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Louis Vuitton Brings the Tambour Spin Time Back as a Permanent Piece

The rotating-cube hour display that debuted in 2009 is no longer a limited run. It's here to stay.

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Zenith Sets Sights on Higher Ground with Layoffs SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s ascent into fine Yesterday

Zenith Sets Sights on Higher Ground with Layoffs

After several years in the red and challenging market conditions predicted, Zenith is seeking higher ground by focusing on high-end watchmaking, eliminating about 200 jobs in the process. As reported by Swiss newspaper Le Temps, chief executive Benoit de Clerk broke the news to employees on Thursday, citing the strong Franc, US tariffs, and weak demand from the Middle East and Asia. Zenith’s pivot was foreshadowed by the excellent GFJ line launched last year, and comes in the wake of Jean Arnault taking charge of the LVMH’s watch brands, namely Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Hublot, after having engineered Louis Vuitton’s ascent into fine watchmaking. The middle market, which Zenith flees, is particularly brutal – expensive to play in and competitive. Zenith is not the only one to abandon it, Mr de Clerk also referenced the closure of Montblanc’s Le Locle factory, as that brand too shifts focus upmarket. Zenith’s greatest strengths, its mature, capable manufacturing base and wide distribution, are oversized for the brand’s production volume. Unable to feed this beast or put it to work, Zenith will be cutting about a hundred jobs, roughly half of its workforce, in Le Locle, and a further hundred in retail and distribution. In 2024, LVMH announced plans to grow Zenith’s Le Locle manufacture to supply other group brands with movements. Hublot had been using Zenith movements for a decade already, and LVMH envisioned an entire catalog of Zenith-made “in-house” move...

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Louis Vuitton’s 2 days ago

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic

Louis Vuitton’s second instalment of its 1980s revival model is the Monterey Ceramic. Styled like its predecessor – both share a similar inspiration – the new Monterey is simpler in execution and consequently more accessible, if not quite affordable. Instead of 18k gold, the case is now ceramic, in either black or green, with a steel case back. That’s matched with a white lacquer dial that replaces the fired enamel of the gold model. A regular production model, the Monterey Ceramic nonetheless retains the proprietary movement from La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) that is a good example of high-quality industrial-haute horlogerie. Initial thoughts The original Monterey, or more accurately, montre, which is French for “watch”, was a distinctive and surprisingly timeless design by Italian architect Gae Aulenti. But it was not exactly a high-end watch. Today’s recreation, in contrast, is just that. While last year’s Monterey in 18k gold was pricey, the new Monterey dials back on the fancy materials, which reduces the retail price by about half. Considering the high-end Geneva-made calibre inside, this makes the Monterey competitive with traditional watchmakers. The look of the Monterey, however, is not traditional. The style was unorthodox when Aulenti penned it in 1988, and continues to be so now. The unusual case construction gives it a bulbous appearance. Though the case is only 11 mm high, it looks and feels taller, but that is arguably part of the charm. The Mon...

Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic Fratello
Louis Vuitton Monterey 6 days ago

Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic

Names of Swiss watch brands and models can be tricky to pronounce, especially the French ones. Does the name Jay-Jay Le Coot ring a bell? I will let you figure it out and bring up another name. It’s now an official name, but it stems from the trouble some had in pronouncing the original. In […] Visit Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic to read the full article.

Introducing: The Louis Vuitton Monterey In Ceramic Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Monterey Sep 28, 2026

Introducing: The Louis Vuitton Monterey In Ceramic

What We Know The 2025 revival of the Louis Vuitton Monterey was a curious moment for the brand. Certainly influenced by a recent surge in popularity for the original LV I and LV II watches among celebrities and vintage collectors, it was a small(ish) 188-piece run (priced at $60,000) meant to show the brand was paying attention to what was happening around it. While the original LV I was a quartz watch with several complications, the brand simplified the aesthetics with the revival—gone were the complications and the distinctive, busy dial with all of its markings, as the new Monterey was time-only with a mechanical movement. But that Monterey also demonstrated the craft of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, introducing a simpler dial in grand feu enamel. While it may have seemed like a small blip in the brand's overall plans, Louis Vuitton has more to say about the pebble-like designs from 1988 by Italian architect Gae Aulenti—the Monterey Ceramic, a duo of watches that focuses on the smaller LV II. Now, the Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramics are not part of a limited edition and officially enter the brand's permanent collection. The cases are faithful to the original, preserving the model's smaller 37mm case size and both original ceramic colors: green and black. The polished, pebble-shaped case is slightly thicker at 11mm, however, because it houses the automatic LFTMA01.02 caliber rather than the original quartz movement. Like last year's Monterey, the Monterey Ceram...

