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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

The Evergreens – The History of Urban Jürgensen, The Legendary Danish Watchmaker Set To Return Monochrome
Breguet John Harrison Thomas Mudge Jun 2, 2025

The Evergreens – The History of Urban Jürgensen, The Legendary Danish Watchmaker Set To Return

Looking back at the history of watchmaking, there are some inevitable names to be mentioned: Abraham-Louis Breguet, John Harrison, Thomas Mudge, John Arnold, Antide Janvier, Jean-Marc Vacheron and Christiaan Huygens, just to name a few. Moving up North, in the city of Copenhagen, to be precise, we have to talk about one of the most […]

First Look – The New, Summer-Toned Bulgari Aluminium Chronographs in White and in Blue Monochrome
Bulgari Aluminium Chronographs Jun 2, 2025

First Look – The New, Summer-Toned Bulgari Aluminium Chronographs in White and in Blue

Since its debut in 1998, the Bulgari Aluminium collection has challenged traditional watchmaking norms by combining lightweight aluminium with resilient rubber. In 2020, Bulgari relaunched the collection with a design that was faithful to the original series and enhanced according to modern technical sensibilities. In 2023, the brand introduced refreshed chronograph and limited edition models, […]

Insight: The Overcoil Hairspring, From Breguet to Phillips SJX Watches
Breguet Jun 2, 2025

Insight: The Overcoil Hairspring, From Breguet to Phillips

While the invention of the spiral hairspring by Christiaan Huygens in 1675 kickstarted a revolution in terms of portable precision timekeeping, the concept was far from fully developed. It was arguably only with the later invention of the overcoil hairspring that the ideal oscillator in portable watches emerged. For many years horologists - theoreticians and artisans alike - worked to perfect the balance-hairspring assembly to optimise its performance, notably in terms of isochronism. True isochronism became a sort of holy grail for watchmakers all around the world, who all sought to ameliorate the inherent quirks of the sprung oscillator. The recent Breguet Soucription features an overcoil hairspring of non-magnetic Nivachron alloy The need for end curves The quest for isochronism was a true challenge for horologists. Isochronism is the ability of the balance-hairspring assembly the have the same period of oscillation for small and large amplitudes alike. In other words, the balance oscillation takes the same period of time regardless of the degree travelled. This is very important, since a balance usually swings with high amplitude with a fully wound mainspring and then runs at progressively smaller amplitude as the barrel unwinds. As a timepiece is required to keep good time regardless of  its winding state, an oscillator whose period is independent from its amplitude is needed. (Another solution to this is to optimise the energy delivery from the mainspring with a...

Seiko Introduced Four New References to the 5 Sports Series, and Almost No One is Talking About Them Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduced Four New References May 30, 2025

Seiko Introduced Four New References to the 5 Sports Series, and Almost No One is Talking About Them

Seiko, through their Seiko 5 Sports line, recently unveiled a watch that, five or six years ago, probably would have broken the watch internet. The SKX Series is a collection within the Seiko 5 Sports lineup that directly references the SKX line of Seiko divers, which are perhaps the most iconic of all enthusiast focused watches. The SKX Series under the Seiko 5 Sports banner is not new, but this new quartet of divers feels like the most direct callback to the classic SKX007 and SKX009 yet.  When the SKX watches were discontinued, it was the talk of the watch internet. And the (re)introduction of the Seiko 5 Sports line, as a pseudo-replacement, also drove a lot of conversation, much of it dismissive, or yearning for the “old days” of Seiko when the truly affordable SKX watches (real dive watches, we were always reminded) could be purchased easily by any budding collector. These new watches which connect directly to that SKX lineage say a lot about the state of the brand, and their reception to this point, I think, says even more about the community.  Before we get too deep into the meta-commentary of what these watches mean in enthusiast circles, let’s quickly get some basic objective stats out of the way. The new references (the SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87 and SRPL89, which feature blue, black, yellow and orange dials, respectively) all measure identically to the Seiko 5 Sports watches which debuted back in 2019. That means cases coming in at 42.5mm in diameter, 13.9m...

First Look – Bell & Ross Releases the New BR-03 Diver Lum Outline Monochrome
Bell & Ross Releases May 30, 2025

First Look – Bell & Ross Releases the New BR-03 Diver Lum Outline

Bell & Ross, with its extensive range of highly graphic pilots’ watches inspired by cockpit instruments, consolidated its identity with the BR-01 and BR-03 references (and subsequent derivations). Moving from high-altitude missions to underwater adventures, in 2017, Bell & Ross adapted its archetypal “circle in a square” aesthetic to create the BR-03 Diver, a 300m […]

Introducing Anemoic: From University Project to Watch Brand Worn & Wound
May 29, 2025

Introducing Anemoic: From University Project to Watch Brand

Watch industry trade shows can be intoxicating if not disorienting as you meander down rows of branded tables, making snap judgments as to where you choose to spend your precious time. It’s possible to go through an entire day under the assumption that you had seen everything, tried it on for a wrist shot, and compiled your shortlist only to find out from an acquaintance that there was one model you missed, hiding in their camera roll. That is a fear that all of us in watch media live with. So, when I overheard the rumblings of a young watch designer hiding an interesting prototype in his pocket during the first session of public hours during British Watchmakers’ Day, I knew I had only a few hours to pull on that thread and seek it out myself. Finally, towards the closing hours of the show, I ran into Magnus Swann. Magnus Swann Like an introductory drug deal oozing with awkwardness, I slunk up to the tall figure to introduce myself, hoping he would supply the goods. With equal parts excitement and nervousness at sharing an early glimpse into his personal vision, Magnus produced a prototype, along with immediate excuses for its appearance, offering detailed points for his lofty goals. What began as a university project was finally starting to take shape. For the first time, it was being seen by a select few of the most scrutinizing watch enthusiasts. I sat there with Magnus’s creation in hand, and immediately signed up to follow his story. It is still the early days, ...

