Sister brands, sibling watches
Tudor is wholly-owned by Rolex SA and shares manufacturing infrastructure. Tudor was founded by Hans Wilsdorf (Rolex's founder) in 1926 specifically to produce dive watches at lower price points; the strategy held.
Today the BB58 is Tudor's 39mm vintage-leaning diver, while the Submariner 124060 is the 41mm modern reference. Both share screwed-down crown architecture, COSC-grade movements (Tudor MT5402 and Rolex Cal. 3230), and dive-watch heritage from the same Geneva backyard.
Spec sheet
| Attribute | Tudor Black Bay 58 | Rolex Submariner (no-date) |
|---|---|---|
| Reference | 79030N | 124060 |
| Case diameter | 39mm × 11.9mm | 41mm × 12.5mm |
| Case material | Stainless steel | 904L Oystersteel |
| Bezel insert | Black aluminium (gloss) | Black Cerachrom (ceramic) |
| Water resistance | 200m | 300m |
| Movement | Cal. MT5402 (in-house) | Cal. 3230 (in-house) |
| Reserve | 70 hours | 70 hours |
| Beat rate | 28,800 vph (4 Hz) | 28,800 vph (4 Hz) |
| Antimagnetic hairspring | Silicon | Parachrom |
| Bracelet | Riveted-look steel | Oyster 904L |
| Retail price | ~€3,910 | ~€10,500 (allocation-only) |
| Secondary market | At retail | Premium over retail |
€3,910 vs €10,500: where the gap goes
The Submariner is built from 904L Oystersteel (more corrosion-resistant than 316L), has a Cerachrom ceramic bezel insert (scratch-proof vs the BB58's aluminium), is rated to 300m vs 200m water resistance, includes the Glidelock clasp extension, and runs a Parachrom hairspring. The BB58 has aluminium bezel, 200m, no extension clasp, and silicon hairspring. The €6,500 gap buys: ceramic, 904L, depth rating, clasp, brand.
Wrist: 39mm vs 41mm
The BB58 sits in vintage proportion (39mm × 11.9mm); the modern Sub at 41mm × 12.5mm wears slightly bigger. For wrists 6.25-7", BB58 fits more naturally; 7" and up, both work but the Sub feels more substantial. Lug-to-lug is also a factor: BB58 47mm vs Sub 47.5mm, similar.
Allocation vs at-retail
The Submariner has been on multi-year waitlists since 2020. Authorised dealers won't quote a delivery date. Secondary market sits 1.3-1.6x retail. The BB58 is at MSRP at any AD with weekly stock turnover. If you walk into a retailer and want to leave with a watch, BB58 is the answer.
Pros and cons
Black Bay 58 · Pros
- Available at retail; no waitlist
- Silicon hairspring (antimagnetic)
- 70h reserve same as Sub
- Vintage gilt aesthetic
- €6,500 cheaper than Sub at retail
Black Bay 58 · Cons
- Aluminium bezel insert (less scratch-resistant than Cerachrom)
- 200m vs Sub's 300m water resistance
- No bracelet extension clasp
- Less brand-status signal than the Sub
Submariner (no-date) · Pros
- 904L Oystersteel case
- Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel insert
- 300m water resistance
- Glidelock extension clasp
- Cultural status as the original luxury diver
Submariner (no-date) · Cons
- Allocation-only at AD; multi-year wait
- 1.3-1.6x retail on secondary market
- €6,500 retail premium over the BB58
Verdict: which one?
If you want a wearable everyday-diver you can buy now: BB58. Same factory, similar movement architecture, gilt vintage feel, €3,910.
If you have AD allocation history and want the cultural reference: Submariner 124060. Cerachrom + 904L + 300m + the brand. €10,500 retail is fair if you can actually buy one.
For most buyers, the answer is BB58 first. Many buyers eventually own both: the BB58 for daily wear and the Submariner as an aspirational acquisition years later. They are sibling watches; not direct competitors.
Common questions
Are Tudor and Rolex the same company?
Tudor is wholly owned by Rolex SA and was founded in 1926 by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf specifically to make dive watches at lower price points. The two share manufacturing infrastructure, which is why the BB58 and the Submariner share screwed-down crown architecture and COSC-grade in-house movements.
What does the price gap between the BB58 and the Submariner actually buy?
The Submariner adds a 904L Oystersteel case, a scratch-proof Cerachrom ceramic bezel insert (versus the BB58 aluminium), a 300m depth rating (versus 200m), the Glidelock extension clasp and a Parachrom hairspring, plus the Rolex name. The BB58 covers the essentials - in-house COSC movement, 70-hour reserve, silicon hairspring - for around €3,910.
Can I actually buy a Rolex Submariner at retail?
Rarely. The Submariner 124060 has been on multi-year authorised-dealer waitlists since 2020, and the secondary market sits around 1.3 to 1.6 times its ~€10,500 retail. The Tudor BB58 is in stock at MSRP at most authorised dealers, so if you want to walk out with a watch the same day, it is the BB58.
BB58 or Submariner: which should I buy first?
For most buyers it is the BB58 first: same factory, similar movement architecture, vintage gilt feel, and around €6,500 cheaper at retail. Plenty of owners eventually have both, wearing the BB58 daily and treating the Submariner as a later aspirational acquisition. They are sibling watches, not direct rivals.
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