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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Places: The Time Museum of Tehran SJX Watches
May 8, 2022

Places: The Time Museum of Tehran

Iran certainly isn’t the first country that comes to mind when pondering the art and science of measuring time. Besides the obvious fact that the country is historically not a watchmaking nation, the modern-day geopolitics have isolated Iran. But this was not always the case. Before the Islamic Revolution, Iran’s economy was open and boasted considerable dynamism. The country still retained its historical role as an international hub that connected East and West, an important position that allowed Iran to cultivate relations with most of the world’s industrialised countries.  An enduring legacy of Iran’s historically significant status in Near East and its extensive connections with leading nations is preserved, seemingly frozen in time, within one of Tehran’s elaborate, pre-Revolutionary mansions. Located in the Zafaranieh district – one of the city’s oldest districts that got its name from the wealth saffron merchants who once populated the area – the mansion is home to the Time Museum of Tehran. Zafaranieh is an upscale area that’s home to many embassies, including those of the Brazil, Germany, Japan, Switzerland, and Qatar, but the original building where the museum stands predates most of them. It was originally a plain, single-story home dating to the Qajar dynasty (1796-1925), which ruled Iran before the Pahlavis, the last imperial family of Iran who were overthrown during the revolution of 1979. But it was only when Hossein Khodadad, a prolifi...

Six months later: Am I still in love with my Grand Seiko SBGM247? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGM247? Recently I’ve made May 8, 2022

Six months later: Am I still in love with my Grand Seiko SBGM247?

Recently, I’ve made a habit of fantasising about forever watches in my collection. It’s something I feel should exist at the core of every collector, regardless of what they collect. I find the thought of owning something for so long that it becomes synonymous with you classically romantic. Yet, I’d be remiss in not acknowledging … ContinuedThe post Six months later: Am I still in love with my Grand Seiko SBGM247? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultr... May 5, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

The Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a newcomer duo to the Traditionelle collection. It packages Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking prowess in a more feminine product, positioned to be one of the most complicated members of the family alongside a couple of tourbillon models. Complicated watches have often been reserved for larger sizes, so seeing them with proportions … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Hands-on with the Grand Seiko SBGW283, SBGW285 and SBGE277 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW283 SBGW285 May 3, 2022

VIDEO: Hands-on with the Grand Seiko SBGW283, SBGW285 and SBGE277

This past Watches & Wonders in Geneva, Grand Seiko dropped a ton of really cool novelties. There was the Evolution 9 chronographs and GMTs, the white lion high jewellery piece and, of course, the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. But that first wave of releases wasn’t enough for the Japanese manufacture. While not technically Watches and Wonders … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hands-on with the Grand Seiko SBGW283, SBGW285 and SBGE277 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A colourful refresh for the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Geneva Springtime Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Geneva Springtime May 3, 2022

A colourful refresh for the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Geneva Springtime

Thinness is the word of the day, everyday, for Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo. Currently holding world records in several different categories, the Roman Jeweller imbues its design language throughout the watches it produces, while also making them genuinely wearable pieces. The accolade of thinnest may have been niche in the not too distant past, but is … ContinuedThe post A colourful refresh for the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Geneva Springtime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MEET THE TEAM: Borna shares his 5 sleeper hits from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 28, 2022

MEET THE TEAM: Borna shares his 5 sleeper hits from Watches & Wonders

Having held the fort back in Melbourne during Watches & Wonders 2022, I couldn’t help but feel just a little bit of FOMO. It would’ve been great to see the show, but the pain of missing out was eased by the sterling coverage from the rest of the team. Cheers, folks! Today, however, I want to … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Borna shares his 5 sleeper hits from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

‘Keeper Of Time’: Superb Full-Length Feature Documentary On Time And Watchmaking Premiering On April 28, 2022 Quill & Pad
Apr 24, 2022

‘Keeper Of Time’: Superb Full-Length Feature Documentary On Time And Watchmaking Premiering On April 28, 2022

Back in December 2020 a teaser trailer was released for a then-upcoming feature documentary called 'Keeper of Time.' Elizabeth Doerr was quite excited by the trailer and couldn’t wait for its final release. Well, that release has finally come, and she has had the chance to preview it. She shares her (very positive) thoughts about the film here.

