier and Japan, a Tribute to Art and Beauty” and “Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain and Japanese Artists, a Never-Ending Conversation.” The exhibition’s scenography was designed by Studio Adrien Gardère to display the heritage of Hyokeikan’s architecture, while illustrating Cartier’s tribute to Japanese culture. The design is notably inspired by Tokonoma and Sukiya, traditional styles of Japanese architecture, and reflects Cartier’s spirited connection with the country, utilising Japanese industrial scaffolding techniques to stage all the artists on show. The section of the exhibition displaying “Cartier and Japan, a Tribute to Art and Beauty.” The exhibition features 120 piece...

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54 Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 54 Jun 21, 2024

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54

In case you couldn’t tell, we’re fans of Tudor in these parts. Yeah, yeah, nothing new; everyone likes a Tudor, but man, even in head-to-head combat, it’s hard to find much fault with their watches. Well, I’ll tell you a secret: I do have an issue with them. It’s not a big issue, per se, but it’s not nothing, either. Here’s the deal: when you get one, you choose which strap you want, and that’s it. Want the rubber and the bracelet? You better buy two. Ok, perhaps that’s an exaggeration, but as far as Tudor’s website goes, you can’t order the straps separately. Maybe an AD can, but who’s got time for all that? Now, hear me out; the other thing is that they make very good bracelets. If you, like me, are prone to the occasional Black Bay purchase, you will choose the bracelet over the other options. But those other options, the rubber in particular, are just so damn nice. What’s a collector to do? Well, for Tudor Black Bay 54 owners, there’s a new solution from our friends in Singapore, Delugs. Rubber straps are all well and good, but there’s just something special about one meant for your watch. One fitted to the exact shape of the lugs for that modern, integrated look. Introducing the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS straps for various watches, including the BB54. Delugs was kind enough to send one over for some sweat-errr– road testing, so here are my thoughts. Despite the setup, I’m actually not a huge rubber strap person. I’m not a huge br...

Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 - Has Panerai Seen The Light? Fratello
Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 Jun 20, 2024

Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 - Has Panerai Seen The Light?

Forget, if you can, about the 38mm Luminor Due Luna with its mother-of-pearl dial. Instead, focus on the 49mm Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID. Is this massive PAM01800 with a case, case back, and bezel in blue Ti-Ceramitech the watch that will relight the fire in the hearts of a dormant group of Paneristi? It seems […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 - Has Panerai Seen The Light? to read the full article.

Introducing – The Code 41 UNIFY Calls For Tolerance, Equality and Diversity. Monochrome
Jun 19, 2024

Introducing – The Code 41 UNIFY Calls For Tolerance, Equality and Diversity.

Since founding Code41 in 2016, Lausanne-based designer Claudio D’Amore has set his brand apart through transparency, community engagement, and fair pricing. From a product perspective, Code41 has developed a unique portfolio of watches with distinct aesthetics, sporty vibes, and often featuring openworked dials. The brand’s latest collection, UNIFY, is somewhat more approachable and consensual. However, […]