First Look - Louis Vuitton Unveils the Monterey in Green or Black Ceramic, Tribute to the LV II of 1988 Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Unveils Sep 28, 2026

First Look - Louis Vuitton Unveils the Monterey in Green or Black Ceramic, Tribute to the LV II of 1988

Contrary to popular belief, Louis Vuitton’s first watch was not the 2002 Tambour but the earlier Montre LV I and LV II, launched in 1988. Designed by Italian architect Gae Aulenti and produced in collaboration with IWC, these quartz-powered pieces reflected the brand’s travel-oriented identity. With their lug-free, pebble-shaped cases and crowns at 12 o’clock, […]

In Conversation with Jeff Koons on His New Collaboration with Hublot Worn & Wound
Louis Vuitton Foundation Sep 17, 2026

In Conversation with Jeff Koons on His New Collaboration with Hublot

Watch collaborations have saturated the market in recent years, but when I heard Jeff Koons was getting involved in designing a model, my ears perked up. His Celebration series featuring his Balloon Dog sculptures makes up one of the most memorable works of art to emerge in my lifetime as a child of the 90s. I wasn’t surprised this would be the source of inspiration for the watches he’d create.  The artist and self-proclaimed weirdo in me has always appreciated the daring and disruptive nature of Koons’ creations, but to the masses, they’ve been polarizing. It was clear that his approach to design wouldn’t be the right fit for just any watch brand – it would need to be with a maker who was equally daring, disruptive, and perhaps even polarizing itself. Enter Hublot, who has long received scrutiny for its audacious models that buck Swiss tradition. “I remember maybe about 15 years ago, I was at an event for the Louis Vuitton Foundation, and I had a conversation with Bernard Arnault,” Koons recalls. “He said, ‘you know, Jeff, you should make a watch,’ but we never did. Years later, our sons became friends, and Frederic said to my son Sean, ‘your dad should make a watch – Hublot has a lot of interest in partnering with him.’ And I was really excited about this idea of working with new materials and working with time.” All that said, the goal has never been a shock factor – it’s about authenticity – Koons’ identity as an artist and Hublo...

Introducing: Five New Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time References Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time References Sep 9, 2026

Introducing: Five New Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time References

What We Know In January of 2025, I covered Louis Vuitton's major evolution of its distinctive Spin Time series, debuting as the Tambour Taiko Spin Time series in a set of six limited-edition watches, all set in a single "Dolphin Grey" color scheme across several different takes on the complication, from the classic jumping hour to a flying tourbillon and even a world timer. It introduced a cohesive set of new in-house movements to power the complications and marked the first time every element of the Spin Time was produced in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton—cases, dials, movements, and more. It's been a while since we've heard anything about this collection, but this week Louis Vuitton introduced a new set of Tambour Spin Time watches into the brand's permanent collection. The main update to the permanent collection is a few fresh coats of paint, but the set of five references covers quite a bit of the Spin Time concept.  All of these are set in the latest generation of Japanese drum-inspired Tambour case from the brand, with a sloped midcase complemented by screwed-in, sculpted lugs with laser-frosted interiors. On top is a sloped, predominantly sandblasted bezel ring with "LOUIS VUITTON" adorned on its periphery. All five of these new references are set in precious metal cases. Two 39.5mm Tambour Spin Times offer two very different wearing experiences (and price points). The simplest reference comes in the form of the Tambour Spin Time Green in White Gold,...

Louis Vuitton Expands The Tambour Spin Time With Five Colorful Permanent-Collection Models Fratello
Louis Vuitton Expands Sep 9, 2026

Louis Vuitton Expands The Tambour Spin Time With Five Colorful Permanent-Collection Models

Louis Vuitton is expanding the Tambour Spin Time collection with five new references, moving the latest generation of its distinctive jump-hour watch from limited editions into the permanent collection. The new watches retain the architecture introduced in 2025 but bring new colors, materials, gemstones, and a more varied set of executions. So, before your head […] Visit Louis Vuitton Expands The Tambour Spin Time With Five Colorful Permanent-Collection Models to read the full article.

First Look - The Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Comes Back as a Permanent Collection (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Comes Sep 8, 2026

First Look - The Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Comes Back as a Permanent Collection (Incl. Video)

First released in 2009 as part of the emblematic Tambour collection, the Spin Time is, without a doubt, one of the most recognisable creations of Louis Vuitton horlogerie. The idea, a dynamic display using 12 rotating cubes as a modern interpretation of the classic jumping hour complication, was inspired by the overhead flap panels that […]

The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns Having Sep 3, 2026

The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns

Having remade – and refined – its first-ever wristwatch, Louis Vuitton now does the same for the second. The Monterey Ceramic is a reimagining of the LV II of 1988, preserving the Gae Aulenti-designed case and dial but in modern, high-end materials and execution. As with the earlier Monterey in 18k gold, the new model in ceramic does away with the quartz movement of the 1988 original and replaces it with an in-house automatic calibre. The case has been scaled up a little to accommodate the calibre, but retains the proportions and quirky form of the original. But unlike last year’s model, the Monterey Ceramic is regular production. Initial thoughts The Monterey Ceramic is basically a more affordable iteration of last year’s limited edition in 18k gold. It retains the same design, movement, but replaces gold with ceramic (and steel), and the fired enamel dial with a lacquered one. Even with these changes, the Monterey Ceramic is still a far more sophisticated watch than its 1988 inspiration. I like the styling of the 1988 originals, and the modern-day reissues both manage to capture the look and feel of the originals. The Monterey Ceramic in particular sticks to the case diameter of the original, albeit a little thicker, but sticks closely enough to the proportions of the LV II. The Monterey Ceramic is priced like a modern-day luxury watch, but it has the intrinsic features to justify the price. The Monterey Ceramic costs €19,000 before taxes, which is less than a ...

