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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Gael Monfils just smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph during Aug 21, 2020

Gael Monfils just smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport

Tennis players are well known for being ambassadors of various watch brands. Serena Williams has recently been spotted playing with her Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph during matches, Roger Federer with his Rolex Sky-Dweller (when his match is over), as well as Rafael Nadal with his RM 27­-03 Manual Winding Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Edition. Gael … ContinuedThe post Gael Monfils just smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 amazing watches showing at the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition in New York City (including the one I’d give an organ for) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Nature Aug 14, 2020

5 amazing watches showing at the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition in New York City (including the one I’d give an organ for)

Is your feed currently flooded with the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” Exhibition in New York City? There’s a reason for that. Taking place Downtown in the SoHo area, in partnership with Watches of Switzerland, this event has completely raised the bar for watch pop-ups. As thoughtful in design as the watches themselves, the exhibition … ContinuedThe post 5 amazing watches showing at the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition in New York City (including the one I’d give an organ for) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MB&F; and Massena Lab Introduce the T-Rex Bronze SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduce Jul 30, 2020

MB&F; and Massena Lab Introduce the T-Rex Bronze

Massena Lab was founded by watch industry veteran William Rohr – who is better known by the pseudonym William Massena – in 2018, with the purpose of collaborating with notable independent watchmakers, and perhaps one day make its own watches. Having made its debut with Habring2 , Massena Lab has just announced the T-Rex Bronze, a 15-piece variant of the quirky MB&F; table clock launched last year. Best described as a hand-blown Murano glass eyeball inside a bronze socket with legs, the T-Rex is made by L’Epee 1839, who is also responsible for all of MB&F;’s other clocks. Initial thoughts The T-Rex is an offbeat, statement piece for the desk, but powered by old-school mechanics – a key-wound, eight-day movement made by L’Epee 1839, a clockmaker founded in, well, 1839. That blend of contemporary creative and classic mechanics makes it cool. But the Massena Lab edition is a departure from the usual MB&F; clock style, which is dominated by metallic silver or black, resulting in a highly mechanical look. The Massena Lab T-Rex replaces the steel of the original version for frosted bronze and “aged” feet, giving the clock a striking, steampunk aesthetic. Permanent patina Standing a little under 27 cm high, the T-Rex weighs about 2 kg. According to MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser, the form was inspired by a bipedal Christmas ornament on his desk. Freelance watch designer Maximilian Maertens then created the clock, relying on images of an actual Tyrannosaurus Rex to d...

Having your chrono and getting a GMT too with the mind-boggling Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic (lots of pics) Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Jul 2, 2020

Having your chrono and getting a GMT too with the mind-boggling Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic (lots of pics)

Editor’s note: It doesn’t happen very often, but sometimes you can have your cake and eat it too. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is one such occasion, where packed into an ultra-thin, ultra-modern watch, you get the two most practical complications a wristwatch can offer. A GMT and a chronograph. That’s right, in … ContinuedThe post Having your chrono and getting a GMT too with the mind-boggling Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic (lots of pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Omega movements But now Jun 26, 2020

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie made a name for itself with its beautifully crafted watches that capture the grace of 1940s timepieces. But all of its work so far has centred on time-only watches, all powered by heavily decorated vintage Omega movements. But now the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph takes things to a whole new level. Retaining the elegant feel of the brand’s earlier creations, the AdC #8 is powered by a reworked movement that started out as a Venus 185 but completely reworked by Atelier de Chronométrie, with a substantial number of parts made from scratch. Commissioned by an American collector, the AdC #8 is largely hand made, with everything hand finished to a superlative, artisanal standard, which is why it took took two years to complete. Initial thoughts I first found out about this watch late last year, and it sounded promising given Atelier de Chronométrie’s track record in design and movement finishing. Though I am going by photos, the finished product definitely lives up to expectations, and then some. Everything about it is just done extremely well, and while it costs a lot of money, the AdC #8 is compellingly and reasonably priced as such things go. Having closely examined Atelier de Chronométrie’s earlier watches, the AdC #8 will undoubtedly have the same feel – visually similar to a vintage watch but much more solid in the hand thanks to a more robust, modern case. A little under 40 mm in diameter, the AdC #8 has the proporti...

Jaquet Droz introduces Paillonnée Enamel “Fleur de Lys” and “Fleur de Vie” SJX Watches
Jaquet Droz May 29, 2020

Jaquet Droz introduces Paillonnée Enamel “Fleur de Lys” and “Fleur de Vie”

Jaquet Droz was historically renowned for elaborate and ornamental pocket watches, often decorated with enamel and pearls, reflecting the brand’s on the Chinese market, which demanded lavishly decorated timepieces. The brand’s newest pair of paillonné enamel wristwatches – the Fleur de Lys Grande Seconde Paillonnée and Fleur de Vie Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée – embody the brand’s past aesthetic sensibilities. French for “spangled”, a reference to the tiny decorative pieces of gold foil that make up the pattern, paillonné enamelling has been a specialty of Jaquet Droz since its modern-day revival, starting with the very first Grande Seconde Paillonnée of 2004 that had a dial made by enamel artisan Anita Porchet. Jaquet Droz has since mastered the fine art of paillonné enamelling, with recent editions like the Paillonnée Enamel “Gold Arabesques” featuring dials made in its own workshops. Initial thoughts The new pair of paillonné enamel watches do not fail to impress with their vivid colours and patterns – gold paillons against translucent blue enamel over guilloché makes for a dynamic combination that immediately catches the eye. And up close, which is the best way to appreciate the enamelling, the gold paillons are tiny yet intricate and nuanced. The ring circling the sub-dials on both watches is made of 18k red gold Out of the two, I gravitate towards the Fleur de Vie due to its 35 mm case, which is fitting for a dress watch, esp...

