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Photo Report: Inside Hermès Horloger Manufacture Hodinkee
Hermes Jun 9, 2026

Photo Report: Inside Hermès Horloger Manufacture

We've all been told at least once in life to stick to our own lane. It's an old trope that historically holds merit. Stick to one discipline, master it, and you'll succeed. But in 2026, the rulebook has changed in almost every aspect of life, and sometimes those one-trick ponies aren't the ones leading the charge; they're actually left in the stable. La Montre Hermès S.A in Brugg, Switzerland. In watchmaking, it transpires that the latest crop of brands to realize this are the names we most associate with being wider fashion houses. Empires sustained by hand-stitching legacy into cloth, amplified in the theatre of the catwalk, now play in the watchmaking arena. We've witnessed many of these names turn to watchmaking as an additional arm to their already bulletproof name, and crucially, they're delivering watches with real merit. For Hermès, despite having a presence in watchmaking since the early 20th century, with Universal Genève as the brand's watchmaking partner from the 1930s and the production of exclusively Hermès-signed pieces such as desk clocks, this rise has been built brick by brick since the 1970s. Outfitting horses came first, then their riders, and it quickly proved that true luxury comes from mastery, not scale. During the 1970s, the maison decided to build schools to train artisans the Hermès way, passing along hand-stitching, leather cutting, and scarf-printing techniques from master to apprentice. While other names pursued mass production or outsour...

First Look – The New Yema Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29 Refines the French Brand’s Architectural Dress Watch Monochrome
Yema Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29 Refines Jun 9, 2026

First Look – The New Yema Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29 Refines the French Brand’s Architectural Dress Watch

Named after the historic Granvelle Palace in Besançon, home to the city’s Museum of Time, the Yema Granvelle collection (2025) embraced a more architectural and elegant approach, stepping away from the brand’s familiar world of dive watches and tool-oriented sports models, and offering a model with a distinctive cushion-shaped case and powered by one of […]

Beaucroft Introduces the Arc, an Elegant Everyday Watch with Impressive Specs Worn & Wound
Jun 9, 2026

Beaucroft Introduces the Arc, an Elegant Everyday Watch with Impressive Specs

The microbrand/independent scene in the UK is truly one of the most exciting in the world, with dozens of brands vying for attention and an always growing community of excited watch enthusiasts eager to experience just about everything on offer. This is very much the vibe every time we attend British Watchmakers’ Day and have a chance to experience it firsthand, and honestly it’s invigorating in a way to be placed in an enthusiast environment that feels familiar but also very specific to the UK.  One of the more interesting brands to emerge from this scene is Beaucroft, based in Cambridge. Beaucroft is not the flashiest or highest profile microbrand in the UK, but they’re on the rise, and they tend to make an impression when you actually see the watches in person. Garrett was such a fan of the Element when he saw one he decided to purchase it for himself. My moment of conversion came at British Watchmakers’ Day 2025, where I still regret not purchasing the Penfold Special Edition released that year. Their newest release has been dubbed the “Arc” and is an update of the Seeker model originally launched in 2023.  The Arc leans into the design language that was established with the Seeker and the brand has continued to refine in every model since, namely flowing, natural case lines paired with dynamic, colorful fumé dials. The dramatic curved mid-case is, according to the brand, inspired by the Bridge of Sighs over the River Cam, not far from Beaucroft’s head...

Introducing: Beaucroft The Arc — An Evolution Of The Seeker Watch Range Fratello
Jun 9, 2026

Introducing: Beaucroft The Arc — An Evolution Of The Seeker Watch Range

Beaucroft introduces a new watch line called The Arc. This collection builds on one of Beaucroft’s defining designs, the Seeker, which established the brand’s signature flowing case and dial lines. Now, The Arc pushes that idea further. It remains an easy-wearing everyday watch but brings subtle improvements in construction and feel. The name comes from […] Visit Introducing: Beaucroft The Arc — An Evolution Of The Seeker Watch Range to read the full article.

