SJX Watches · Page 23

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Chanel watches Tiffany’s watch division Jan 22, 2025

Tiffany & Co. Watchmaking Kicks Off with Bird on a Flying Tourbillon

Having acquired Tiffany & Co. in 2020, LVMH set about remaking the storied American jeweller. That extended to Tiffany’s watch division, which now debuts the first flagship creation under new ownership, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon. Led since 2021 by Nicolas Beau, the former chief of Chanel watches, Tiffany’s watch division turned to independent watchmaker Artime for the movement of the new tourbillon. Set with some 4 carats of diamonds, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon features an off-centre dial layout with a flying tourbillon at seven o’clock, along with a turquoise marquetry dial bearing a pair of diamond-set birds in flight. Initial thoughts One of Tiffany’s best-known jewellery designs, the Bird on the Rock has been a fixture in the brand’s catalogue for decades. A horological twist on the concept, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon is clearly part of an effort to position the design as a versatile icon that is Tiffany’s equivalent of the Serpenti. It’s a little bigger and thicker than the traditional ladies’ watch, though reminiscent of the MB&F; LM Flying T. The reason for the size is the AFT24T01 movement inside, which is more interesting than usual as it was developed for Tiffany & Co. by Artime, a recently established independent brand. The AFT24T01 has a high quality execution with appealing details, but it’s related to Artime’s own calibre for a men’s skeleton tourbillon, explaining its large size. As an opening effort, the Bird on a Flying...

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Hublot Scales Down Jan 21, 2025

Hublot Scales Down the Meca-10 to 42 mm

Hublot’s latest release, the Big Bang Meca-10 10-Day Power Reserve, may at first glance resemble the chunky original, but reveals a host of significant enhancements - most notably, a more wearable 42 mm case. The new Meca-10 retains the Meccano-inspired skeletonised movement finished to colour-match the case. The calibre boasts a 10-day power reserve indicated by an uncommon crémaillère system visible at 12 o’clock made up of a linear gear engaging a circular gear. Initial thoughts Long one of the more interesting but accessible watches in Hublot’s lineup, the Meca-10 was previously available only in a 45 mm case that rendered it less-than-wearable. Hublot has refined the Meca-10 by reducing the case diameter by substantial 3 mm, making it positively compact relative to its predecessor. Not only is the case smaller, it is also thinner at just 13.9 mm high, which is slim for a watch of this type. But the signature movement architecture has been retained, resulting in a watch that has the technical appeal of the original, but one more versatile and comfortable. While it may initially appear to be yet another skeletonised Hublot, of which there are many, the Meca-10 boasts an interesting manual-winding movement with an impressive 10-day power reserve and a distinctive movement architecture. Amongst Hublot’s more exotic watches, the Meca-10 stands out as being relatively affordable, with the key word being relatively. It starts at US$23,000 in titanium (and rises ...

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TAG Heuer s Stand-Out Carrera Gains Jan 21, 2025

TAG Heuer’s Stand-Out Carrera Gains a Speedometer-Style Dial

Arguably TAG Heuer’s most interesting affordable chronograph, the Carrera Chronosprint features a unique variable-speed chronograph seconds that accelerates for the first 15 seconds of every elapsed minute, before slowing to complete the remainder of the 60 seconds. Now TAG Heuer has introduced a new pair of variants in partnership with Porsche: the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye that’s available in either steel or yellow gold. The new model sports a black dial modelled on the dash of the 1965 Porsche 911 that bears the traditional “Carrera” emblem at 12 o’clock. Initial thoughts The Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye demonstrates TAG Heuer’s strength in affordable chronographs. In technical terms, it’s the brand’s best chronograph in this price segment. The case is little large for my preference, but that’s typical of the current Carrera due to the thickness of the TH20 in-house movement. Although I am typically indifferent to brand partnerships - they are more often than not simply for marketing buzz - this particular collaboration makes sense given TAG Heuer’s historical presence in motorsports, which it has just returned to starting with the 2025 Formula 1 season. Retailing at US$10,250 in steel and US$24,600 in yellow gold, the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye is pricier than the base-model Carrera “Glassbox” by a margin of about 50%. While that might seem a lot, the uncharge US$3,000 or so is worth it given the TH20-08 “...

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Gerald Genta Jan 21, 2025

Gérald Genta Introduces the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal

Gérald Genta distinctive, punkish “urchin” wristwatch gains a striking new look with the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal. Each of the 137 studs on the case carries a fire opal, while the dial is in orange carnelian that echoes the gemstones’ hue. Mined from Mexico’s volcanic regions, fire opals stones derive their characteristic yellow, orange, or red pigmentation from water trapped in cooling lava. Initial thoughts Although the Gérald Genta brand was revived in 2023, well after the iconic designer’s passing in 2011, the brand has stuck closely to his original vision and style. The modern-day Oursin is a faithful remake of the 1994 original, a little larger in size but retaining all of the original’s quirky details, including the facetted crystal. Unlike the fairly muted models unveiled last year, the new Oursin is bright and bold. While it incorporates gemstones and colours that found on the original (which was also fairly muted), the orange hue feels perfectly appropriate for the design. It is an apt evolution of the original, and the late Genta would have approved. Fire opals While the new Oursin differs from Genta’s original with its fire opals and carnelian, the core design elements remain faithful to his blueprint. Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the case measures 36.5 mm in diameter and 9.64 mm in thickness, making it slightly larger than the original. The case is studded with 137 fire opals, each individually secured with 18k yellow gold pins. An orange...