Time Design Exhibition: Hands And Eyes On The Beauty Of Watchmaking Quill & Pad
Apr 22, 2022

Time Design Exhibition: Hands And Eyes On The Beauty Of Watchmaking

If you attended Watches and Wonders 2022, you may have noticed the large exhibition called Time Design right near the entrance, which was organized by the cultural arm of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. If you missed the Time Design exhibition at the fair, you may now see it until May 8, 2022 in the FHH’s space at Pont de la Machine right in the center of Geneva. It is free and open to the public.

HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Apr 21, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic

Nivada Grenchen are one of those brands that make you wish you’d heard of them years before you first saw them due to their knack of delivering some of the most perfect executions of vintage reissues that can be found in the Swiss watch industry today. The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic takes … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Apr 19, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Sotheby’s forthcoming Important Watches I in Hong Kong is the first live auction of the year by a major auction house, or so accurately it’s the second day of the auction, with the sale of a mega, single-owner Patek Philippe collection happening in the evening the day before. With the strong demand for independent watchmaking, the 214-lots sale encompasses timepieces from a range of niche and not-so-niche indies. The lineup is naturally led by F.P. Journe, perhaps the marquee name in independent watchmaking today, but the most valuable lot is the very rare and very expensive Montre École, one of 11 watches born of the Naissance d’une Montre project backed by Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour. We round up six highlights from amongst the independent watchmakers at the sale, which starts at 2:00 pm (GMT +8) on April 26, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Montre École no. 09/11 Lot 2127: H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Having been business partners for a decade or so – Moser’s sister company supplies hairsprings to MB&F; – the two brands revealed their first collaboration in 2020 when both coincidentally celebrated their 15th anniversary. The more complicated of the two anniversary editions, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon was more Moser than MB&F; with its dial colour and movement, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. The Cylindrical Tourbillon combines the best of both brands. The aesthe...

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick) Time+Tide
Apr 18, 2022

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick)

Audric launched their first watch in 2020, deep in the throes of the global pandemic. The SeaBorne stood out from the crowd of Kickstarter-funded dive watches due to its multicoloured flair, attention to detail and impressive bang for its buck. For their second watch, the Audric Strider, the brand has now pulled out all the stops … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Ace x Nomos Club 36 Blue Limited Edition Time+Tide
Nomos Club 36 Blue Limited Apr 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Ace x Nomos Club 36 Blue Limited Edition

Watch brand collaborations with jewellers definitely aren’t as in-vogue as they once were, but Nomos’ team-up with Ace Jewelers proves that it should be done more often, as vendors of beautiful objects clearly know how to make a great looking watch. The Club 36 range from Nomos is one of their bestsellers, as its understated … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Ace x Nomos Club 36 Blue Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nicolas Cage loves shortbread, tree bark, and Grand Seiko Time+Tide
Grand Seiko When people use Apr 13, 2022

Nicolas Cage loves shortbread, tree bark, and Grand Seiko

When people use the terms ‘fashion’ and ‘watch’ in the same sentence near die-hard enthusiasts, it can cause a shiver down their spines. “Fashion watch” is practically a derogatory term in the watch community, dismissing a piece as a cheap build leveraging the name of a popular fashion house to elicit purchases. To be fair, … ContinuedThe post Nicolas Cage loves shortbread, tree bark, and Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation Apr 9, 2022

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance

You’d be forgiven if you thought that Jaeger-LeCoultre was only about their stellar movements, or the case-flipping Reverso watch. True, the Reverso is an icon of design, and their movements are so renowned that they’ve powered countless other brands’ finest timepieces, but there’s much more to JLC. So much more. For instance, one of the … ContinuedThe post The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 6, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph

Just after the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders 2022 – on the day after the fair closed in fact – Patek Philippe unveils one of its technical highlights for the year, the 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph ref. 5470P-001. In a first for the Geneva watchmaker, the chronograph is equipped with a high-frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. The high-beat movement results in a lighting seconds hand that completes one revolution around the dial every 12 seconds, allowing the chronograph to precisely record elapsed times with a resolution of 1/10ths of a second (barring user error). This lightning seconds hand runs in tandem with the regular chronograph seconds hand, resulting in an unusual sight on the dial when the chronograph is running. Initial thoughts While lightning seconds chronographs have been done before, it’s surprising to see a traditionalist brand such as Patek Philippe have a go at the complication. The function is often associated with brands with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic like TAG Heuer and Zenith. In terms of aesthetics, the ref. 5470P is another example of the brand continuing to move towards a more modern, striking style, even for otherwise classical models. But under the hood is where it shines. Despite the seemingly simple idea of tacking on an additional gear train for the 1/10th of a second hand, the movement inside underwent a deceptively complex modification. And in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the co...

