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Aug 1, 2023

Guilloche for Beginners: A Photo Essay

Tucked away on a wooded island in the Pacific Northwest lies one of the most important horological workshops in the United States. Known as Memoria Technica, the workshop is owned by Brittany Nicole “Nico” Cox, a renowned conservator of mechanical objects. I was first introduced to Nico in 2019 by Joshua Shapiro, the California-based watchmaker and guillocheur behind J.N. Shapiro. Joshua and I happened to visit Nico’s workshop on a day when she was teaching a beginner’s course on the art of guilloche. Since that encounter, I’d always had it in mind to return and take her class, but life (and a global pandemic) got in the way until I was finally able to secure a spot in her July class this year. But what is guilloche? Within the context of decorative techniques, guilloche, also known as engine turning, occupies a niche all its own. Characterised by intricate, recurring, and overlapping patterns, guilloche techniques have been used to decorate some of the most coveted objects in history. Meet your instructor In the rarified world of antiquarian horology, Nico is practically a household name – a bit like Beyonce. Nico specialises in the conservation and restoration of all types of mechanical objects, from watches and clocks to music boxes and automata. Having trained as a conservator at the Museum Speelklok in the Netherlands, which houses one of the world’s largest collections of mechanical musical objects, Nico is especially passionate about automata. Not onl...

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Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” Jul 31, 2023

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline”

Released in March at Watches & Wonders, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” is perhaps the most notable travel watch in Tudor’s line up thanks to a silvery-white dial that may or may not have been inspired by the Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. A variant of the original model in black, the Black Bay GMT with a white dial is typical Tudor – namely excellent quality and outstanding value – but it might be a subtle reference to the mythical, and sometimes controversial, GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Though there’s no official reference to the potential historical inspiration, the GMT “Opaline” is an in-joke that a historically-minded enthusiast will appreciate. Initial thoughts To the casual observer, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” might seem like yet another iteration of Tudor’s bestselling dive watch. In fact, the GMT might seem less appealing when set against the equally recent Black Bay 54 with its properly-vintage proportions. But the GMT “Opaline” deserves a second look. The softly-grained dial with its “polar” palette is clear, clean, and well-executed, and most importantly possesses a different feel compared to the black dial of the original version, especially since black is the de facto dial colour for sports watches and very, very common. Being a dual time zone and silvery-white, the GMT “Opaline” is different despite its traditional design. That said, the GMT “Opaline” is otherwise entirely the same as the model introduced in 2018, which mea...

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Omega s Novel Take Jul 28, 2023

Omega’s Novel Take on the Seamaster Diver 300M for Paris 2024 Olympics

As the Summer Olympics in Paris approach, Omega introduces a special edition of the Seamaster Diver 300M. Limited editions for the event are a given, but this latest Olympic edition is dressed in unusual livery for a Seamaster. The brand’s Moonshine Gold alloy is used for bezel, while the dial is bright white ceramic.  Initial thoughts Considering Omega’s long association with the Olympics stretches back 91 years, the number of limited editions for the games is numerous. Many were regrettably rather mundane in design, featuring the customary dial colour changes and Olympic markings. However, this particular edition stands out with its lighter tones, a departure from the typically dark hues of Omega’s dive watches, which was also the usual look of previous Olympic editions. And because this is an Omega, the colours are as much about aesthetics as materials. One aspect that particularly appeals in this release is the Moonshine Gold bezel. The golden insert complements the white ceramic dial and the stainless steel case and bracelet. This gives the watch a sense of visual luxury, making it different from the typical diver special edition without being gimmicky, which arguably gives it more longevity in terms of style. The price of this special edition stands at US$8,700, notably higher than the standard steel model, which is rationalised by the gold bezel no doubt. It will only be available, for the moment, at Omega boutiques in Paris. That said, the brand has not yet ...

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Longines Master Collection Small Seconds Jul 27, 2023

Hands On: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds

Longines marked a historical milestone last year with the well-received Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a watch that combines classic good looks with a modest price tag. Now the brand has taken the same styling and applied it to another model to create the Master Collection Small Seconds. The Small Seconds makes its debut in a pleasing variety of dial colours, including a fashionable “salmon”. As much of a value proposition as last year’s anniversary model, the Small Seconds retains the same aesthetic as its predecessor but with a subsidiary seconds at six that gives it a more retro feel. But because of the small seconds, it becomes a noticeably thicker watch. So even though it looks much like the anniversary edition, the Small Seconds feels different. Initial thoughts The Small Seconds is largely identical to its centre-seconds counterpart, so it has much of the same appeal. The design is a pleasing vintage style with all the right elements like Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Admittedly, the styling is somewhat generic – it’s vintage inspired rather than a remake – but the result is appealing, especially considering its affordability. Although the watch is clearly an industrial product, the details are done well, the engraved numerals are especially attractive. This is especially so on the anthracite and salmon dials, which have the numerals in contrasting plating. The anthracite dial is especially striking because it is a relatively uncommon co...