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Audemars Piguet Jan 21, 2025

Zenith Skeletonises the Defy Skyline Chronograph

Zenith’s latest release is an evolutionary take on its popular sports chronograph with an integrated bracelet: the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton builds upon the original version by open working the dial and main plate of the El Primero calibre. The dial is skeletonised to form a star, Zenith’s longtime emblem and a recurring theme of its skeleton watches. Apart from the open-worked dial, the new Defy remains essentially unchanged from the standard model, keeping the same 42 mm octagonal case topped by a 12-sided bezel. Initial thoughts Zenith’s El Primero was a milestone as one of the first automatic chronograph calibres. The new Defy is equipped with the second-generation El Primero, the cal. 3600, which is one of the biggest strengths of the watch. Notably, the movement has a lightning chronograph seconds completing a full revolution every 10 seconds, allowing the chronograph to measure up to 1/10th of a second (if your fingers work the pushers fast enough). That said, the watch does feel a little derivative in terms of design. While the look is not particularly creative or original, it nonetheless presents a visually striking aesthetic. The combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet are done well. Compared to other watches it resembles (from the likes of Audemars Piguet and Hublot), the Defy is arguably better value. Priced at US$15,500, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton is one of Zenith’s pricier offerings, but arguably...

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Louis Vuitton Surprises Jan 21, 2025

Louis Vuitton Surprises with Tambour Convergence

Louis Vuitton starts 2025 with a surprise, the Tambour Convergence. Modelled on traditional “digital” pocket watches, the Convergence indicates the time with discs visible in a pair of small windows at the top of the face. The unusual design, coupled with the compact, 37 mm case gives the Convergence an elegant, vintage-inspired aesthetic atypical of Louis Vuitton. Equally notable is the newly-developed in-house calibre inside, the LFT MA01.01. The movement is of a family of movements that will underpin Louis Vuitton’s timepieces going forward; variants of the movement are also found in the new Tambour Taiko Spin Time. Initial thoughts The Convergence is unexpected because it isn’t typical of Louis Vuitton. The vintage-inspired styling and proportions are almost antithesis of the brand’s conventional look, which was historically colourful and modern. Even though such territory is relatively new to Louis Vuitton, the Convergence is executed well. The design has intrinsic appeal, and shows off good proportions and details. The Convergence demonstrates the refined style of the redesigned Tambour case, which barely resembles the chunky original that was often thick and paired with narrow lugs. While I myself liked the quirk look of the original Tambour, the revamped model is undoubtedly more elegant and consequently will have a wider appeal. The Convergence debuts in pink gold The Convergence does well in almost all respects – fit, finish, design, and dimensions ...

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Blancpain Jan 21, 2025

Daniel Roth Unveils Extra Plat Souscription

Continuing with its revival, Daniel Roth debuts its second modern-day timepiece, the Extra Plat Souscription. Hewing to the formula established by the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription stays faithful to the 1990s original in size and style, but is equipped with an all-new calibre developed from the ground up. Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription debuts as a 20-piece limited edition in 18k yellow gold, matched with a guilloche dial in solid 18k yellow gold. Initial thoughts As with the Tourbillon before it, the Extra Plat Souscription looks and feels like the original at a distance, but reveals a higher degree of refinement up close. This is especially evident on the dial that is covered in finely grained guilloche, done with a hand-operated straight-line engine. In fact, the Extra Plat is arguably more sophisticated than the equivalent original, more so than the Tourbillon. The 1990s-era model was fitted with Frederic Piguet movements, either manual-wind or automatic depending on the variant, which were fine calibres but relatively industrial and widely used by higher-end brands like Blancpain. The DR002 in the new Extra Plat, on the other hand, is a new construction with the refinements expected in a watch of this calibre (and price). It’s shame that the movement is concealed behind a solid back, but that will become an open back with the subsequent, regular-production version. While the new Extra Plat is a beautiful homage th...

