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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Conor McGregor’s new Patek Philippe with an Irish twist is the green-dialled platinum PP of dreams Time+Tide
Patek Philippe May 8, 2020

Conor McGregor’s new Patek Philippe with an Irish twist is the green-dialled platinum PP of dreams

Irish-born mixed martial artist and boxer Conor McGregor is known for his time spent in the Ultimate Fighting Championship (UFC), where he was the featherweight and lightweight champion. He also fought boxer Floyd Mayweather Jr, which drew 4.3 million pay per viewers, the second most in history. During these uncertain times due to the COVID-19 pandemic, … ContinuedThe post Conor McGregor’s new Patek Philippe with an Irish twist is the green-dialled platinum PP of dreams appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light, one of the most curious sapphire crystal-cased watches yet Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light one May 7, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light, one of the most curious sapphire crystal-cased watches yet

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato was among the vanguard of the first luxury sports watches when it was released in 1975. But it hasn’t stayed in the past, with the constantly evolving new materials and technologies used by the brand in this collection bringing it convincingly into 2020 (with materials such as the electric-looking Carbon Glass, which … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light, one of the most curious sapphire crystal-cased watches yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 26, 2020

INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow

A. Lange & Söhne don’t always do things by the book. The year is 2019. The demand for steel luxury sports watches is at an all-time high. And along comes the brand’s brand new Odysseus model. The polarising design (with naysayers focusing on the thicc steel bracelet as a flaw) took the established trope of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC’s 2020 collection is a vulgar display of design purity and power Time+Tide
IWC s 2020 collection Apr 26, 2020

IWC’s 2020 collection is a vulgar display of design purity and power

Credit where credit is due. There may well be global turmoil the likes of which we’ve never seen before, but IWC has taken all in their stride and released a brace of new watches in 2020 that are set to stun. Though quietly, and with the kind of confidence that doesn’t require theatrics. It is, … ContinuedThe post IWC’s 2020 collection is a vulgar display of design purity and power appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

All That’s New at Watches & Wonders 2020 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Égérie collection Les Cabinotiers Apr 24, 2020

All That’s New at Watches & Wonders 2020

The virtual doors of Watches & Wonders 2020 are now open – here’s an overview of all notable new releases from the exhibiting brands. This page will be updated as additional watches are launched in the coming months, so bookmark this. A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Datomatic in white gold Zeitwerk Minute Repeater in white gold Cartier Cartier Privé Tank Asymétrique Maillon de Cartier Pasha de Cartier Santos-Dumont XL Santos-Dumont Limited Editions Santos de Cartier ADLC Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 Portugieser Chronograph 3716 Portugieser Monopusher Chronograph Edition “Laureus Sport for Good” Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Collection Master Control Memovox and Master Control Memovox Timer Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100 Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Panerai Luminor Marina Carbotech PAM01661 Luminor Marina Titanio DMLS PAM01117 Luminor Marina Fibratech PAM01663 Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT PAM01108 Parmigiani Toric Tourbillon Red Gold Slate Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Vacheron Constantin Égérie collection Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph “Tempo” Les Cabinotiers Astronomical Grand Complication “Ode to Music” Les Cabinotiers “The Singing Birds” Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph  

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Apr 24, 2020

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42

Now 15 years old, the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar was almost always a 44.2 mm watch powered by a 7-day automatic movement (though IWC installed the same movement in the smaller, 42.3 mm ref. 5022 for several years). For Watches & Wonders 2020, IWC debuts the all-new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 that’s simpler and far more affordable. Instead of the long-standing 7-day calibre, the Perpetual Calendar 42 is powered by a simpler but nevertheless robust movement with a more conventional 60-hour power reserve. The new calibre is also thinner, resulting in a case just 13.8 mm high, versus 14. 9 mm before. And as the model name implies, the Perpetual Calendar 42 has a 42.4 mm case, which is available in pink gold, or stainless steel – a first for the regular collection. Until now, with the exception of a 2014 limited edition, IWC has only ever offered the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar with a gold or platinum case. All of that means making the perpetual calendar is significantly more affordable – the steel version costs half of the 7-day model in 18k gold. An unusual perpetual While the dial retains the traditional perpetual calendar configuration with three sub-dials for the calendar – making it cleaner and more legible the the 7-day version – it also includes a central seconds hand, which is extremely uncommon on a perpetual calendar watch. Functionally, the perpetual calendar is similar but simplified as compared to the 7-day iteration. As with all IWC...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Les Cabinotiers “The Singing Birds” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Les Cabinotiers “The Apr 24, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Les Cabinotiers “The Singing Birds”

