Deployant
Sports watch of choice: The Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527
Breguet was the brains behind countless inventions in the watchmaking world. In addition to the tourbillon and the pare-chute shock protection
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Deployant
Breguet was the brains behind countless inventions in the watchmaking world. In addition to the tourbillon and the pare-chute shock protection
At 46mm wide, the BR 01 Laughing Skull is a large watch, and a Clous De Paris guilloche pattern completes its elaborate presentation
Worn & Wound
For years, Seiko fans have been clamoring for the return of the Pogue. From all corners of the internet, enthusiasts never let an opportunity to request a reissue of Seiko’s classic sports chronograph go to waste. The Pogue, otherwise known as reference 6139-6002, is legendary, famous for being on the wrist of NASA astronaut Col. William Pogue on his flight to Skylab. The watch in question was among the first automatic chronographs and issued in a variety of colorways, but it’s Pogue’s mustard yellow dial with a red and blue bezel that is the most collectible, and certainly the Seiko chronograph most of us picture in our mind’s eye when we think “Seiko chronograph.” For reasons the community can no doubt speculate on endlessly, Seiko never has relaunched the Pogue proper, but they’ve come about as close as they ever have with their latest release, the Prospex Speedtimer reference SSC947. We’ll examine the elephant in the room right upfront: this is not a mechanical chronograph, so is perhaps not the true heir to the Pogue legend. What we have in the SSC947 is a new entry in Seiko’s popular and quite good lineup of solar powered sports chronographs. We’re pretty big fans of these watches, which offer a ton of vintage inspired style and endless practicality in a package that’s extremely approachable. The retail price is $700 for watches in this collection, and they’re sized at a versatile 41.4mm. The special sauce with the Speedtimers is really in the...
Hodinkee
The latest iteration of the luxury brand's signature retro racing chronograph is marked by its smaller size, more streamlined dial, and the introduction of the brand's lustrous "Lucent Steel" alloy.
SJX Watches
Having expanded its range of chronographs with a homage to stopwatches and, more recently, new models inspired by the Kinetic Chronograph, Seiko now introduces a pair of vintage-inspired chronographs. The Prospex Speedtimer (SRQ047 and SRQ049) features a distinctively retro style reminiscent of the 1970s and sports a “panda” style dial but with a more compact case than its predecessor. The “panda” SRQ047 is regular production while the “reverse panda” SRQ049 is a limited edition to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the first Seiko wristwatch. Initial thoughts Since its introduction in 2021, the Speedtimer had quite a significant design flaw – its bulky case, measuring over 15 mm high. Therefore, it’s highly gratifying to learn that the brand has opted to refresh the Speedtimer with a more traditional dial and a slimmer case size. Concerning its design, the new models evoke a sense of familiarity by featuring a more rounded case in contrast to the previous Speedtimer models. Furthermore, the brand has introduced a dash of colour to the “panda” style dial by adding an orange tip to the chronograph hands. The limited edition reverse panda model. However, it’s worth noting that the watch has a date window located between four and five. This feature seems somewhat out of place and could have been omitted for a more streamlined look. The standard production Speedtimer is priced at US$2,500, with an additional US$200 for the limited edition. The new mod...
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Time+Tide
Born in the days when drivers didn’t wear seatbelts, in hopes of being ejected from the burning wreckages of their petrol-filled bathtubs on wheels, the Mille Miglia was an iconic open-road endurance race. Much like the similar Mexian Carrera Panamericana, the Italian grand touring spectacle claimed many lives throughout its history, eventually ceasing operation in … ContinuedThe post Chopard unveil five new Mille Miglia chronographs for the 2023 edition of the historic race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having already debuted an oversized take on the ref. 765 AVI “Co-Pilot” of 1953, Breitling now introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42, a scaled-down version that pays homage to the vintage original. Unlike its bigger brother, the 46 mm Super AVI GMT that features a second time zone function, the Classic AVI is a no-frills watch with just the time and chronograph. The Classic AVI makes its debut with a range of regular-production models, each inspired by a historical fighter plane, alongside the limited-edition AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition. Classic AVI Chronograph 42 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk Initial thoughts The Super AVI GMT is a vintage-inspired chronograph with an appealing design, but with the drawback of the 46 mm case – huge by even by modern standards. The introduction of a more compact version is welcome, even if this addition further expands Breitling’s extensive (and sometimes confusing) catalogue. With its smaller case, the Classic AVI has arguably better proportions than its bigger brother, with dimensions better suited to the vintage-inspired styling. And because it is equipped with a Valjoux movement (otherwise known as the Breitling Caliber 23), the Classic AVI is amongst the most affordable Breitling chronographs, adding to its appeal. The P-51 Mustang The P-51 Mustang is the standout among the Classic AVI line-up. It has classic pilot’s chronograph aesthetics with a black dial and faux-patina Arabic numerals that provide a nostalgic feel. But e...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bulova White Prince Jump Hour First up this week we have a really special one. This 1932 Bulova White Prince jump hour / direct read dress watch is truly rare, and this example is in superb condition. I used to collect these 1930’s Deco Bulovas and this has to be the nicest one I’ve ever seen. The hour, minute and seconds are shown on rotating discs through the viewports cut into the case. I mean, does it get any cooler than this?? The 26mm chrome plated case is in excellent condition and looks super sharp. Seller states the caliber 10AT movement has been serviced and runs well. The time discs look original and quite nice with some patina. These really don’t show up for sale all that often, especially in this condition. If this “jumps” out at you, don’t let it slip away. View auction here. Vintage Vulcain Chronograph Vulcain may be famous for their iconic alarm watches, but they also made a plethora of other models, including this simple classic two register chronograph. The silver dial is really clean and has nice big chono subdials. Large stick hands with lume lines in them make this one really easy to read. The case is chrome plated with a steel back, but there doesn’...