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Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 Jan 21, 2025

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2

In a fortuitous turn of events, Mark Zuckerberg was spotted with the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 just a week ago – just in time for the debut of the Hand Made 2. Unlike its predecessor that was equipped with a tourbillon, the Hand Made 2 is “merely” a three-hander with a power reserve indicator, presented in a more compact case that’s just under 41 mm. But like the first model, the Hand Made 2 is mostly made with traditional, hand-operated tools – specifically, 96% of the watch is made this way, an endeavour that requires 5,000 hours of work according to Greubel Forsey. (NB: The watch pictured is a prototype and is not perfectly clean.) Initial thoughts The Hand Made 2 is essentially the Hand Made 1 scaled down in every respect – dimensions, complexity, and price – except for the manual production methods and fine finishing, which remain impressive and outstanding. Even at arm’s length the quality of the Hand Made 2 is obvious. Up close, it is evident all of the details have been properly taken care of. As it was with the Hand Made 1, the second edition is also impressive for what cannot be seen – tolerances and precision that are equivalent to Greubel Forsey’s serial-production watches made with automated equipment. Achieving that with manual equipment is impressive and no doubt explains a good deal of the price. Surprisingly, the Hand Made 2 looks more complicated than its predecessor, despite doing away with the tourbillon. That’s because the archit...

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Breitling B01 but Jan 20, 2025

Tudor’s Chrono Colours Continues with the Black Bay Flamingo Blue

Tudor surprised with the Black Bay Chrono Pink early last year, and it’s now done the same with the Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue”. Like last year’s pink chronograph, the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono, but with a coloured dial in a bright turquoise. And it will similarly be made in “limited” numbers, though is it not a limited edition. Initial thoughts Bright-c0loured dials used to be a novelty for Tudor, but now such “special editions” have become a regular part of the collection. It makes them a bit more predictable and thus less interesting, but they are still intrinsically appealing. Like its predecessors, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is fun and in typical Tudor fashion, excellent value for money. I liked the pink version enough that I bought one. The combination of a bright dial and “Jubilee” bracelet is a good one; it’s clearly a modern watch but many of the elements have a retro feel. But the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono so it is a little thick and chunky. Eventually Tudor will introduce a smaller in-house chronograph movement (the current MT5813 is based on the Breitling B01), but for now this has to do. Miami vibes According to Tudor, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is meant to evoke the “classic South Beach vibe”, a reference to the coastal Miami neighbourhood. The American inspiration is perhaps because the country is now the world’s strongest watch market. The brand goes on to exp...

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Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Jan 17, 2025

Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Purple

Breitling’s latest take on its signature aviator’s chronograph is the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Cortina Watch, a limited edition for the Singapore-based retailer. The 50-piece run retains the classic Navitimer design featuring the hallmark slide rule bezel, but with a striking dial in satiné translucid purple, essentially translucent lacquer. The purple dial is matched with red gold appliqués that include the Breitling emblem, contrasting against the dial’s vibrant hue. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest offering is one of many (maybe too many) dial variations within the Navitimer collection, such as the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions and the Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary”, but it’s distinctive for the vivid dial colour that is seldom used by Breitling. Admittedly, the colour is hardly traditional for a pilot’s watch, but it is appealing and refreshes the familiar Navitimer look. This edition is based on the 43 mm model, which some might find too big. The 41 mm Navitimer, which is also identical in size to the vintage original, is more wearable. The new Navitimer is priced at S$13,980 (equivalent to about US$10,000), which is comparable to the regular production version. Given the high-spec, in-house chronograph movement, the Navitimer B01 is reasonably priced. Even though the limited editions are arguably too numerous, this edition manages to stand out. Exquisite movement Dial colour aside, the Cortina edition is identical to the standar...

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Rolex working Jan 17, 2025

Visiting American Independent Keaton Myrick

The Oregon High Desert might seem like a strange place to find a watchmaker, but if you happen to stop in Bend, the region’s largest city with about 100,000 residents, you’ll have a chance of running into Keaton Myrick.  Inspired by the likes of George Daniels and Philippe Dufour, Mr Myrick produces largely handmade watches in small numbers for connoisseurs of independent watchmaking. Setting up shop this far from the robust supplier networks of Switzerland has proven challenging, but Mr Myrick’s story of overcoming these headwinds reveals a degree of resilience and independence that embodies the spirit of the American West. We’ve been following Mr Myrick’s career for more than a decade, profiling him in 2013 after he debuted his first watch at Baselworld 2012. Now delivering the final pieces of his 1 of 30 series, Mr Myrick has moved into a new, larger workshop and evolved many of his manufacturing processes, so we thought it was worth a visit to see what’s in store for the future of watchmaking in the Pacific Northwest. A later example from the ‘1 in 30’ series. Origins As you might have guessed, Bend, Oregon is not a hotbed for watchmaking. In Mr Myrick’s case, pursuing a career in watchmaking meant relocating across the country to study at the Lititz Watch Technicum (LWT) in Pennsylvania, where he became WOSTEP-certified and began his stint at Rolex, working in after-sales service and restoration. The founder at his bench. But it was not long before ...

