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SJX Watches · Page 45

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Enamel Blue SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Jul 3, 2023

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Enamel Blue

Ulysse Nardin is introducing a more classical iteration of its affordable Freak to mark the 15th year of PMT The Hour Glass, a luxury watch retailer in Thailand. The Freak X Enamel Blue maintains the avant-garde styling of the model while introducing a touch of old school elegance with a captivating blue enamel dial embellished with vibrant guilloché. Initial thoughts Ulysse Nardin, known for its experimental designs, pleasantly surprises by integrating a champlevé enamel dial into a watch that is otherwise unabashedly modern. The standout feature is the dial that combines the artistry of enamelling and guilloché, made possible by the brand’s in-house dial factory. This infusion of classicism into the inherently contemporary watch results in an understated and surprisingly harmonious aesthetic. As is always the case with a novel limited edition, hopefully Ulysse Nardin will maintain the exclusivity of this design and refrain from replicating too much in future models. The Freak X Enamel Blue carries a price tag of US$40,100, almost twice the cost of the standard model. While the dial is traditional enamel – painted and fired by hand in other words – the construction and movement remain unchanged over the standard model, making the price hard to rationalise. 15th anniversary The Freak X edition commemorates the fifteenth anniversary of PMT The Hour Glass, a joint venture between local jeweller Prima Times (PMT) and Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass. Establish...

Cartier Introduces the Crash in Platinum SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre movement it replaces Cartier Jun 30, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Crash in Platinum

Cartier has returned to its most iconic, yet most elusive, design with the Crash London New Bond Street Exclusive. The new launch mirrors the Crash release of 2019 by keeping it exclusive to the New Bond Street boutique in London, only this time the case is in platinum. Initial thoughts A new Cartier Crash is always worth taking note of, especially when its design pays close attention to the original of 1967. While the brand has been noted for diligently recreating the looks from its past, none of them come close in terms of excitement among collectors than the Crash.  Following up the yellow gold version of four years ago with this platinum model was a smart move by the brand, and has put clear thought into how to execute it. Notably, the vintage “London” Crash was never available in platinum so this is not so much a remake as a reinterpretation of history – one but executed very well. From the form of the case to the layout of the dial and hands, Cartier has done their utmost to respect what Jean-Jacques Cartier and Rupert Emerson had first imagined and besides a perhaps slightly questionable placement of “Swiss made”, they appear to have done a fantastic job.  Not only has the dial design been slightly modified, but the brand has also updated the movement to use the cal. 1917 MC, perhaps an upgrade in terms of it being in house, though the construction of the cal. 1917 MC is not as sophisticated as the Jaeger-LeCoultre movement it replaces. Cartier has price...

In Focus: Voutilainen Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois” SJX Watches
Voutilainen Jun 30, 2023

In Focus: Voutilainen Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois”

Now best known for the Vingt-8 chronometer, particularly when combined with its exemplary and versatile guilloche work, Voutilainen also produces high complicated watches. Though the brand now largely focuses on the time-only Vingt-8, it once completed striking watches on a fairly regular basis. One of the best examples of such a chiming masterpiece is the Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois” that was delivered a decade ago, when Voutilainen was a far smaller operation centred on its founder, Kari Voutilainen. This unique repeater is now available at Phillips Perpetual in London. Quintessential Voutilainen Before he found the success that led to the current three-year waitlist for the Vingt-8, Mr Voutilainen made perhaps two dozen repeaters (compared to hundreds of time-only watches), all equipped with refinished vintage ebauches. Most were decimal repeaters that struck the time in ten-minute blocks, as opposed to the quarter strikes of convention repeaters, making time telling more intuitive. “L’Esprit du Bois” is one of the most elaborate of Mr Voutilainen’s chiming watches. Delivered in 2013, the watch combines a decimal repeater and second time zone display, all presented in the quintessential Voutilainen manner with a case featuring teardrop lugs and a dial finished with a variety of guilloche patterns. But it is distinguished by something special: the hinged case back is entirely relief engraved and enamelled with a motif drawn from Greek mythology. ...

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD & Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jun 29, 2023

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD & Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing”

Having signed on as a sponsor of America’s Cup contender Alinghi last year, Tudor now reveals a pair of watches created especially for the sailing team. The Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” both feature a carbon composite case – a first for Tudor – along with the functional design derived from the military-issue FXD dive watch. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of Tudor – its products are amongst the best value propositions across the entire industry – but its offerings have historically been limited in terms of design. In recent years the brand has gotten bolder in both styling and materials – the new pair demonstrate this. And if anything, they are probably the first of many more adventurous products from Tudor, something that is a natural evolution of the brand given the capacity of its big new manufacture. Although both stick to the design established by the original Pelagos FXD, they make it more interesting in terms of colour and a lot more interesting in terms of materials with the carbon composite case. The use of the lightweight composite will give both of them a featherweight presence on the wrist, despite the large case diameters of each. Despite the novelty in terms of materials, the new Pelagos FXD models remain squarely in Tudor’s favourite price segment. The time-only FXD costs a bit under US$3,700 while the chronograph is a little over US$5,000, making both strong value p...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch SJX Watches
Richard Mille Jun 29, 2023

