Audemars Piguet
AP Caliber 2121
The 3.05 mm ultra-thin automatic that powered the original 1972 Royal Oak ref. 5402 and the Jumbo 15202 until 2022. Based on JLC Cal. 920, sibling of Vacheron 1120.
2.75 Hz · 40 h PR · 36 jewels · 3.05 mm thin · Central rotor on peripheral rail · Replaced by Cal. 7121 (2022)
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Audemars Piguet
AP Caliber 3120 / 4302
The 2005 / 2019 in-house Royal Oak automatics that succeeded the JLC-shared Cal. 2120. 22-kt gold central rotor, free-sprung balance, 60-70 h reserve.
3 Hz (3120) / 4 Hz (4302) · 60-70 h PR · 22-kt gold rotor · Free-sprung balance
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Audemars Piguet
AP Caliber 4401
AP's first integrated in-house chronograph (2019). Column-wheel + vertical clutch + flyback, 70 h reserve, 3-6-9 symmetrical layout. In the modern Royal Oak Chronograph 41.
4 Hz · 70 h PR · 40 jewels · Column-wheel + vertical clutch · Flyback · 3-6-9 layout
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Audemars Piguet
AP Caliber 7121
The 2022 in-house automatic that replaced the legendary Cal. 2121 in the Royal Oak Jumbo (ref. 16202). 55 h reserve, free-sprung balance, off-centre rotor on ball bearings. End of the JLC 920 era.
4 Hz · 55 h PR · 32 jewels · 3.2 mm thin · Free-sprung balance · Ball-bearing rotor
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Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet 2120
The 1967 ultra-thin (2.45 mm) automatic developed jointly with JLC, Patek, and Vacheron. Peripheral full rotor on 4 ceramic balls. Powered the original 1972 Royal Oak.
2.75 Hz · 40 h PR · 36 jewels · 2.45 mm · Peripheral 22kt gold rotor on 4 ceramic balls
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Breguet
Breguet Caliber 502.3
Breguet's 2.4 mm in-house ultra-thin automatic, in the Classique 5197, 7137, and Marine 5517. Silicon hairspring, hand-engine-turned 22k gold rotor, all the Breguet finishing signatures.
4 Hz · 45 h PR · 35 jewels · 2.4 mm thin · Silicon hairspring · Hand-engine-turned 22k gold rotor
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Breitling
Breitling B01
The first wholly in-house Breitling chronograph (2009): column-wheel + vertical clutch, 70 h reserve, COSC. The same architecture Tudor licenses as the MT5813.
4 Hz · 70 h PR · 47 jewels · Column-wheel + vertical clutch · COSC
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Breitling
Breitling B19
The 2021 in-house perpetual calendar chronograph in the Premier B19 Datora. B01 base + perpetual module, 96 h reserve, ~USD 30-40k entry to perpetual chronos.
4 Hz · 96 h PR · Perpetual calendar + chronograph · Column-wheel + vertical clutch
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Breitling
Breitling B20
The Tudor MT5612 base in the Superocean Heritage II and Premier Automatic. Free-sprung balance, silicon hairspring, COSC, 70 h reserve. From the 2017 partnership.
4 Hz · 70 h PR · 26 jewels · Silicon hairspring · Free-sprung · COSC
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Bulgari
Bulgari BVL 138 Finissimo
The world's thinnest serially-produced automatic at launch (2017): 2.23 mm. Peripheral platinum micro-rotor, 60 h reserve. In the Octo Finissimo Automatic.
3 Hz · 60 h PR · 36 jewels · 2.23 mm · Peripheral platinum micro-rotor · Record-thin auto
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Bulova
Bulova Accutron 214
The first electronic wristwatch (1960). 360 Hz tuning-fork regulator, ±2 sec/day, by Max Hetzel. The Spaceview shows the mechanism through the dial.
360 Hz tuning fork · ±2 sec/day · Mercury cell · Designed by Max Hetzel · 1960-1977
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Breitling / Heuer / Buren
Caliber 11 Chronomatic
The 1969 Chronomatic: Breitling, Heuer, Hamilton-Buren and Dubois Dépraz consortium auto chronograph. Modular micro-rotor base + chrono module. Powered the Heuer Monaco.
2.75 Hz · 42 h PR · 17 jewels · Modular (Buren micro-rotor + Dubois Dépraz) · Crown left
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Cartier
Cartier 1847 MC
Cartier's second in-house automatic (2018) for the redesigned Santos. 4 Hz, 42 h reserve, paramagnetic shielding. Named for the year Cartier was founded.
4 Hz · 42 h PR · 23 jewels · Paramagnetic shielding · Made in La Chaux-de-Fonds
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Cartier
Cartier 1904 MC
Cartier's first wholly in-house automatic, launched in 2010 with the Calibre de Cartier. Free-sprung balance, double ceramic ball-bearing rotor, 4 Hz, 48 h reserve.
4 Hz · 48 h PR · 27 jewels · Free-sprung balance · Bidirectional rotor · Made in La Chaux-de-Fonds
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Casio
Casio Module 5611
The digital quartz module inside the iconic full-metal G-Shock Square GMW-B5000 (35th anniversary). Tough Solar, multi-band 6 atomic-clock sync, Bluetooth, 200 m water resistance.
