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Feb 13, 2020

MHD Watches Introduces the Automotive-Inspired SA2

Founded by a former car designer, Matthew Humphries Design (MHD) unsurprisingly sells automobile-inspired watches. The most original to date is the SA2, a time-only automatic with a distinctive case that seems familiar but is novel in form. MHD was founded in 2014 by Matthew Humphries, who, at age 21, became head of design at Morgan Motor Company, the maker of lightweight, retro sports cars that are hand-assembled and distinctly British. Amongst his creations during his stint at Morgan were the Aeromax, Aero SuperSports as well as the peculiar yet cool 3-Wheeler. Unsurprisingly given Morgan’s quirky and compact cars that still use wood for the body frame, the SA2 is slightly retro, while being notably refined and clean for a watch designed on the automotive-theme – one that is often characterised by eccentric, aesthetically-charged watches. A restrained use of colour allows the design of the SA2 to speak for itself. “Exoskeleton chassis case” Available in three different variants, the SA2’s defining feature is undoubtedly its case. While the outline is the common cushion form – at a glance it might be mistaken for yet another retro, cushion-shaped watch – the case is actually a skeletonised frame holding the case middle, a construction inspired by the chassis of a lightweight race car. Composed of four parts, the round case middle is supported by a thin, cushion-shaped frame with fixed bars at each end for the strap. Wide but slim, the case measures 41mm by 4...

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Hamilton According Feb 13, 2020

Business News: Swatch Group Takes Legal Action Against COMCO

Just before the new year, Swiss competition regulator COMCO, also known by its German acronym Weko, announced a provisional suspension of ETA’s right to sell movements to third-party brands. Once the dominant supplier of mechanical movements in Switzerland, ETA and its parent Swatch Group have been embroiled in a decades-long dispute with COMCO over the movement maker’s allegedly anticompetitive practices. Now the dispute between Switzerland’s largest watchmaking group and COMCO has taken a fresh turn with the Swatch Group filing a complaint with the Swiss federal court on January 20, demanding a repeal of COMCO’s decision to suspend sales, a move first reported by Swiss newspaper Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ). An example of an ETA movement with upgraded features that ETA only supplies to sister brands; seen here inside a Hamilton According to the competition agency, the suspension of sales is meant to further weaken ETA’s market power as a major movement supplier, while allowing space for other movement suppliers to ramp up production and build their order books. The suspension remains in force until summer 2020, when COMCO will reach a final verdict on ETA’s rights and obligations. COMCO did allow a narrow exception to the ban, allowing ETA to sell its movements to small- and medium-sized watch brands that are existing clients. But the exception came a stipulation: Swatch Group has to treat all clients equally, which means selling movements to one small brand...

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Montblanc Feb 13, 2020

Hands-On: Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT

With an annual output of just over four million watches, Tissot is Switzerland’s largest watchmaker by volume, with the bulk of its watches being affordable and quartz. But it has also carved out a niche with equally affordable mechanical watches starting at a bit under US$400 for the Swissmatic (a close relative of the Swatch Sistem51 movement). One step up is the Powermatic 80, an automatic movement that more closely resembles a traditional calibre – with more metal components and less plastic bits. A complicated model within the family, if it can be called that, is the Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT. It’s a dual time zone automatic starting at just US$875 – a value proposition that is also unusual in being one of the few GMT watches price below US$1,000. Chemin des Tourelles is the street in Le Locle where Tissot has had its factory since 1907 (though the brand was founded in 1853), sitting beside the facilities of Mido, Montblanc, and Vulcain. Unsurprisingly, the Chemin des Tourelles GMT is traditionally styled, though surprisingly large; the collection also includes a similarly affordable time-only automatic as well as a chronograph. The case is simple in form but appealing, with a surprising degree of detailing. The look is enhanced by the polished bevel on the outside edge of the lugs, which also have a notch where they join the case. And the case and bezel also have contrasting brushes and polished surfaces, making the whole more visually in...

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Feb 12, 2020

Hands-On: Avantist La Majesté Tourbillon

Now four years old, Avantist was founded by Bruneian entrepreneur Keeran Janin and probably most famous for its tennis watches that incorporate string taken from the racquet used by Martina Navratilova when she won Wimbledon 1987. The brand has since diversified into other memorabilia timepieces, including one that contains strings from one of John Mayer’s guitars and another featuring threads from the national flag flown on the day of the Sultan of Brunei’s coronation. But Avantist’s most notable timepieces are the series of skeleton tourbillon watches that are entirely customisable, the La Majesté Tourbillon. These custom watches have so far been created for notable personalities, including sportsmen and heads of state; the first example – the model name translates as “His Majesty” – was conceived for the Sultan of Brunei. Powered by a hand-wound, skeleton movement from complications specialist Concepto, the La Majeste is customisable in its entirety, from the case and movement material to the design of the barrel ratchet wheel. Though the La Majeste is yet another watch in the sporty-skeleton-tourbillon genre, it manages to be a different take on a familiar look. At the same time, it combines an interesting movement with a surprisingly light and tactile feel in the hand. Thoughtfully detailed From design to production, the La Majeste Tourbillon is the work of leading names in Swiss watchmaking, most notably with Concepto supplying the movement. Best kno...