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Sarpaneva Jul 26, 2023

Sarpaneva Introduces the Näkki, Inspired by Nordic Mythology

Having made a specialty of artistic Super-Luminova that began with the Moomin in 2020, Finnish independent watchmaker Sarpaneva now applies it to a motif inspired by the water spirits of Nordic folkore. The Sarpaneva Näkki has a hand-finished dial open worked to create over 650 apertures that are then filled by hand with luminous paint, creating a multi-coloured scene – with the brand’s trademark moon phase looming overhead – that is best appreciated in the dark. Initial thoughts The Näkki is quintessential Sarpaneva in combining the art and history of its home region along with the brand’s distinctive design. Though its style is similar to Sarpaneva’s past models, particularly last year’s Nocturne, the Näkki is more elaborate in terms of dial decoration and finishing. In fact, unlike past Sarpaneva models with Super-Luminova dials, the Näkki is almost as colourful during the day as a result of the pigmented lume that still has colour even when not luminescent. Dial aside, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard Sarpaneva automatic, which means a high quality case and customised movement with an especially elaborate rotor made in-house. Though the movement itself is outsourced and no-frills, the execution of the rest of the components is high quality. At €21,000 before taxes, the Näkki is amongst the most expensive Sarpaneva watches. The price is arguably justified by the complexity of the dial, though it is probably close to the price ceiling...

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Parmigiani Fleurier has again partnered Jul 25, 2023

Parmigiani Releases the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Pacific Blue”

Parmigiani Fleurier has again partnered with Singapore-based Sincere Fine Watches, resulting in the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel Pacific Blue SHH Edition. Conceived for the retailer’s independents-focused store, Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), the watch features a unique, light blue hue for the barleycorn guilloché dial, while retaining the characteristic integrated-bracelet design and an ultra-thin automatic movement. Initial thoughts The Tonda PF has been a crowd favourite due to the fact that it’s an original take on the popular integrated bracelet design, while also having excellent proportions. At the same time, the barleycorn guilloché dial arguably boasts amongst the finest engine turning on a sports watch. So a new shade for the dial is a welcome thing, since it adds an good looking option to an already appealing watch. However, I would have hoped for something more distinctive to set apart the SHH Edition beyond the dial colour. Another guilloche pattern for the dial, for instance, would have made it truly stand out. While the standard model has proven extremely popular – Parmigiani has since unveiled many complicated iterations of the model – it is nice to see that this will only be produced in a limited quantity, adding a level of exclusivity to the new dial, which will surely be appreciated by clients of SHH. Priced at around US$27,000 before taxes, this carries a 10% premium over to the regular-production version. Considering that this is a limited ed...

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Jacob & Co. Jul 24, 2023

Hands On: Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution

Historically known for its over-the-top jewelled watches and oversized complications, Jacob & Co. recently debuted a watch that is very much quintessential Jacob, but surprisingly novel in mechanical terms. The Astronomia Revolution sticks to the distinctive, extra-large styling that defines the model, but contains an all-new movement that combines several complex assemblies into an even more complex movement, all in the name of a dynamic, fast-rotating display. Carrying the tourbillon and time display, the carousel is impressively quick and completes one revolution a minute, a feat made possible by a one-sixth-of-a-second constant-force mechanism and a differential for the time display. The kinetic nature of the dial means this is unlike any other mechanical watch. Initial thoughts The Astronomia Revolution made it into my list of notable complications unveiled at Watches & Wonders earlier this year: “[The] Revolution seems like yet another variant of the New York jeweller’s bestselling and bulbous timepiece… Except that it is not… While past versions of the Astronomia required between ten to 20 minutes or more for the carousel to complete one rotation, the Revolution does it in one minute [and] functions as a minute hand. To move a component that large at such a speed is unprecedented…” Which pretty much sums it up. It looks like a typical Jacob & Co. watch, but is much more interesting mechanically. That is because the movement goes against the prevailing co...

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Citizen Introduces Jul 24, 2023

Citizen Introduces the Promaster Diver “Fujitsubo” in DLC Titanium

Citizen’s flagship mechanical dive watch gets an upgrade with the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m “Fujitsubo”. The new “Fujitsubo” diver features a gradient-finish grey dial, but its standout feature is the case and bracelet in the brand’s proprietary hardened titanium alloy coated with diamond-like carbon (DLC). Initial thoughts Sometimes underestimated, Citizen’s dive watches don’t garner as much attention as those of its competitor Seiko, primarily due to the scarcity of mechanical dive in Citizen’s lineup. Most of Citizen’s dive watches are solar-powered or quartz. Nevertheless, the Japanese watchmaker has recently taken significant steps towards boosting its mechanical offerings, particularly with the introduction of the oversized and modern Promaster 200 m diver. The “Fujitsubo”, on the other hand, takes inspiration from the Challenge Diver of 1977, explaining its vintage styling. But this latest iteration exudes a more contemporary feel owing to the gradient grey dial and the DLC coating on the case and bracelet. The resulting shades-of-grey livery makes this stand apart from its predecessor, which was essentially a like-for-like remake.  Priced at US$1,195, the “Fujitsubo” DLC is a bit more expensive than the standard titanium model. Nonetheless, it justifies the higher price tag with improved aesthetics and the superior durability offered by the DLC coating. That said, it would have been even more appealing with the option of a rubber ...