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IWC Mark XX IWC’s latest Jan 16, 2025

Green Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Livery for the IWC Mark XX

IWC’s latest timepiece for its Formula 1 partner is the Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team. A no-frills, entry-level aviator’s watch with a lightweight titanium case, the new Mark XX is dressed in the same “Petronas green” livery as the F1 team’s chronograph introduced two years ago. As the official team watch for the 2025 F1 season, the Mark XX will be worn by every member of the Mercedes-AMG team, from mechanics to strategists, while also being to the public. Initial thoughts With its Petronas green dial and strap, the new Mark XX is well-suited as a team watch for the F1 team. It’s an appealing twist on the traditional pilot’s watch in black and white, which can be a little bit too formulaic. The matte, blasted titanium case further adds to the appeal as it is both lightweight and utilitarian in appearance. The bold colourway may be too bright for some, especially as an everyday watch, but for those wanted a more restrained look, IWC still has the base model Mark XX in low-key colours. Surprisingly, the Mark XX Mercedes-AMG isn’t that much more expensive than the base model. It’s approximately US$850 more expensive than the standard stainless steel version, making the new Mark XX a fairly good buy in comparison. Petronas green The new Mark XX adopts the same colourway and case material found on the Mercedes-AMG chronograph of 2022. It features a 40 mm case entirely in sandblasted titanium, giving it a matte finish with a sub...

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Omega Introduces Jan 15, 2025

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite

Diversity is arguably a strength – and a weakness – of the Speedmaster – and Omega is proving this with the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite. In contrast to the recent military-inspired Speedy, the latest model goes for exotic materials:  the dial is made of lunar meteorite finished in either grey or black, while the moon phase sports twin moons similarly fashioned from meteorite. The moon phase display is a double moon that depicts the age of the moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Completing the celestial scene, the stars on the moon phase disc replicate the night sky when Apollo 11 landed on the Moon in 1969, as observed from Omega’s headquarters in Biel. Initial thoughts Maybe the new Speedmaster is an ironic reference to the “Moonwatch” nickname. In fact, it doubles the Moon reference with Moon meteorite fragments and the moon phase. But does the Speedmaster need to be dressed up with a moon phase and meteorite? Intrinsically, the new model has a few things going for it. The in-house movement inside is one of Omega’s top-of-the-line chronograph calibres. And it also has a scaled-down case that improves wearability. Now 43 mm, the watch has a more compact form than its chunky 44.25 mm predecessor. Despite the in-house movement and liberal use of meteorite, the Speedmaster Moonphase still feels pricey with a retail of US$17,100. That said, most recent Speedmaster models are expensive – this costs only US$1,500 more than the Speedmaster C...

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MB&F; Jan 14, 2025

MB&F; Marks 20 Years with Legacy Machine Longhorn Editions

As part of its 20th anniversary celebrations, MB&F; has unveiled the Legacy Machine Perpetual Longhorn and Legacy Machine Sequential Flyback Longhorn. These new models retain the groundbreaking movements developed by Stephen McDonnell but add a fresh twist in the form of elongated lugs, or “horns,” that give the watches their name. Limited to just 20 pieces each, the Longhorn editions feature stainless steel cases and a more muted take on MB&F;’s signature style with black dials. The Longhorn is a revival of sorts of a 2009 prototype of the Legacy Machine 1. To ensure good fit across a range of wrists, the longer lugs include dual spring bar holes; one at the tip and another closer to the case. Initial thoughts As a fan of MB&F;, and especially the work of Stephen McDonnell, I was immediately interested in the Longhorn editions, despite the fact that they’re largely cosmetic variations of existing models. The watches are intrinsically interesting, given their groundbreaking movements, and new versions of good watches are always worth a look. Visually, the Longhorn editions are more monochromatic than most MB&F; designs. Featuring stainless steel cases, black lacquer sub-dials, and rhodium-plated base plates, the Longhorn editions are a departure for MB&F;, offering an alternative to the brand’s signature, extroverted style. Notably, the black-and-silver livery was used on the recent LM SE Eddy Jaquet, albeit without the “long horns”. But there’s no denying the f...

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Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Jan 13, 2025

Review: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in Steel

First launched in 18k yellow gold a little over two years ago, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 finally debuts in stainless steel. Sticking to the familiar vintage-remake template established by the gold model, the 222 retains the familiar “bottle cap” bezel and applied Maltese cross emblem, but in brushed steel. Like the gold model, the 222 “Jumbo” in steel is executed to a high level of fit and finish – certainly superior to that of the vintage original – and it’s presented in the classic livery of a matte blue dial (great) and faux-vintage lume (not so much). More importantly, the steel 222 substantially more affordable than the gold version, about half as expensive in fact. Initial thoughts The 222 in gold was well received at launch in 2022; it helped that the roll-out took place when integrated bracelet sports watches were all the rage. That success made the steel version a certainty. Vacheron Constantin (VC) took a little longer than I expected to unveil the steel 222, but now it’s finally here. The watch is, admittedly, predictable. It has all of the familiar elements found in the vintage originals and then the gold reissue. But it is still appealing, because the quality of execution is high and the proportions of the watch are good. Compare this to a vintage 222 and the improvement in build quality, particularly of the bracelet, is immediately obvious. Although the steel 222 is compact by modern standards, it has the refined quality of a con...