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TAG Heuer Feb 11, 2020

Breaking News: Bulgari Exits Baselworld 2020

Barely a month after the inaugural LVMH Watch Week in Dubai, Bulgari has announced it is out of Baselworld 2020, citing the “Coronavirus pandemic”. Instead, Bulgari will present its products at roadshows in key markets, where amongst other things it will unveil a new record-setting ultra-thin watch. In the Bulgari announcement of its exit, chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin was careful to note that the jeweller might return to the event, stating “we remain open for 2021 onwards to continue with Baselworld”, with a decision due to be made by June 2020. The Roman jeweller is the biggest revenue earner amongst the LVMH watch and jewellery brands, which also includes watchmakers Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith. All four already showed most of their new products for the year in Dubai, though Bulgari is the only one to depart Baselworld. Sunny and free of the flu in Dubai In contrast, the three watch brands of LVMH will be staying put. In a press release swiftly put out by Baselworld after Bulgari’s departure, LVMH watch division president Stéphane Bianchi stated: “We believe in the importance of a major event for the Swiss watch industry and look forward to a successful fair, both in terms of image and sales, for our three Maisons.” The divergence between Bulgari and the LVMH watch division gives credence to talk within the industry that a keen rivalry has developed between Messrs Babin and Bianchi, who joined LVMH in 2018 after a successful stint running Fre...

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Voutilainen Feb 11, 2020

Up Close: Voutilainen Vingt-8 ‘Blue Pearl’ 44 mm

The highly-regarded Voutilainen Vingt-8 has a 39 mm case as standard, along with a dazzling variety of dials and additional complications, from a retrograde date to an inverted movement. But one of the more interesting variants is the simple-but-enormous oversized Vingt-8. Originally introduced in 2017, the extra-large, 44 mm Vingt-8 is available as a custom order, with the most recent example being the Vingt-8 ‘Blue Pearl’, one of the few Voutilainen watches with a mother-of-pearl dial. The 44 mm case… With an enlarged movement to fit The oversized Vingt-8 has been produced in a range of case metals, including steel, but this example has a platinum case, which means an impressive heft, the kind of weight you rarely find on highly-finished, classical wristwatches. But it also means the watch feels heavy on the wrist, which can be good or bad depending on taste. Importantly – and this is probably the most important design change – the lug width has been widened to 22 mm, compared to just 20 mm on the very first oversized watch. This gives the watch ideal proportions – the new case design needs nothing more. Visually the watch is light and informal. The mother of pearl is a pale, even blue that is almost luminous and reveals nuances up close. It gives the watch a cool colour palette that’s more restrained than the average Voutilainen, which tends to have an elaborately decorated dial. Pearl’s progress The first watch with such a dial was the 2-Eight, the lad...

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Hamilton Khaki Field Murph Released Feb 10, 2020

Hands-On: Hamilton Khaki Field Murph

Released in 2014 to critical and commercial success, Interstellar tells the story of a Joseph Cooper, an astronaut recruited to save humanity by travelling through wormholes to seek new, habitable worlds. He’s played by Matthew McConaughey, while Jessica Chastain takes the role of Murphy, his daughter. A key scene in the film has Cooper communicating across space and time with Murphy via the seconds hand of her wristwatch, which jumps in Morse code. The wristwatch prop was a custom Hamilton, but it took the brand five years to take advantage of the big screen opportunity – though Hamilton did recruit the movie’s production designer to create a sci-fi wristwatch – with the Khaki Field Murph finally launching last year. Though based on the standard Khaki Field Auto 42 mm, the Murph edition is notably different. To start with, it has a retro look with faux-vintage luminous markings and cathedral hands. And perhaps more importantly for the aficionado, the Murph has no date function; in fact, it is the only automatic model in the Khaki Field line without a date (the other models sans date are all hand-wind). In short, the Murph is a good-looking, military-style watch for relatively little money. The dial of the Murph is surprisingly well conceived for an inexpensive watch. The layout is balanced and well proportioned, with both hands being just the right length. Because the Super-Luminova used is a dark parchment, the dial has strong vintage aspirations that don’t q...

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Hublot Introduces Feb 10, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion Gold Crystal

As a brand known for oversized and aggressively technical watches, Hublot’s latest creation is unusually delicate and intricate. The Classic Fusion Gold Crystal is an all-black wristwatch with a striking gold-patterned dial that has surprising beauty on a small scale. Reminiscent of fossilised plants, the motif on the dial is actually solid gold, formed by vaporising the precious metal, revisiting an idea Hublot first mooted in 2017 with the experimental Gold Crystal watch that relied on gold from rivers around Geneva. According to Hublot, the technique to create the decoration was developed in-house and starts with a tiny amount of pure, 24-carat gold. The metal is heated to its melting point, and then heated some more, creating a vapour-like stream of gold. The tiny gold particles are then channelled to a cold metal plate, causing them to cool instantaneously, which form what Hublot terms “gold crystals”. These tiny pieces of gold are them sorted for size and shape, with only 20% suited for use on a watch dial, according to Hublot. The resulting pieces are then arranged by hand on a black dial, which is then covered with a transparent lacquer – in a vacuum so as to prevent bubbles forming – and then baked in an oven to set the lacquer. The rest of the watch is basically a monochromatic canvas for the gold crystal decor. It’s a stock Classic Fusion in black ceramic – the case, bezel, and back are black ceramic, while the screws are black-coated titanium. Ava...