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Greubel Forsey Goes Big Jul 21, 2023

Greubel Forsey Goes Big with Smaller Sports Watches

Historically known for its oversized, over-complicated watches, Greubel Forsey appears to be taking a step in a different direction as its resizes two of its bestselling sports watches, the Balancier Convexe S2 and Double Balancier Convexe. The Convexe duo are now thinner and smaller, while retaining the same ovoid form with a curved profile that characterises the brand’s sports watches. While the difference in case size between the earlier models and the new pair is worth noting, the downsizing is arguably more significant in its implications for the direction of the brand, which also recently announced an expansion to its sloping, glass-box manufacture. The Double Balancier Convexe (left), and Balancier Convexe S2 Initial thoughts  A reduction in size from Greubel Forsey is rather unexpected since its watches have traditionally been unashamedly large. To be fair, the brand utilised the large cases well to best display the complex movements and expert finishing. However, the extra-large watches, along with typically hefty price tags, have always placed the brand in a niche of its own – not only did buyers need the means to buy a six-figure watch, but also have the wrist circumference to pull it off.  While we have seen a shift in taste over the last couple of years towards decreasing case diameters, Greubel Forsey and its peer in the same price range, namely Richard Mille, had seemed immune to the change – or simply resistant. So, while the seemingly innocuous red...

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Richard Mille which Jul 21, 2023

Roger Dubuis Combines the Inclined Balance and Flyback Chronograph

One of the latest releases from Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, makes the most of its openworked dial to show off a newly-developed calibre, the RD780, which combines an inclined balance wheel with an integrated chronograph. A complex movement with two patents pending, the RD780 is notably elaborate with unusual features like a digital minute counter and twin barrels. And technically-minded enthusiasts will also note the RD780 boasts diamond-coated silicon escapement parts, which are both wear- and magnetism-resistant. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current chronographs distinguish themselves through bold design and flashy technical features. While the style is outlandish, it is refreshing to see this unique approach to a chronograph design, particularly since the technical features are novel and interesting, such as the inclined balance wheel and column wheel, visible through the openworked dial. But the Excalibur chronograph’s technical merits are perhaps overshadowed by the design, which is excessive in a hyper-mechanical style. The chronograph’s dial is busy, even for an openworked dial. It is not easy to read, even when compared to what is being offered by the likes of Richard Mille, which is perhaps the closest comparison to the Excalibur chronograph. The Excalibur chronograph is priced at US$101,500, making it more affordable than the equivalent from Richard Mille, the RM 72-01. In fact, the Excalibur is half as expensive as the Richar...

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Petermann Bédat Jul 20, 2023

In-Depth: Petermann Bédat Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Having made its debut in 2020 with the 1967 deadbeat seconds, Petermann Bédat recently unveiled its second watch, the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The 2941 lives up to the benchmark established by its predecessor with a traditionally-styled movement that is decorated to an impressive degree, albeit one that reflects constraints in its development. The brand’s founders, Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, are both watchmakers in their early 30s who studied watchmaking in Geneva before a stint at A. Lange & Söhne. The pair also spent time carrying out restorations of vintage watches. Their shared experience is illustrated in the 2941, most notably in the traditional decoration and styling of the movement. Initial thoughts When Petermann Bédat made its debut in 2020 with the 1967, a time-only with deadbeat seconds, independent watchmaking was a much less crowded space. As a result, the 1967 stood out for both its intrinsic qualities, namely excellent finishing and traditional mechanics, but also the fact that it was fairly novel. Now time-only watches with seemingly good finishing seem to be everywhere, most of which are even similar to the Petermann Bédat profile in having founders in the their 30s and 40s. So Petermann Bédat did well in introducing a following up with something more complicated for its second model. The 2941 continues with the aesthetics of the 1967, essentially a modernised “sector” dial, and also the movement finishing. The quality...