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch

Continuing from the unique piece made for the previous edition of Only Watch, TAG Heuer again experiments with its racing model for the upcoming charity auction. The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch is the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph, and channels strong avant-garde styling. Initial thoughts Finally adding a mechanical split second chronograph to the brand’s capabilities is a significant step for a TAG Heuer, who stand on their history of producing sporting chronographs. In contrast to the Monaco Carbon from 2021, the watch exhibits a significantly bolder aesthetic, aligning more closely with what one would expect from Richard Mille. However, unlike its counterpart, TAG Heuer’s approach to skeletonisation is tastefully restrained, focusing on a minimalist display rather than an overtly flashy appearance. One potential drawback of this release is the auction estimate, which ranges from CHF150,000 to CHF300,000. The inclusion of the new calibre and the utilisation of premium materials can justify the higher price. However, it is worth noting that the price point is consistent with what last year’s model achieved, which was CHF290,000, despite only having an estimate of between CHF50,000 to CHF100,000.  The winning bidder of this watch will also get a VIP experience of the Monaco Grand Prix next year, with access to the TAG Heuer hospitality suite, among other experiences over the weekend.  Avant-garde design Expertly mergi...

Barbier-Mueller Returns with the Mosaïque II SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – Jun 29, 2023

Barbier-Mueller Returns with the Mosaïque II

In 2017, the original Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque made its first public appearance at Only Watch. The collaborative efforts of longtime friends Stéphane Barbier-Mueller and François-Paul Journe, one being the preeminent independent watchmaker and the other a member of one of a Swiss real estate dynasty, this was an unexpected and rather pleasant surprise. Now, the pair have returned with the Mosaïque II, follow up to their initial offering, sticking to the same principles as before, but with the eye of watch designer Eric Giroud.  Initial thoughts Those who are fans of the original will be pleased to see all of the main traits have been carried over to this latest version. The stone work on the dial, case and hinged caseback is all there, and the two hander runs on the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – in fact, it is essentially an elaborately inlaid Chronomètre Souverain. If anything, they have elevated their previous efforts by incorporating more types of semi-precious stones in order to execute Mr. Giroud’s design. While Mr Giroud’s eye has given the Mosaïque II a different feel from its predecessor, the new watch still reflects Mr Barbier-Mueller’s interest in arts and culture, which was the basis for the original Mosaïque. Besides being a shareholder in F.P. Journe, Mr Barbier-Mueller is also a member of the family that established the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva that’s famous for its world-class collection of tribal art. The original M...

F.P. Journe Introduces the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2023” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Jun 29, 2023

F.P. Journe Introduces the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2023”

The Chronomètre Bleu has taken on somewhat of a cult status among the followers of F.P. Journe. So much so that it has leaked out beyond the brand’s group of core supporters to become one of the most sought after watches on the primary and secondary market today. This year, for Only Watch, F.P. Journe has decided to revisit this popular design and reimagine it as the Chronomètre Bleu Furtif Bleu, which is also a debut for an entirely new calibre.  Initial thoughts While the Chronomètre Bleu is known for being popular among the wider watch community, F.P. Journe’s LineSport models still divide opinion, so combining the sport watch case with the eye-catching dial of the Chronomètre Bleu is a bold choice. Of course, as with everything that F.P. Journe does it is never completely straight forward, the dial on the Furtif Bleu is not a copy of what you see in the Chronomètre Bleu, instead it is translucent enamel with the numbers laser engraved for a matte finish. The one fault I can see with the design of these numerals is the oddly small “6” so as to accommodate “émail”. This feels like it throws the balance off ever so slightly.  The aim of this watch appears to be to make it hard to read, with the very name of it making reference to it being difficult to read unless the dial is directly facing you. While the romantic view of this being that it makes telling time an entirely personal activity, it could also just lead to difficulty whenever in low light set...

Patek Philippe Announces “Tribute to Philippe Stern” for Only Watch 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Announces “Tribute Jun 29, 2023

Patek Philippe Announces “Tribute to Philippe Stern” for Only Watch 2023

Patek Philippe has a history at Only Watch of producing groundbreaking Grand Complications, displaying what it is capable of at the highest end of watchmaking. The table clock from 2021 or the Grandmaster Chime from 2019 both exemplify these virtues. And it would appear that it is going to continue down this road with this year’s instalment as it introduces a Grand Complication in tribute to Philippe Stern, Patek Phillippe Honorary President and father to the brand’s current President, Thierry Stern.  Philippe Stern (left) and Thierry Stern (right). While the details of this piece are currently lacking somewhat, the brand has announced that it has developed an entirely new movement for this watch and it features Philippe Stern’s favourite Grand Complication.  This will not just be a one off either, the first one made will be of a unique design and auctioned at Only Watch, but after that Patek will go on to produce 30 more, in a strictly limited run, after which the movement will never be used again.  This November Philippe Stern is set to turn 85, his son was quoted saying this about the upcoming watch, “this is a way of thanking him for everything he taught me and all the passion for excellence that he deployed in favour of Patek Philippe.” There will be more details about this watch to follow, with the auction being conducted by Christie’s at Palexpo in Geneva on November 5. 