Digital quartz · Tough Solar · Multi-band 6 atomic sync · Bluetooth · 200 m WR · 26-month dark reserve
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Chopard
Chopard L.U.C. 96.01-L
The 1996 in-house micro-rotor that defined Chopard's rebirth as a serious watchmaker. 22k gold rotor, twin barrels for 65 h reserve, Geneva Seal. Foundation of every L.U.C. caliber.
4 Hz · 65 h PR · 29 jewels · Twin Technology (2 barrels) · 22k gold micro-rotor · Geneva Seal
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Citizen
Citizen Caliber 0100
The most accurate production wristwatch in the world: ±1 second per year. 8.4 MHz AT-cut thermo-compensated quartz, Eco-Drive light-powered, perpetual calendar through 2400.
8.4 MHz · ±1 sec/year · Eco-Drive (no battery) · 6-month dark reserve · Perpetual calendar · The accuracy benchmark
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ETA / Swatch Group
ETA 2824-2
The cheap, robust Swiss automatic in nearly every entry-tier watch: Hamilton, Tissot, Mido, Tudor (pre-MT). Around 50 million produced.
4 Hz · 38 h PR · 25 jewels · 4.6 mm thick · The most-serviced Swiss movement
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ETA / Swatch Group
ETA 2892-A2
The thin Swiss workhorse used by IWC, Breitling, Omega Aqua Terra (pre-Master), Cartier, and dozens of independents. 3.6 mm thick, 25.6 mm diameter.
4 Hz · 42 h PR · 21 jewels · 3.6 mm thick · Modular base for chronographs
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ETA / Unitas
ETA 6497 / 6498
The 36.6 mm pocket-watch caliber repurposed for vintage-style wristwatches. Powered the original Panerai Luminor / Radiomir as Cal. OP I/II.
2.5 Hz · 46 h PR · 17 jewels · 36.6 mm · Hand-wound · Pocket-watch base
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F.P. Journe
F.P. Journe Caliber 1499
The dual-balance acoustic resonance movement at the heart of F.P. Journe's Chronomètre à Résonance. Two independent going trains, two balances, coupled through plate vibration. Solid 18k pink-gold plates.
3 Hz · 40-80 h PR · 36 jewels · Two balances in resonance · 18k rose-gold plates · Independent watchmaking icon
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Frédéric Piguet (now Manufacture Blancpain)
Frédéric Piguet 1185
The thinnest mass-produced auto chronograph at launch (1987): 5.5 mm. Column-wheel + vertical clutch + integrated layer. In Blancpain Léman, Vacheron Overseas, AP Royal Oak Chrono.
3 Hz · 40 h PR · 37 jewels · 5.5 mm · Column-wheel + vertical clutch · Integrated chronograph
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Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original Cal. 100 Family
GO's in-house automatic family powering the Sixties, Seventies, PanoMatic, and Senator collections. German silver three-quarter plate, swan-neck regulator, 21k gold double-G rotor. Saxon watchmaking at the volume tier.
4 Hz · 40 h PR · 40-47 jewels · Three-quarter plate · Swan-neck regulator · 21k gold rotor
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Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original Caliber 36
GO's flagship modern automatic (2016). 100 h reserve, silicon hairspring, three-quarter plate in Neusilber, swan-neck regulator. The Saxon answer to the modern long-reserve auto.
4 Hz · 100 h PR · 32 jewels · Three-quarter plate · Silicon hairspring · Swan-neck regulator
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Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko 9S85
GS's hi-beat (5 Hz) automatic from the Shizukuishi Studio. Hand-finished bridges, Spron 610 hairspring, +5/-3 sec/day spec.
5 Hz · 55 h PR · 37 jewels · Free-sprung balance · Hand-polished bridges
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Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko Caliber 9F
The world's highest-precision production quartz: ±10 sec per year, 3-year battery, instantaneous date, dual-pulse motor. Hand-finished bridges, polished pivots. Since 1993.
32 kHz · ±10 sec/year · Dual-pulse motor · Thermo-compensated · Hand-assembled
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Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko Caliber 9SA5
GS's 60th-anniversary flagship: a ground-up Hi-Beat with a proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, free-sprung overcoil, and 80 h reserve at 5 Hz. In the SLGH005 "White Birch".
5 Hz · 80 h PR · 47 jewels · Dual Impulse Escapement · Free-sprung overcoil · Twin barrels
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Hamilton
Hamilton H-10
Modified ETA 2824-2 with 80-hour power reserve at 3 Hz. Powers Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical and the Tissot Powermatic 80, Mido Cal 80, Longines L888 family.
3 Hz · 80 h PR · 25 jewels · ETA 2824 base · Nivachron hairspring (current)
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Hermès
Hermès Caliber H1837
The in-house automatic that powers the Slim d'Hermès and Arceau 40. Built on the Vaucher 5401 base (Hermès owns 25% of Vaucher), finished with the Hermès "H" rotor.
4 Hz · 50 h PR · 28 jewels · 3.7 mm thin · Vaucher base · "H" pattern rotor
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Hublot
Hublot Meca-10 (HUB1201 / 1233)
Hublot's in-house 10-day hand-wound caliber (2016) with full dial-side exposed mechanism. Twin barrels, jumping power-reserve indicator at day 7, in the Big Bang Meca-10.