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Baltic Refines Jul 19, 2023

Baltic Refines the HMS & Bicompax with the 003 Series

French microbrand Baltic has sharpened the styling of its signature models with the HMS 003 and Bicompax 003. While maintaining their 1940s-inspired styling and affordable pricing, the new duo feature subtle enhancements to the design, most notably on the dial and a small case diameter. Initial thoughts  Baltic found success with its formula of retro style and accessible pricing – most of its watches are in the US$500 to US$1,000 range – with the Micro-Rotor MR01 being a recent bestseller. It is a nice surprise to see the brand’s debut models rebooted to gain a smaller case similar in size to the MR01. The dials of the 003 series offer a lively aesthetic with textured surfaces and applied indices that create a pleasing contrast. This is an upgrade from from the 002 models, which felt a bit flat due to the printed markings on the dial. And the reduced case size of 36.5 mm give the 003 series distinct, 1940s-inspired proportions that match the dial designs perfectly. However, the new dials are perhaps lacking one thing, an applied logo to match the applied indices. Of the three colours, the “salmon” versions are predictable and stand out as crowd pleasers that will probably sell out swiftly give the faddish nature of the colour. The blue dial with gold indices, however, is both unusual and attractive. As is typical for Baltic, the 003 watches are made inexpensively but smartly so they feel a bit nicer than they cost. The new models maintain the brand’s competiti...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar Jul 18, 2023

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar, Now in Red and Black

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has just unveiled a fresh colour option for the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. Sporting a black dial adorned with red and gold accents, the latest iteration is the chromatic opposite of the original model that featured a conservative silver dial.  Initial thoughts The Master Control Chronograph Calendar was released two years ago with an unsurprising silver dial that fit well with the vintage-inspired design but lacked oomph. Fortunately, JLC has addressed this with a high contrast palette that is still suitably vintage inspired but much more striking. Vintage watches with black-and-red dials are uncommon, but they do exist. The combination is appealing, but not the most practical since red text on a black dial is hard to read due to the low contrast between the two colours. This is especially so for the calendar indications, while the pulsations scale on the periphery is probably unreadable in low light. But still, the appeal of the dial certainly makes it compelling despite the poor legality.  Colours aside, the watch is identical to the original version, so it shares the same strengths, like the solid, old-school design, and weaknesses, like the mix of French and English on the dial. This costs the same as the earlier version in rose gold, which is US$32,500. The price parity is certainly fair and logical. However, the price is a bit higher than it should be. While not exorbitant, the price does not represent the sort of strong value propo...

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Jul 16, 2023

Dornblüth Marks 350 Years of Mitsukoshi with a Limited Edition

The small German independent was commissioned to produce a limited run of watches to the 350th anniversary of the oldest department store in the world, Mitsukoshi, which began as a kimono store in 1673. Designed in a collaborative effort between the watchmaker and watch retailer Shellman, the D. Dornblüth & Sohn Mitsukoshi 350th Anniversary retains the traditional Dornblüth aesthetic that evokes marine chronometers of the 19th century, but with a bronze-coloured dial. Initial thoughts  Not many will be overly familiar with D. Dornblüth & Sohn, but its Germanic aesthetic is reassuringly familiar. It was founded by a father and son watchmaking duo who learnt the trade restoring vintage timepieces, allow them to employ traditional techniques in making their watches. As a result, their work is customisable in terms of finishing and colours, though the pair have been able to maintain a clear brand identity throughout.  It would be easy to dismiss this watch. Only five will be made, and all sold through a Tokyo department store, but the curious combination of German sensibilities and restrained Japanese taste makes it one of the more intriguing offerings of this year. The Mitsukoshi edition channels the spirit of Dornblüth very well, but manages to stand apart from the typical Dornblüth thanks to its striking golden dial that contrast with the silvered dials found on the typical Dornblüth. One detail that is worth mentioning is the light touch co-branding. There is in f...

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TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Launched Jul 14, 2023

Hands On: TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper

Launched in 1968 as a chronograph for sailors, the Skipper ref. 7754 has long been one of the more idiosyncratic models created by Heuer, novel and rare enough to be sought after by Heuer aficionados. Now the brand has revived the model in a gently modernised format with the TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper. Based on the Carrera “Glassbox” introduced in March, the new watch retains the regatta-inspired aesthetic of its predecessor but is very much its own watch. Initial thoughts  While not nearly as well as known as its auto racing-inspired stablemates like the Autavia and Monaco, the Skipper is very much in keeping with Heuer’s historical speciality of functional chronographs conceived for professional sportspeople. Despite being a fairly niche model, the vintage Skipper is memorable thanks to a distinctive aesthetic, which has been smartly transplanted into the new Skipper. The new Skipper has a vintage-inspired aesthetic but is a clearly a modern watch, demonstrating TAG Heuer’s ability to successfully reimagine its historical models. It retains the key design elements that made the original memorable, namely the coloured sub-dials and orange seconds hand. But the new model isn’t a remake, but is essentially a variant of the Carrera Glassbox. As a result, it shares the appeal of the Glassbox, including the case styling and in-house movement. But like the Glassbox, the Skipper feels a little thick at just under 14 mm high, a consequence of the movement inside. Notab...