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F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Feb 7, 2020

Anton Suhanov Introduces the Pharos Triple-Axis Tourbillon Clock

Independent Russian watchmaker Anton Suhanov is making his debut, not with a wristwatch, but a notably exotic table clock. Inspired by the Lighthouse of Alexandria, the Pharos is column-shaped, world-time clock featuring a triple-axis tourbillon – that is notably well priced for an exotic, high-end timepiece. Though Suhanov only struck out on his own a year ago, he is almost an industry veteran. He spent over a decade working for fellow Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin of Joker wristwatch fame, first as a constructor developing movements and then as manufacturing director. The Pharos clock is actually an evolution of a nephrite-clad table clock that Suhanov finished in 2016. Also equipped with a triple-axis tourbillon, the clock won for Suhanov the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition that year. Once upon a time, a millennia ago… One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Lighthouse of Alexandria stood on Pharos, a small island off the city of Alexandria. Believed to have been about 100 m tall – the equivalent of a 20-story building – the lighthouse was constructed during the second century BC, and suffered damage during various earthquakes, which was the cause of its final demise in the 14th century. The Pharos clock is a nod to the ancient wonder. It has a cylindrical steel body that stands 19 cm high, with prominent sapphire dome at the top that’s 8.6 cm in diameter. While Suhanov’s first clock only revealed the tourbillon via small porthole, ...

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Swatch Feb 7, 2020

Swatch Introduces the James Bond 007 Collection

Ahead of the upcoming James Bond film No Time to Die, Swatch has unveiled the Swatch X 007 capsule collection. Each of the watches in the line-up are inspired by the elaborate title credits and artwork that have become a signature of the James Bond film franchise. The collection takes inspiration from films across the decades, ranging from classics like Dr No, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Moonraker, and Licence to Kill, to recent instalments like The World is Not Enough and Casino Royale. Swatch is no stranger to the British super spy, having launched several 007 collections over the years, some of which have gone on to collectors’ items. Amongst the most successful editions is the James Bond 40th anniversary set of watches presented in a briefcase of 2002, the 22-piece collection of watches modelled on notable Bond villains of 2008. The 007 Villains collection (left), and the anniversary briefcase. Photo – Sotheby’s From Connery to Craig Each packaged in a box resembling a VHS cassette tape – something consumers below a certain age will probably not recognise – the watches in the Swatch X 007 collection are offered in two sizes, depending on the model. The watches inspired by Licence to Kill and Casino Royale are in the original, 34 mm “Gent” case, while the Moonraker, Dr No, The World is Not Enough, and On Her Majesty’s Secret Service editions are a more modern 41 mm and presented in the “New Gent” case style. Licence to Kill and Cas...

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Casio Feb 7, 2020

G-Shock Introduces the 6900-Series with Metal Bezel

While the quintessential G-Shock is arguably the original, oblong DW-5000 in black plastic, the oversized DW-6900 is almost as famous. Introduced in 1995, its bulbous case was strikingly large and the watch became a fashion accessory of sorts over the next two decades, especially with the collaborations done with streetwear labels like Mastermind and celebrities like rapper Eminem. So as the DW-6900 reaches its 25th year, Casio is marking the anniversary with a special edition: the G-Shock GM-6900 with metal bezel. Identical in shape and function to the original, the GM-6900 is distinguished by its stamped steel bezel, essentially a metal outer case goes over the inner resin case. The bezel is formed into shape via multiple stamping processes, each further refining the form and curve of the bezel. It’s available in a natural steel finish, black-coating with a glossy finish and red accents, or polished gold plating. In terms of tech, the GM-6900 is basic. The electronic module inside is battery operated and has all of the usual functions of a G-Shock, including stopwatch, countdown timer, and multiple time zones. It is delivered on a black resin strap with a buckle finished to match the steel bezel. The original DW-6900 Key facts and price G-Shock GM-6900 G-Shock GM-6900B (black bezel) G-Shock GM-6900G (gold bezel) Diameter: 49.7 mm Height: 18.6 mm Material: Resin with steel bezel Water resistance: 200 m Movement: Model 3230 Functions: Digital, multifunction Windi...