3 Hz · 240 h (10-day) PR · 24 jewels · Twin barrels · Dial-side exposed mechanism · Hand-wound
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Hublot
Hublot Unico (HUB1240 / 1280)
Hublot's in-house flyback chronograph (2010+). Column-wheel + double horizontal clutch mounted on the dial side, visible through the open-worked Big Bang Unico dial. 72 h reserve.
4 Hz · 72 h PR · ~330 components · Column-wheel + double horizontal clutch · Flyback · Dial-side mechanism
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IWC
IWC Caliber 51111 / 50000
The Pellaton-winding 7-day automatic that powers the iconic Big Pilot 5009 and Portugieser 7-Day. The signature Schaffhausen movement, named after Albert Pellaton's 1950 winding system.
2.75 Hz · 168 h PR (7 days) · 44 jewels · Pellaton bidirectional winding · Single barrel · Breguet overcoil
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IWC
IWC Caliber 52000
IWC's flagship 7-day Pellaton automatic since 2015 (52010, 52110, 52615). Twin barrels, ceramic Pellaton pawls. In Big Pilot, Portugieser 7-Day, Spitfire.
4 Hz · 168 h PR · 31 jewels · Twin barrels · Ceramic Pellaton winding · 37.8 mm
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IWC
IWC Caliber 79320
The modified Valjoux 7750 that powered IWC's mainstream chronos through the 2000s and 2010s: Pilot Chronograph 3717, Top Gun, Aquatimer Chrono. Tri-compax with day/date.
4 Hz · 44 h PR · 25 jewels · Cam-actuated · Lateral clutch · Tri-compax with day/date
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IWC
IWC Caliber 89000
IWC's in-house chronograph since 2007 with central-minute and seconds chronograph display. Column-wheel + flyback, 68 h reserve. In Da Vinci, Portugieser Chrono Classic.
4 Hz · 68 h PR · 38 jewels · Column-wheel · Flyback · Central minute + seconds display
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Jaeger-LeCoultre
JLC Caliber 849
One of the thinnest hand-wound calibres ever produced: 1.85 mm thick, 1968. JLC's answer to the Piaget 9P, in the modern Master Ultra-Thin.
2.75 Hz · 38 h PR · 19 jewels · 1.85 mm · Hand-wound · Ultra-thin dress
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Jaeger-LeCoultre
JLC Caliber 854
The rectangular manual movement that drives two dials and two time zones from a single engine. Powers the Reverso Duo and Duoface lines.
3 Hz · 45 h PR · 19 jewels · Rectangular form · Single train, two hour wheels · Independent dual-time
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Jaeger-LeCoultre
JLC Caliber 889
JLC's slim 3.25 mm central-rotor automatic. Powered the JLC Master Control, IWC Mark XII, and many AP / Cartier 1990s automatics as the Vallée de Joux's standard slim-auto ébauche.
4 Hz · 43 h PR · 36 jewels · 3.25 mm · 21-kt gold rotor mass on ceramic ball bearing
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Jaeger-LeCoultre
JLC Caliber 920
The 1967 ultra-thin (2.45 mm) automatic licensed to AP (2120), Patek (28-255), Vacheron (1120). Peripheral full rotor on 4 ceramic balls.
2.75 Hz · 40 h PR · 36 jewels · 2.45 mm · Peripheral full rotor on 4 ceramic balls
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Jaeger-LeCoultre
JLC Caliber 956
The modern mechanical alarm movement inside the Memovox Polaris: hammer-and-gong alarm, no batteries, descendant of the legendary 1956 Cal. 815. One of the only mechanical alarms in regular production.
4 Hz · 45 h PR · 23 jewels · Mechanical alarm · Two mainsprings · Hammer striking case-back gong
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Jaeger-LeCoultre
JLC Caliber 970
JLC's modern manual rectangular form-caliber for the Reverso Tribute Monoface and Tribute Small Seconds. Geneva stripes, polished bevels, blued screws.
3 Hz · 42 h PR · 19 jewels · Rectangular form-caliber · Hand-finished · Reverso-specific
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Kenissi
Kenissi MT5xxx Family
Tudor's manufacture-grade automatic, jointly owned with Chanel, supplied to Breitling (B20) and Norqain. 70 h reserve, silicon hairspring, free-sprung balance, COSC. The Tudor BB58 / Pelagos engine.
4 Hz · 70 h PR · 25-28 jewels · Silicon hairspring · Free-sprung balance · COSC
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A. Lange & Söhne
Lange Caliber L043
The mechanical movement behind the Zeitwerk: three large jumping discs displaying digital time, driven by a constant-force escapement that releases every 60 seconds. Most innovative regular-production Lange caliber.
3 Hz · 36-72 h PR · 66 jewels · Constant-force escapement · Three jumping discs · Mechanical "digital" display
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A. Lange & Söhne
Lange Caliber L121.1
The 2015 in-house movement of the modern Lange 1: instantaneous big date, twin-barrel 72 h reserve, in-house balance with overcoil, hand-engraved balance cock.
3 Hz · 72 h PR · 43 jewels · Twin barrels · Instantaneous big date · German silver three-quarter plate
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A. Lange & Söhne
Lange Caliber L901.0
The caliber that launched modern A. Lange & Söhne in 1994 inside the original Lange 1. Hand-wound, twin barrels, 72 h reserve, three-quarter plate in Neusilber.