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Breguet Combines Engraving Lacquer Jan 10, 2025

Breguet Combines Engraving, Lacquer, and Guilloche for the New Year

To celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, Breguet has done something adventurous with its typically formal dress watch. Created to mark the upcoming Year of the Snake, the Classique 7145 “Snake” is still ultra-thin and time-only, but features a solid gold dial bearing a stylised serpent motif realised with a combination of guilloché and engraving, with translucent green lacquer for colour. Initial thoughts The new Classique has been masterfully reworked to give it an entirely different look that departs entirely from the traditional silvered engine-turning that is a Breguet signature. For fans of Breguet’s old-school aesthetic, this is probably too far from tradition, but for someone seeking something different, this might strike a chord. Aesthetics aside, the guilloché and engraving entail a higher level of craftsmanship than ordinary engine-turned dials. In fact, the snake dial is arguably more complex and refined in technique than the dial on last year’s Dragon edition. The dial complexity is reflected in the price of US$74,600, which is substantially more than the basic time-only Classique, but on par with prevailing retail prices for metiers d’art dials. Exquisite dial work The Classique “Snake” is all about the dial, which highlights the art of engraving, guilloche, and miniature painting. The engraving employs a bas-relief technique that gives the snake a sculptural form. The motif is first sketched and then sculpted by a skilled artisan using chisels...

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Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Tourbillon Jan 9, 2025

In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Tourbillon

Greubel Forsey unexpectedly debuted the Hand Made 1 in 2019, but the watch has recently been in the headlines because Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg was wearing one while announcing the elimination of Meta’s fact-checking policy. So it’s an opportune time to revisit the Hand Made 1, especially since its successor may be on the horizon. More classical in style than the typical Greubel Forsey, the Hand Made 1 gets its name from the fact that entire watch, including the case, is “95%” produced “using only hand-operated tools”, but finished to the requisite high standards of the brand. “Robert and myself wanted to bring the level of reliability and performance of a modern watch, so we have imposed the tolerances of a Greubel Forsey timepiece on a hand-made watch,” explains Stephen Forsey, cofounder of Greubel Forsey. Initial thoughts Highly regarded for its elaborately-finished and often elaborately constructed watches, Greubel Forsey surprised with the Hand Made 1. While still equipped with a tourbillon regulator, the Hand Made 1 is simple relative to the brand’s usual fare, which is focused on inclined regulators and multi-axis tourbillons. While the Hand Made 1 is different from most Greubel Forsey offerings, it is similar in possessing a sheen of perfection. This is immediately apparent with the watch in hand. Every edge and surface in the movement looks perfect, even under magnification. This sets it apart from the average “hand made” watch, which ...

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Longines Conquest Heritage Jan 7, 2025

The Longines Conquest Heritage in Red Dégradé

Ordinarily a faithful vintage remake with an old-school aesthetic, the Conquest Heritage gets a makeover for the Chinese Lunar New Year. The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake stands out with a striking red gradient dial featuring gold-plated hands and indices. And for the occasion, the back bears an engraved snake motif penned by Chinese contemporary artist Wu Jian’an, who drew inspiration from the ancient Chinese fable, “Legend of the White Snake”. Initial thoughts The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake offers something more modern and striking, instead of the conservative look of the standard model that has a silver or black dial. I particularly like the fact that the snake motif is limited to an engraving on the case back, as having it on the dial would have been overly ornate. It’s priced at US$3,150, almost exactly the same as the regular production model, which makes it a decent value proposition. It has a workmanlike quality appropriate for the price, while the high-spec ETA movement inside is one of its strengths. And like other zodiac-theme watches, this would have resonance for those born in the Year of the Snake a meaningful way to commemorate the occasion, not unlike wearing a birthstone. Vintage inspired The snake edition is identical to the standard model save for the dial and case back engraving. Water resistant to 50 m, the stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter, 10.7 mm in thickness, and entirely polished. It’s slightly larger than the ori...

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Jan 7, 2025

Editorial: Reflections on Peter Speake’s Return

I was happy to see Peter Speake return with PS Horology and the Tsuba. Peter was one of the first independent watchmakers I got to know well on a personal basis, and I have followed his career for almost two decades now. I first met Peter sometime in 2005, either at Baselworld (it was my first time there) or in Singapore during his regular round-the-world tours. He was then a fresh face in independent watchmaking, having just founded his brand Speake-Marin in 2002. In the context of the period, when independent watchmaking was a truly niche segment, Peter was a star (although he is modest enough he might disagree). Founded by Peter and Daniela Marin, who were then married, Speake-Marin was a promising brand with many of the ingredients for success, including a strong aesthetic (thick, chunky, and ETA-based but I liked it), good watchmaking and quality thanks to Peter’s own skill, and of course Peter himself – the personality is as important as the product in independent watchmaking. The unique Majestic Monkey of 2008, one of the first custom Speake-Marin watches I saw in person Peter was not the only watchmaker I met around that time, but I got to know him better than most other indie watchmakers, as a result of an annual watch fair that took place in Kuala Lumpur, the Malaysian capital. Known as A Journey Through Time (AJTT), the watch fair was staged by YTL Corporation, a Malaysian conglomerate with diversified interests ranging from power generation to luxury shoppi...

