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Balance Wheel

The oscillating wheel at the heart of every mechanical watch.

First Look – Two New Gold Versions of the AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm Monochrome
Audemars Piguet increased May 31, 2024

First Look – Two New Gold Versions of the AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm

Openworked or skeletonised watches are treats for the more mechanical-minded admirers of watchmaking, and the more complex the movement, the better. In 2016, Audemars Piguet increased the viewing pleasure two-fold when it unveiled its Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked ref. 15407. As its name indicates, the movement was equipped with two balance wheels, one […]

A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Brew Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Jan 29, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Brew

Welcome to episode 34 of A Week in Watches, where we’ve got managing editor Blake Buettner jumping back in to discuss a handful of new releases, and one important survey. We’re kicking things off with the biggest news of the week that’s focused on something very small from Omega, and that is their new Spirate Balance, which we introduce on the site right here, and react to in real time right here. We still not sure how it’s pronounced but the technology is impressive! The watch its packed in also makes quite the statement, and we’d love to hear your thoughts on this one. That Omega wasn’t the only big news this week, though. Brew dropped a stunning gold Metric on us that works way better than it has any business doing. Is this the watch that gets us into gold? Likely. Next up are a couple releases from the UK, with the 36mm Three Hander collection of watches from Farer, and new C65 Dune watches from Christopher Ward. Lots of unique personality to find in these watches, from big colorful dials, to svelte shapely cases. Finally, we’ve got a watch and wrist size survey from Mark Cho of NYC’s The Armoury. Let your voice be heard by taking the survey found right here. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Br...

MICRO MONDAYS: Julian Michaels’ new releases show the value of breathing space and balance Time+Tide
Aug 29, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Julian Michaels’ new releases show the value of breathing space and balance

It’s getting harder and harder to stand out as a microbrand as dozens seem to pop up every week, but the most distinctive examples are always something special. Julian Michaels are the latest brand to forge an individual identity, but they do so without the need for any gimmicks or garish novelties. Instead, Julian Michaels … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Julian Michaels’ new releases show the value of breathing space and balance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked “Rainbow” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Frosted Jul 7, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked “Rainbow”

Undoubtedly the most technically interesting movement in a time-only Royal Oak, the skeletonised cal. 3132 with twin balance wheels made its debut in a discreet package in 2016. It got fancier attire more recently with a gem-set “rainbow” bezel and hammered case finish, but only with the smaller, 37 mm case. Now “rainbow” meets mechanics in the 41 mm case for the first time – in all three colours of gold no less. Extravagant but surprisingly not that exorbitant in price, the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41 mm combines the largest-sized case with a multicoloured bezel, and most importantly, the twin-oscillator movement. Initial thoughts A unique combination of bling and technical credentials is precisely the appeal of the new Double Balance. Currently fashionable and maybe too common, the multi-coloured gemstone bezel is over the top but it is cool. The movement, on the other hand, is smart. The calibre relies on twin balance wheels, each with its own hairspring, to average out positional errors and improve stability, making for better timekeeping over the long run. This mix of sparkly excess and mechanical achievement is rare, which sets the watch apart from its peers. So if you’re someone who likes “rainbow” watches, this is one of the few that has strong technical merit. And it’s priced at about US$120,000, which is definitely a square deal for such a watch. The only downside is the pronounced lack of availability, which ...

#Kicktock: Hublot’s street-tough dial made from concrete meets its match with New Balance Time+Tide
Hublot s street-tough dial made Dec 15, 2020

#Kicktock: Hublot’s street-tough dial made from concrete meets its match with New Balance

This week we go monochrome in the urban jungle, with the new Hublot Classic Fusion Concrete Jungle New York and an awesome pair of New Balance trainers just dropped on Hypebeast. The gritty edge of concrete is just as fresh as a splash of colour and Hublot’s avant-garde touch is very much present in the … ContinuedThe post #Kicktock: Hublot’s street-tough dial made from concrete meets its match with New Balance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Richemont Fortifies Balance Sheet with €2 Billion Bond Sale SJX Watches
Panerai which make up about May 19, 2020