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Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02 When Feb 6, 2020

Face-Off: Seiko Credor Eichi II 7R14 vs. Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02

When it comes to finely-finished, time-only movements, the ultimate Seiko offerings are the Credor Eichi II and Grand Seiko Spring Drive 20th Anniversary. The Japanese equivalent of watches like the Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain and Philippe Dufour Simplicity, the pair are the work of the Micro Artist Studio and finished to the same magnificent level, broadly speaking. (The Grand Seiko 8 Day is of the same quality, but it is a much larger and more complex watch.) Because the movements, the 7R14 in the Eichi II and 9R02 in Grand Seiko SBGZ001 and SBGZ003, are fundamentally identical, comparing the finer details of the two – an enlightened, obsessive nitpicking – makes for some interesting conclusions. The 7R14 in the Eichi II (left) and the 9R02 of the Grand Seiko SBGZ001 The sampled are both finished examples that were purchased in stores, and not prototypes, so both are representative of their respective model and movement. Though both were made in the Seiko-Epson’s Micro Artist Studio, probably by the very same craftsmen, the Eichi II was produced in 2015, while the Grand Seiko SBGZ001 dates to 2019, which is the year of its launch, and is the property of Mark Cho, founder of menswear retailer The Armoury. Same but different Both movements share the same architecture and layout, with the key functional difference being the power reserve, in both duration and display. The Eichi II’s 7R14 has a single barrel and a 60-hour power reserve, indicated on a fan-sha...

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Patek Philippe Feb 5, 2020

Semper & Adhuc Rescues Homeless Vintage Movements

French startup Semper & Adhuc is making its debut with a familiar proposition: affordable, time-only watches, but with a historically conscious twist – each watch is powered by a homeless vintage movement. Also unusual is the fact that while the movements are Swiss, namely the A. Schild AS 1012, every other part of the watch, including case, dial, and hands, is made in France. The brand was started in 2016 by watchmaker Colin de Tonnac, who spent several years at Patek Philippe in Geneva before setting up Semper & Adhuc in Bordeaux. The inaugural line-up is made up of three minimalist watches with quirky details and form cases, but the most interesting bit is the slightly romantic rationale behind the movement inside. Saving abandoned movements All three models are powered by the same calibre, the hand-wound AS 1012 produced by A. Schild, a Grenchen-based movement maker that was once one of Switzerland’s largest. Produced from 1936 to 1960, the AS 1012 is an unusual movement because it is, or rather was, an oval form calibre destined for ladies’ watches, explaining the compact size of about 13 mm by 15 mm. It has 17 or 21 jewels depending on the version, and a 36-hour power reserve. Examples of the AS 1012 and its variants The AS 1012 was inexpensive and robust, making it popular enough that millions were produced. And after the Quartz Crisis, a good number of the movements – likely the majority of them – were in watches that were no longer desirable. That wa...

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Feb 5, 2020

Timor Introduces the Heritage Field ‘WWW’ Remake

Timor, best known as one of the 12 watch brands that supplied wristwatches to the British Ministry of Defence (MOD) during the Second World War, is making a comeback with the Heritage Field, a faithful remake of its most famous timepiece that’ll be offered on Kickstarter in mid February. Widely known as WWW, short for “Watches Wristlet Waterproof”, the British army-issue watches were dependable, no-nonsense instruments that have been reproduced by other revived brands, but the Timor remake is probably the closest to the original. The WWW Now being brought back to life by British entrepreneur Benjamin Briggs, Timor was originally a trademark of J. Bernheim & Co. of La Chaux-de-Fonds, which like many other small- and medium-sized watch brands of the time, assembled cases and movements produced by specialist suppliers and sold watches under its own brand name. The Timor WWW, for instance, was equipped with the cal. 6060, an AS 1203 made by A. Schild, once one of Switzerland’s leading movement makers. The remake (left) and an original WWW But like much of the Swiss watch industry, Timor went bust during the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s. Now it has returned, but Timor is not alone. With the values of vintage WWW watches having risen to a level where remakes are viable – it is hard to sell a reproduction for more than the original – Timor is not the only resurrected brand making a WWW. Timor’s revival follows that of British brand Vertex, another supplier of the WWW...

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Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel Feb 4, 2020

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel

With the Freak being the undisputed flagship complication of Ulysse Nardin – as well as a historically important watch – many of the brand’s other technical accomplishments often go under the radar. One intriguing offering that hasn’t gotten much attention: the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Despite the somewhat dull name, the Tourbillon Free Wheel is a compelling reinterpretation of a mystery clock – where the mechanics are artfully hidden and exposed for visual effect – that is both fascinating and exotic. The Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel with an aventurine dial While the base model of the Executive collection features a largely conventional, open-worked movement, the Tourbillon Free Wheel takes things a step further by elevating the crucial parts of the movement like the barrel, tourbillon regulator, and gear train for the power reserve. In fact, most of the components are “floating” – the movement boasts a flying tourbillon, a “flying” gear train and power reserve indicator, as well as a “floating” barrel. At the same time, the construction is inverted, with parts that are usually hidden sitting exposed, and vice versa. As a result, the tourbillon and power reserve display appear to operate in isolation, with no obvious connection to the rest of the movement. Floating and flying minimalism While much of the gearing is hidden underneath the dial – which doubles up as the base plate – most of the moving parts are “floating” –...

