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The Omega Spirate System: A New Idea in Balance Spring Technology
The Omega Spirate is a new type of balance spring. It isn’t just a flashy concept piece, it is a practical advancement capable of improving horology.
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Worn & Wound
Sinn Unveils their Spring Novelties, Including a Manually Wound 103 Chronograph and New HYDRO U50 Divers
Sinn dropped their Spring novelties this morning, an event that’s always of keen interest to hardcore watch enthusiasts. Sinn is one of our favorite brands for a whole number of reasons, but I’ve always felt that part of their appeal is in their somewhat elusive, “if you know, you know,” nature. Part of that is the fact that they have a single American distributor, and don’t have the flashiest social media presence. In the US, they still seem very German and are truly a brand for connoisseurs. If you see someone wearing a Sinn, you know that they sought it out, and that it might not have been easy to find. Sinn’s pattern for novelty releases over the last few years seems to be to release a mix of modern tool watches and vintage throwbacks simultaneously. This year’s vintage throwback is a manually wound chronograph, the 103 St Ty Hd. The 103 is their core chronograph model, the simplest and arguably least fussy, and has been made in a huge number of variants over the years. This new version has a steel case and old-fashioned acrylic crystal, and a panda-style dial layout with red accents. Fans of the 103 will notice immediately that the 12, 6, 9 (with day/date at 3) layout from previous 103 references is missing, a result of the manually wound Sellita SW 510 M powering the new watch. Here we get a classic three register, no date dial in the same familiar 41mm case. This is Sinn’s first manually wound 103 in 20 years, which should make the release of the...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT “Champagne Diamond” SBGE267G
Just announced as an exclusive for Seiko’s longtime distributor in several Asian countries, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT “Champagne Diamond” SBGE267G is a variation on Grand Seiko’s longstanding Spring Drive GMT sports watch with its characteristic sapphire-covered bezel and sloping case flanks. Dressed in richer colours than the black or blue of the typical Grand Seiko sports watch, the SBGE267G has a dial rendered in metallic brown that’s matched with yellow gold-plated hands and indices. Executed in steel, the SBGE267G is powered by the 9R66 Spring Drive movement that has a second time zone function. And it’s an edition of 140 pieces meant for five countries, making it a fairly small run relative to other recent Grand Seiko limited editions. Initial thoughts Over the last couple of years, Grand Seiko has rolled out a variety of limited editions in a diversity of dial colours, but the SBGE267G still manages to be be different. Its look is distinctly more luxe than the standard Spring Drive GMT – the chestnut brown employed for the dial is unusual for Grand Seiko and striking, particularly combined with the gilt hands and markers. The brushed metallic dial surface catches the light nicely In the usual Grand Seiko fashion, the quality of the watch is excellent, with the dial and hands being especially outstanding for a watch of this price. Fabricated with a diamond-tipped tool, the hour markers and hands all have razor-sharp edges and near-mirrored su...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The new Grand Seiko SBGC238 Limited Edition Spring Drive Chronograph is futuristic, aggressive, brilliant
I am beginning to run out of synonyms for the scope of Grand Seiko for 2020, with yet another impressive reference being pulled out of what seems to be a very deep hat. This time we are looking at the Grand Seiko SBGC238, a limited edition of the largest most angular case possibly ever from … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Grand Seiko SBGC238 Limited Edition Spring Drive Chronograph is futuristic, aggressive, brilliant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Blue Snowflake” SBGA407
One of the all-time best-selling Grand Seiko watches is the Spring Drive “Snowflake”, which gets the name from the its distinctive textured dial. And until recently, the snowflake dial was only available on models with bracelets, save for a few pricey limited editions with gold cases. That changed last year when Grand Seiko debuted the Spring Drive “Blue Snowflake” SBGA407. It combines the famous dial with a more classical case, and a good deal of practicality – date, Spring Drive accuracy, and a surprising 100 m water resistance. On the wrist While most Grand Seiko watches are pretty discreet on the wrist, the “Blue Snowflake” makes a statement due to its colour. The styling is most definitely old school, but the pale-blue dial is both modern and unusual; it’s an unorthodox colour for a man’s watch, especially one that leans towards the dress-watch category, but it works. And the “Blue Snowflake” is also a manageable but modern size. The case is a bit over 40 mm in diameter, and fairly thick, while the bezel is narrow. The result is a watch that wears well and has a good presence on the wrist (with one caveat that is common to Grand Seiko watches on straps: the band has odd proportions, with one side being unnecessarily long). The snowflake story The original “Snowflake” was the Grand Seiko Spring Drive ref. SBGA011 (now known as the SBGA211) that made its debut in 2005. While it did have a titanium case and bracelet, which was fairly uncommon a...