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jun 29, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”

Audemars Piguet (AP) is taking part in Only Watch for the fourth time with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41 mm “Only Watch”. In contrast to the low-key Royal Oak “Jumbo” made for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction, this year’s one-off creation is exceptionally striking in blue and white. The latest Royal Oak “Only Watch” is based on the regular-production Royal Oak skeleton tourbillon but made unique with a white ceramic case and bracelet along with a movement featuring blued titanium bridges and plates. The case and bracelet material is notably uncommon for AP. While the brand has a fair number of Royal Oak models in black ceramic, there are fewer in white ceramic. In fact, there is only one regular production model in white ceramic, the perpetual calendar. In the past, there were also a handful of Royal Oak Offshore models in white ceramic, including a chronograph and Diver. According to AP, one of the notable features of the bracelet is not only the material, but also that fact that is secured with “invisible pins”. This presumably means the pins holding the bracelet together are concealed with ceramic caps. The cal. 2972 inside is open worked in an angular, stylised manner that is very much AP’s house style. The bridges and base plate are blued titanium, while the bevels of the movement retain the natural grey colour of titanium for contrast, giving each of the bridges a pronounced outline. The rotor is 22k gold but ...

Tudor Introduces the Prince Chronograph One Prototype for Only Watch 2023 SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jun 29, 2023

Tudor Introduces the Prince Chronograph One Prototype for Only Watch 2023

Foreshadowing a return of the famous “Big Block” chronograph from 1976, Tudor has unveiled the Prince Chronograph One for Only Watch 2023. Featuring a striking 18k yellow gold case and matching bracelet, the Prince Chronograph One debuts Tudor’s first-ever in-house chronograph movement, the MT59XX – making it the first and only Tudor watch sold publicly to contain a yet-to-be-released prototype movement. Initial thoughts The Prince Chronograph One is an interesting debut for Tudor in many ways. Not only is it an attractive and well-conceived watch in its own right, it’s likely a sign of things to come, particularly with regards to the all-new in-house movement. Tudor’s prior Only Watch entries features unusual materials such as ceramic, bronze, and patinated steel; the Prince Chronograph One continues this trend. Tudor doesn’t often make watches in precious metals – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18k is an exception – leaving that lane open for its sibling Rolex. The 42 mm case and bracelet of this unique piece are crafted from 18k yellow gold, and the screw-down crown and pushers are particularly faithful to those of the original “Big Block” and its sibling, the Rolex Daytona 6263. And it shows remarkable attention to detail that Tudor opted to produce its adjustable T-Fit clasp in 18k yellow gold for this one-off piece. The pairing of a yellow gold case with a black dial and bezel is also timely given the surging interest in the Rolex Daytona “Paul Ne...

Rexhep Rexhepi Introduces the Chronomètre Antimagnétique SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Jun 29, 2023

Rexhep Rexhepi Introduces the Chronomètre Antimagnétique

One of the most anticipated creations by an independent watchmaker at Only Watch 2023 is the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique. Almost certainly amongst the most valuable watches in the sale, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is a time-only wristwatch in stainless steel containing a Faraday cage to protect the against magnetism. It is the third timepiece created by Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Akrivia, for the biennial charity auction. Though the specifics of the watch remain under wraps, a few facts have been revealed in the announcement. The dial will be “sector” or “scientific” style, while the case is stainless steel and made by the workshop of Jean-Pierre Hagmann. Classically proportioned in the typical Rexhep Rexhepi style, the case measures 38 mm by 9.95 mm. Interestingly, the case features a double back comprised of an inner sapphire back and an outer back that can be unscrewed by the wearer. And most importantly, the movement is a new construction. While the Chronomètre Contemporain I and Chronomètre Contemporain II that Rexhep Rexhepi created for past instalments of Only Watch were variants of standard models, the RRCA is equipped with a calibre developed from the ground up for the model. The RRCCII calibre inside the timepiece made for Only Watch 2021 While I can’t say any more about the watch, I can state that the RRCA deftly combines historical inspiration drawn from the magnetism-resistant watches made by the great watchmakers of Gen...

Insight: What’s Next for the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement? SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement? Jun 27, 2023

Insight: What’s Next for the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement?