3 Hz · 72 h PR · 53 jewels · Twin barrels · Untreated nickel silver three-quarter plate · Hand-engraved balance cock
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A. Lange & Söhne
Lange Caliber L951.1
The 1999 Datograph chronograph caliber: hand-wound, column-wheel, vertical clutch, flyback, jumping minute. Widely called the most-beautiful modern chronograph.
2.5 Hz · 36 h PR · 40 jewels · German silver three-quarter plate · Patek-tier finishing
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A. Lange & Söhne
Lange Caliber L951.6
The 2012 evolution of the legendary Datograph movement: column-wheel flyback chronograph with outsize date, twin-barrel 60 h reserve, hand-engraved balance cock.
2.5 Hz · 60 h PR · 46 jewels · Column-wheel · Lateral clutch · Outsize date · Twin barrels
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Lemania
Lemania 1873
The 1968 cam-actuated chronograph that replaced the column-wheel Lemania 2310. Used as Omega Cal. 861 (1968-96) and Cal. 1861 (1996-2021).
3 Hz · 45 h PR · 17 jewels · Cam-actuated (shuttle cam) · Hand-wind
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Lemania
Lemania 2310
The 1942 column-wheel chronograph designed by Albert Piguet that became Omega Cal. 321 (Speedmaster, all NASA Moonwatches) and Patek CH 27 (Calatrava chronos).
2.5 Hz · 44 h PR · 17 jewels · 12-ligne (27 mm) · Column-wheel + lateral clutch
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Longines
Longines Caliber L888
The 72-hour ETA 2892-base workhorse powering the Longines Master Collection, Spirit, and Heritage lines. Silicon hairspring (2020+), COSC variants, the volume engine of the largest mid-tier Swiss brand.
3.5 Hz · 72 h PR · 21 jewels · ETA A31 base · Silicon hairspring · COSC variants
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Miyota / Citizen
Miyota 8215
The cheapest mechanical caliber on the modern market: 3 Hz, 21 jewels, 42 h reserve, no hacking, no hand-wind. In Invicta, Citizen Tsuyosa, Bulova entry, microbrands.
3 Hz · 42 h PR · 21 jewels · No hacking · ~USD 30 in volume
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Miyota / Citizen
Miyota 9015
The Japanese workhorse that powers half the microbrand industry: Christopher Ward, Halios, Farer, Lorier, Oris (some refs), Magrette. Slim, reliable, very cheap.
4 Hz · 42 h PR · 24 jewels · 3.9 mm thick · Hand-wind, hacking
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NOMOS Glashütte
NOMOS Alpha
NOMOS's first fully in-house caliber (2005), the manual companion to the DUW 3001 automatic. Powers the manual Tangente, Orion, Ludwig, and Club. Made entirely in Glashütte; Swing System escapement since 2018.
3 Hz · 43 h PR · 23 jewels · 2.6 mm thin · Three-quarter plate · NOMOS Swing System (post-2018)
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NOMOS Glashütte
NOMOS DUW 3001
NOMOS's 3.2 mm ultra-thin in-house automatic with proprietary Swing System escapement. Powers the Tangente Neomatik, Metro, Orion, and Minimatik. Bauhaus dress watchmaking from Glashütte.
3 Hz · 43 h PR · 27 jewels · 3.2 mm thin · NOMOS Swing System escapement · German silver three-quarter plate
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Omega
Omega Caliber 1861 (and 861)
The Speedmaster Moonwatch caliber from 1968 to 2021. Cam-actuated successor to the column-wheel Cal. 321; Lemania 1873-derived. Worn on every Apollo mission from Apollo 14 onward.
3 Hz · 45 h PR · 18 jewels · Cam-actuated (shuttle cam) · Hand-wound · Replaced by Cal. 3861 in 2021
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Omega
Omega Caliber 2500
The first commercial co-axial wristwatch caliber, launched 1999. ETA 2892-A2 base + George Daniels co-axial escapement. Powered Omega's catalogue 1999-2014.
3.5-4 Hz · 48 h PR · 27 jewels · ETA 2892 base · Co-axial escapement (George Daniels)
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Omega
Omega Caliber 321
The hand-wound column-wheel chronograph designed by Albert Piguet at Lemania in 1942, NASA-qualified in 1965, worn on the Moon by Buzz Aldrin in 1969.
2.5 Hz · 44 h PR · 17 jewels · Column-wheel · Reborn 2019 (Atelier 321, Bienne)
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Omega
Omega Caliber 3303
The Co-Axial chronograph that powered the 2007-2011 Speedmaster Broad Arrow Co-Axial. F. Piguet 1185 base + George Daniels Co-Axial escapement, before the in-house 9300 took over.
4 Hz · 52 h PR · 37 jewels · Co-Axial escapement · Column-wheel · Modified F. Piguet 1185
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Omega
Omega Caliber 3861
The modern manual-wind co-axial that powers the current Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch since 2021. Direct successor to the Cal. 321 / 1861.
3 Hz · 50 h PR · Co-axial · Si14 silicon hairspring · METAS Master Chronometer · Hand-wind
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Omega
Omega Caliber 8500 / 8501
Omega's first wholly in-house co-axial caliber (2007). Twin barrels, 60 h reserve, three-level co-axial escapement, Si14 silicon hairspring (since 2008). Predecessor to the METAS-certified 8800/8900.