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I Opened A FREE Rolex Shop Outside A Rolex Boutique
SJX Watches
Auction Report: Albert Piguet Double-Balance Resonance Watch Sells for CHF250,000
One of the most interesting lots in the second instalment of Masterworks of Time at Sotheby’s that just concluded was a seemingly unassuming pocket watch with an estimate of just 7,000-10,000 Swiss francs. But the pocket watch contains a movement with a single gear train driving double balance wheels linked by a differential, constructed to keep time according to the principles of resonance. This is one of the very movements that inspired Philippe Dufour to create the Duality. And its appearance at auction comes at an opportune time, with F.P. Journe going to launch an entirely new Resonance movement in 2020. The Philippe Dufour Duality Mr Piguet of Lemania The movement was made by Albert G. Piguet (1914-2000), a noted watchmaker who finished the movement in 1933, just before graduating from the École d’Horlogerie in Le Sentier, then the premiere watchmaking school in the Vallee de Joux. He joined movement maker Lemania after graduation, and eventually rose to technical director. Piguet stayed in that role from 1948 to 1980, during which he helped develop numerous calibres, including the important CH27 chronograph movement that later became the cal. 321 found in the early Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, and also the cal. 2310 used by the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Piguet’s 1933 pocket watch movement is just one of six produced between 1932 and 1934 by students at the watchmaking school, working under the tutelage of headmaster Marcel Builleumi...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s epic Spring Drive Chronograph – the SBGC203
In general, Grand Seiko has a reputation for being somewhat stealthy on the wrist - but, to be honest, that’s not the case with this chunk of finely crafted steel, better known as the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC203. At a sizeable 43.5mm across by 16.1mm tall, this isn’t the sort of watch that … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s epic Spring Drive Chronograph – the SBGC203 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Blue, gold and oh-so-bold, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248
Grand Seiko has something of a reputation for finely finished understatement. This watch is, well, a little extra. That’s not to say that the Grand Seiko SBGE248 isn’t as finely finished as you’d expect, it’s just that, thanks to its popping blue and gold colourway, this Grand Seiko isn’t under anyone’s radar. Which, honestly, is … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Blue, gold and oh-so-bold, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
44mm of Japanese brawn – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium (ref. SBGE215G)
Editor’s note: Sure, the mighty Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium (ref. SBGE215G to its friends) might lack the fancy dials of the Snowflake and the new manual-wind Spring Drives but, good golly, it makes up for it in sheer presence. The case, the bezel, the gold detailing. It bangs. It’s fair to say … ContinuedThe post 44mm of Japanese brawn – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium (ref. SBGE215G) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The SBGE215G – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium
It’s fair to say that much of Grand Seiko’s catalogue leans towards the dressier end of the spectrum - but, of course, there are exceptions, and the SBGE215G is a perfect example. This sporty GMT is an evolution of the SBGE201G; it shares the same large 44mm case. But while the SBGE201G had a steel … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The SBGE215G – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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NEWS: What happened to Patek? eBay is now free!