In an era of modern and accessible digital technology, the utilitarian role of mechanical timekeepers has inevitably dwindled. Yet, it is still pursued as a luxury of an artform – either of the highest finishing by hand that can’t be performed by machines, or the research and development in making a mechanical timepiece – in particular wristwatches – as accurate as possible.  One of these horological pursuits, to preserve the accuracy of mechanical wristwatches, is the supply of a constant force to the escapement. To isolate the varying torque as a mainspring gradually unwinds, some haute horlogerie watches today incorporate either a fusée-and-chain or a remontoir, which supplies a steady torque to the escapement for stable timekeeping.  However, there is one particularly novel take on constant force released by Girard-Perregaux, in the form of a proprietary escapement. First unveiled as a prototype in SIHH 2008, the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement has a patented, double escape wheel system that is designed from the ground up to inherently have a built-in constant force system, thus eliminating the need of a remontoir or a fusée-and-chain.   Despite being first created 15 years ago, Girard-Perregaux (GP) is still further developing the escapement today, with a new set of patented improvements publicly available – strongly hinting at a revamped model in the near future. These patents make it worth a deep dive into the original Constant Escapement (CE) fr...

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Massena LAB SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Jun 27, 2023

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Massena LAB

Louis Erard has once again joined forces with Massena LAB for another take on a common complication. Le Chronographe Monopoussoir draws inspiration from 19th century pocket watches and continues with the styling from the first time these two brands collaborated.  Initial thoughts Louis Erard’s brand identity is continually shaped and defined by its many partnerships. Its latest collaboration with Massena LAB continues this creative streak with a relatively classical complication in the form of a mono-pusher chronograph.  Building upon their collaboration from last year, the latest timepiece has kept the distinctive grained dial that is industrially finished but well executed. They have opted for a more restrained design by having just a single register at twelve, deviating from the traditional two- or three-register configuration of most chronographs. Despite the minimalist aesthetic, the watch is very big at 43 mm wide and 15.7 mm thick. The thickness in particular is a lot and the size may turn some people off. The carries a substantial presence on the wrist, arguably too much for a watch of this style. One reason for the size is the movement, which is the same Sellita calibre found in all Louis Erard chronographs, including the Alain Silberstein iteration. For that reason, it also remains in the same price range, with a retail of US$4,950, making it fair value as an interesting yet affordable chronograph. At the same time, this distinguishes itself through the class...

Andersen Genève Introduces the Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition SJX Watches
Jun 27, 2023

Andersen Genève Introduces the Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition

The Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition adds another shade to the Andersen Genève collection that places dial-work above all else with its expensive, hand-made guilloché dial. Having initially been released to mark the brand’s 40th anniversary back in 2020 with a blue gold dial, the new jumping hours retains same dial but instead does it in pink gold. It celebrates the independent brand’s long-standing relationship with its Japanese clients, being created to celebrate this deep bond. Initial thoughts It is only possible to start and finish discussing this model by talking about the dial. It has more of a dominating presence than you will find on most other watches simply because there is so much dial. Originally done in blue gold, the dial is now in a “salmon” shade might seem a little old hat to many as it has been tagged as a trendy colour for several years now. Though the dial colour feels a little passé since it has been done so often, the dial is still impressively executed in terms of quality. The link between the dial colour and Japan is less obvious. The company’s chief executive, Pierre-Alexandre Aeschlimann, told us the brand did not consult with anyone in Japan about this design of the jumping hours. Still, Japanese collectors have long been trendsetters with a love for independent watchmaking, particularly in the 1980s and 1990s, so it comes as no surprise that Andersen Genève continues to see them as a valuable market. During that period, Andersen G...

Habring2 Introduces the Chrono-Felix Top-Second SJX Watches
Zenith Jun 26, 2023

Habring2 Introduces the Chrono-Felix Top-Second

Habring² continues its focus on affordable, interesting complications with the Chrono-Felix Top-Second. Dressed in a retro-military dial, the Top-Second is powered by the brand’s proprietary A11 movement like all Habring² watches. But it features a new (old) complication, the “Top Second”, essentially a running seconds indicator camouflaged within the “9” hour marker. Initial thoughts The Top-Second encapsulates the Habring² specialty of well-priced and interesting watches. It’s a chronograph with a complication that is the only one of its kind in modern-day watchmaking and priced under US$9,000 including 20% Austrian tax. That makes it excellent value – as is typical of Habring² – particularly considering the proprietary movement. Granted, the 1930s-military styling of the watch is fairly generic, though appealing in its functional nature. That said, Habring² is versatile when it comes to design and the brand typically unveils variations of its models so it is likely the Top-Second will return in other guises soon. Honest, affordable, and interesting First introduced in the 1960s by Mondia, a brand soon after acquired by Zenith, the Top Second is a discreet running seconds indicator. A coloured disc spins beneath a small aperture on the dial, showing that the seconds are passing and the movement is running without the need for a constant seconds hand. The Habring² take on the complication operates on the same principles as the Mondia original. A prop...