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TAG Heuer Jan 6, 2025

TAG Heuer is Once Again the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1

On the back of the hefty, 10-year LVMH-Formula 1 sponsorship deal signed last year, TAG Heuer now returns as the official timekeeper of Formula 1, just in time for the sport’s 75th anniversary in 2025. This is a homecoming of sorts of TAG Heuer, which was official timekeeper for F1 for a decade from 1992. In fact, the brand’s roots in motorsports go back several decades - Heuer was the first luxury watch brand to display its logo on a Formula 1 car in 1969, and the first to sponsor a team in 1971 when it partnered with Scuderia Ferrari. And TAG Heuer famously signed Ayrton Senna as an ambassador in 1988, just before he became a champion driver. Jack Heuer (centre, in blue) at Ferrari in Maranello In fact, the brand name itself references F1: well before TAG Group acquired Heuer in 1985, the Saudi-owned group was already shareholder in McLaren and only sold its stake in the automaker and racing team last year. TAG Heuer’s return to F1 comes at an opportune time, with the sport having evolved into a global entertainment franchise under the ownership of Liberty Media. According to F1, it now boasts an audience of 750 million fans, many of whom are drawn into the sport by the hit Netflix series, and also an upcoming film starring Brad Pitt.  

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Patek Philippe Nautilus But Jan 5, 2025

Peter Speake Returns with PS Horology and the Tsuba

Peter Speake has introduced the first watches under his new brand, PS Horology. Long separated from the eponymous brand Speake-Marin, Mr Speake has launched the Tsuba. A significant departure from his earlier designs, the Tsuba’s case and bracelet features flowing, organic lines inspired by tsuba, guards found on traditional Japanese swords that were functional but often exquisitely decorated. The debut of PS Horology, just six days into the new year, is the first significant relaunch of 2025 but probably not the last. Initial thoughts Mr Speake is a significant figure in the early history of independent watchmaking, so the launch of his new brand attracted my attention. While the designs are a departure from what I’m used to seeing from the projects he’s been involved with in the past, they are nonetheless executed with an eye for the details. The Tsuba is all about its case and bracelet design, which is almost organic in feel, calling to mind watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus. But the Tsuba’s design has an altogether different influence, and the similarity is incidental. The unusual shape of the case means it’s difficult to manufacture and finish, with dramatic transitions between brushed convex surfaces and polished concave surfaces. The watch is powered by the well-known Vaucher cal. 5401, a thin, sophisticated calibre that helps the Tsuba achieve its appealing slimness of just under 9 mm. The multi-part dials are also worth close examination. The stan...

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Longines High-Frequency Chronometer Gets Jan 3, 2025

Longines’ High-Frequency Chronometer Gets a Carbon Composite Case

Arguably under appreciated, the original Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver was a precision timekeeper with a high-frequency movement, the L.836.6. With the high-spec movement, the watch was appealing, albeit pricey by Longines’ standards. Now the brand has given the model an upgrade with the Ultra-Chron Carbon. The Ultra-Chron Carbon retains the familiar cushion-shaped case, but now in carbon composite, giving it lightness and a modern aesthetic that contrasts well with the retro, 1970s origins of the design. Initial thoughts The Ultra-Chron Carbon stands out for its blend of an advanced, industrial movement, composite materials technology (undoubtedly thanks to the Swatch Group’s vast industrial base), and a vintage-inspired aesthetic. Although it’s simply a modest variation of an existing model, the new Ultra-Chron marks the brand’s first venture into non-traditional case materials in the modern day. Priced at US$4,900, the Ultra-Chron Carbon commands a notably higher price than its stainless steel counterpart. While it does offer technical advantages - such as the carbon composite case and a high-frequency (5 Hz) movement - the watch still feels a little expensive relative to alternatives, especially since Longines is primarily a brand that competes in a lower price range. More broadly, the Ultra-Chron Carbon is not a like-for-like vintage remake, which is a good thing. But Longines can arguably do more with its movements. Given that the brand’s enthusiast-orien...