3.5 Hz · 60 h PR · 39 jewels · Twin barrels · Co-axial · Si14 silicon hairspring · Free-sprung balance
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Omega
Omega Caliber 861
The cam-actuated chronograph that powered every Speedmaster Professional from 1968 to 1996, replacing the column-wheel Cal. 321. Lemania 1873 base, 21,600 vph.
3 Hz · 45 h PR · 17 jewels · Lemania 1873 base · Shuttle cam · The longest-serving Moonwatch caliber
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Omega
Omega Caliber 8800 / 8900
The Master Chronometer co-axial that powers the modern Seamaster Diver 300M, Aqua Terra, Planet Ocean. METAS-certified, 15,000-gauss anti-magnetic.
3.5 Hz · 55-60 h PR · Co-axial escapement · Si14 silicon hairspring · METAS Master Chronometer
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Omega
Omega Caliber 9300 / 9900
The Master Co-Axial chronograph: column-wheel, vertical clutch, METAS, 15,000 gauss, Si14 silicon. Powers Speedmaster Racing and Planet Ocean Chrono.
4 Hz · 60 h PR · Co-axial · Column-wheel + vertical clutch · METAS Master Chronometer
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Oris
Oris Caliber 400
Oris's first modern in-house automatic (2020): twin-barrel 5-day reserve, silicon escape wheel, antimagnetic to 2,250 gauss, 10-year recommended service interval. Powers the Aquis Cal. 400 and Big Crown ProPilot Cal. 400.
4 Hz · 120 h PR (5 days) · 21 jewels · Silicon escape wheel · 2,250 gauss antimagnetic · 10-year service interval
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Panerai
Panerai P.9000
Panerai's main in-house automatic since 2009. Twin barrels, 72 h reserve, made in Neuchâtel. Powers most modern Luminor, Submersible, and Radiomir automatics.
4 Hz · 72 h PR · 28 jewels · Twin barrels · Bridge-type construction · Made in Neuchâtel
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Patek Philippe
Patek Caliber 215 PS
Patek's main hand-wound Calatrava caliber: ultra-thin 2.55 mm, Gyromax balance, Patek Seal. Powers the dress 5196, 5119 and small-seconds Calatrava references.
4 Hz · 44 h PR · 18 jewels · 2.55 mm · Gyromax balance · Patek Philippe Seal
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Patek Philippe
Patek Caliber 26-330 S C
Patek's current main automatic, launched 2021. Adds hacking seconds (a famous omission from the 324), 45 h reserve. In Nautilus 5711 olive, Aquanaut 5168G.
4 Hz · 45 h PR · 30 jewels · Hacking seconds · 21-kt gold rotor · Patek Philippe Seal
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Patek Philippe
Patek Caliber 27-70
The Lemania-based automatic chrono that powered the original Nautilus 3712 (2005). Last Lemania-based Patek chrono before the in-house CH 28-520 took over in 2006.
3 Hz · 50 h PR · 24 jewels · Column-wheel · Modified Lemania 2310 · Used in Nautilus 3712
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Patek Philippe
Patek Caliber 324 S C
Patek's main central-rotor automatic from 2004 to ~2021. Powered the Calatrava 5227, Nautilus 5711, Aquanaut 5167, World Time 5230. Gyromax + Spiromax silicon hairspring.
4 Hz · 35-45 h PR · 29 jewels · 21-kt gold central rotor · Patek Philippe Seal
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Patek Philippe
Patek Caliber CH 28-520
Patek's first in-house automatic chronograph (2006), powering the Nautilus 5980, Aquanaut 5968, and 5960 annual-calendar chrono. Column-wheel + vertical clutch, 60-min totaliser at 6.
4 Hz · 55 h PR · 34 jewels · Column-wheel · Vertical clutch · Mono-counter layout
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Patek Philippe
Patek CH 29-535 PS
The 2009 first wholly in-house Patek chronograph: column-wheel, lateral clutch, 65 h reserve, six patents. Replaced the Lemania 2310 / CH 27 derivative.
4 Hz · 65 h PR · 33 jewels · Column-wheel + lateral clutch · 6 patents · Patek Seal
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Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe 240
The 1977 ultra-thin (2.4 mm) microrotor automatic with 22-kt gold rotor flush in the plate. Powered the Calatrava 3940 Q, Nautilus 5712, Aquanaut 5167, World Time 5230.
3 Hz · 48 h PR · 27 jewels · 2.4 mm base · 25+ variants · Spiromax silicon hairspring
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Piaget
Piaget Caliber 430P
A 2.1 mm ultra-thin manual-wind movement that powers the Piaget Altiplano Ultra-Thin and serves as the architectural ancestor of the Cartier 430 MC. In production since 1998.
3 Hz · 43 h PR · 18 jewels · 2.1 mm thin · The Altiplano engine
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Richard Mille
Richard Mille RM 010 (RMAS7)
The first non-tourbillon Richard Mille and the brand's commercial breakthrough. Variable-geometry winding rotor, multiple material variants, several thousand produced over six years. The reference that scaled Richard Mille beyond boutique tourbillon-maker tier.