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Panerai Introduces Feb 3, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina Carbotech PAM 1661

Three years ago, Panerai introduced the LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days PAM 700, an experimental watch boasting carbon-based innovations inside and out, including ceramic bridges and plates that do away with jewelled bearings as well as a dial coated in carbon nanotubes giving it an absolute black finish. But the LAB-ID was truly experimental, and word has it that only a handful were sold and the planned 50-piece run was never completed. But no doubt due to the popularity of the LAB-ID’s design – and unpopularity of the €50,000 price tag – Panerai has just announced the Luminor Marina Carbotech 44 mm (PAM01661). It’s essentially a smaller, simpler LAB-ID, featuring a case in the same material, as well as blue lume on the dial and hands, but with a straightforward automatic movement without any of the bells and whistles found in the LAB-ID. The Luminor Marina Carbotech 44 mm Depth rated to 300 m, the case is made of Carbotech, a carbon fibre-reinforced polymer produced by compressing thin sheets of carbon fibres at high pressure with a high-end polymer (PEEK), explaining the wave-like appearance of the material. The result is a material that is light and strong, explaining why the large, 44 mm case weighs just 96 grammes, less than half the same case in steel. The LAB-ID of 2017 The watch has a standard Panerai dial, but in the colours of the LAB-ID. Like most Panerai dials, it has a “sandwich” construction, where the hour markers are cut-outs that r...

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IWC Introduces Feb 3, 2020

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Chronograph 3716 with “In-House” Movement

Unveiled in 1998, the original IWC Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3714 had a surprisingly long life, managing to be a bestseller for 22 years – and a lucrative franchise for IWC – thanks to its distinctive yet classical styling and relatively affordable price. Now it has finally been replaced by the new Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3716 that looks almost identical, but is powered by a proprietary movement – and only a little bit more expensive. The ref. 3716 actually made its debut two years ago as a 150th anniversary limited edition, available only with a glossy, lacquered dial in white or blue. Now the ref. 3716 joins the regular collection, with a steel or 18k rose gold case, as well as all of the dial variants that were offered for the outgoing ref. 3714. That means the quintessential Portugieser Chronograph in steel matched a silver dial, gold numerals and gold hands is still available. The new Portugieser Chronograph is slightly larger than the original, but the differences are so slight that they are not apparent at all. The new model is 41 mm in diameter and 13.1 mm high, compared to 40.9 mm by 12.6 mm for the original. The new movement, and new price The increase in size is due to the cal. 69355, which replaces the cal. 79350 (derived from the Valjoux 7750) inside the original Portugieser Chronograph. The cal. 69355 is an in-house movement that’s part of the 69000 family. Amongst the upgrades are the column wheel, as well as the escape wheel and pallet for...

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Bell & Ross Introduces Feb 3, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR V2-94 Aéronavale Bronze

Slightly retro and conventionally shaped, the Bell & Ross Vintage line is a popular counterpart to the brand’s better-known, all-square BR 01 and 03. The Vintage collection gets three new models at Baselworld 2020 – namely a time-only, GMT, and chronograph – including the BR V2-94 Aéronavale Bronze limited edition. Notably, the new BR V2 watches are offered with a type of elastic fabric strap secured by a small hook, often known as an “MN” strap. That’s short for Marine Nationale – the French navy – and reputedly comes from the fact that such straps were originally fabricated by from parachute webbing by French navy personnel, who were said to have been issued watches without straps. Named after l’Aéronavale, the air arm of the French navy, the BR V2-94 limited edition is inspired by the colours of the French navy’s dress uniform. So the dial is a dark, metallic blue, matched with gold-plated hands and hour markers, and a bronze case. And bezel is fixed and features a blue, anodised aluminium insert that allows for measurement of elapsed time. The 41 mm case is made of CuAl7Si2 bronze, an alloy that’s almost all copper, save for 7% aluminium and 2% silicon. Over time, the alloy acquires a brownish surface oxidisation, in contrast to the green verdigris of more common bronze alloys. And like the other BR V2 chronographs, this is powered by an ETA 2894-2, which is an ETA 2892 base with a chronograph module on top. The other additions to the line wi...

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Zenith El Primero Feb 2, 2020

In-Depth: Why the Position of a Watch Influences Accuracy

A mechanical watch movement is a tiny-but-complex system made up of components in equilibrium, operating flawlessly. But because the those components are delicate – especially the parts that make up the escapement – its operation can be influenced by external factors,  including shock, moisture, and more commonly, the position of the watch, whether on the wrist or off. The position of a watch determines how gravity affects the moving parts of the movement. In other words, the timekeeping of a watch can vary according to whether it is laid on its back or on its side. That resulting variation is known as positional error, and it is largely because of gravity’s effect on the balance wheel – the oscillator in the regulating organ of the movement. Beyond the position of a watch, positional error is also shaped by factors like the amplitude of the balance wheel, the type of hairspring, and the poise of the balance. All are inextricably linked and must be adjusted just right – properly regulated in watchmaking parlance – in order for a watch to have minimal positional error and thus keep good time. [Editor’s note: In this article we’ll just deal with movements constructed traditionally with conventional materials, leaving out silicon-equipped movements, which are still relatively niche.] The Microstella adjustable-mass balance of the Rolex cal. 4030, which is based on the Zenith El Primero A matter of position The position of a watch significantly affects its ac...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jan 31, 2020

Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste

Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a trio of grand complications last year, a substantial number given how complex each watch is, although two of the three are powered by existing movements. The Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (the only one equipped with a new calibre) and the Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite were launched first, and late in the year came the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste to mark 15 years of partnership with the Venice International Film Festival. Among the brand’s grand complications, the Tourbillon Celeste is one of the most interesting, boasting a quirky combinations of functions – an orbital, flying tourbillon calibrated for sidereal time as well as a star chart, and sidereal annual calendar. And it is also unusually high tech for a Jaeger-LeCoultre, with the movement being equipped with a silicon escape wheel and pallet fork. A simpler complication As with most of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s recent grand complications, the movement in the Tourbillon Céleste is an iteration of an earlier calibre – something the brand has made a habit of in recent years, which is a bit of a shame given its rich history in movement development. Specifically, the movement inside is a streamlined and simplified version of the more complicated Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, which was launched in 2010 and also included a minute repeater. Being a separate module mounted on the case-back side of the movement, the repeater was s...

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Longines just announced Jan 30, 2020

Business News: Swatch Group Annual Profit Falls with Hong Kong Slowdown

Hong Kong’s political unrest has resulted in the first fall in annual profits at the Swatch Group since 2018. The world’s biggest watchmaking group, which owns brands like Omega and Longines, just announced its 2019 results, showing declines in both sales and profits. Net profit fell 13.7%, while sales declined 1.8% at constant exchange rates, or 2.7% at current rates, to 8.24 billion francs. The drops in profit and sales were primarily due to a drastic contraction of its business in Hong Kong – a city with a population of just 7.4 million – where Swatch Group owns over 90 retail stores, largely catering to shoppers from the China. Sales in Hong Kong for the second half of 2019 fell by 200 million francs. While Hong Kong was the key driver of the decline, it was not the only one. The luxury watch business in general is suffering from anaemic growth, which is also evidenced by the watch division results at diversified luxury groups like LVMH and Kering. On a more positive note, Swatch Group has managed to fulfil its stated aims of reducing operating expenditure and thinning inventory. Operating expenses dipped about 6%, while operating cash flow rose 30% in 2019. And after several consecutive years of growth, the group’s inventories declined by 1% in 2019, to a still-substantial 6.85 billion francs at cost. It’ll be a slow 2020… With Swatch Group predicting the situation in Hong Kong will continue to be “challenging” in 2020, it is in a weaker positio...

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Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 30, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Limited Editions

Originally unveiled as a sub-brand of Seiko in 1960 dedicated entirely to high-precision wristwatches – and only sold in Japan for most of that time – Grand Seiko has now become an independent brand. This year is the 60th anniversary of its founding, and the occasion is being commemorated with a quartet of limited editions (with perhaps more to come later in the year), including two quartz watches powered by the 9F85, a new, top-of-the-line quartz movement. All of the anniversary editions feature a dial in dark blue, one of Grand Seiko’s signature colours, albeit executed in different materials or finishes, ranging from a stamped pattern to mother of pearl. All of the men’s models also have a red seconds hand, creating a red and blue aesthetic that’s uncommon for Grand Seiko. The flagship 60th anniversary watch is the Heritage Collection Hi-Beat 36000 Limited Edition (SBGH281), a variant of the 44GS “modern reinterpretation” that features broad, mirror-polished case flanks that are steeply sloped, a distinguishing characteristic of the 44GS case style. It’s powered by the 9S85, an automatic movement operated at 36,000 beats per hour, hence the “Hi-Beat” label.  Only 1,500 will be made. The Hi-Beat limited edition also features a gold “GS” logo on the dial The other mechanical model in the anniversary line-up is the Elegance Collection Women’s Automatic Limited Edition (STGK015), powered by the 9S27 automatic movement. Its dial is dark-blue mother...

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Jan 29, 2020

Business News: De Grisogono Declares Bankruptcy

Swiss jeweller De Grisogono, which in its prime was one of the most extravagant brands on the planet, has just filed for bankruptcy in Geneva, as a result of Luanda Leaks, the financial scandal that has engulfed Isabel dos Santos, the daughter of Angola’s former president, reports Swiss newspapers Tribune de Geneve and Le Temps. Luanda Leaks, a trove of leaked documents published by investigative news organisation ICIJ, revealed Angolan state funds were allegedly channeled to Ms dos Santos, helping make her the richest woman in Africa. Even before the leaked documents, Ms dos Santos and her family were already under pressure from her father’s successor, who has vowed to root out corruption in the oil-rich African nation. According to the documents, a portion of went to fund De Grisogono, which was acquired by a Angolan investors in 2012. The investment was led by Ms dos Santos’ husband, Sindika Dokolo, but allegedly funded by Sodiam, Angola’s state-owned diamond company. With De Grisogono continuing to lose money since 2012, the brand’s owners had been hawking De Grisogono for some time with no luck, and Luanda Leaks were the final nail in the coffin – the brand declared bankruptcy on Tuesday, January 28, 2020. The King of Black Diamonds Founded by Fawaz Gruosi in 1993, De Grisogono was perhaps most famous for its incredibly lavish annual party at the Cannes Film Festival – reputedly costing as much as 3 million francs in some years – that everyone who ...