Tissot Introduces the PRX Powermatic 80 35 mm SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Jun 22, 2023

Tissot Introduces the PRX Powermatic 80 35 mm

Tissot’s PRX Powermatic 80 has quickly gained popularity since its introduction more than three years ago as it offers the popular integrated-bracelet aesthetic at an affordable price point.  In March, the brand added new dial options to the collection, and now it has added more horological power to the smallest model that’s 35 mm in diameter and was previously only available with a quartz movement. Initial thoughts A slightly disappointing aspect of the PRX collection was the fact that the 35 mm model only had a quartz movement, until now. Now anyone who wants a mechanical movement in a more wearable size is catered for.  The overall design of the watch, including its waffle-pattern dial and brushed steel case, remains largely unchanged – a good thing since it is precisely these elements that first captured people’s attention in the first place. The green version stands out as a personal favourite among the new models and I expect it will be a strong seller overall given the popularity of the colour now. Starting at US$695 and going up to US$750 for the mother-of-pearl dial, the new 35 mm models are slightly pricier than the original. While the increase in price is perhaps linked to inflation, compared to many of the other integrated bracelet sports watches on the market, it still offers great value for the overall feel it gives. Now at 35 mm The latest version of the PRX collection introduces a remarkable decrease in size when compared to the original model whi...

Hervé Schlüchter Debuts with L’Essentiel Regulator SJX Watches
Jun 22, 2023

Hervé Schlüchter Debuts with L’Essentiel Regulator

The latest watchmaker to launch a time-only watch with a finely finished movement is Hervé Schlüchter, who makes his debut with the L’Essentiel. A watchmaker who spent most of his recent career as a movement constructor at Bovet, Mr Schlüchter’s entry into the progressively more crowded segment features a regulator-style display with a day-and-night indicator and on the reverse, a hand-finished movement. Initial thoughts Having worked at Bovet and then spent time studying with Philippe Dufour, Mr Schlüchter has the background for a fine watch. Notably, Mr Schlüchter is an actual watchmaker, having trained as a watchmaker and repairer. As a result, the L’Essentiel is arguably purer in concept since it was developed and then produced by a watch-maker, rather than being drawn by a designer or engineer and then outsourced to specialists. The L’Essentiel lives up to expectations in terms of decoration and construction. It has impressively high quality in most respects: the dial is engine turned by hand, and includes fired enamel, and aventurine. The movement shows off lots of black-polished steel, chamfered edges, and polished countersinks. At CHF78,000 before taxes, the L’Essentiel has a decent price-to-quality ratio. But while watch is titled “The Essential”, it is ironically a lot, maybe too much, both stylistically and tangibly. As is increasingly the case with independent watchmaking, the product feels contrived because it wants to be everything that is ...

Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 21, 2023

Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm

Originally introduced in 42 mm last year, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time now gets a more comfortable 39 mm case. The new variant retains all the appealing design elements of the original that are loosely inspired by the brand’s first dual time zone watch from 1925, including the legible dial and a vintage-style, bi-directional bezel. Initial thoughts The Spirit Zulu Time is a great example of how to execute a vintage-style watch. However, a significant drawback was the large, 42 mm size of the original, which was quite hefty on the wrist and not quite suited to the retro style. Longines clearly recognised this issue and responded surprisingly quickly in introducing a more wearable size. While the 39 mm size is certainly positive, the case thickness of 13.5 mm leaves it notably thick relative to the diameter; the thickness is comparable to some automatic chronographs. As a result, it may feel clunky on the wrist for some. That said, the reason for the case height is fundamental: the watch is powered by the same movement as the original.   Still, the Spirit Zulu Time continues to be an excellent value proposition, starting at US$3,050 in steel while the steel and gold model is US$4,200. The fact that the Zulu Time is a genuine GMT with an independent local-time hour hand makes it a standout amongst affordable dual-time zone watches. Although it may fall short in terms of movement sophistication compared to the similarly-priced Tudor Black Bay GMT, it has the advantage of ...

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry SJX Watches
Schwarz Etienne Introduces Jun 19, 2023

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry

While historically a movement and components supplier, Schwarz Etienne has produced timepieces under its own name for some years now. Some of its watches feature original designs with a touch of traditional watchmaking, an example being the recent collaboration with independent watchmaker Voutilainen.  Now, it is continuing the collaborative design approach in its latest release, the Geometry. Unveiled as a limited edition in two colourways, this collection showcases a dial penned by Eric Giroud, the designer best known for his work for contemporary brands like MB&F;. Described as “deconstructed”, his dial design takes inspiration from the branch of mathematics that’s all about precise alignment and arrangement of lines to form shapes. Initial thoughts In recent years, a growing number of watch brands, including Louis Erard and Bulgari, have embraced geometric dial designs to produce some standouts in their collections. As evident in its latest creation, Schwarz Etienne also aligns with this trend. What sets the Geometry apart is the combination of traditional decoration with modernist style in its contrasting utilisation of fluted lines and clous de Paris patterns. Between the two iterations, the silver dial is particularly captivating. The subtle contrast between the textures and colours are simultaneously cohesive and balanced, creating something pleasing and elegant out of what could be a very busy dial. With a price tag of US$23,490, the Geometry is expensive i...