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Breguet Bestows Jul 14, 2023

Breguet Bestows a Luxe Touch on the Marine Hora Mundi for Only Watch

Breguet has unveiled a unique version of its world time wristwatch for Only Watch, the highly anticipated charity auction. The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 “Only Watch 2023” is dressed in striking, rich colours that are unusual for Breguet, bringing a new face to the jumping display, dual time sports watch with a dial that’s a twist on the traditional world map motif. The dial features a gilded globe that’s a representation of the lighted areas of the world at night. Initial thoughts Since its debut last year, the Marine Hora Mundi has remained a hidden gem. The watch boasts a clever jumping dual-time complication and it is also a luxury-sports watch, the most popular segment of watchmaking in recent years. While the production version of the Hora Mundi has a dial that feels relatively flat, the Only Watch edition is far more striking. The dial motif is a clever concept that has not been used before in watchmaking, where gilded accents are used to represent the world’s population. Moreover, the dial does away with the latitude and longitude lines found on the original, making the map and guilloche more prominent. Given the aesthetic appeal of this dial design, we hope that a similar design will be introduced for the regular production model following Only Watch. But for now, the charity auction will be the only chance to land this Hora Mundi. It carries an estimate of CHF70,000 to CHF80,000, a modest price estimate. It anticipated that this will be readily exceeded dur...

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A. Lange & Sohne Jul 13, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar seamlessly integrates two of the most intricate complications in watchmaking with symmetry and classic elegance. It has undergone several facelifts since its introduction in 2013, including the champlevé enamel Handwerkskunst of 2017. Now, the brand has introduced the latest incarnation of the model that features a dial in “salmon” – officially known as “pink gold” – while retaining the traditionally constructed calibre in a limited edition of only 100 pieces. Initial thoughts Envisioning further improvements for the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is probably challenging due to its complexity and quality. The Handwerkskunst edition did it with lots of elaborate decoration. Now comes a salmon dial, something a little unexpected, given the lack of colour across the rest of the 1815 family, which sticks fairly rigidly to silvered dials, no matter the case metal. Perhaps the new dial colour is to add a bit more appeal to an otherwise under-appreciated (and slow-selling) complication.  Perhaps the only downside to this release is that it is just a dial change with no substantial changes to note. But the intrinsic quality of the watch itself in terms of finishing, construction, and complexity is already very, very high. So adding a new shade to the otherwise conservative 1815 line up is never a bad thing, especially when done in this limited fashion. New colourway, but the same calibre The dial is ide...

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H. Moser & Cie Jul 12, 2023

Biver’s Creation for Only Watch 2023: A Repeater with No Hands

Shortly after the release of their initial timepiece, the Carillon Tourbillon, Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre are making their debut at Only Watch with the Catharsis. A bold take on the chiming watch, this unique piece has no hands on the dial, but indicates the time with the carillon minute repeater. The dial is instead decorated with a mixture of gemstones, semi-precious stone marquetry, and guilloché to create an abstract scene depicting the Moon over a seascape. Inside is a variant of the movement as Biver’s first watch, but with an hour hand on the reverse. Initial thoughts  The father-and-son duo behind Biver have to be commended for a daring debut at Only Watch, even though the watch will no doubt be polarising. They have gone extremely conceptual with the Catharsis. The idea of creating a watch with no visible way of telling the time is nothing new, having been done recently by H. Moser & Cie. in 2019 and earlier by Haldimann and Romain Jerome. However, the Catharsis aims to make a statement and chart a course for this newly minted independent brand. The aesthetics of original Biver repeater model were mixed, so this watch actually addresses that issue in a weird yet logical manner. The visual focus of the watch is the dial, which is not really a dial but a canvas for elaborate decoration. The 89 sapphires that make up the waves have been invisibly set and create a pleasing effect alongside the meteorite moon, silver obsidian sky and mother of pearl stars...

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Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Jul 12, 2023

Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan 2026

Patek Philippe recently concluded its biggest Watch Art Grand Exhibition to date with the Tokyo exhibition. The event in the Japanese capital showcased almost 500 timepieces, along with limited editions and Rare Handcrafts created especially for the event, which were seen by some 60,000 visitors at the end of its two-week run in Shinjuku. Now the event will return to Europe in October 2026, taking place in Milan, the commercial capital of a country that was historically a great consumer of Patek Philippe wristwatches. The Rare Handcrafts Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-025 “Snow-Covered Landscape” made for Watch Art Tokyo 2023 The Milan exhibition will be the seventh Watch Art exhibition after Dubai (2012), Munich (2013), London (2015), New York (2017), Singapore (2019), and Tokyo (2023). Originally planned for 2025 but later rescheduled, the Milan event will take place October 2-18, 2026. It will be open to the public at no charge. More details will be provided in due time. Update August 15, 2025: Dates of exhibition corrected.