Business News: Swiss Watch Exports to US Jump to Record High Before Tariffs SJX Watches
May 29, 2025

Business News: Swiss Watch Exports to US Jump to Record High Before Tariffs

In a rush to beat American President Donald Trump’s tariffs, Swiss watch brands exported almost two months’ worth of inventory to the United States in April, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), the trade body that publishes export statistics widely regarded as a proxy for the overall luxury watch business. Exports to the United States were up over 150% to CHF852 million, more than double the CHF405 million in March. For comparison, the next-largest export destination in April was Japan, with the corresponding figure a mere CHF176 million. Currently, Swiss imports to the US are subject to a 10% blanket tariff, however 31% tariff will be levied on Swiss imports after July 9, assuming nothing changes between then and now. Consumer confidence in the United States, while battered, is showing signs of recovery too, increasing for the first time in five months as measured by economic research institute The Conference Board. For several years now, the stalwart American market has buoyed Swiss watch exports, while demand in China and Hong Kong continue to slide, with April exports to the respective markets down 30.5% and 22.8%. Having started almost a decade ago after the start of an anti-corruption campaign, China’s luxury slowdown isn’t limited to watches, and is unlikely to reverse anytime soon. While some brands can shift inventory to other markets, others are already buying back inventory and cutting production. While less dramatic than in Chi...

Interview – Andreas Wyss, CEO of the COSC, on the Need to Adapt and a “Super-COSC” Certification to Come Monochrome
May 28, 2025

Interview – Andreas Wyss, CEO of the COSC, on the Need to Adapt and a “Super-COSC” Certification to Come

If you own mechanical Swiss watches, one of them potentially came to you with a COSC chronometer certificate. But not everyone knows exactly what this certificate means. The COSC is the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres or the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. COSC certifies Swiss-made movements or watches as chronometers (not to be confused […]

Rolex Wants To Control Everything - From Making Watches To Distributing, Selling, Servicing, Repurchasing, And Reselling Them Fratello
Rolex Wants May 26, 2025

Rolex Wants To Control Everything - From Making Watches To Distributing, Selling, Servicing, Repurchasing, And Reselling Them

Control. It’s all about control. If you’re not in complete control, others can and will mess things up, and you will be held responsible for it, resulting in a negative image. That’s one thing no luxury brand wants to have to deal with. That’s why Rolex intends to control everything, from creating its alloy to […] Visit Rolex Wants To Control Everything - From Making Watches To Distributing, Selling, Servicing, Repurchasing, And Reselling Them to read the full article.

Is Now The Best Time To Buy A Used Tudor Black Bay 58? Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58? May 25, 2025

Is Now The Best Time To Buy A Used Tudor Black Bay 58?

The Tudor Black Bay 58 (formerly “Fifty-Eight”) was a smash hit when it debuted in 2018. At Watches and Wonders this year, the winning formula received an update. For that reason, now is as good a time as any to consider picking up one of the previous versions on the used market. Tudor’s Black Bay […] Visit Is Now The Best Time To Buy A Used Tudor Black Bay 58? to read the full article.

A Second Look at this Year’s New Rolex Novelties Worn & Wound
Rolex Novelties Editor’s Note Earlier May 23, 2025

A Second Look at this Year’s New Rolex Novelties

Editor’s Note: Earlier this week, Rolex held an event in New York City to showcase their latest 2025 releases. We saw most of these watches in Geneva at Watches & Wonders a few months ago, but this was the first time going hands-on with the latest from Rolex for Devin Pennypacker and Garrett Jones. These are their reactions and impressions, as well as a whole bunch of photos (with natural light!) from Garrett.  Devin Pennypacker: There is a saying that gets murmured around the start of Watches and Wonders: The show goes as Rolex goes. This year, however, I was left with a feeling that Rolex was chasing trends rather than setting them for the first time in a long while. New announcements saw them leaning into pastel colors, stone dials, and even integrated bracelets to highlight their 2025 collection. To put it mildly, I was disappointed that there wasn’t immediately a model that stuck out to me as a winner of the bunch. That being said, I also didn’t have the opportunity to go hands-on with the new collection, so every thought was mere speculation. During a recent event in New York, I had the chance to spend some time with many of the new releases, form genuine opinions, and model the watches for our photography by Garrett Jones. Afterwards, Garret and I sat down to discuss a few releases we had time with, delivering our thoughts and feelings towards some of the collection, which we will have staggered below. As always, please leave your takes on these new releases ...

First Look – The New White Dial TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph x Gulf Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph x Gulf May 23, 2025

First Look – The New White Dial TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph x Gulf

The TAG Heuer Monaco needs little to no introduction. Launched in 1969, this distinctive square-shaped chronograph emerged during the golden age of motor racing. At that time, Heuer was renowned for its chronographs, stopwatches and dashboard instruments, integral to motorsport timing. In the same period, in a collaboration with other makers, Heuer presented one of […]