4 Hz · 50 h PR · 21 jewels · Skeletonised tonneau · Variable-geometry rotor · Date complication
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Richard Mille
Richard Mille RM 011 (RMAC1)
The iconic skeletonised flyback chronograph with annual calendar and 60-min countdown that powered the Felipe Massa series from 2007. Vaucher base with extensive RM modifications. The watch that took Richard Mille mainstream.
4 Hz · 55 h PR · 55 jewels · Skeletonised tonneau · Flyback chrono + annual calendar · Vaucher base
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Richard Mille
Richard Mille RM 27-04 Nadal
The 30-gram tournament tourbillon worn by Rafael Nadal. Suspended baseplate held by woven steel cables inspired by tennis-racket strings. TPT Quartz case, 50 pieces produced. Among the lightest mechanical tourbillons ever made.
4 Hz · 38 h PR · 24 jewels · 30g total weight · TPT Quartz case · Suspended baseplate (tennis-string inspired)
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Richard Mille
Richard Mille RM 50-03 McLaren F1
The first commercially-produced wristwatch case incorporating graphene (Graph TPT). Tourbillon split-seconds chronograph with torque indicator, 40g total weight. McLaren F1 partnership, 75 pieces produced.
3 Hz · 70 h PR · 37 jewels · Graph TPT (graphene) + TPT Carbon · Tourbillon + split-seconds · 40g
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Richard Mille
Richard Mille RM 67-02 (CRMA7)
The 32-gram ultra-thin automatic worn by Wawrinka, Pogba, Yohan Blake, Mutaz Essa Barshim. 3.6mm movement with platinum micro-rotor, TPT Quartz / NTPT Carbon cases in athlete-themed colour variants.
4 Hz · 50 h PR · 25 jewels · 3.6mm movement · 32g total · Platinum micro-rotor · TPT Quartz / NTPT Carbon case
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Rolex
Rolex Caliber 1520 / 1530
The non-chronometer-grade automatic that powered the iconic Submariner ref. 5513 "no date" from 1962 to 1989. The vintage Sub grail caliber: McQueen, Bond, MilSub.
2.75 Hz · 50 h PR · 17-26 jewels · Non-chronometer · The 5513 engine for 27 years
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Rolex
Rolex Caliber 1570 / 1575
The 19,800 vph automatic that powered nearly every iconic vintage Rolex sport: Sub 1680, GMT 1675, Explorer 1016, Sea-Dweller 1665. Hacking added in 1972.
2.75 Hz · 48 h PR · 26 jewels · GMT-hand variant 1575 · The vintage Rolex sports engine
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Rolex
Rolex Caliber 3035
The first Rolex caliber with Quickset date (1977): 28,800 vph, free-sprung Microstella balance. Powered the 16800 Sub, 16660 Sea-Dweller, 16750 GMT, and the 16000-series Datejust.
4 Hz · 48 h PR · 27 jewels · Quickset date · Free-sprung Microstella · The bridge between vintage and modern Rolex
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Rolex
Rolex Caliber 3135
The 3-hand workhorse that powered Submariner, Datejust, Sea-Dweller, and Yacht-Master from 1988 to ~2020. About 20 million units produced.
4 Hz · 48 h PR · 31 jewels · Parachrom Bleu (post-2005) · The benchmark for indestructible
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Rolex
Rolex Caliber 3155
The Day-Date variant of the legendary 3135: powers the Day-Date 36 (118238, 118239 etc.) from 1988 to 2015. Double Quickset for day and date, day in 26 languages.
4 Hz · 48 h PR · 31 jewels · Day + date double Quickset · 3135 base · Day disc in 26 languages
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Rolex
Rolex Caliber 3186
The 2007-2018 GMT-Master II caliber: 3135 + true GMT module, Parachrom Bleu hairspring, 48 h reserve. Powered the 116710 Batman, Pepsi.
4 Hz · 48 h PR · 31 jewels · True GMT (jumping local hour) · Parachrom Bleu
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Rolex
Rolex Caliber 3235
The current 3-hand engine in every modern Submariner Date, Datejust 41, Sea-Dweller, and the base for the GMT-Master II.
4 Hz · 70 h PR · Chronergy escapement · Parachrom Bleu hairspring · 31 jewels
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Rolex
Rolex Caliber 3255
The current Day-Date 40 movement (2015): Chronergy escapement, 70 h reserve, Superlative Chronometer ±2 sec/day. Day disc still available in 26 languages.
4 Hz · 70 h PR · 31 jewels · Chronergy escapement · Parachrom Bleu · ±2 sec/day Superlative
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Rolex
Rolex Caliber 3285
The current GMT-Master II caliber: 3235 architecture with a true GMT module, 70 h power reserve, jumping local hour.
4 Hz · 70 h PR · 31 jewels · True GMT (jumping local hour) · Chronergy escapement
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Rolex
Rolex Caliber 4030
The heavily modified Zenith El Primero that powered the legendary Daytona 16520 from 1988 to 2000. Column-wheel chrono, the bridge between the manual Valjoux 72 era and the in-house 4130.
4 Hz · 50 h PR · 31 jewels · Modified Zenith El Primero · Column-wheel · Microstella regulation
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Rolex
Rolex Caliber 4130
The first wholly in-house Rolex chronograph, replacing the Zenith El Primero in the Daytona in 2000. Vertical-clutch, column-wheel, 72-hour reserve, 4 Hz.