Tell Us Your Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève-Worthy Contenders: The 2020 GPHG Nominating Academy Members (Well At Least A Few Of Them) Are Listening Quill & Pad
May 26, 2020

Tell Us Your Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève-Worthy Contenders: The 2020 GPHG Nominating Academy Members (Well At Least A Few Of Them) Are Listening

The GPHG Academy will soon be making its submissions for the 2020 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. As Ian Skellern began putting rough lists of watches together, he realized that he was likely only aware of a fraction of watches that are both eligible and noteworthy. And as his favorite niche sectors are likely to be different than yours, many of you will know about watches that he, and perhaps other Academy members, don’t. So please let us know your favorite new watches in the categories here and we'll take them into consideration.

CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Ellen DeGeneres Vs. Trevor Noah, a toe-to-toe bout inc. Rolex, AP and Patek Time+Tide
Rolex AP May 6, 2020

CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Ellen DeGeneres Vs. Trevor Noah, a toe-to-toe bout inc. Rolex, AP and Patek

Ring the bell, Celebrity Watch Death Match is back for another round of mayhem, and this time we’re squaring off two of Tinseltown’s most talented anchors, both of whom demonstrate an aficionado’s taste in timepieces – Ellen DeGeneres and Trevor Noah. These talk show hosts are known for interviewing some of the world’s biggest celebrities … ContinuedThe post CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Ellen DeGeneres Vs. Trevor Noah, a toe-to-toe bout inc. Rolex, AP and Patek appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 ‘Grand Feu’ Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces May 5, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 ‘Grand Feu’ Enamel

Breguet’s Reine de Naples has an unusual distinction in modern watchmaking, being an iconic ladies’ watch design of the 21st century. Characterised by an egg-shaped case, the Reine de Naples was inspired by a long-lost watch made for the Queen of Naples in 1810. The watch has long been available with a variety of dials, from carved seashell cameo to guilloche gold, but not enamel – perhaps a surprise given the frequent use of enamel dials on Breguet’s watches for men. But now enamel is no longer the exception with the debut of the Reine de Naples 8918 with grand feu enamel dial. Initial thoughts The Reine de Naples – named after Napoleon’s sister Caroline Bonaparte, who ordered the long-lost watch while she was Queen of Naples – is available in a bewildering variety of guises covering the entire price spectrum. While the entry-level models tend to look, well, entry-level, the high-end models can be quite exquisite. Going by photos, the new version with an enamel dial falls into the latter category. The enamel dial is simple but distinguished by elegant details like the graceful serifs on the numerals and the quirky minute track inspired by 19th century pocket watches. And the quality promises to be excellent, from dial to movement, going by everything else that Breguet does. It costs a bit under US$40,000, which is mid-range for a Reine de Naples, but reasonable as far as diamond-set ladies’ watches go, especially with a grand feu enamel dial. Diamonds an...

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 is the Swiss and Silicon Valley doing what they do best, together Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 May 3, 2020

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 is the Swiss and Silicon Valley doing what they do best, together

Certain expertise has always been found in specific parts of the world, creating hubs of creativity and technical innovation. So what would happen if you put the watchmaking nous of La Chaux-de-Fonds and the tech capability of Silicon Valley together into a watch? You get the TAG Heuer Connected watch, generation 3. The first generation … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 is the Swiss and Silicon Valley doing what they do best, together appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: If you’re complicated and sporty, do we have two new 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches for you Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches Apr 29, 2020

INTRODUCING: If you’re complicated and sporty, do we have two new 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches for you

The best thing about perpetual calendar watches is they are truly set-and-forget timepieces. So if you’re reading this a few decades from now and you’ve picked up a 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar as a birth-year watch, don’t worry, it won’t need to be adjusted till well into your retirement in 2100. Vacheron Constantin … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: If you’re complicated and sporty, do we have two new 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches for you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Introduces the Pasha de Cartier SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Apr 24, 2020

Cartier Introduces the Pasha de Cartier

As it does every couple of years, or decades, Cartier reintroduces one of its iconic wristwatches, this time the Pasha de Cartier. Launched in 1985 and a big hit in the decade after, the Pasha was Cartier’s original round-case bestseller, long before the Ballon Bleu. Three decades on, the new Pasha makes its debut once again at Watches & Wonders 2020 as a full-fledged collection with models for both men and women, from time-only to skeleton tourbillon, as well as diamond-set versions. Variants of the new Pasha 41 mm for men Mysterious origins Despite having a round case – Cartier is most famous for its shaped watches like the Tank and Santos – the Pasha is amongst the most historically-important Cartier timepieces, apparently. Legend has it that Cartier first created a water-resistant watch in 1934 for the fabulously wealthy Pasha of Marrakesh, Thami El Glaoui, who wanted a watch he could wear while swimming. The result was one of the first-ever luxury-sports watches. While the Parisian jeweller no doubt made a watch to fulfil the Pasha’s request, it was most likely a rectangular Tank Etanche, rather than anything resembling today’s Pasha watch. Inspired by that tale, the modern-day Pasha was born in 1985, penned by the hand of Gerald Genta, the prolific designer whose heyday in the 1970s and 1980s saw him create a string of hits, ranging from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to the Bulgari Bulgari. Genta’s creations were often avant-garde in their day, and his...