First Look - The New Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian Monochrome
Louis Vuitton s elite watchmaking atelier Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The New Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian

The Gérald Genta brand was officially revived as an independent stand-alone marque by Louis Vuitton’s elite watchmaking atelier, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), in 2023. With a focus on high-end complications in limited quantities, the spirit of legendary designer Gérald Genta (1931-2011) lives on. For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Gérald Genta releases a second iteration […]

First Look - The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Daniel Roth has steadily Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt

Since its revival in 2023 under the direction of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, Daniel Roth has steadily reconstructed the distinctive design language of its founder, and the Extra Plat is perhaps its purest expression. A modern interpretation of Daniel Roth’s early time-only watches, it features the characteristic double-ellipse case and a slim, manually […]

A Dashboard Clock Gives Birth to the Louis Vuitton x Singer Porsche 911 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Aug 17, 2026

A Dashboard Clock Gives Birth to the Louis Vuitton x Singer Porsche 911

A cult brand specialising in “restomod” Porsche 911s, specifically the 964, Singer Vehicle Design’s latest commission is pair reimagined by Louis Vuitton. The Porsche 911 Reimagined by Singer – Classic and – Classic Turbo are striking examples of engineering, artisanal craft, and luxury branding all rolled into one. The pair of 911s originated with an order for a mechanical dashboard clock for a prior Singer commission, which led the two brands to collaborate on this duo. Both cars are naturally fitted with a hand-wound, eight-day clock fitted into the dashboard, but which can be removed and transformed into a desk clock. And the Turbo also include an ivory ceramic Tambour wristwatch as a bonus. The dash clock inside the 911 Classic Initial thoughts Interestingly, this pair of 911s is more of a collaboration between Singer and Louis Vuitton’s watch division rather than the wider company. The dashboard clock request that gave birth to these two cars began with a Singer 911 parked outside a Louis Vuitton watch event several years ago. The two 911s underline the long established common denominations between cars and watches, ranging from fine engineering to a shared audience. Many have come before, from Porsche Design and IWC, Ferrari and Girard-Perregaux, to today’s McLaren and Richard Mille. The Singer 911s stand out for being one-offs – both are beautifully executed – and priced at a level that reflects the strength of the demand for ultra-high-end objec...

The Petrolhead Corner - Singer and Louis Vuitton Go To Extremes With Two Bespoke Porsche 911s Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Go Aug 15, 2026

The Petrolhead Corner - Singer and Louis Vuitton Go To Extremes With Two Bespoke Porsche 911s

Collaborations between watch companies and other industries come in all shapes and sizes, and extend well beyond the usual realms of fashion and art. We’ve seen pretty much anything we’d say, but every now and then, one comes along that surprises us, regardless of how natural the connection might be in hindsight. One such collaboration […]

Photo Report: The 2026 Silverstone British Grand Prix With TAG Heuer Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Aug 5, 2026

Photo Report: The 2026 Silverstone British Grand Prix With TAG Heuer

Walking down the pit lane towards the Red Bull garage, I get chatting to a guy, thanks to the watch on his wrist (it was a Monaco), who tells me about his love for F1 and how special it is to stand close enough to these machines that you can feel their engines through your chest. At one point, I asked him, "Which race haven't you been to yet that you're dying to attend?" "I'd love to get to Spa one day, but honestly? This is it. Silverstone is the home of it all. It's hard to beat this place." Over the past five years, F1 has undergone a revitalization I don't think any other sport can match. Fuelled by Netflix's Drive to Survive, a crop of drivers who've opened up more of themselves than any generation before them, and no shortage of on-track drama, the fan base for the sport hasn't just increased; it's evolved in ways that have changed who actually shows up at races. It's that diversified, culture-conscious crowd that TAG Heuer's return as Official Timekeeper is clearly aimed at. TAG Heuer has timed Oracle Red Bull Racing since 2016, through all four of Verstappen's titles, but in 2025 the brand's role in F1 became much bigger. TAG Heuer became the sport's Official Timekeeper as part of a huge move by LVMH across the entire paddock, a ten-year partnership that also brought Louis Vuitton and Moët & Chandon into Formula 1. Silverstone earns its place at the centre of that story more than any other stop on the calendar. It's one of only four circuits still on the grid that...

Introducing - The Impressive, Complex Louis Vuitton Escale en Alaska Pocket Watch Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Escale en Alaska Pocket Jul 21, 2026

Introducing - The Impressive, Complex Louis Vuitton Escale en Alaska Pocket Watch

Travel has always been at the heart of Louis Vuitton, and the Escales Autour du Monde collection, like all Escale watches, has a great poetic sound to it. The name, which translates as “Stopovers Around the World,” recalls Francisca Mattéoli’s celebrated book documenting Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s remarkable collection of hotel labels gathered during his travels; there’s […]