Continuing with the musical theme that begun last year with Les Cabinotiers ‘”La Musique Du Temps”, an assortment of one-off, chiming watches, Vacheron Constantin unveils Les Cabinotiers “The Singing Birds” at Watches & Wonders 2020, the first time-only watches of the line that showcase the brand’s dexterity in traditional decorative crafts. The “Singing Birds” watches interpret the overmatching musical motif artistically with songbirds, rather than literally with striking watches as most of last year’s watches were. Available in four different unique executions, the watches feature dials that combine an engine-turned time display with champleve enamelling, each depicting a different bird – hummingbird, blue jay, blue tit, and robin. From left: Blue Tit, Blue Jay, Hummingbird, and Robin But the watch is more than brightly-feathered aesthetics, it also features a wandering hours display. Though the complication originated 17th century clocks, it remains relatively rare, with the most famous modern-day examples being the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel and Urwerk. Vacheron Constantin has only ever utilised the wandering hours on limited edition or unique timepieces, like the Métiers d’Art Savoirs Enluminés of 2016. The current hour is displayed across an arc marked out in minutes – as the hour “wanders”, it simultaneously indicates the minutes. It takes an hour for the number to cover the arc, and as it disappears on the far right, the next hour...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We are dropping a feature length virtual watch fair video on YouTube. Dress code: clothing optional   Time+Tide
Apr 23, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We are dropping a feature length virtual watch fair video on YouTube. Dress code: clothing optional  

We don’t want to cry poor, because boy have we had some good times over the years. But the hidden thing about watch fairs is that they’re utterly exhausting. Especially when you travel for over 24 hours to get to them. Somehow, I have managed to re-create this effect without leaving Australia. Because, wait for it, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We are dropping a feature length virtual watch fair video on YouTube. Dress code: clothing optional   appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pandemic Truths – Rexhep Rexhepi SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Apr 23, 2020

Pandemic Truths – Rexhep Rexhepi

Amongst independent watchmakers, Rexhep Rexhepi has found swift and significant success since he founded Akrivia, now one of the hottest niche brands. After his Chronomètre Contemporain took the prize of best men’s watch at the 2018 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), collectors have been eagerly anticipating his next creation – which is on track despite the pandemic-induced disruptions. How has the COVID-19 coronavirus affected Akrivia? Now still crafting watches in his workshop at the heart of Geneva’s Old Town, Rexhep answers. Rexhep, still at the workshop in Geneva’s Old Town. Photo – Rexhep Rexhepi What impact has the crisis has on your business? The first impact was human. A month ago, when social distancing was first implemented in Switzerland, the atmosphere was grim. I could feel employees’ morale was affected; their motivation was low. I offered them the choice to stay home with partial unemployment or keep coming to the atelier, while respecting all health and hygiene measures, of course. Most of them opted to keep working, so we are still open at the moment and working almost normally. Even my partner [Jean-Pierre] Hagmann is back now. Production-wise, we feared for some of our subcontractors, like the [specialist that does] rhodium plating for example, but they are also working, even if only part time, for one week out of every two. But since we have [vertically] integrated a lot of our production, like making our own cases, and we have...