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Apr 2, 2022

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S

Perhaps a sleeper hit of Watches & Wonders 2022, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S is an intriguing evolution of the brand’s trademark watch that makes its debut just as Ulysse Nardin has become an independent brand. The Freak S is equipped with twin balance wheels, but mounted on a central carousel as is de rigueur for a Freak. Initial thoughts The first twin-balance watch from Ulysse Nardin, the Freak S is perhaps the coolest iteration of the model since its inception in 2001. It has come a long way since the original, having been obviously enhanced in both style and performance. While its most obvious feature are the double balances, the Freak S also includes several details that enthusiasts will appreciate. For starters, it is a purebred Freak. Like the original, it does without a conventional dial, hands, and crown. In comparison, some of the more recent Freaks are more conventional in their execution. Thanks to double balances linked by a differential, the carousel is more striking than ever, while promising improved timekeeping. At the same time, the brand’s proprietary “Grinder” system means the Freak S is self-winding, eliminating the hassle of manually winding the huge mainspring via the notched back. Twin balances with a differential The overarching theme of a Freak is a movement that stands out, literally. The movement sits on three levels – carousel, barrel, and winding system, all arranged one over the other. Most of the movement, including the oscillat...

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022 Quill & Pad
Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Apr 2, 2022

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022

At Watches and Wonders 2022, Chopard unveiled another Alpine Eagle, this time with a sophisticated escapement: a flying tourbillon. While not too long ago the high-end market seemed to be flooded with this tiny whirlwind, that no longer seems to be the case. And Sabine Zwettler thinks that there could not be a better place for a new flying tourbillon than the “Aletsch” blue dial of the Alpine Eagle.

Grand Seiko Reveals the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Reveals Mar 30, 2022

Grand Seiko Reveals the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

Unveiled in 2020, the Grand Seiko T0 Constant-Force Tourbillon was a surprisingly complicated movement from a watchmaker that has historically focused on no-nonsense, everyday watches. In interview with us last year, Seiko chief executive Akio Naito promised not to “keep people waiting for too long” and he has kept to his promise. Just two years after the T0 concept was revealed, its commercially available counterpart  version has arrived in the form of the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003. With a case that’s a mix of platinum and titanium, the SLGT003 has a movement that’s slightly different from the T0 concept. Its cal. 9ST1 retains the all-important constant-force mechanism integrated into the tourbillon cage, though the movement overall has been trimmed down slightly in both size and artistic expression – though it still has an aesthetic that is extreme by Grand Seiko standards. Initial thoughts The SLGT003 is a lot of watch: a skeletonised movement combining a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism accompanied by a dead-beat seconds. And it also has twin barrels and a power reserve indicator. The SLGT003 is intriguing and impressive is to say the least. The amalgamation of several complications perfectly showcase the brand’s newfound prowess in complicated watchmaking, elevating the brand to another level entirely, one comparable with independent watchmakers. And it also marks a milestone for a watchmaker from Asia. But the design is over th...

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Pro SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Pro

Tudor finally introduces a more compact GMT watch with the Black Bay Pro, which is 39 mm and equipped with a fixed bezel. With slightly retro styling, the Black Bay Pro nonetheless has all the features that characterise Tudor, including a proprietary movement with a silicon hairspring as well as the newly-developed T-Fit micro-adjustment clasp. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Pro is what I have been hoping for, a more compact Tudor GMT. It has a 39 mm case just like the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, the perfect size in my estimation. And it has a true GMT function thanks to the MT5652 inside. It also sports a useful upgrade: the T-Fit clasp that allows for micro-adjustment on the fly, giving this a feature usually found on pricier watches. The aesthetic certainly beings to mind the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, which is a good thing (and it was probably designed with a knowing wink). Arguably the only downside is the case thickness. At 14.6 mm high the watch is thick, though not excessively so. It does not feel ungainly on the wrist, although the flat, vertical case sides do accentuate the height. Another only potential downside is the fixed bezel, which means the watch cannot track the third time zone that’s possible on the standard GMT. It’s not a dealbreaker for me since the third time zone functionality is something I never use on a GMT watch. Still, the Black Bay Pro is an impressive value proposition all things considered, and certainly one of the best buys of the fair. F...