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Jul 11, 2023

Business News: Watches & Wonders Announces 2024 Dates

Building on the success of this year’s edition, the world’s largest luxury watch fair returns next year: Watches & Wonders 2024 will take place once again at the Palexpo convention centre in Geneva from April 9-15, 2023, with the last three days being open to the public. The 2023 event saw a record 43,000 visitors attend, almost double the number in 2022. Next year’s Watches & Wonders (W&W;) will probably be even bigger. The list of participating brands for next year’s fair will be announced at a later date, though it is expected that the tally will rise compared to this year’s instalment. At the same time, W&W; next year will include three “public days” at the end where anyone can buy a ticket to enter, an increase over the two days of 2023. The growing list of exhibiting brands and additional public days furthers the event’s goal of making itself more accessible, while still enabling members of the trade, namely press and retailers, to attend the fair during the trade-only period during the first four days of the event. The increase in both exhibitors and public days brings the event closer to the model of Baselworld, which welcomed exhibitors and visitors from everywhere. And as was the case this year, brands with boutiques in downtown Geneva, mainly on the Rue du Rhône, will organise in-store events in addition to the goings-on inside Palexpo. These city events will be primarily for the public and clients.  

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Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Jul 11, 2023

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R

Because it has a strongly defined identity and direction, Patek Philippe rarely surprises. The limited editions created for the recent Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, for instance, were interesting and occasionally exceptionally complicated but predictable. However, Patek Philippe did surprise, albeit subtly, at Watches & Wonders earlier this year with the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R. Though the ref. 5224R is typical Patek Philippe in every aspect, from the slim case to the vintage-meets-modern design, it is distinctly different from the brand’s other offerings in both look and feel. Besides the 24-hour dial, a first for the brand in the modern day, the 42 mm case is also oversized by Patek Philippe standards. Despite being novel amongst current Patek Philippe offerings, the ref. 5224R is rooted in the brand’s history, being almost a direct descendent of the 24-hour-dial Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. Initial thoughts The ref. 5224R was instantly appealing when I saw it at Watches & Wonders. It is a large watch, but still elegant. And despite being a relatively simple watch – it’s essentially a two-time zone watch – the ref. 5224R has several interesting features both in terms of design and mechanics. The most obvious is the 24-hour dial. At a glance, it’s a peculiar feature for a modern Patek Philippe wristwatch, but it looks good and actually makes sense. Though it takes some getting used to when readin...

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Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion Jul 10, 2023

Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion

Greubel Forsey has revealed plans for a significant expansion of its manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Set to nearly triple the current size of the distinctive, sloping building, the CHF20 million project signals a broader strategic move for the brand as it seeks a larger share of the high-end sports watch sector. The expansion, scheduled to commence next year, will not only increase Greubel Forsey’s research and development capacity and provide additional amenities for guests and staff, but it will also enable the brand to increase production. This move aligns with the brand’s recent shift from producing mainly complex tourbillon watches to introducing simpler, sportier watches that target the segment dominated by Richard Mille. In addition to the expansion, the brand is poised to launch its eighth “Fundamental Invention” this year.  Nearly tripling in size The manufacture expansion is a key pillar of chief executive Antonio Calce’s ten-year vision for growing the brand and professionalising its operations. According to Mr Calce, the expansion will enable Greubel Forsey to pursue “ever greater creativity and excellence in hand finishing.” Antonio Calce The planned expansion of the manufacture is ambitious; the floorplan is set to nearly triple in size, from 2,000 m2 to 5,460 m2. Fortunately, the expansion will not alter the current building’s recognisable architecture of a glass box rising out of the grass. Instead, the expansion will build on and around...

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Omega Jul 10, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC30 “Only Watch 2023”

For its second outing at Only Watch, Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) created the AdC30, which takes the independent watchmaker’s proven formula to a new level with an in-house movement, a new case design, and a handmade dial.  Initial thoughts The AdC30 stands out from most of the other lots in the upcoming Only Watch auction due to its restraint. While most of the other lots are characterised by their use, or overuse, of bright colours, the AdC30 sticks to the mid-century motifs that have enabled the brand to establish a distinctive brand identity in just nine years – no easy feat for a brand that exclusively produces one-off watches by special order. This coherent aesthetic is no doubt thanks to founder Santi Martinez’s cultivated eye for detail. AdC’s watches are perhaps best described as a love letter to classical designs and the single-minded chronometric purpose of wristwatches of the 1940’s. Since its founding in 2014, the brand has focused on producing bespoke watches built around vintage Omega and Venus movements, which are upgraded in-house to meet contemporary haute horlogerie standards.  But earlier this year, AdC introduced the AdC22 featuring the M284, the brand’s first in-house movement. The AdC30 is the second publicly announced watch to use this movement, though the gap between the model numbers (which are usually consecutive) suggests there may be other watches with this movement that have been commissioned by collectors. Rega...