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe” SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Jun 16, 2023

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”

Having made a splash with the release of the Ingenieur back in March, IWC now returns with an addition to its military-inspired aviator’s watch collection with the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”. While IWC is no stranger to ceramic as a case material, this is the first time the signature IWC perpetual calendar has been combined with white ceramic, certainly one of the brand’s most popular case materials. Initial thoughts Since its 2022 debut, the Colours of Top Gun collection – comprised of pilot’s watches with cases in coloured ceramic other than black – has consistently been a bestseller. The white ceramic chronograph in particular was especially sought after, enough that it sold for above the retail price on the secondary market for a brief period. Therefore, it is no surprise that IWC has now introduced a white ceramic perpetual calendar, adding the popular case material to its trademark complication. Fans of the perpetual calendar will not be disappointed since the dial design sticks to a tried-and-tested formula. The overall aesthetics, however, are striking. The juxtaposition of the matte black dial and white ceramic transforms the often elegant complication into something sportier and cooler. On the other hand, owners of the Top Gun chronograph in white ceramic might be disappointed that the material is no longer unique to that model, but it was practically a given IWC would launch more white ceramic models given the comme...

Tissot Introduces the Sideral SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Jun 15, 2023

Tissot Introduces the Sideral

Fun, affordable, and well-equipped, the Sideral is a surprisingly interesting entry-level sports watch from Tissot. Where many recent sports watches been Genta-inspired with integrated bracelets – Tissot’s own PRX among them – the Sideral reminds us that the 70s were a time of broader experimentation for the Swiss watch industry, in terms of both design and materials. Based on the playful and quirky Sideral S from 1971, the newSideral is not a one-to-one remake of the original. Instead, it’s been smartly updated in both design and functionality. While the original Sideral S featured a fiberglass case, then a world first, the reissue has a more contemporary carbon composite case. With its clever use of lume plus a regatta countdown bezel, the Sideral packs a surprising amount of character for the price. The original Sideral S from 1971 (lower left) next to the new Sideral. Initial thoughts Heritage remakes have become a common trope in the luxury watch industry over the past few years, but brands have mostly focused on bringing back their most timeless and iconic designs from the 1950s and 1960s; the Tudor Black Bay 54 is a perfect example. In this context, the launch of the funky Sideral is a breath of fresh air, since the original design is comparatively obscure and likely unknown to many contemporary enthusiasts.  The dial itself is generously and playfully lumed, with four different colours of Super-LumiNova across the collection to bring it to life in the dark...

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Richard Mille Jun 14, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary”

Breitling is introducing a luxe variation of its flagship chronograph to mark the tenth year of S&S; Group, a luxury retailer that represents brands ranging from Rolls Royce to Richard Mille in Vietnam. The Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary” Limited Edition is making its debut just in time for the opening of the Breitling boutique in the Vietnamese capital, Hanoi. Initial thoughts Highlighting its focus on Southeast Asia, it comes as no surprise that Breitling has unveiled another edition of its trademark chronograph, following the Singapore Airlines edition from last year. But instead of a mere change of colour as it usually does, Breitling has employed mother-of-pearl for the dial, an unusual material for the brand but one that adds a touch of extravagance to an otherwise functional pilot’s watch.  The mother-of-pearl dial instantly sets this apart from the standard Navitimer, particularly with the red gold case. Perhaps the only thing missing is the retailer’s logo on the dial, a detail that would hark back to the double-signed dials that are desirable in vintage watches.  Priced at US$21,800, the S&S; Navitimer is slightly more expensive than the standard production model in rose gold that has a plain, cream dial. This increase can primarily be attributed to the mother-of-pearl dial and seems fairly proportional for the upgrade in dial material. Tenth anniversary This Navitimer edition celebrates the tenth year of S&S; Group, which was founded in 2013 as the s...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Rare Handcrafts Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 12, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the Rare Handcrafts Tokyo 2023