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Casio ns I was already Jan 3, 2025

In-Depth Retrospective: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk “Luminous”

I was there when the Zeitwerk “Luminous” was launched at SIHH in January 2010, just a few months after the launch of the original Zeitwerk in May 2009. To say that I was impressed with the Zeitwerk “Luminous” when I first saw it that year is an understatement. Already the original Zeitwerk was, and is, a landmark in contemporary watchmaking. A luminous version, well, what could be better? Even though the most complicated Lange debuted that year was the Tourbograph Honeygold “Homage to F. A. Lange” for the 165th anniversary (an odd milestone to celebrate but that’s another story), the glow-in-the-dark Zeitwerk was the star. Enough of a star that Johann Rupert, the controlling shareholder of Richemont, has been spotted wearing one on several occasions. I was already a longtime fan of the brand, but that Zeitwerk “Luminous” was astonishing. Even though it was, strictly speaking, merely a cosmetic variation, the Zeitwerk “Luminous” was cool – and that was a big deal for a brand like Lange. I wrote this about the watch at SIHH 2010: “[It] is absolutely unconventional… even avant-garde… During the day this has a dark, almost brooding look, but at night it glows tenaciously… This avant-garde PVD Lange is utterly cool (yes, “Lange” and “cool” in the same sentence). It is a tad gimmicky, but the lesson is this: gimmicks are forgiven if a watch is truly high quality and innovative.” I wasn’t the only one who thought that way, because thoug...

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Seiko Power Design Project Returns Jan 2, 2025

The Seiko Power Design Project Returns in 2025

Building on the success of the Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches, an annual design-focused exhibition inaugurated last year, Seiko has just opened the 2025 event Tokyo’s trendy Harajuku district. Open from now till February 16, 2025, this year’s exhibition delves further into combining watchmaking and design in innovative and whimsical ways to create concept watches that are distinct from the brand’s conventional offerings. Amongst the watches designed by six of Seiko’s designers is one conceived for the perfect boiled egg, and even a watch for a vampire that distinguishes between day and night. The “Vampire” watch, distinguished by its red dial and gemstone-accented bezel Among the exhibition’s other notable creations is a “tool watch” for a ninja. Entirely in black, this tells the time in a tactile manner. It’s even paired with a wrap-around strap inspired by the traditional Japanese archery glove. Featuring an all-black aesthetic that evokes the stealth of a ninja. Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches 2 takes place from December 20, 2024 to February 16, 2025, at Seiko Seed, an exhibition space owned by the watchmaker. It’s open to the public from 11:00 am-8:00 pm daily (with the last admission at 7:45 pm). Admission is free. Seiko Seed Harajuku 1-14-30 Jingumae Shibuya-ku, Tokyo For more, visit seiko-design.com.  

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Vacheron Constantin VC will all mark Dec 26, 2024

Year in Review: Eight Predictions for 2025

Twenty twenty-five will be shaped by several factors, ranging from major anniversaries for a trio of important high horology brands, to economic reality where the slowdown in demand will reshape retail channels (and already led one watch brand to go bust). And the coming year will also see the still-unknowable Rolex strategy unfold, which might happen under the radar but will definitely be interesting. Big watches for a big year Next year will be a milestone for trio of important brands. Audemars Piguet (AP), Breguet, and Vacheron Constantin (VC) will all mark significant anniversaries: 150 years at AP, 250 years of Breguet, and 270 years for VC. This implies some major timepieces or even mechanical objects are on the way. Such watches are practically convention as landmark anniversaries are often platforms for brands to launch major watches. Some of the most complicated watches in contemporary watchmaking were anniversary creations – Patek Philippe marked 150 years with the Calibre 89, and then 175 years with the Grandmaster Chime. The Patek Philippe Calibre 89 launched in 1989 for its 150th anniversary. Image – Patek Philippe Museum In 2005, when VC marked its 250th year, it launched the Tour de l’Ile, which was the most complicated wristwatch in the world at the time, and also the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction that year. With that in mind, VC might be working on something that lives up to its status as a maker of haute horlogerie complications. The Vac...

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Patek Philippe Cubitus leaving aside Dec 24, 2024

Best of 2024: Surprises and Unexpected Developments

There were relatively fewer surprises in 2024, perhaps because of the overall slowdown in demand for luxury watches. There were a few big surprises though, including the biggest one of all, the Patek Philippe Cubitus, leaving aside the leak thanks to a premature publication of Fortune magazine. Perhaps even more surprising and even bigger, both figuratively and literally, was the Bugatti Tourbillon, a hypercar inspired by a watch. Also notable was the fact that there was little unexpected from independent watchmakers, which perhaps underlines the still-robust demand for watches by the indies, which stick to safe bets that are easy to sell. Here’s a look at our team’s take on the unexpected launches of the year. Biver Automatique – SJX The first Biver watch was a carillon minute repeater with tourbillon that was finely finished, inside and out, but it was big, thick, and expensive. The follow-up, in contrast, was almost the opposite. The Automatique is compact and elegantly wearable, with a clean design that has just the right amount of vintage flavour. The only aspect where the Automatique stays true to its predecessor is in the finishing, which is outstanding, inside and out. The surprising bit about the Automatique is the movement. For one, it was developed by Dubois Depraz, better known as a maker of chronograph- and perpetual calendar modules mounted on ETA movements. Second, it arguably exceeds the movement of the Carillon Tourbillon in terms of design and decor...