Business News: Richemont Fortifies Balance Sheet with €2 Billion Bond Sale

Having just announced its full-year results while predicting a gloomy outlook for the business, Richemont has successful placed €2 billion of bonds, with coupon ranging from 0.75% for the 8-year note to 1.625% for the 20-year note. The bond placement boosts the Swiss luxury group’s robust balance sheet, which had a gross cash position of €6.34 billion and a net cash position of €2.40 billion at the end of March 31, 2020. The notes received an A+ rating from credit ratings agency S&P;, which also lowered its outlook for Richemont from stable to negative, “citing the possibility of a downgrade if the coronavirus pandemic causes the company’s credit metrics to worsen”. Widely regarded as a savvy investor who transformed his family’s tobaccco-and-banking empire into an even larger one focused the “hard” luxury of watches and jewellery, Mr Rupert’s belief in the severity of the pandemic-induced recession is obvious. That, in turn, does not bode well for the luxury watch business. Richemont’s biggest earner is Cartier – the jewellery division is half the group’s turnover – it also owns a host of luxury watch brands, including A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, and Panerai, which make up about 20% of its sales. During Richemont’s earning conference call on May 15, Mr Rupert explained the bond issue: “We have always believed in protecting our balance sheet… For years, a lot of investment banks questioned us about that it’s a lazy balance sheet. But h...

Looking through Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Double Aug 4, 2019

Looking through Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked

Editor’s note: Make no bones about it, skeleton watches are not to everyone’s taste. Legibility is sometimes less clear than a watch with a solid dial, but this is because time telling is almost ancillary to the stunning exposé that the watch offers. A skeleton dial offers a view typically reserved for a watchmaker in … ContinuedThe post Looking through Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Micro-Brand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore SJX Watches
Nivada Grenchen Nov 4, 2025

Micro-Brand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore

Now taking place for the fifth year, Spring Sprang Sprung (SPRG) is a watch fair dedicated to micro-brands that is returning in November 2025. The Singapore-based event has grown from 22 brands in its first year to over 50 this year. The exhibitor list this year includes brands from Finland to China, as well as names that are arguably more established than the average micro-brand, like Oris, Nivada Grenchen, and Seagull. Also exhibiting are accessories makers, like Yi Leather that makes watch straps. As with past iterations of SPRG, the event includes workshops, one of which is a leather working class led by the proprietor of Yi Leather. SPRG’s founders are a pair integral to the micro-brand scene in Singapore: Sugiharto Kusumadi, who was a pioneering retailer of micro-brands when he founded Red Army Watches in 2004, and Yong Keong Lim, who owns Feynman Timekeepers and runs retailer BIG Time. According to its founders, SPRG aims to be “casual, welcoming, and inclusive… [bringing] together independent watch brand owners, enthusiasts, and newcomers to share their passion for horology”. SPRG takes place at the at the National Design Centre, November 8-9, 2025, from 11 am-7 pm. National Design Centre 111 Middle Road Singapore 188969 The event is open to the public, but workshops are ticketed with tickets available at Spring-sprang-sprung.com.  

Qian GuoBiao’s Double Balance Wheel Proves Less Can Still Impress Fratello
Aug 11, 2025

Qian GuoBiao’s Double Balance Wheel Proves Less Can Still Impress

The latest creation to leave Qian GuoBiao’s bench is the Double Balance Wheel, a watch that takes a quieter approach than his last major release, Facing The Sky 2.0. By contrast, Double Balance Wheel is stripped back to the essentials. It is about balance, proportion, and mechanical harmony. And yet, it is already making its […] Visit Qian GuoBiao’s Double Balance Wheel Proves Less Can Still Impress to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT $6,900 Jul 22, 2025

Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925

There’s something satisfying about handling a watch that feels like it knows exactly what it is. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 (L3.803.5.53.6) landed on my wrist with that kind of confident presence-not shouting for attention, but quietly competent in the way good tool watches should be. At 39mm with a mix of steel and 18-karat rose gold, it’s Longines’ centennial nod to their 1925 original, the world’s first dual time zone wristwatch. The question isn’t whether it’s historically significant-it obviously is-but whether it actually earns its place in today’s crowded GMT field. Longines, GMT Watches, and the Inevitable Tudor Question Let’s address the elephant in the room: if you’re shopping GMT watches around this price point, you’ve probably looked at the Tudor Black Bay GMT ($4,675). It’s the obvious comparison, sitting at roughly the same price with similar functionality. But where Tudor leans into its diving heritage with a rotating 24-hour bezel, Longines approaches GMT complications from their aviation roots. The Spirit Zulu Time 1925 isn’t trying to be a dive watch that happens to track time zones-it’s purpose-built for travelers and pilots who need to know what time it is “there.” The other natural competitors include the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT ($6,900), the Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer ($3,175), and the NOMOS Zürich Worldtimer ($6,100). But it’s worth noting these watches solve the multi-timezone problem...