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Richard Mille Apr 20, 2020

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon

Since Louis Vuitton acquired complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT) in 2012, the trunk maker has made impressive strides in its haute horlogerie. The newly launched Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève encapsulates Louis Vuitton’s complicated watchmaking – confident, modern styling combined with a first-rate calibre. Granted, the Tambour Curve is pricey – US$250,000 pricey – but it is clearly catered for a specific consumer. That buyer wants an ultra-high end, contemporary, and slightly sporty watch, the type of watch found in the segment dominated by Richard Mille and Hublot. But Louis Vuitton has executed the Tambour Curve extremely well, creating an appealing – and importantly, cohesively designed – wristwatch that is more than just looks. The LV 108 movement inside was developed and made by LFDT, which is led by veteran watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, both of whom I hold in very high regard. Louis Vuitton long-term strategy in developing its watchmaking – essentially do it well and expensively – is demonstrated by the quality of the Tambour Curve. The brand could have gotten away with building a so-so watch, just because it is Louis Vuitton. But it didn’t, and the Tambour Curve exhibits a notable level of attention to detail in styling and craft. CarboStratum The Tambour Curve is a big watch with a streamlined, rounded form that is almost organic. Not only is the case round, its flanks are concave, whil...

HANDS-ON: The Monta Oceanking, a watch price-positioned between Seiko and Tudor Time+Tide
Tudor When Apr 16, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Monta Oceanking, a watch price-positioned between Seiko and Tudor

When the Monta Oceanking arrived one day, I didn’t quite know what to make of it. Luckily, I was able to secure a phone interview with Justin Kraudel, the president of Monta. Mr Kraudel is as enthusiastic about watches as any of us (perhaps more so) and was eager to school me on Monta in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Monta Oceanking, a watch price-positioned between Seiko and Tudor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nick’s lockdown YouTube playlist feat. Russell Crowe, a very special Rolex and eagles at altitude Time+Tide
Rolex Apr 13, 2020

Nick’s lockdown YouTube playlist feat. Russell Crowe, a very special Rolex and eagles at altitude

Recently, Andrew put together his greatest hits from the Time+Tide Watches YouTube channel, chronicling some of the finest pieces of information and entertainment-rich video we have ever produced. It wouldn’t be fair to let him have all the fun, though, so I put together my own list, much of which I enjoyed for years before … ContinuedThe post Nick’s lockdown YouTube playlist feat. Russell Crowe, a very special Rolex and eagles at altitude appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The bar for car and watchmaker collabs is now very high, and Zenith’s Defy El Primero 21 Land Rover smashes it Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux lacked imagination would be Apr 9, 2020

The bar for car and watchmaker collabs is now very high, and Zenith’s Defy El Primero 21 Land Rover smashes it

Let’s not mince words. Watch and carmakers have been jointly responsible for some very, very lazy collaborative timepieces. I won’t pick on too many examples … but to say that some of Ferrari’s early efforts with Panerai and Girard-Perregaux lacked imagination would be a gross understatement. The Prancing Horse turned it around though – Maranello’s latest … ContinuedThe post The bar for car and watchmaker collabs is now very high, and Zenith’s Defy El Primero 21 Land Rover smashes it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Zenith El Primero A384 Revival with “Ladder” Bracelet SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero A384 Revival Apr 8, 2020

Hands-On: Zenith El Primero A384 Revival with “Ladder” Bracelet

There are few brands that can make modern-day reissues of historical watches powered by the same movement as the vintage original. Zenith, as it happens, is easily able to, thanks to its long-lived El Primero. The chronograph movement celebrated its 50th anniversary last year with several commemorative A386 limited editions, including a one-off in platinum for charity, but most were in gold and thus pricey. On the other hand, the El Primero A384 Revival is a faithful remake – including a “ladder” bracelet – that’s part of the regular collection, and also affordable. Since 1969 While the A386 is the iconic El Primero chronograph – and today the most valuable – the A384 was introduced at the same time (along with the A385), making it part of the debut range of El Primero watches. One reason the A384 doesn’t quite have the stature of the round and relatively-ageless A386 is also one of its most distinctive qualities: a tonneau- or cushion-shaped case that instantly identifies it as a watch of the late 1960s and 1970s. The easily recognisable design has made the tonneau-shaped A384 a popular base for a variety of limited editions, including one based on a fictitious watch featured in the Japanese manga Lupin III. Romain Marietta, the brand’s chief of products, also indicated during a recent conversation that the A384 will continue to be the base for limited editions, while the A386 will not be reproduced again except in exceptional instances since it is syno...