4 Hz · 72 h PR · 44 jewels · Column-wheel + vertical clutch · Powered the 116520 / 116500LN
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Rolex
Rolex Caliber 4131
The new chronograph engine inside the 2023 Daytona (126500LN), replacing the long-serving 4130 with the Chronergy escapement.
4 Hz · 72 h PR · Column-wheel · Vertical clutch · Chronergy escapement
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Rolex
Rolex Caliber 9001
The Sky-Dweller annual calendar caliber: Saros annual calendar, true GMT, Ring Command bezel setting, 72 h reserve. Since 2012.
4 Hz · 72 h PR · Annual calendar + GMT · Ring Command bezel · -2/+2 sec/day
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Seiko
Seiko 6139
One of the world's first self-winding chronographs (May 1969). Vertical clutch, column-wheel, single register. Worn on Skylab 4 by Col. Pogue in 1973.
3 Hz · 36 h PR · 17 jewels · Vertical clutch · Column-wheel · Single register at 6
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Seiko
Seiko 6R35
The mid-tier Seiko automatic with 70-hour power reserve. Powers the Prospex SPB dive watches and most Seiko 5 KX models since 2019.
3 Hz · 70 h PR · 24 jewels · Spron 530 hairspring · Hand-wind, hacking
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Seiko
Seiko Caliber 4R36
The 2019 successor to the legendary 7S26: powers the entire Seiko 5 Sports SRPDxx line. Adds hacking and manual wind to the 7S26 architecture. Mechanically identical to the TMI NH35.
3 Hz · 41 h PR · 24 jewels · Day + date · Hacking + manual wind · Magic Lever auto-winding
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Seiko
Seiko Caliber 6105
The 1968-1977 automatic dive movement inside the iconic 6105-8110 "Captain Willard" (Apocalypse Now). Grandfather of the modern Seiko diver line.
3 Hz · 45 h PR · 17 jewels · No hacking · No manual wind · Captain Willard
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Seiko
Seiko Caliber 7S26
The most-produced mechanical caliber of the modern era: powered the SKX007, SKX009, and every Seiko 5 from 1996 to 2019. No hacking, no manual wind, total reliability.
3 Hz · 41 h PR · 21 jewels · Day + date · Magic Lever auto-winding · The bargain workhorse
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Seiko
Seiko Caliber 8L35
Grand Seiko-grade architecture in a Seiko-branded watch: powers the Marinemaster MM300 SBDX001/017 and high-end Prospex SLA reissues. Built in the Shizukuishi GS facility.
4 Hz · 50 h PR · 26 jewels · GS 9S55-base architecture · Hacking + manual wind
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Seiko Instruments (TMI)
Seiko NH35 / NH36
The most-used Japanese automatic in microbrand watchmaking. Identical to the Seiko 4R35/4R36, sold by TMI to any brand. Hand-wind, hacking, ~USD 30 in volume.
3 Hz · 41 h PR · 24 jewels · Hand-wind, hacking · The microbrand standard
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Sellita
Sellita SW200-1
Sellita's near-identical alternative to the ETA 2824-2: same architecture, +1 jewel. Powers Oris, Longines, Bell & Ross, Bremont, Christopher Ward.
4 Hz · 38 h PR · 26 jewels · ETA 2824-2 compatible
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Sellita
Sellita SW500
The modern alternative to the Valjoux 7750: same architecture, longer 58 h reserve, available to brands outside Swatch Group. Cam-actuated 6-9-12.
4 Hz · 58 h PR · 25 jewels · Cam-actuated · 6-9-12 day-date
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Soprod
Soprod A10 (Newton P092)
A Swiss-made drop-in alternative to the ETA 2892-A2, also marketed as the Newton P092. Used by Christopher Ward, Bremont, and many independent microbrands seeking non-ETA Swiss movements.
4 Hz · 42 h PR · 25 jewels · ETA 2892 dimensional compatibility · Made in Les Reussilles
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Grand Seiko / Seiko
Spring Drive (9R65 / 9R86)
Hybrid mechanical-electronic regulation: mainspring + glide wheel braked by quartz. Smooth-sweep seconds, ±15 sec/month accuracy, no battery. Powers the Snowflake.
Mechanical + quartz regulation · ±15 sec/month · 72 h PR · No battery · Smooth-sweep seconds
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TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Caliber 1887
TAG's first modern in-house automatic chronograph (2010), based on a Seiko TC-78 architecture re-engineered in Chevenez. Column-wheel + oscillating pinion, 50 h reserve.
4 Hz · 50 h PR · 39 jewels · Column-wheel · Lateral clutch · Carrera Calibre 1887
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TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Caliber 360
The first mechanical wristwatch chronograph capable of timing 1/100 second. 50 Hz chronograph train + 4 Hz time train running independently in the same watch. In the Carrera Mikrograph (2011-2014).
4 Hz time + 50 Hz chrono · 1/100 second resolution · Two independent escapements · Carrera Mikrograph
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TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Calibre Heuer 02
TAG Heuer's main in-house chronograph since 2017. Column-wheel + vertical clutch, 80 h reserve, COSC option. Powers the Carrera Heuer 02, Autavia, Monaco.