Singapore Micro-Brand Fair “Spring Sprang Sprung” Returns SJX Watches
Oris Sep 10, 2024

Singapore Micro-Brand Fair “Spring Sprang Sprung” Returns

A fair dedicated to micro brands, Spring Sprang Sprung returns for its third year and will take place at the National Library Singapore from October 18-20, 2024. Now bigger than in previous years, the annual event will play host over 43 exhibitors this year, mostly micro brands like Singapore-based Zelos, but also including bigger names like Oris. Spring Sprang Sprung was founded Sugiharto Kusumadi of Singapore retailer Red Army Watches and Yong Keong Lim of micro brand Feynman. As in past years, the event will be more than just a watch exhibition. It encompasses talks and classes, including a leather-crafting workshop, as well as live music by local musician Sheng Li. Tickets are required to attend and can be obtained online via registration on Spring-sprang-sprung.com.  

Audemars Piguet Scales Down the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Scales Down Jul 23, 2024

Audemars Piguet Scales Down the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked

Audemars Piguet (AP) first unveiled the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in 2016, in full-sized 41 mm format. It’s a technically interesting take on the brand’s signature luxury-sports watch. While it is a time-only watch, the skeletonised movement sports a pair of mirrored, superimposed balance wheels and hairsprings. Though already available in 37 mm with a sparkly “frosted” case or entirely gem-set, the 37 mm model wasn’t offered in the classic Royal Oak finish. Now the movement makes its debut in a compact 37 mm case in the traditional brushed-and-polished finish. It’s available in either pink or white gold with the open-worked movement colour-matched to the case metal. Initial thoughts  The Double Balance Wheel model is something of a halo model for the Royal Oak range. Though it is not complicated in the functional sense, it is equipped with an interesting feature that theoretically contributes to chronometry. Add to that the distinctive aesthetics of the skeletonised movement, and the result is a watch that is classical Royal Oak in design yet more sophisticated in technical terms. The original 41 mm model, however, was fairly large, and the angular form of the Royal Oak accentuated the size. The original 37 mm models were extravagant and perhaps too over-the-top for everyday wear. The new pair is easily more wearable and should appeal to a wider audience. The new models are each priced at US$98,100, which is comparable to the earlier versions...

Five Digital Watches for Spring Running and Fitness Worn & Wound
Casio n Apr 10, 2024

Five Digital Watches for Spring Running and Fitness

Spring has sprung, and the warmer weather is a great excuse and motivation to get outside and get moving. Of course, having the right timepiece for the right occasion is paramount. A digital watch comes easily to mind thanks to its simplicity, legibility, and functionality, and to that end, here are five digital watches we’d consider excellent fitness and running pals. All are available right here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is ready to answer any questions you have. You can even arrange a consultation at your convenience. Spring has sprung, and the warmer weather is a great excuse and motivation to get outside and get moving. Of course, having the right timepiece for the right occasion is paramount. A digital watch comes easily to mind thanks to its simplicity, legibility, and functionality, and to that end, here are five digital watches we’d consider excellent fitness and running pals. All are available right here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is ready to answer any questions you have. You can even arrange a consultation at your convenience. The post Five Digital Watches for Spring Running and Fitness appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Microbrand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore SJX Watches
Behrens Boldr Oct 18, 2023

Microbrand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore

Following on from its inaugural event last October, Spring Sprang Sprung (SPRG) is set to return to XM Studios in Singapore from October 20-22. With a growing roster of microbrands exhibiting, the exhibitors will also be joined by Oris. Founded by Yong Keong Lim, owner of Feynman Timekeepers, and Sugiharto Kusumadi, founder of Red Army Watches, the concept behind SPRG is a community-minded watch fair that is casual, welcoming and inclusive. With a number of talks and practical workshops planned over the three days to accompany the 36 exhibiting brands, there will be plenty to do.  With a focus on local and regional microbrands, leather-goods makers, and watch storage specialists, the exhibitors include Behrens, Boldr, and Yi Leather. A number of brands will also be using the fair as a platform to launch new products. Hoping to make the fair open to as many people as possible, entry is free with tickets available through an online registration. SPRG will be open from October 20-22, 11 am-6 pm daily, apart from the last day when it closes at 5 pm.  XM Studios Kitchener Complex, Level 3 809 French Road Singapore 200809 To register for a free ticket, click here. 

Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes Worn & Wound
Sep 12, 2023

Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes

We love seeing watches that break free of the well established genre specific design codes, offering an original perspective that doesn’t necessarily take the beaten path. When it comes to dive watch in particular, this can be a challenge, though it can indeed be done. The dive watch template is simple and straightforward, making it especially challenging to carve a unique path, which often happens in subtle ways. This is a genre with a deep and easily recognizable heritage, and many new watches and watch brands tend to lean on these a bit too heavily, creating a somewhat homogeneous landscape of divers. The watches we’re looking at today from Fleux, are no exception, however they do bring something unique to the table at the same time.  The watches are the FLX001 and FLX002, a pair of skin divers that offer a perfectly comfortable design at a glance, sitting well within that dive watch archetype mold. There is clear old-school inspiration at work, but there’s a modern sheen applied that manages to find a pleasant balance between the inspiration, and the forward looking intent. These watches manage this in a manner that can be tricky to put a finger on, meaning it feels relatively organic in the process, and somewhat retro-futuristic as a side effect. A fact first tipped off by the brand’s motto: “vintage inspired; continually new”. $450 Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes Case Stainless Steel Movement SII SH38A Automati...

Roger Dubuis Combines the Inclined Balance and Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Richard Mille which Jul 21, 2023

Roger Dubuis Combines the Inclined Balance and Flyback Chronograph

One of the latest releases from Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, makes the most of its openworked dial to show off a newly-developed calibre, the RD780, which combines an inclined balance wheel with an integrated chronograph. A complex movement with two patents pending, the RD780 is notably elaborate with unusual features like a digital minute counter and twin barrels. And technically-minded enthusiasts will also note the RD780 boasts diamond-coated silicon escapement parts, which are both wear- and magnetism-resistant. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current chronographs distinguish themselves through bold design and flashy technical features. While the style is outlandish, it is refreshing to see this unique approach to a chronograph design, particularly since the technical features are novel and interesting, such as the inclined balance wheel and column wheel, visible through the openworked dial. But the Excalibur chronograph’s technical merits are perhaps overshadowed by the design, which is excessive in a hyper-mechanical style. The chronograph’s dial is busy, even for an openworked dial. It is not easy to read, even when compared to what is being offered by the likes of Richard Mille, which is perhaps the closest comparison to the Excalibur chronograph. The Excalibur chronograph is priced at US$101,500, making it more affordable than the equivalent from Richard Mille, the RM 72-01. In fact, the Excalibur is half as expensive as the Richar...

Ed Sheeran hands out free pizzas while wearing a six-figure “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Ref.1518 – the first serially produced Jul 11, 2023

Ed Sheeran hands out free pizzas while wearing a six-figure “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona ref. 6263

If you’re a budding watch-spotter, Ed Sheeran is the gift that just keeps on giving.  Highlights in his watch box include the Patek Philippe Ref.1518 – the first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph in the world of which just 281 were produced – and the Patek Philippe Ref.5208P-001, a platinum-cased grand complication that is valued north of … ContinuedThe post Ed Sheeran hands out free pizzas while wearing a six-figure “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SevenFriday Introduces the Peculiar and Alien Free-D SJX Watches
Richard Mille Mar 27, 2022

SevenFriday Introduces the Peculiar and Alien Free-D

A maker of affordable watches with unconventional styling, SevenFriday is now a decade old. To commemorate the milestone, the brand has unveiled the Free-D. To put it mildly, the Free-B adds three-dimensionality to the brand’s trademark time display comprised of rotating discs. And in a first for the brand, which has historically relied on Miyota, the Free-D is powered by a Swiss-made movement, Sellita to be exact. Initial thoughts While SevenFriday has increasingly felt like a “fashion” brand with its endless iterations of the same design, the brand has produced timepieces that are genuinely compelling. The Free-D is certainly one of the more interesting examples of its unorthodox design, though the over-the-top style is an acquired taste to say the least. Bold, extra large, and definitely peculiar, the Free-D is actually based on the brand’s signature “squircle” case but dressed up with a 3D-printed external shell and lugs. The added parts do exactly what they are meant to, which is to elaborate on the brand’s traditional case style to distinguish it for the anniversary. And they give the watch a decidedly alien aesthetic – it looks like a prop from a sci-fi film. At the same time, the external cladding on the case is essentially plastic. Granted, plastic of various types is widely used in high-end watchmaking – Richard Mille and Hublot are proponents of its use – but it is certainly not for everyone. In contrast, the time display is simple but easy...