Time+Tide
Titoni have evolved many times as a brand, although they’ve always kept up with wristwatch fashion admirably in their century of operation. In fact, it’s hard to believe that their watches aren’t seen more often considering how long they’ve been around. The modern Titoni produce watches of a luxury standard at attainable prices, offering style, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Titoni Heritage Bicompax Chronograph evokes café racer style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Full of warm tones and genuine history, the Hanhart Bronze 417 Chronograph Edition No. 2 “Copperhead” is a pilot’s watch for the stylish set.
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Revolution
The much sought after Hanhart 417 Chronograph for Revolution & The Rake returns in 39mm, the size of the original 1950s 417 model, with a new bronze alloy and a stunning brown sunray dial.
Time+Tide
One of the key pillars of a well-made watch is legibility. Consumers are always critical of how a dial is laid out and how strong and visible the luminescent material becomes once it’s in a darker setting. The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT brightens up 2020 with its … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is seriously lit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having gotten its start by collaborating with independent watchmakers like Habring2, Massena Lab has just unveiled the first watch of its own brand, the Uni-Racer. A vintage-style wristwatch modelled on the Universal Genève Uni-Compax “Big Eye” chronograph of the 1960s, the Uni-Racer features several details that will appeal to enthusiasts, while having an affordable price tag of just under US$3,500. Initial thoughts Like all other remakes of vintage watches, the Uni-Racer reproduces the look of its vintage inspiration, while enlarging everything – the case is 39 mm compared to 37 mm for the original – to suit modern tastes. But unlike most other remakes, the Uni-Racer attends to the details that only a keen-eyed collector would appreciate, which is hardly a surprise since Massena Lab founder William Rohr is a longtime watch collector himself (and probably best known as the former general manager of watch forum Timezone.com). Features like the hand-wind movement and vintage-style buckle indicate the attention to detail in its conception. But there are also the less obvious elements, like the tiny, engraved logo on the crystal and the Massena Lab emblem that resembles an inverted Universal Genève logo. In fact, Massena Lab says it “interviewed former Universal Genève employees and suppliers to confirm original details and aesthetics”. The achievement of the Uni-Racer is not a novel design, but the careful curation of details that give the watch an authentic...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Occasionally, we’ll throw to members of the team to explain themselves when it comes to their endless watch purchases. And on that note, if you wish to work in this team, you must be endlessly purchasing watches of some kind or another. Zach mentioned a couple of weeks ago that he was one … ContinuedThe post Why I bought the Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition Bronze 417 Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Dan Henry is a pretty great little watch brand - the brainchild of a Brazilian watch collector who is dedicated to making affordable modern versions of classic designs. And while other brands go down this path of well-priced retro nostalgia, too often it comes across as inauthentic pastiche. But this isn’t an accusation you can … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1962 Racing Chronograph is perfectly pitched (and priced) nostalgia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Revolution
On 16th October, The Rake celebrated the launch of the Hublot Aerofusion Chronograph ‘Molon Labe’ at the Corinthia, available exclusively from TheRake.com.
Revolution
Wei Koh tells us how with the help of Bell & Ross’ Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo, the “Dusty” and “El Mirage” Bellytanker Chronographs came to be.
The Hublot for The Rake Classic Fusion Aero Chronograph “Molon Labe” will be made in a limited edition of 25 watches launching September 2018.
Revolution
Introducing the perfect watch for every Riviera playboy - TAG Heuer x The Rake & Revolution “Blue Dreamer” Carrera Chronograph.
Revolution
Ross Povey’s top five picks from the upcoming Phillips Watches’ the GENEVA WATCH AUCTION: FIVE, including a prototype Tudor chronograph from the late 1960s.
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Worn & Wound
As Watches & Wonders approaches, I find myself thinking back to last year’s fair and the various high and lowlights from that crop of releases. I’ve commented before about a pretty big highlight of last year’s show being Parmigiani Fleurier’s output, particularly their very strong Toric perpetual calendar. This is one of those watches that I rarely go a week without thinking about, like the woman in the white dress that Bernstein remembers from the ferry in Citizen Kane. Anyway, Parmigiani is always a fun meeting at Watches & Wonders and my expectations are high after last year. In what I imagine will be their last release before the show next month, the brand has just introduced a new pink colorway to the Tonda PF line in 36mm. I’m not sure if we can consider this a preview of things to come (honestly, we probably can’t) but it’s a strong release nonetheless further bolsters the Tonda PF platform as an important player in the integrated bracelet sports watch landscape. The new Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa brings a lighter dial color to the steel version of the 36mm Tonda PF for the first time – previously this watch had been available in blue and two shades of gray. Pink dials of course are often associated with watches targeted toward a female clientele, but hopefully the greater watch collecting community has moved beyond these types of prohibitive norms around gender and watch preferences. This is a really attractive color that can be worn by a...
Monochrome
German entrepreneur Johannes Dürrstein opened a manufacture in Glashütte in 1893 to produce quality Glashütte watches at significantly lower prices than other manufacturers in town. Closed in 1933 and acquired by Swatch Group in 2000, Union Glashütte is proud of its Saxon watchmaking heritage and sticks to the founder’s policy of competitive prices. One of […]
Hodinkee
Here, John tells us about a watch he encountered for the first time while sitting on the jury of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve, and while it didn't take home an award, it was the one piece that really stuck with him.
Revolution
Bell & Ross 05 Skeleton Gold and Diamond
Revolution
Bell & Ross adds a futuristic model to its classic square case collection.
Video
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