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Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Dec 23, 2024

Best of 2024: Value Propositions Below US$10,000

Many of the year’s most notable watches were expensive, especially complications and independent watchmaking, but there were still a few standouts at the affordable end of the price spectrum. Some relied on familiar formulas, like the Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, while others like the Louis Erard Vianney Halter collaboration were unexpected. Here’s our team’s take on the year’s best watches under US$10,000. Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph - David Ichim A great debut from the recently-established micro brand is the Type 10 Chronograph. Albishorn’s tagline is “imaginary vintage” - drawing inspiration from actual vintage watches, but reimagined with an entirely novel composition, resulting in watches that are highly suggestive of an era without actually being remakes. The Type 10 Chronograph exemplifies this philosophy. The hands, typeface, bezel, and slim lugs pay homage to mid-century aviator chronographs from the likes of Airain, Breguet, and Heuer. The unusual arrangement of the chronograph display however makes it entirely unique.  Inside is a heavily reworked 7750-derived movement, that is positioned unconventionally, leading to the unusual crown and pusher arrangement along with the unorthodox chronograph layout. The manually-wound movement is also C.O.S.C certified and incorporates a chronograph-function indicator. In fact, the calibre is arguably more than just heavily reworked, amongst other things, it has shorter pinions than a 77...

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Vacheron Constantin Dec 23, 2024

Best of 2024: Complications

Perhaps echoing the paucity of highlights in indie watchmaking, the best complications of 2024 were not numerous, but those that stood out were outstanding. Vacheron Constantin, for instance, unveiled the most complicated watch ever, while Bovet solved the longstanding problem of summer time across continents in an enormous (and enormously expensive) wristwatch. Here’s the team’s take on the best complications of the year. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst – Brandon Moore The iconic Datograph turned 25 this year, and collectors were treated to three different limited edition variants to mark the occasion. We were first introduced to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” and the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary at Watches & Wonders, but Lange was arguably saving the best for last: the first Datograph to receive the brand’s artisanal Handwerkskunst treatment. Featuring a hand-engraved tremblage dial and limited to just 25 pieces, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is a fitting way to celebrate a quarter-century of being best-in-class. While not particularly creative, this very-limited edition captures both the magic of Lange and its Datograph perfectly. Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 – SJX The introduction to our story on the watch sums it up best: “The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is an ingenious solution to an age-old problem: accounting for daylight saving time (also known as summer time) in a multi-timezone wristwatch… the solution is e...

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Dec 23, 2024

Best of 2024: Independent Watchmaking

Independent watchmaking continued its hot streak in 2024, with interest and demand for this niche segment holding up better amidst an industry-wide slowdown. But surprisingly – or unsurprisingly depending on how you look at it – there were relatively few outstanding new creations from the indies. A handful, however, did stand out. We look at the team’s highlights of the year, which range from Konstantin Chaykin’s thinnest-watch-ever to the debut by Swiss-based Japanese watchmaker Takahiro Aigaki. Aigaki Direct-Impulse Tourbillon – Brandon Moore I still remember the moment I stumbled across Takahiko Aigaki’s Instagram profile earlier this year, because the close-up image of the tourbillon cage made me do a double take. Sure, it was well finished, but in 2024 good finishing no longer provides the competitive advantage it once did; the top end of the market is just too competitive. No, what struck me was the unusual double direct-impulse escapement. When the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon was finally revealed, it was worth the wait. While arguably a bit plain on the outside, the movement exhibits a degree of grace and technicality that is still quite rare. The watch is truly a sleeper, in the sense that the case and dial reveal little of the horological magic within. Daniel Roth Tourbillon – Brandon Moore It’s counterintuitive to be writing about the launch of the Daniel Roth brand in 2024, considering the man himself was one of the seminal independent watchmakers ...

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Patek Philippe turning Dec 20, 2024

Explained: The Rolex Parachrom Hairspring

Over the last decade, metal alloy hairsprings seem to fallen out of favour across watchmaking, with even conservative, haute horlogerie brands like Breguet and Patek Philippe turning to silicon balance springs. Not to mention large-scale makers of sporty watches like Omega and Tudor, which already transitioned to silicon balance springs. Rolex, however, stands out. The Geneva marque continues to employ a hairspring fabricated of its proprietary blue alloy – the Parachrom hairspring. The Parachrom hairspring inside the cal. 4131 of the Cosmograph Daytona The advantages of alloy The use of blue Parachrom is rooted in the simple fact that the right metal alloy boasts performance that is at least on par with its silicon counterpart – while offering some distinct advantages missing in silicon. Alloy hairsprings are traditionally made of Nivarox (and its family of related alloys), a special alloy that neither oxidises nor change its dimensions with variations in temperature. Invented in 1933 and almost a century old, Nivarox is a mix of nickel and iron, making it a ferromagnetic alloy, thus susceptible to influence from magnetic fields.  The cal. 3255 of the Day-Date 40 is equipped with a Parachrom hairspring. Image – Rolex In order to make its hairsprings more resistant to magnetism and to bypass the Swatch-imposed monopoly on Nivarox hairsprings (Nivarox-FAR being one of the key companies of Swatch Group), Rolex set out to develop its own hairspring alloy in the early 2...

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