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Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal Last year Jan 29, 2020

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal

Last year Urwerk launched the UR-100 SpaceTime, a watch that installed the brand’s signature wandering hours satellite display in newly designed watch case. Unsurprisingly the UR-100 SpaceTime became a brisk seller, not only because it is the most affordable model in the catalogue, but also because its case is compact and relatively conventional in shape, making it the most wearable Urwerk watch by far. And so Urwerk has followed up with the UR-100 Gunmetal, a new variant that arrives just four months after four months after the model was launched. It feels a little bit too soon for another edition, but the Gunmetal is different enough – and the original versions are almost sold out – that it can be forgiven. Steel in disguise While the case of the new UR-100 remains the same design, the finish is unusual. The material looks like titanium, even up close it resembles titanium, but in the hand it is obviously too heavy to be titanium. The case is actually steel, which has been sandblasted to give it a smooth, matte finish and then coated with a dark grey coating. That’s a bit of a surprise, because watch cases that look like titanium are almost always titanium. But Urwerk’s rationale for using steel is practical: hard-coated steel is more resistant to scratches than titanium, which is generally quite soft. The result is watch that has a strong sci-fi military look, like a piece of kit used by the Marines in Aliens, which is very much Urwerk’s original house styl...

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Ressence Jan 28, 2020

Interview: Benoît Mintiens, Founder of Ressence

The left field of watchmaking has yielded many unusual and exotic time displays, but few have the same sense of function and purpose as Ressence. In fact, the essence of the brand is its name, which is short for the “Renaissance of the Essential”. Perhaps a key ingredient of the renaissance is the fact that its founder is not a watchmaker. Ressence was founded a decade ago by Benoît Mintiens, a Belgian industrial designer whose past work included trains, newsstands, and luggage. From the start, the identity of Ressence was crystal clear. The brand’s debut line of watches had dials that relied on a planetary gear mechanism to indicate the time (as well as a crown, which has since been removed from all its watches). Akin to a 21st century regulator-style display, it was an avant-garde way of displaying time, while still surprisingly intuitive. Benoit Mintiens Even more surprising was the longevity of the planetary time display, which has since spawned various iterations, often accompanied by novel innovations ranging from the oil-filled time display in the Type 3, to the more recent Type 2 that’s a mechanical watch that can set itself thanks to an electronic module. When Benoît visited Singapore in late 2019, I got a chance to explore his design philosophy, especially on how his background in industrial design helped inform his unique approach to watchmaking. He also delved into the subtleties of a Ressence wristwatch, and dropped a few hints about a new time ...

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De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Jan 27, 2020

Hands-On: De Bethune Dream Watch 5 in Rose Gold

De Bethune’s brand of watchmaking has spawned many avant-garde watches, ranging from the Urwerk collaboration for Only Watch to the East Asian-inspired Maestri Art. But its most outstanding sculptural creation is unquestionably the Dream Watch 5, an extraterrestrial seashell that tells the time. Originally launched in 2014 in mirror-polished titanium, the original Dream Watch 5 was extremely expensive, but also tiny, having the proportions of a lady’s watch. Fortunately, it was later enlarged to its current size of just under 60 mm at its widest, from crown to pointed tip, though it remains just as expensive. The Dream Watch was then iterated into several one-off examples, with the most incredible being the Dream Watch 5 in heat-blued meteorite; its extraordinary nature matched by the US$450,000 price tag. The Dream Watch 5 in meteorite More recently, a custom version of the Dream Watch 5 in 18k rose gold was delivered last year. Even though the design is exactly the same as the other variants, the rose gold specimen has a distinctly more classical look that dials back on the sci-fi feel. Like the other versions of the watch, the Dream Watch 5 in rose gold is entirely mirror polished, but also accented by an insert of polished, heat-blued titanium on the case back that extends to the crown, which is also made of the same material and then topped with a 1 carat ruby. Despite its aesthetics, the Dream Watch 5 is actually functionally simple: it indicates the hours and m...