Recommended Reading: 'Ultimate Collector Watches' From Taschen Offers A Scholarly Approach To Watch Books Hodinkee
Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches Jun 9, 2026

Recommended Reading: 'Ultimate Collector Watches' From Taschen Offers A Scholarly Approach To Watch Books

In two recent conversations, I repeated my frequently used adage: "I can't collect the watches, so I collect the knowledge." This was said when talking to two world-class collectors; one has one of the most complete collections of Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches, and the other has probably the most important collection of Lange, F.P. Journe, and historical watches in the world. Both of them said the same thing, which I'll paraphrase. "I didn't have the money to collect these watches until X years ago, but before that, I was learning." That's why I own a lot of books—even if I probably will never reach those heights—and I'm always looking for more. Knowledge means a lot. Watch books often fall into two categories: either overly esoteric, with a ton of information, or overly broad, without a ton of information but with a lot of nice pictures. I have a bit of each, but I find myself returning to the former most often. You can glean a lot of information from books like AP's "20th Century Complicated Watches" or Patek Philippe's two-volume museum collection tomes, but you only need them once or twice a year. My books on Rolex Day-Dates or Khanjar Daytonas are awesome, but a bit less visited after the first pass. Dr. Helmut Crott's "The Dial" is maybe the most important book on my shelf, but sometimes more information than I want to sit and mindlessly digest. Taschen's new two-volume offering, "Ultimate Collectors Watches" by Charlotte and Peter Fiell, bridges the g...

Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Delphis Glacier Monochrome
Chronoswiss Delphis Glacier Jun 9, 2026

Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Delphis Glacier

The Delphis collection by Chronoswiss is home to increasingly expressive editions. The colourful and technically elaborate Delphis Firestarter, the refined Delphis Art Deco, the decorative and contemporary Delphis Dracula, Horizon and Dune, or the Delphis Sub Zero, inspired by glaciers and bright blue Arctic skies, all these and more were used by the Lucerne-based independent […]

Introducing – The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech to Join the Permanent Collection Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Jun 9, 2026

Introducing – The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech to Join the Permanent Collection

Blancpain expands the Fifty Fathoms collection and presents the new Fifty Fathoms Tech Ref. 5019A, a professional dive watch derived from the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa unveiled in 2023 and made specifically for closed-circuit rebreather divers and underwater explorers. The new version brings the same concept to a more universal watch, now featuring a date […]

The Swatch Collaboration Effect — Here’s What Happened (This Time) Fratello
Swatch Jun 9, 2026

The Swatch Collaboration Effect — Here’s What Happened (This Time)

The Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop watch resulted in long queues at Swatch boutiques worldwide. We witnessed the chaos and mayhem at several of them on May 16th. Police had to enforce order, stores had to close, mall owners were angry, and managers of nearby shops were pissed because they couldn’t open or had […] Visit The Swatch Collaboration Effect — Here’s What Happened (This Time) to read the full article.

Hands-On With Cartier’s Most Versatile Santos de Cartier Yet? WatchAdvice
Cartier s Most Versatile Santos Jun 9, 2026

Hands-On With Cartier’s Most Versatile Santos de Cartier Yet?

I take Cartier’s titanium version of the Santos de Cartier hands-on to see if it really is the more versatile option in the brand’s signature collection. What We Love: A fresh take on a Cartier icon Much more suited as a daily wearer Light, robust and still has a sense of elegance What We Don’t: No open caseback for the 1847 MC movement Price point may feel high compared to other sports watches that also showcase movement Would love to see more dial colours for variation Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 It’s not every day that we see Cartier venture outside the norm with the Santos de Cartier collection. For years, this collection has been one of the more appealing sporty-dressy everyday watches on the market, bringing together sporty proportions, a clean dial aesthetic, and a bracelet design that wraps beautifully around the wrist. But what has made it such a standout and appealing choice is that unmistakable Cartier charm: refined, instantly recognisable, and versatile enough to sit somewhere between a sports watch with dressy appeal and a daily wearer. The Santos’s history goes all the way back to 1904. As the story goes, Louis Cartier created a wristwatch for his friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who needed a practical way to tell the time while flying. Rather than having to reach for a pocket watch mid-flight, which was the norm at the time, Santos-Dumont wanted something tha...