Main Ridge Estate: Great Value In Small Quantities From Australia’s Mornington Peninsula Quill & Pad
Apr 6, 2020

Main Ridge Estate: Great Value In Small Quantities From Australia’s Mornington Peninsula

Main Ridge Estate has been considered as producing not only some of the Mornington Peninsula’s best Pinot and Chardonnay, but some of the best anywhere in Australia, pretty much from day one. Small quantities of its wines do manage to make their way to international markets, but you’ll need to search for them. Ken Gargett explains why you might want to do just that.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Vantablack Black Hands SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Apr 2, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Vantablack Black Hands

On April Fools’ Day last year, H. Moser & Cie. published a doctored image of a watch with an all-black dial missing hands, a riff on its watches with blacker-than-black dials. The hoax watch turned into something of a hit, which has led to the latest trio of limited editions, the Vantablack Black Hands – which will also be available online directly from the brand. All three watches – ranging from a stainless-steel base model to a limited-edition tourbillon – feature dials coated in Vantablack, a high-tech coating that absorbs almost all incident light – making it extremely and almost absolutely black – matched with black-coated hands. Because the coating on the hands is more of a dark grey, and also glossy, the hands do actually stand apart from the dial, appearing to be suspended in nothing because the dial is so black. The Endeavour Tourbillon with the reflection being on the crystal, rather than the dial Venturer Vantablack Black Hands XL in steel Invented by a spin-off from the University of Surrey in the United Kingdom, Vantablack is made up of carbon nanotubes arranged vertically, like a surface covered in really fine fur. The carbon nanotubes absorb 99.965% of incident light, resulting in a surface that resembles a deep, dark hole, which is an quirky and strangely appealing finish for a watch dial. Even though other substances are even blacker than Vantablack – with the record held by an MIT invention from 2019 –  Vantablack is the best-known...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB149J Time+Tide
Seiko SPB149J Dive watches have Apr 1, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB149J

Dive watches have come a very long way in 55 years. It was 1965 when Seiko first dipped their toe into the waters of serious dive watches when they released the Seiko automatic 6217 62MAS, water resistant to 150m. Featuring large luminous hands and hour markers, a rotating dive 60-minute bezel and a rubber strap, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB149J appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: A gifting fail gave Alex his TAG Heuer and, a little down the track, a wife  Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Mar 31, 2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: A gifting fail gave Alex his TAG Heuer and, a little down the track, a wife 

I expect we’ve all been there. A special occasion rolls around - Valentine’s Day, Christmas - and you buy your partner a gift. He or she does the same for you. And, shock horror. They ain’t equitable. They ain’t even close. This sets the scene for episode two of the second series of Every Watch Tells A … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: A gifting fail gave Alex his TAG Heuer and, a little down the track, a wife  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bored? Enjoy the power and the passion of Omega Museum Director Petros Protopapas in this incredible video from our vault Time+Tide
Omega Museum Director Petros Protopapas Mar 31, 2020

Bored? Enjoy the power and the passion of Omega Museum Director Petros Protopapas in this incredible video from our vault

There are many talented and passionate people in the watch industry. People whose daily work for their brand goes far beyond a job. Too many to mention. Watches, after all, attract and retain a certain type of person. And if you don’t love watches, to your very core, the daily task of singly focusing on … ContinuedThe post Bored? Enjoy the power and the passion of Omega Museum Director Petros Protopapas in this incredible video from our vault appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Introducing a new weekly series starring the world’s best microbrands, kicking off with William Wood Watches! Time+Tide
Mar 29, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Introducing a new weekly series starring the world’s best microbrands, kicking off with William Wood Watches!

I don’t know how many times I’ve introduced a new segment, column or series on Time+Tide over the last six years. But I’d be prepared to bet that at least half the time, I’ve opened the post about it with these words: “Sorry, this took a long while to get to you. Good things take … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Introducing a new weekly series starring the world’s best microbrands, kicking off with William Wood Watches! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.