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Richard Mille Debut Unique Pendant Watches Jul 7, 2023

Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille Debut Unique Pendant Watches for Only Watch 2023

The upcoming instalment of Only Watch sees both Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille unveiling one-of-a-kind pendant watches for the charity auction. Despite having having the same basic form, both watches are drastically different. The American jeweller reimagines its trademark Bird on a Rock brooch, transforming it into a watch that features a front-facing bird perched on an aquamarine crystal set on an 18k yellow gold watch case, showcasing the artful fusion of jewellery artistry and functional timekeeping. Richard Mille’s offering, on the other hand, is the RM S14 Talisman Origine that combines ancient shamanic motifs with the brand’s avant-garde, open-worked mechanics. And like many Richard Mille watches, the movement boasts a tourbillon. Initial thoughts By opting for a pendant watch, Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille demonstrate their creativity and willingness to explore fresh avenues. Of the two timepieces, the offering from Tiffany is arguably more compelling because it is more sculptural. In fact, it is not apparent that the Bird on a Rock is a watch at all from a distance. And the “Bird” is not mere jewellery, it is a proper mechanic watch with a manually wound calibre, albeit a basic one. Richard Mille, usually a watchmaker through and through, shows its remarkable ability to transcend expectations by transforming its distinctive, tonneau watch case into jewellery that doubles as a work of art. Despite its unusual form, Talisman is still typical Richard Mill...

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Louis Vuitton makes Jul 7, 2023

Gérald Genta Debuts a Mickey Mouse Repeater for Only Watch 2023

The Gérald Genta brand, which has recently been revived by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the watchmaking manufacture of Louis Vuitton, makes its debut with a unique creation for Only Watch 2023. The Gérald Genta Only Watch 2023 retains the brand’s signature octagonal case, a shape historically known as the “Success”, while showcasing the whimsical side of the brand with a champlevé enamel dial featuring Mickey Mouse carrying a birthday cake. And like many past Gérald Genta watches, it tells the time with a retrograde minutes and jumping hours – along with a minute repeater. Initial thoughts The long awaited comeback of Gérald Genta, a given after its sister brand Daniel Roth was resurrected, raised expectations given the brand’s elaborate complications of the 1990s as well as the current technical prowess of LFT. Unsurprisingly, the brand has combined two of the best known themes from its short history, the Fantasy line of Disney-licensed watches and striking complications. The watch is essentially a homage to Gérald Genta’s best hits of the 1990s. The Mickey House dial is a nod to the Fantasy watches, most of which had retrograde displays. And the octagonal case is modelled on the Success, a bestseller for the brand at the time. That said, the new case design has the addition of lugs that feel slightly out of place. The original Success designs either did without lugs entirely or had simple horizontal bar lugs, both of which arguably work better with the o...

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Hublot Introduces Jul 6, 2023

Hublot Introduces the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire

Hublot has once again partnered with its favourite contemporary artist for Only Watch 2023: the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire is a one-of-a-kind creation for the biennial charity auction that is entirely unique from case to movement. Not only it is the brand’s first-ever central tourbillon, the watch has a sapphire crystal case in the shape of a flower with a bezel set with rainbow gemstones. Initial thoughts While Hublot is sometimes made fun of for its often repetitive limited editions that are colour facelifts, the creation for Only Watch is entirely new and entirely unique. Hublot and the Japanese artist have collaborated in the past, but on watches that were variants of standard models. In contrast, the Murakami Only Watch  pushes boundaries even by Hublot’s extravagant standards with a case entirely in sapphire, and flower-shaped no less. The Murakami Only Watch is also interesting mechanically. The calibre inside has a 150-hour power reserve along with a large, central tourbillon on the front. And the movement is unique to the Murakami Only Watch, at least for now. The aesthetic and mechanical novelty of the Murakami Only Watch are impressive and certainly makes this one of the highlights of Only Watch 2023. While Hublot will almost certainly create variations of this in the future, the effort expended in creating Murakami Only Watch is commendable. The Murakami Only Watch has an estimate of CHF350,000 to CHF400,000, with the high estimate being a ...