Introducing – Kiwame Tokyo Releases the New Kubo Collection Monochrome
Kiwame Tokyo Jun 9, 2026

Introducing – Kiwame Tokyo Releases the New Kubo Collection

Kiwame Tokyo is a young Japanese microbrand founded in 2025 by watch industry veteran Masami Watanabe, dedicated to “honest watchmaking” from Asakusa, Tokyo. By this, Watanabe refers to timeless, well-finished and designed watches at accessible prices that steer clear of artifice and superficiality. The strong Calatrava dress-watch vibe of the debut Kurotsuki and Usuki models […]

Introducing: The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio-Blu — 2026 Racing Edition Fratello
Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Jun 9, 2026

Introducing: The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio-Blu — 2026 Racing Edition

Today, the 44th historical re-enactment of the Mille Miglia begins. The race, featuring more than 400 classic race cars, starts in Brescia and ends this Saturday in Rome. While the spectacular figure-eight route might not be a proper race anymore, it’s still exciting for so many other reasons. It’s quite the spectacle to watch a […] Visit Introducing: The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio-Blu — 2026 Racing Edition to read the full article.

Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition in Shanghai SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition Jun 9, 2026

Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition in Shanghai

Making its debut in Shanghai, Oyster Story is an all-encompassing, immersive exhibition to mark the centenary of the Rolex Oyster water-resistant watch case, arguably the foundational achievement of the world’s largest luxury watch brand. Oyster Story takes place at June 10-28 at the West Bund Dome Art Center, a former cement factory in a district that was once an industrial area but is now being transformed into an arts and culture hub. The large, domed-shaped building on the banks of the Huangpu River covers almost 100,000 square feet, allowing for a comprehensive journey into the Oyster and Rolex history. The exhibition includes historical Rolex watches, including the actual timepieces worn by explorers and adventurers on landmark expeditions. The watches on show comprise those owned by Rolex “as well as privately owned watches kindly loaned for the event” according to the brand. Also on show is an in-depth look at modern-day Rolex watchmaking. “Cases, bezels, bracelets, dials, materials, movements: every stage of watchmaking is showcased here”, allowing a look into arguably the most advanced high-end-industrial watch manufacturing in Switzerland. The brand’s advances in timekeeping are also illustrated by the atomic clock developed by Rolex. Amongst other things it serves as a reference clock for Rolex watchmaking. Oyster Story is free to enter and open to the public.  

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Jun 9, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink”

Patek Phillippe’s 2026 collection is diverse, but one of my favourites is paradoxically one of the least novel: the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396R-016 with a metallic “sand beige” dial and rose gold case. This is merely a new dial for a model that’s been in the collection for 20 years so it is not genuinely novel – though the movement has been upgraded and improved over that period – but it is appealing. The new ref. 5396R is handsome, and importantly, subtly evocative of vintage “pink on pink” watches, which pairs well with its traditional layout. Initial thoughts For anyone who likes old-school Patek Philippe design, the new ref. 5396R is likely the best looking annual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. Both the colour and style are classic with a capital “C”. Ironically, it is perhaps the least interesting because neither the design nor movement are new, but this illustrates the fact that the appeal of a watch is more than just intrinsic feature and specs. Good looks, however, come at a price. The new ref. 5396R costs CHF54,000, or about US$67,000. It’s expensive but not outrageously so compared to the competition. For example, it’s about 5% pricier than the recent Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar, which is a better watch in most tangible respects, but not quite as pretty as the Patek Philippe. The premium pricing reflects Patek Philippe’s privilege as it has both the status and history to price as it desires – which the brand deserves. But ...