4 Hz · 80 h PR · 33 jewels · Column-wheel + vertical clutch · 168 components · COSC option
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Tissot / ETA
Tissot Powermatic 80 (ETA C07.111)
The 80-hour long-reserve evolution of the ETA 2824-2: Powermatic 80 in Tissot, H-10 in Hamilton, Cal. 80 in Mido. Modern Nivachron hairspring, 21,600 vph trade-off for the long reserve.
3 Hz · 80 h PR · 23 jewels · Nivachron hairspring · ETA 2824 base · Powers the Tissot PRX
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Tudor
Tudor Caliber MT5621
The MT5612 base + power-reserve indicator at 9, in the Pelagos LHD ref. 25610TNL and the discontinued North Flag. Silicon hairspring, COSC, 70 h reserve. Most spec-complete Tudor caliber.
4 Hz · 70 h PR · 26 jewels · Silicon hairspring · Free-sprung balance · COSC · Power reserve at 9
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Tudor
Tudor Caliber MT5652
The in-house GMT inside the Tudor Black Bay GMT "Pepsi" (ref. 79830RB). True GMT (jumping local hour), 70 h reserve, silicon hairspring, COSC. Part of the Kenissi MT5xxx family.
4 Hz · 70 h PR · 28 jewels · True GMT · Silicon hairspring · COSC chronometer
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Tudor / Kenissi
Tudor MT5402
Tudor's compact in-house automatic: 26 mm sized for 36-41 mm cases. Free-sprung balance, silicon hairspring, COSC, 70 h reserve. In Black Bay 36/39/41 and Pelagos 39.
4 Hz · 70 h PR · 27 jewels · 26 mm · Free-sprung balance · Silicon hairspring · COSC
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Tudor
Tudor MT5612
Tudor's first in-house automatic, launched in 2015 inside the Pelagos and Black Bay 41. Free-sprung balance, silicon hairspring, COSC certified.
4 Hz · 70 h PR · Free-sprung balance · Silicon hairspring · COSC
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Tudor / Kenissi
Tudor MT5813
Breitling B01-based in-house Tudor chronograph: column-wheel, vertical clutch, silicon hairspring, free-sprung balance, COSC, 70 h reserve. In the Black Bay Chrono.
4 Hz · 70 h PR · 47 jewels · Column-wheel + vertical clutch · Silicon hairspring · COSC
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Ulysse Nardin
Ulysse Nardin UN-118
The 2010 COSC automatic with a fully silicon regulating organ: DiamonSil escape wheel, pallet fork, and balance spring. Anti-magnetic by construction. In the Marine Chronometer.
4 Hz · 60 h PR · 50 jewels · Silicon escapement · DiamonSil hairspring · COSC chronometer
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Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Caliber 1120
Vacheron's version of the JLC Cal. 920: a 2.45 mm ultra-thin auto with central peripheral rotor. In the 1977 Vacheron 222 and the original 1996 Overseas. Sibling of AP 2121.
2.75 Hz · 40 h PR · 36 jewels · 2.45 mm thin · Central rotor · Based on JLC 920
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Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Caliber 1142
Vacheron's haute-horlogerie chronograph based on the legendary Lemania 2310 (Albert Piguet, 1942). The Vacheron sister to Omega Cal. 321 and Patek CH 27. Geneva Seal finishing.
2.5 Hz · 48 h PR · 21 jewels · Column-wheel + lateral clutch · Lemania 2310 base · Geneva Seal
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Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Caliber 4400
Vacheron's main hand-wound caliber since 2008. Geneva Seal certified, single barrel + Maltese-cross stop work, 65-hour reserve. Powers Patrimony, Traditionnelle, Historiques.
4 Hz · 65 h PR · 21 jewels · 2.8 mm · Geneva Seal · Maltese-cross stop work
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Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Caliber 5100 / 5200
The 2016 in-house automatic powering the modern Overseas (Generation 3) and Fiftysix. 60 h reserve, Hallmark of Geneva, Maltese-cross 22k gold rotor. Replaced the JLC-base Cal. 1120.
4 Hz · 60 h PR · 32 jewels · Hallmark of Geneva · Maltese-cross peripheral rotor · Free-sprung balance
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Valjoux
Valjoux 72
The most-celebrated manual-wind chronograph of the 20th century. Powered the original Rolex Daytona refs. 6239-6265 and the 1963 Heuer Carrera.
2.5 Hz · 45 h PR · 17 jewels · Column-wheel · 3-6-9 sub-dials · Lateral clutch
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Valjoux / ETA
Valjoux 7750
The most-produced mechanical chronograph of all time. Cam-actuated, oscillating-pinion, 6-9-12 day-date layout. Powers Breitling, IWC, TAG Heuer, Sinn since 1974.
4 Hz · 44 h PR · 25 jewels · Cam-actuated · Day-date
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Zenith
Zenith El Primero
The world's first self-winding integrated chronograph (1969). 5 Hz hi-beat, column-wheel. Powered the Rolex Daytona 1988-2000.
5 Hz (36,000 vph) · 50 h PR · Column-wheel · Integrated chrono · 1/10-sec timing
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Zenith
Zenith El Primero 3600
The 2021 ground-up redesign of the El Primero: 5 Hz heart finally exploited as a 1/10 second display on the central chrono hand, 60 h reserve. In the Chronomaster Sport.
5 Hz · 60 h PR · 35 jewels · 1/10 second central chrono hand · Column-wheel · Integrated chronograph
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