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Golden Snowflake – Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive SBGA259
Grand Seiko’s Snowflake (the more evocative name for the SBGA211 née SBGA011) is undoubtedly one of the most popular watches in their line-up, and understandably so. With its titanium case, seductive Spring Drive movement and one of the best-loved dials in the business, it’s remained unchanged (reference number and dial naming convention) since 2010 (see … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Golden Snowflake – Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive SBGA259 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Everyday simplicity done right – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA375
Are you looking for a high quality, reliable and not-boring daily wearer? Check out the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA375.The post HANDS-ON: Everyday simplicity done right – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA375 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology explained … in 2 minutes
Fundamentally, there’s not a whole lot of variation in watch movements. Sure, the peripheral details might vary, but basically you’re either looking at a purely mechancial movement, with a mainspring and escapement setup that’s remained pretty much unchanged for the last few hundred years, or you’re looking at a battery-powered quartz watch that’s come to … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology explained … in 2 minutes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The purity of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake
One of Grand Seiko’s most in-demand and instantly identifiable watches is the Snowflake, AKA the SBGA211. For many, this pure, and deceptively simple, watch epitomises the high-end Japanese maker, and it certainly exhibits all the Grand Seiko hallmarks: exceptional casework, precise finishing techniques, and those glimmering hands and hour markers. And then, of course, there’s … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The purity of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Spring Drive GMT (ref. SBGC219)
Last year Grand Seiko released a new-look, sporty, modular, ceramic and titanium Spring Drive Chronograph. It was a bold change of pace for the usually buttoned-up brand, and I’ve got to say it both surprised and delighted me. Baselworld 2017 sees the return of this modular approach, in the form of the Black Ceramic Collection … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Spring Drive GMT (ref. SBGC219) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique is simple and shtick-free
Time+Tide
ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 18 – The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC017
“Oh Christmas tree, oh Christmas tree…uhhhh, what are you doing on this Grand Seiko dial?” Seiko must have been in the Xmas spirit when the dial of this Grand Seiko was in development. Of course, the story goes that it’s actually a fir tree, which is celebrated in the Onbashira Festival that’s held in Suwa, near where … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 18 – The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC017 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Baselworld 2016: Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Square Tourbillon Double Balance Spring Sector Dial
Some novelties from the Indies in Baselworld 2016: Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Square Tourbillon Double Balance Spring Sector Dial.
Deployant
Grand Seiko Marinemaster Spring Drive
Another one in the series of Quickshots…the Seiko Marinemaster Spring Drive. Also another one I count as fascinating value for money catagory. Seiko is one of the under rated companies in the world of high horology. While the world fusses over the Swiss and Germans…quietly, our Japanese friends in Shiojiri have been creating amazingly beautifulRead More
Deployant
Grand Seiko: Spring Drive SBGE001
Apologies for falling slightly behind on my postings. I was in Dresden for the final review of my book last week, and some blip with blogger.com caused the Friday post to disappear. But today, I go back one of my favourites…the Spring Drive… The bezel is in sapphire. Long before Rolex or anyone else startedRead More
Monochrome
First Look – The Gold Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SLGB006 Ice Forest at Dawn
Last year was a watershed moment for Grand Seiko with its announcement of the world’s “most accurate mainspring-driven movement”. Crafted in the Shinshu Watch Studio, the brand’s groundbreaking Calibre 9RB2 – with an annual deviation of only ±20 seconds – debuted in Evolution 9 cases. True to Japanese reverence for nature and Grand Seiko’s talent […]
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Monochrome
In-Depth – The Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver, GS’ Smallest and Most Accurate Dive Watch
While dive watches are fundamental to Seiko’s Prospex collection, the concept is slightly less natural for Grand Seiko. At first sight… Indeed, the higher-end brand of Seiko Corporation has been active in the field of purpose-built diving instruments since 2008, delivering impressive models, whether in terms of specs, looks or, unfortunately, size. One of the main complaints heard […]
Fratello
Sinn Introduces Four New Models Ahead Of Watches And Wonders: The 544, 544 RS, 308, And 936 S
Watches and Wonders 2026 kicks off next week, and this year marks Sinn’s first appearance at the fair. Likely to stir up excitement for this debut, the brand introduces four models ahead of the show. The lineup includes two versions of the 544, the limited 936 S chronograph, and the more unconventional 308 Hunting Watch. […] Visit Sinn Introduces Four New Models Ahead Of Watches And Wonders: The 544, 544 RS, 308, And 936 S to read the full article.
Fratello
Entry-Level Cartier: Four Options From New To Vintage
Cartier is a brand that has been on an absolute roll in recent years. Some readers may remember a time when self-proclaimed watch geeks unfairly considered Cartier “a jewelry brand that also sells watches.” However, the tide of perception has truly shifted in the last decade or so, and Cartier’s timepieces now seem hotter than […] Visit Entry-Level Cartier: Four Options From New To Vintage to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The new Steel and Purple Dial Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ice Forest SLGB005
Earlier this year, at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, Grand Seiko unveiled a new and rather important collection, fitted with a brand new movement and carrying a meaningful name, the Spring Drive UFA. Now, if you’re a GS fan, you’ll immediately spot the connection with the VFA models of the past, as the new Ultra […]
Deployant
New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A.
Grand Seiko releases a new addition to their Spring Drive U.F.A model with Caliber 9RB2 which was first shown at WWG this year. The new release is in a special stainless steel and a deep violet textured dial. Press Release information with commentary in italics. New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. The Grand Seiko SpringRead More
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