True to form, Patek Philippe has debuted more than a dozen new timepieces from its Rare Handcrafts collection at the brand’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo. Reserved exclusively for the Japanese market, the new collection includes dome clocks, table clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches. Featuring traditional Japanese motifs, the new releases reflect Patek Philippe’s expertise in a range of precious crafts and techniques, including marquetry, guilloché, and various forms of enamelling including Grand Feu cloisonné, paillonné, flinqué, and grisaille enamel.  The event is taking place at the Sankaku Hiroba expo centre in Shinjuku and runs from now until June 25, 2023. Admission is free and no registration is required to attend. Detail of the ref. 995/134G-001 “Shizuoka and Mount Fuji” pocket watch Dome clocks and table clocks When it comes to Patek’s Rare Handcrafts, nothing serves as a better backdrop for an artist’s skills than the brand’s iconic dome clocks. Measuring 213.5 mm tall and 128 mm in diameter, each clock is powered by the mechanical cal. 17’’’ PEND, which is conveniently rewound by an electric motor. While I often find that miniature paintings on wristwatch dials can look cramped at such a small scale, the large panels of a dome clock provide ample space for more dynamic compositions. Case in point is the Dome Clock ref. 20137M-001 “Hanami”, which uses Grand Feu cloisonné enamel to depict the Japanese custom of appreciatin...

Rolex Introduces the Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans” Ref. 126529LN SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans” Ref. 126529LN

Having surprised everyone with the Perpetual 1908, “Bubbles”, and “Puzzles”, Rolex continues to do the unexpected. Launched to mark the 100th year of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, the Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126529 LN is a new model based on the latest-generation Daytona launched earlier this year. But the Daytona “Le Mans” is not merely a facelifted chronograph but contains the cal. 4132. The new movement swaps out the conventional 12-hour counter at nine for a 24-hour register in a nod to the famous endurance race that Rolex has sponsored for over two decades. But perhaps most pertinent for enthusiasts are sub-dials, which are modelled on the vintage Daytona “Paul Newman”. And while availability for the Daytona “Le Mans” will be limited, at least initially, it is a regular-production model that will be available at retailers and boutiques. Initial thoughts A new Daytona with a new movement is big news not because it’s majorly different – this is still very much a Daytona – but because Rolex rarely introduces new models outside of the annual watch fair in Switzerland. And when it does, the watch tends to be a surprise in more ways than one. The new Daytona is actually new, largely because contains a new calibre, a simple variation of the current Daytona movement, but one that is mechanically different nonetheless. The movement reflects the Rolex approach to engineering that does nothing in half measures. Even though the cal. 4132 inside the Daytona ...

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014 Tokyo 2023

Amongst the special editions created for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo is the World Time Minute Repeater Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5531R-014. The ref. 5531R-014 is the more complicated of the two world time models that mark the event – the other is the ref. 5330G – and features a cloisonné enamel dial. The dial continues with the motif first found on the ref. 5531R-010 made for the Grand Exhibition 2019 that took place in Singapore. Its centre is cloisonné enamel depicting a stylised map of the Chuo ward in central Tokyo, including the expansive grounds of Imperial Palace on the upper left. Initial thoughts Unlike the other two Grand Exhibition Tokyo 2023 complications – Quad Comp ref. 5308P and World Time ref. 5330G – that are new references containing new calibres, the ref. 5531R is a variant of a regular-production model. So while it less interesting from that perspective, the ref. 5531R-014 is still an compelling watch. The cloisonné map is an unusual motif for a dial, and almost abstract at a distance, but interesting and appealing. The watch does have intrinsic appeal, however, it also does look similar to the ref. 5531R-010 made for the 2019 Grand Exhibition in Singapore. In fact, the two are probably indistinguishable from across a room. Doing something more distinctive, for instance another case metal and dial colour, would have made this more unique. A bird’s eye view of Tokyo The cloisonné enamel dial captures the Ch...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Tokyo 2023

The flagship model in Patek Philippe’s special edition line-up for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, the Quadruple Complication Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5308P-010 is an entirely new reference that becomes one of the most complicated watches in the Patek Philippe catalogue. Described as a quadruple complication because it has a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and a twin chronograph, the ref. 5308P is a direct evolution of the ref. 5208. Both are essentially alike, save for the addition of the split-seconds mechanism in the ref. 5308P. Initial thoughts Like all of Patek Philippe’s top-of-the-line grand comps, the ref. 5308P is an imposing and heavy watch that makes a statement on the wrist (unlike the relatively compact ref. 5330G World Time created for the same event). And with the “rose-gilt opaline” dial, this is also visually striking and definitely hard to miss. Though it might seem similar to the ref. 5208, with only an additional seconds hand to set them apart, the ref. 5308P incorporates some interesting technical tweaks, including a revised isolator mechanism for the split seconds. Still, like the ref. 5208, the ref. 5308P is a modular grand complication with the perpetual calendar and split-seconds chronographs made up of modules stacked up under the dial. This is arguably a less sophisticated solution then an integrated chronograph (a perpetual calendar is conventionally a module regardless). Four comps The ref. 5308P has a dial in “ro...