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Girard-Perregaux Introduces Jul 6, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Neo Constant Escapement for Only Watch

A regular participant at Only Watch, Girard-Perregaux’s latest contribution to the charity auction, the Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch 2023, revisits its innovation constant-force escapement. Girard-Perregaux (GP) first unveiled the Constant Escapement in 2013 as a wristwatch with a unique, dual-wheel escapement with an integral constant-force silicon buckling spring. Ten years on, the Neo Constant Escapement is a revamp of the original concept with incremental upgrades to the mechanism. Initial thoughts The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is not merely a rehash of the original. It is a technical evolution, which is at the very minimum an academically interesting take on an already exotic escapement. The Only Watch edition is dressed in predominantly monochromatic livery with a pink gold case and movement bridges – even the mainspring barrels are pink gold. The generous use of pink gold might be polarising, which arguably makes it perfectly suited as a one-off piece that will inevitably find an eager buyer at the auction. In the grander scheme of things however, the NCE Only Watch edition marks the beginning of GP reviving the Constant Escapement. Even by today’s standards of advanced tech in watchmaking, the Constant Escapement is an integrated design comprised of a double-wheel escapement with a remontoir spring, making it an escapement unlike any other. It is admirable that the escapement has been updated for better reliability, while preserving its original ide...

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Louis Vuitton Tambour Louis Vuitton has Jul 5, 2023

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour

Louis Vuitton has redesigned its trademark wristwatch some two decades after it was introduced. In contrast to its predecessors, the Louis Vuitton Tambour has been refined and condensed into a thin, streamlined wristwatch that’s just 8.3 mm high. Sporting a touch of 1970s style, the new Tambour is equipped with the LFT023, an automatic movement featuring a micro-rotor. Representing the first of a new generation of Louis Vuitton movements, the LFT023 was developed by movement maker Le Cercle des Horlogers and features novel details like frosted bridges with relief borders and clear jewels. The new Tambour replaces all existing Tambour models, save for the high-end complications, like the automatons and minute repeaters, as well as the entry-level Street Diver. As a result, the once diverse and occasionally confusing offer of watches is rationalised to essentially three lines – Street Diver, the new Tambour, and complications. Initial thoughts Now 20 years old, the Tambour has been around long enough to become easily recognisable as Louis Vuitton’s trademark watch case. The original Tambour was an appealing design, particularly when paired with complications – I am personally a big fan of some complicated Tambour models – but it felt chunky even on a smaller scale. So the new Tambour is everything that the original was not – svelte and restrained. On its face it is not as recognisable as the original, but in profile it is clearly evolved from the original. The sl...

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Patek Philippe complications Jul 5, 2023

Highlights: Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fine Watches Online

The summer tends to be a quiet period in the watch world since most of Switzerland goes on holiday. However, Sotheby’s Hong Kong is staging one major event before the summer lull with an online sale running for just over a week. Fine Watches opens on July 5th and runs until the 14th featuring 272 lots ranging from Patek Philippe complications to simple time-only Cartier. We cover highlights from the sale below – the catalogue can be seen here – but before that we look at something special. Happening alongside the online auction is a sealed auction for an Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002P-013 with a custom-order black dial that runs online from July 13-21. The ref. 5002P once held the title of most complicated wristwatch Patek Philippe ever produced and remains a landmark in Patek Philippe watchmaking. Not only is this ref. 5002P possibly unique thanks to the striking black dial, it is also double sealed – in other words brand new. Since 2017 Patek Philippe has banned its retailers from selling sealed watches and so an double-sealed example of a special-order grand complication on the secondary market is rare. This double-dial complication offers an incredible opportunity to collectors, since the last time we saw this a sealed example of this reference at auction was back in 2018 at Antiquorum where it sold for just under US$1.2 million, and that was just single sealed. Prices have naturally climbed since then. In fact, this example mirrors the one that ...

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Vacheron Constantin Jul 4, 2023

T3 Special Watches Introduces Dague Time Dragon and Dague Guilloché

T3 Special Watches made its debut in 2021 with the Dague, a watch designed to embody the aesthetic preferences of its Italian founders, vintage watch dealer Andrea Marzari and watch aficionado Alessandro Poggi. Inspired by the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 and livened up with colourful, “Stella” style dials, the Dague has now been given an artisanal touch with the Dague Time Dragon and the Dague Guilloché. The newest iterations illustrate the brand’s ambitious attempts at fine enamelling and guilloché – the brand recruited noted enameller Vanessa Lecci for the cloisonné dial – techniques typically seen on pieces from more established brands.  Initial thoughts In the realm of micro-brands, it is uncommon to find traditional and artisanal guilloché and enamelling due to their high cost. Therefore, it was surprising to see T3 partnering with enameller Vanessa Lecci, renowned for her exceptional work for establishment brands like Cartier, Parmigiani Fleurier, Vacheron Constantin, and Voutilainen. The initial Dague series had a pleasant design that was not truly captivating for anyone not inclined towards a retro, Italian style. However, the new series showcases a significantly more compelling aesthetic. The enamelled dial of the Time Dragon, juxtaposed with the sector-styled outer disc, creates a visually striking contrast highly reminiscent of vintage watches with cloisonné dials made by Patek Philippe and Rolex. It would be exciting to witness the brand’...

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