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Longines Heritage Military 1938 Longines Jan 26, 2020

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Military 1938

Longines has been cranking out vintage remakes at a furious pace over the last year, most notably the Heritage Classic “sector” dial and Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. All of them share the appealing qualities of being well-priced and fairly authentic remakes. The latest to be released is the Heritage Military 1938, a remake of an oversized watch Longines produced in the 1930s, often for Eastern European markets. It’s as good as the other remakes in terms of value – Longines excel at making value-for-money watches – but falls a bit flat with the dial. The ref. 4092 The inspiration for the new remake is the ref. 4092, a wristwatch that is exceptionally large for its time, with its steel case measuring 43 mm in diameter. Such extra-large watches with military-style dials appear to have mostly been sold to Eastern Europe; Zipper, the Longines agent in Poland at the time is often named as the recipient in archive extracts. A vintage ref. 4092 from the Longines Museum (left) next to the Heritage Military 1938 The rarity and remarkable size of the ref. 4092, along with its appealing military-style dial, makes it a fairly valuable watch today. Even an example with a severely-aged dial sold for 23,750 Swiss francs at Phillips in 2017. So unlike other modern-day remakes that are enlarged versions of vintage originals, the Heritage Military 1938 is just right; it is exactly the same size as the original, but priced at just a tenth of the auction result. The remake Th...

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Hublot Introduces Jan 25, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Sang Bleu II

One of Hublot’s most enduring artistic collaborations has been its relationship with Sang Bleu, a Swiss creative agency and tattoo studio. Founded by Swiss tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Büchi – who happens to be a bona fide watch aficionado himself – one of Sang Bleu’s signature tattoos is a symmetrical, geometric pattern made up of triangles, which was converted into an unusual time display for the Sang Bleu wristwatch. While the original Sang Bleu watch was time only, the Big Bang Sang Bleu II is a chronograph – with triple Sang Bleu indications, for the time, as well as the two chronograph registers. Clad in blue and available in titanium or 18k gold, the Sang Bleu tells the time via two large, latticework hands – the classic Sang Bleu motif – that have luminous paint on their tips. Similarly, the chronograph hands are rendered as open-worked octagons. Reminiscent of a kinetic sculpture as the hands move, the look is striking and unique, although it doesn’t help with legibility. Sang Bleu finishing The triangular Sang Bleu motif continues onto the bezel and case, which is essentially a geometrically-shaped variation of the tradition Hublot Big Bang. Notably, because of the alternating brushed and polished surfaces that cover the case, the brushed surface is actually a laser engraved linear pattern, because of the impossibility of creating alternating finishes on the same plane. Because the Sang Bleu II is a chronograph, it’s a large watch that’s 4...

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Konstantin Chaykin Jan 24, 2020

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Mouse King

Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin had a hit on his hands when he unveiled the Joker at Baselworld 2017. Inspired by the “moving eye” clocks invented by German clockmaker J. Oswald in 1926, the Joker has since been iterated into several new versions, including the one-off Joker Selfie that sold for 75,000 Swiss francs at last year’s Only Watch charity auction. To mark the upcoming Chinese Year of the Rat, Konstantin has created a special variant of the Joker – the Mouse King – featuring the same “rolling eye” time display, but powered by a new base movement. According to Konstantin, the genesis of the watch came during the recent Christmas season, when he read the German fairytale The Nutcracker and the Mouse King, or Nussknacker und Mausekönig in its original language, to his daughter. A story about a nutcracker doll that comes to life and then defeats the evil Mouse King, the fairytale is the basis for Tchaikovsky’s ballet The Nutcracker. But most relevant to Konstantin is the fact that one of its main characters, Drosselmeyer, is a clockmaker. And in another coincidence, the Chinese Year of the Rat begins on January 25, 2020, which is also his daughter’s birthday. And so the Mouse King watch was created, as a limited edition of seven watches – because the evil Mouse King has seven heads, each wearing a golden crown. It indicates the hours and minutes regulator-style with a”moving eye” display, along with the moon phase at six o’clock ...

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Breguet Marine 5517 Jan 23, 2020

Up Close: Breguet Marine 5517 in Titanium

Breguet today is highly regarded for its watches that classically designed but often powered by innovative, high-tech movements, like the Classique Chronométrie 7727 with magnetic balance pivots, or the recent, elaborately finished skeleton tourbillon 5395. The brand is not, however, known for its luxury-sports watches (its line of Type XX aviator’s chronographs are entry-level and not quite sports watches). But last year Breguet unveiled the latest – and best – version of its luxury-sports watch, the Marine 5517. An under-appreciated contender in the category, the new Marine more conservative in style than its competition, but built to an admirably high standard. The Marine 5517 in titanium with a matching bracelet Horloger de la Marine Unlike its competitors, Breguet was relatively late to the luxury-sports watch segment (though not as late as A. Lange & Söhne, which launched the Odysseus last year); the original Marine only made its debut in 1990. The model name was inspired by Breguet’s appointment in 1815 as Horloger de la Marine – clockmaker to the French navy, an appointment it held for over 150 years. Designed by Jorg Hysek, perhaps the most famous watch designers of the 1990s, the first-generation Marine was distinguished by its fluted, domed crown, but otherwise looked pretty much like any other Breguet. That was replaced in 2005 by the second generation, a major redesign that gave it a more distinctive style. The practical robustness of the Marine...

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