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Tokyo 2023

Having just opened the doors of the Watch Art Grand Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, Patek Philippe also revealed the special editions created for the event, including the World Time Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5330G-10. Limited to 300 watches available only in Japan, the ref. 5330G-010 is the brand’s first world time with a date display. It features a guilloche dial in purple, the thematic hue of the exhibition, along with subtle references to Japan on the dial. Initial thoughts While the ref. 5330G-010 is not the flagship complication of the Watch Art Tokyo 2023 event – that title is claimed by the ref. 5308P Quadruple Complication – the new World Time is quintessential Patek Philippe. For one, the world time complication, though not invented by Patek Philippe, is strongly associated with the brand. At the same time, the date display is both practical and incorporated in an elegant manner, while the mechanics behind the date are sophisticated and thin as is typical of the brand’s approach to movements. Also in its favour are the discreet and tasteful references to Japan on the dial. But while the plum dial is striking and rich, the colour might not be for everyone. But putting aside the colour, the ref. 5330G-010 is an appealing watch. It is limited to just 300 pieces sold only in Japan, which makes availability at retail non-existent for most, but fortunately the ref. 5330 will almost certainly make it into the catalogue as a regular production model, as past exhi...

Editorial: All the Fuss Over a “Franken” Omega Speedmaster SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Earlier Jun 9, 2023

Editorial: All the Fuss Over a “Franken” Omega Speedmaster

Earlier this week, leading Swiss-German newspapers Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) published a lengthy story about the possible fraud behind the record-setting sale of an Omega Speedmaster ref. 2915-1 at Phillips in 2021. Mystifying at the time, the CHF3.12 million result was a huge number that far exceeded past records for that particular Speedmaster. As NZZ revealed in its story, the Speedmaster in question was a “Franken” watch pieced together from assorted vintage components – and some fake parts – and it was purchased by Omega itself, on the advice of its then museum head. The allegations are that the then museum head was in cahoots with the seller of the watch. Omega has gone to the police with this, and also released a statement, noting in part, “Omega and Phillips were the joint victims of organised criminal activity involving the selling of this specific watch by auction.” The Omega Museum, which fortunately has enough correct and legitimate vintage Speedmasters on display. Image – Omega Both Omega and Phillips should have done more due diligence, but it appears a few bad actors were diligent in allegedly defrauding Omega. For more on the matter, Dutch watch publication Fratello published an excellent examination of the happenings. The alleged fraud has been covered widely in the mass media, from Bloomberg to Fortune, ironically the same publications that last year touted the success and value-appreciation of the Speedmaster. Mountains and molehills The ...

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph

Drawing inspiration from the Kinetic Chronograph of 1999, Seiko’s latest is the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph. It is equipped with a new solar movement that has the ability to measure elapsed time with a resolution of up to 1/100th of a second, though its defining attribute is the design: the chronograph and time displays are separated into individual sub-dials. The SFJ007 made for the 2023 World Athletics Championships Initial thoughts Seiko’s sports chronographs, particularly those equipped with quartz or solar-powered movements, receive less recognition than their higher-end counterparts. However, some of the brand’s recent endeavours in this segment are interesting, and this is one of them. The primary point of interest in the new model lies in its unique aesthetic with a separated sub-dial design that fans of the brand recognise from the Kinetic Chronograph. The new Speedtimer reimagines the design with a smart and highly-functional movement and price tag of well under US$1,000, making it a compelling option for someone seeking an affordable sports chronograph. The Kinetic Chronograph from 1999. Image – Seiko Up to 1/100th of a second Having done away with the original closed dial of the Kinetic Chronograph, the Speedtimer features four registers beneath a curved sapphire crystal. Positioned at six is an oversized sub-dial displaying the time, while a 1/10th of a second chronograph sits at ten. The running seconds can be observed at 12, and a ...

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Jun 7, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph

Two years ago, Louis Vuitton unveiled the Tambour Street Diver, a livelier iteration of its longstanding Tambour dive watch. Now the brand debuts the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph, adding further a stopwatch to the nautical-inspired aesthetic. Together, the two Street Divers now form the entry-level of the brand’s mechanical watch offerings, which progress upwards into seven-figure, minute-repeater-with-automaton territory. Initial thoughts The new chronograph is a natural progression from its predecessor, retaining the elements of a traditional dive watch, including a less-common inner rotating bezel, while incorporating Louis Vuitton’s bold and modern styling, including the tall, drum-shaped case. The design is as much “street” as it is “diver”, and very much in keeping with the brand’s aesthetic. Both the case and dial are executed well, although the two-tone case might not be to everyone’s taste. Enthusiasts, however, will note the ETA movement inside. The movement is reliable and robust, though the US$11,105 price tag deserves a more interesting calibre. That said, given Louis Vuitton’s well-funded ambitions in watchmaking, it is a certainty that the brand will soon roll out in-house calibres in all price segments of its catalogue. Nautically inspired The new chronograph available in two variations: Skyline Blue (blue with metallic sun-ray finish) and Neon Black (matte black), each matched with a case colour in the same colour. Both have the same ...